I'm running Waters Rifleman 6rd BR mag and 3rd OEM tikka medium mags from my .308 - all of them function perfectly. The 5rd Tikka mags run into problems with the bolt sliding over the top of the 3rd round - I've also heard that tikka 22-250 mags work well but haven't had the need to try them. WR mags here: http://www.watersrifleman.com/magazines/
I have his bottom metal and some magazines for my 6.5 T3X. Really nice workmanship.
Complete makeover for the CTR. Upgrading glass is next on the list, K318i would be nice but probably end up with a XTR3 3.3-18. I hope she shoots as good as she looks
Have you by chance weighed it? Considering a similar setup but with a bravo and 20" carbon6.
I've been through the joy of shoulder reconstruction on each of mine.
Hope you have a 100% recovery
I haven't. I can say that I was pleasantly surprised by the weight though (before mounting the scope on top). I was expecting it to be heavier.
Have you shot it yet? any issue with the mag coming loose under recoil? just installed my T3x CTR 6.5 creedmoor into a krg bravo for CTR mags. Shot it the first time and mag dropped twice under recoil. I adjusted the forend as rearward as i can get it and the mag well is more snug fitting. I will see if this remedies it. If not if been told i will need to remove the action and adjust the trigger guard. just wondered if you have this issue with the CTR mags
Won't get to shoot it until next weekend, but the mag slides in nice and snug and doesn't drop free until the mag release is pushed all the way forward. I don't think I should have any issues with it, but I will update after I shoot it.
Hello fellow Tikka-files, I have a T3 Sporter in 6.5x55 Swede from circa 2012 with the "lovely" orange and blue stock. I'm interested in changing the stock to something lighter, more attractive and easier to load magazines. The problem is that there seem to be relatively few options available for the long action. I have only found MDT so far. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
Picked up a Veil Alpine Lite in 300 WM. The action is not smooth at all like my other Tikka's. My Mossberg MVP is way smoother... I am not sure what is causing the bolt to not want to cycle smoothly, but I am betting the Cerakote in the action isn't helping. I've cycled the bolt and cleaned it several times and oiled it well. It sticks like crazy. Not happy. I should have checked it out, but picked it up on my way to the Dr. this morning and didn't have time. Hopefully I can figure it out.
Attachments
I would check to see if there are any imperfections in the cerakote or in the action itself. I had one of my stainless actions cerakoted and there was no difference at all in how smooth it ran.
You can see the cerakote inside of the receiver (in the pic on the left). The bolt seems to "catch" there, and then runs rough the rest of the way in.
Redsnake tactical, atlasworx, and mountain tactical all make long action bottom metal. Each need different levels of fit to work with the tikka and inletting into a stock.
Along with MDT, cadex has some chassis that will work with Tikka factory magazines.
take it back and ask the place that did the job the question. have had mine done twice now, 2nd time cause of a minor accident and had threads cut for a muzzle brake to protect the crown. no risks taken with me being silly again. my bolt runs great, both times of coating.
my bad. never knew tikka ceracoated rifles, not that i looked. take it back to the shop and ask them to compare. get them to send it to beretta for inspection. might of gotten a friday gun, but that usually doesnt happen with tikka from all accounts.
Thats why I posted. Check your rifle when you buy it. Seems like Tikka may be slacking in the QC department. This is a new model.
- The Vision Chassis if you want a chassis (probably not any lighter than what you already have)
- KKC
- GRS
- German Gun Stocks
- Wildcat Composites
Give the bolt a squirt of oil and cycle it, it'll smooth out.
@minn_wild1, if your bolt jams halfway in, try loosing the action screws half a turn or so. If that solves the problem they're probably sticking up into the action. Either don't screw them in that hard or simply file them down a little bit so they don't cause any jamming.
I had this issue in my first T3, but your issue might very well be the cerakoting as you suggest (I have no experience with cerakoted Tikkas).
I had this issue in my first T3, but your issue might very well be the cerakoting as you suggest (I have no experience with cerakoted Tikkas).
@HookAndLine, would you mind detailing what exactly comes with the Vision Chassis as standard vs what are options? Also, did you order through GCP Rifle? How was the experience?
The action is free of any obstructions such action or pic rail screws. They are all set in plenty far. The bolt cycles fine as long as you run it perfectly straight into the action. Any up, down or side pressure and it binds and runs raggedly. It studders. I tried lubing and cycling a few hundred times. Cleaning and relubing every every 25 or so cycles. The cerakote is starting to wear away in some spots inside of the receiver. #%@&...!!!
found this using wikiarms :
Tikka T3x Varmint - For Sale - New :: Guns.com
The Tikka T3x Varmint is a bolt action rifle. It features a stock with extra wide forend for bench shooting interchangeable pistol grip swivel stud for mounting a bipod or sling soft recoil pad and ergonomically designed cheekpiece. This rifle additionally sports a cold hammer forged...
www.guns.com
also, these folks have a few firearms in stock..
