I’ve been looking for a Tikka Varmint in .223 also. Nothing out there, just have to be patient.
I seen one on gun broker last night. I have been looking for a 223 Tikka also. I want to make a practice gun for my tac a1
Tikka is a great way to start.
As an "out of the box" rifle, hard pressed to find one as good for the price.
As an "out of the box" rifle, hard pressed to find one as good for the price.
Man, I know to each their own but that scope seems way forward in the rings. My scope sit a few more inches to the rear. Again, I know we’re all different.
Here is new baby, picked it up on Monday. In 6.5 Creedmoor, Fortmeir bipod, Athlon Ares 4.5x30x56, butler creek caps and an American Defence mount. Bought for med to long range. I’ve no idea when we’ll get back shooting over here in Blighty as it’s still a national lockdown, so I’ve checked it for fit, lop, trigger weight (dry firing it’s nice and light out of the box). Put its sock on and it’s back one the safe.
Yeah, I have a long neck and I'm 6'. I can't get proper eye relief with the scope mounted normally. All my 3gn rifles are the same way. I actually had to extend the buttstock adjustment all the way out to.
does anyone know the weight of a tikka T3X lite in a KRG bravo chassis?
my grandson just got a T3X lite in 65 creed and is more into hunting than match shooting so id like to keep this as lite as i can but the factory stock sucks so it has to go.
my grandson just got a T3X lite in 65 creed and is more into hunting than match shooting so id like to keep this as lite as i can but the factory stock sucks so it has to go.
6.3 lbs for the factory rifle, remove around 1.2 for the stock and add 2.9 for the chassis and you should get something in the ballpark of 8 lbs
These are numbers from memory, feel free to check the exact specs but it should be pretty close, give or take a few ounces.
Speaking of weights, mine weighed 11lbs with scope mounted and no mag. Roughly 35 oz for the scope and rings, so about 8.8 lbs for the BA and chassis.
I have one on my tac A3. I agree it takes a great trigger and makes it even better. I try to think of a downside. The only thing I can come up with is that a light trigger covers up errors in trigger management. There is less of an opportunity for asymmetric pressure or crushing the trigger. I haven’t found that a problem though. although I installed the spring after I became more of an advanced shooter.
It should. I ordered and installed one to stiffen up my old ctr stock and give a better mounting surface for a picatinny rail.
I had a 6.5 ctr in a krg bravo, and then got a tac a1 so I chopped the ctr to 18” and put it back in the ctr stock with a 3.6-18 mk5 and painted it. New hunting rifle for this year.
heres the ctr and the tac
heres the ctr and the tac
I know I am out of my depth here- I am just an amateur and you fine folks are experts with considerable skills, history, resources, etc. - so please do not bash me too much - but -having said all that- just wanted to see what you guys think about the half-aced camo job I just gave my Tikka T3X UPR...
I mentioned a few weeks ago that I randomly impulse-bought this one night when I was PO'd about stuff.... really couldn't afford much of a scope to go with it so I had to compromise on a budget piece. So overall:
Tikka T3X UPR .308 Win 24" regular (non-stainless) barrel
Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50mm FFP scope
Magpul FDE Bipod
Blue Force Gear Vickers Padded Sling - Multicam- with Magpul QD Swivels (not shown)
LimbSaver Precision-fit AirTech recoil pad (just installed, never shot yet) and I have an AR-STONER 308 muzzle brake on the way... ($20 vs $$$$ for the Tikka/Sako models...)
and the most important thing in my life, my 11.5yr old Son, the Australian Cattle Dog guarding it while it dries.
Again - I realize I suck at art - just figured I'd give it a try, I can always try again. Thanks!
I mentioned a few weeks ago that I randomly impulse-bought this one night when I was PO'd about stuff.... really couldn't afford much of a scope to go with it so I had to compromise on a budget piece. So overall:
Tikka T3X UPR .308 Win 24" regular (non-stainless) barrel
Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50mm FFP scope
Magpul FDE Bipod
Blue Force Gear Vickers Padded Sling - Multicam- with Magpul QD Swivels (not shown)
LimbSaver Precision-fit AirTech recoil pad (just installed, never shot yet) and I have an AR-STONER 308 muzzle brake on the way... ($20 vs $$$$ for the Tikka/Sako models...)
and the most important thing in my life, my 11.5yr old Son, the Australian Cattle Dog guarding it while it dries.
Again - I realize I suck at art - just figured I'd give it a try, I can always try again. Thanks!
Attachments
The joy of a camo paint job is that you can't screw it up.
If you don't like it, wipe it off with some lacquer thinner and re-spray it.
Seasons changed and now you need a different color scheme ? - Re spray it.
Scratched the hell out of it going thru brush and it bothers you ? Re-spray it
Roger that, that was kind of my thought as well. I had mentioned previously that I think it came with a chip/gouge/whatever-you-want-to-call-it in the barrel finish, underneath-area. Really ticked me off. So, it gave me the motivation to paint it.
I am probably going to touch it up a little after the first 'coat' dries but I think you hit the nail on the head. Thanks very much!
I am probably going to touch it up a little after the first 'coat' dries but I think you hit the nail on the head. Thanks very much!
Looks awesome! You will like that ar stoner muzzle break I run several they are inexpensive here in the states but dam they work!
Sterk shroud users!
I got a Sterk shroud on the used market and can’t get the sucker on either of my tikkas. Is there some trick to it? Iv disassembled and assembled my bolt in stock form many times but can’t rotate the Sterk shroud onto the firing pin flange. Tried on two different bolts, no joy.
I got a Sterk shroud on the used market and can’t get the sucker on either of my tikkas. Is there some trick to it? Iv disassembled and assembled my bolt in stock form many times but can’t rotate the Sterk shroud onto the firing pin flange. Tried on two different bolts, no joy.
Thank you very very much! That is actually one of the main reasons I had to buy it - Tikka/Sako muzzle brakes were $100-$150, some of the name-brand brakes go as high as $300, and this was TWENTY BUCKS and 5 star reviews on just about everywhere I found them for sale. That is just hard to say no to. Plus I checked the specs- they were pretty much very similar in size, shape, and WEIGHT (which I judged to be an important characteristic in comparison - how much metal is actually included ) to all the fancy expensive ones. So, I just don't see how bad it could possibly be for $20 bucks. Again thanks, I am very interested to see how the LimbSaver - and then the combination of the LimbSaver and brake- reduce the recoil. I have LimbSavers on all my shotguns - I have a tactical shotgun collection, probably 5? now, a few more I've sold- and LimbSavers really change everything - at least on shotguns. I had an 870 that came with the Remington "SuperCell" pad, seemed worthless to me, nothing special at all. I had a Manners T5A DBM for 700 308 that came with a Pachmayr Decelerator, similarly wasn't impressed. The Tikka T3X pad that came with my rifle seemed better than both of them, to be honest, but for $30-something dollars for a LimbSaver AirTech, I just had to try it. If they worth as good on a 308 as they do on 12ga's I'm going to be very , very happy.
Really, quite a bit! Let me be honest - I'm not exactly some sort of experienced sniper. I have a decent firearms background but I got my first .308 only about 7 years ago. That was a Remington 700 AAC-SD 308 ... I was very excited about it, 20" Heavy Barrel, etc. and put it in a Manners T5A DBM w/ Mini-Chassis etc. The MCS stock was *awesome*, the Remington rifle was *not*. Problem after problem. Wound up selling it, and over the last few years I put money into other areas of firearm collection. This was my first rifle purchase since an AK 3 years ago.
One of the things that sold me on the stock was watching the Tikka videos about it, they even have a video in their Sako stock factory describing how they're focusing on carbon fiber in their fiberglass stocks now. I really liked the idea of buying a relatively hi-quality, relatively-fair-priced, "out-of-the-box" precision, dare I use the term 'sniper rifle' - that would be pretty good to go right out of the box - unlike 8 years ago, I don't have the money to buy an $700+ rifle, $1500 stock, etc. etc. etc. I sort of took a leap, because there are very few reviews of the UPR online. A thread or two on here, mostly people saying that they're not impressed by the way they look, etc. Same elsewhere. The few reviews I saw of people who actually had one - were glowingly positive.
So I was guardedly optimistic when I got it, but yeah, pretty happy - really. It feels great in the hands and shoulder, it seems like it's extremely well constructed - it's not a "plastic fantastic" - it was a special project from the Sako stock factory , it's 100% fiberglass and carbon fiber, and Tikka says it has "extra layers" of carbon fiber in the bedding area etc. That is not an area I am an expert on but it certainly looks to be well-made and the rifle is totally free-floated , the barrel-channel looks perfect, and the few boxes I have put through it seem to be pretty awesome. I found an internet post on a UK/European shooting website (I forget the name, it looks like a UK/Euro version of SnipersHide...) - and the person was bashing Tikka for copying a stock made by an Irish stock company, which I take to be similar to Manners Composite Stocks - a top-of-the-line fiberglass/carbon fiber stock company in Ireland, pretty much like the European version of MCS. Well, having had a few nips of the water of life one night, I emailed them with a few questions- and the owner got back to me overnight, with outstanding information. Yup, it seems, the UPR stock is pretty much a blatant copy of one of their premium stocks- although it's made in what he described in a unique, novel, technologically-advanced way. I guess Sako (and therefore Tikka) have their own stock factory, and the people designing the UPR went to the stock factory and said, "Can you make us a copy of one of these 1000 Euro (aka, $1200+ USD) premium stocks?" - and apparently they did- they even made a few different upgrades ... they make the stock in a different fashion than the Irish company, but it's apparently pretty good, and impressed the Irish company. They don't have a big problem with this because Tikka's are (from what I understand) a huge part of their business- Euro buyers apparently buy a lot of Tikka T3 rifles and then buy their hi-quality stocks, much like us in the States will buy 700s (and other rifles of course) and buy expensive, high-quality Manners stocks.
So sorry for rambling. In conclusion, I've always loved Manners. They make an outstanding product and they're even better people. I'd love to have another Manners stock. But I am quite happy with this new rifle, in particular the stock, and feel like it's a steal in overall value. My first priority would be a scope- having bought a budget optic - and probably next would be a fancy barrel. Then, I'd absolutely consider an upgraded stock - be it Manners or the Irish company... but for now, I feel like I'm extremely happy with it. Really, very happy. Sorry if I rambled too much.
@Ser Arthur Dayne. This is the Tikka Thread, not the Bear Pit 
, you should be relatively safe here.
Never know what you can do, unless you give it a go.
Main thing is to enjoy.
, you should be relatively safe here.Never know what you can do, unless you give it a go.
Main thing is to enjoy.
That's a great write-up. Thanks!
It looks terribly ugly IMO, but also looks like it would work great!
Where she belongs. Dropped her in, then cleared the snow over the top. Been there for 3 days at 20 below so far.
Will pull her out tomorrow and test a few things like reliability of ignition and feeding
Realized i’ve Never really properly tested a tikka for reliability of ignition and fending snow elements properly.
Will pull her out tomorrow and test a few things like reliability of ignition and feeding
Realized i’ve Never really properly tested a tikka for reliability of ignition and fending snow elements properly.
I just bought a T3x CTR yesterday.
The package didn't contain any interchangeable pistol grips. Is this normal for the CTR?
Not that I need it, the barreled action already sits in another chassis. I just want to know if I got ripped off or not.
The package didn't contain any interchangeable pistol grips. Is this normal for the CTR?
Not that I need it, the barreled action already sits in another chassis. I just want to know if I got ripped off or not.
The CTR I bought last year did not come with an extra grip. I don’t think you got ripped off. Mine will be resting in an X-Ray later this week.
The additional "more vertical grip insert" is an extra cost accessory, as is the "Varmint" style beavertail forend accessory.
You didn't get ripped off.
And I lost the damn little washer on the krg bravo rear screw.. and for the life of me can’t find a washer in the bin that’ll work. Without it, it deadheads into the back of the bolt.
I think turning in the adjustment screw on the trigger fixed the firing pin dropping on close. Good to find this out now And not next fall. But the trigger is significantly heavier now.
I think turning in the adjustment screw on the trigger fixed the firing pin dropping on close. Good to find this out now And not next fall. But the trigger is significantly heavier now.
She feeds and extracts smoothly. Just for giggles I stood on the bolt and the bolt stop pin wouldn’t snap at 5degrees.. although it was No pics because I couldn’t time it. Lol
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Just curious..........
Why test it this way?
I think if you find yourself and your rifle stuck in the snow in 5 degrees for 3 days.... you might be dead bro.
Haha. Yeah not sure i’ve Spent too many days in the snow bank. But plenty of hunts where condensation and below O temps are the norm
What sparked it was matzingers Montana mule deer hunt on YouTube that came out last week. Fast forward to the 17 minute mark.. pretty common problem with weatherby’s but not exclusive to them when humidity gets high and it’s cold cold. Classic hoarfrost days.
Just curious to see if tikkas fair any better. Hopefully we’ll get another arctic blast in the not soon future and test it again with the trigger a bit heavier
What sparked it was matzingers Montana mule deer hunt on YouTube that came out last week. Fast forward to the 17 minute mark.. pretty common problem with weatherby’s but not exclusive to them when humidity gets high and it’s cold cold. Classic hoarfrost days.
Just curious to see if tikkas fair any better. Hopefully we’ll get another arctic blast in the not soon future and test it again with the trigger a bit heavier
All Tikkas come with only one grip. Most include the more traditional angle but the CTR comes with the vertical one.
I have a T3x action that started life as a Tac A1.
That means it has Tikka's two stage trigger. Good trigger but....I like the Calven Elite single stage on my 700 clones.
I can't find a single stage trigger for this Tikka action. How does Tikka's single stage compare to a Timney?
Any help?
That means it has Tikka's two stage trigger. Good trigger but....I like the Calven Elite single stage on my 700 clones.
I can't find a single stage trigger for this Tikka action. How does Tikka's single stage compare to a Timney?
Any help?
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I have two Tikka's - a T3 Hunter in .308 Win, and a T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. Both have the Tikka factory single stage. I also have a Remington 700 in .308 with the Timney 517 Flat trigger, also single stage. Both Tikka single stage triggers compare very favorably with the Timney. Don't get me wrong, I love the Timney on my Rem 700. But the Tikka feels better to me. And on the CTR, I went with the YoDave spring. Made the trigger even better.
Hope this helps.
Not sure on the timney as I have never used one. I have used a few TT diamonds and specials, unless you are wanting to get into the 1/2 lbs range I have not found myself wanting.
I have a tikka that started as at lite and ended up in a Tac A1 chassis. All of my current tikkas have the single stage which I love but want to try out a two stage. Was going to buy a aftermarket trigger but would be happy to trade a guy looking for a single stage.
Nice thanks! Now I just hope I can find one in 300 win mag 1-10 twist
I have Tikka single and 2 stage triggers, and i also have KRG and Timney 2 stage triggers.
Best of those is KRG, hands down.
Tikka single stage trigger is better than Timney, i dont like Timney trigger shoe play, it does move a bit side to side, it does not give as good feel
as Tikka single stage trigger, but is is nice 2 stage trigger, like Tikka 2 stage, but Timney you can fine tune both, first and second stage, and sear.
Tikka factory single stage trigger is one of the best triggers, i have played with yodaves spring with it, but once you shoot hundreds of shots with it, there has been at least twice on my Tikka rifles, that it wont cock the bolt sping, it just keep jumping over, because the spring has came loose, not the adjustment screw, but the spring has kind of died.
That´s why i have came back to the factory spring on all of my Tikka triggers, you can still bring it under 900g, and that it a fine trigger, if you aint a benchrest shooter
Noticed a couple of things...
The factory tikka stock seals the trigger area a lot better then the krg bravo. Something to consider if ur gonna subject them to abuse
About this is the lightest I can go on all 3 factory triggers I have on hand and maintain 100% reliability.
I didn’t take pics but ran the actions over steaming kettle and tossed em in the snow bank for a couple hours.
The factory tikka stock seals the trigger area a lot better then the krg bravo. Something to consider if ur gonna subject them to abuse
About this is the lightest I can go on all 3 factory triggers I have on hand and maintain 100% reliability.
I didn’t take pics but ran the actions over steaming kettle and tossed em in the snow bank for a couple hours.
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