Guns for Sale - Online Gun Shop | Hinterland Outfitters
Shop Hinterland Outfitters wide selection of handguns, shotguns, rifles, and accessories at discounted prices. Save on the top brands today!
www.hinterlandoutfitters.com
good luck!
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wow 1000$, makes me consider getting the 20" sporter on gunbroker just to have that cool stock as an option for target shooting. I am planning on putting it in a KRG either Bravo or Xray. Anything I should know about the Magazines in 223 and those chassis?found this using wikiarms :
Tikka T3x Varmint - For Sale - New :: Guns.com
The Tikka T3x Varmint is a bolt action rifle. It features a stock with extra wide forend for bench shooting interchangeable pistol grip swivel stud for mounting a bipod or sling soft recoil pad and ergonomically designed cheekpiece. This rifle additionally sports a cold hammer forged...
also, these folks have a few firearms in stock..
Guns for Sale - Online Gun Shop | Hinterland Outfitters
Shop Hinterland Outfitters wide selection of handguns, shotguns, rifles, and accessories at discounted prices. Save on the top brands today!
good luck!
The varmint mag will not work with the krg chassis, either you would find ctr 223 mags or AICS but I think only the bravo comes with option for running the ctr mag and they are not interchangable
I have a tikka 223 varmint in a bravo and they offer aics with it.
Mdt 223 aics mags works great
Correct I was just stating the factory single stack tikka mags will not work with the krg chassis. My wording was kinda confusing. I meant I think the bravo only one they offer with both mag options(ctr and aics) I don’t remember seeing the ctr option for their other chassis.
Been shooting a lot more close range stuff with the gassers to save time off the back porch.. Took the mile walk out to the longer distance spot.
hard blowing snow squalls made ranging and seeing target a bit hard. this is the definition of a tricky wind spot. makes ya focus. 20 seconds from ranging rifle in hand to breaking the shot. no rear bag. 3 times.
not super stoked being .2 low but that's how it goes.
530 yards
hard blowing snow squalls made ranging and seeing target a bit hard. this is the definition of a tricky wind spot. makes ya focus. 20 seconds from ranging rifle in hand to breaking the shot. no rear bag. 3 times.
not super stoked being .2 low but that's how it goes.
530 yards
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Did an OCW test today with the varmint and 77gr smk and varget showing promise. Also this bad boy showed up last night. Waiting for some action screws but debating wether or not to get it bed right off the bat. The tikka action mating surfaces have a slight radius and the chassis is flat. Dunno what to do.
That enclosed forend makes all their stuff look better.
Ive got a grey bravo on my 223 tikka, I might get the enclosed for it.
I’d “bond” it if I was you.
Was on the fence before but especially with an aluminum chassis it seems to be a no brainer.
What barrel ya got on the 223?
Just factory tikka varmint nothing fancy and I agree I’m leaning towards bedding it as well. Just gotta find someone reputable in the area.
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Not gonna lie, I should do something with my life besides shoot guns, hunt, and go surf.
Best to leave employment and responsible to professionals. Amateurs such as myself can’t hang
Best to leave employment and responsible to professionals. Amateurs such as myself can’t hang
@Ndbowhunter are you a trust fund baby, or a drug dealer?
How do you support your firearms/surfing addictions?
How do you support your firearms/surfing addictions?
i herd cats
hahahaha
nah you can pm me if ur keen, let's keep it on tikka rifles tho.
might have heard of them getting used off the flat range.
hahahaha
nah you can pm me if ur keen, let's keep it on tikka rifles tho.
might have heard of them getting used off the flat range.
I’m looking for a CTR or Varmint in .223 but literally nothing is in stock. Sad face. Any leads? Or any idea when they will be shipping again? I have a back order with EO but haven’t heard anything.
Just added a 26” heavy contour prefit in 6.5 CM from International Barrels to the Tikka T3x Tac A1
Other spec:
Vortex Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27
Spuhr SP-4902 30moa mount
CKYE-POD
MDT Muzzel Brak, Arca Rail, Vertical Grip, Forend Weights
Sterk swept bolt knob
GRS bag rider
Other spec:
Vortex Razor HD Gen II 4.5-27
Spuhr SP-4902 30moa mount
CKYE-POD
MDT Muzzel Brak, Arca Rail, Vertical Grip, Forend Weights
Sterk swept bolt knob
GRS bag rider
I bought it from a local dealer, but i know that the link i posted ship overseas.
You buy the stock, forend and midsection separately. you pick the midsection for whatever mechanism you intend to use, and then you can choose from the following frontends:
- standard
- standard with picatinny top
- standard with flat top
- competition ( with M-LOK and ability to mount weights outside and inside)
- competition medium (shorter the the above, but same options)
On the stock you can add distances for LOP, folding mechanism.
I am not affiliated with them in any way, just throwing out a recommendation.
Vision Chassis System Skytterlinken
Vision Chassis System Norskprodusert modulbasert 7075 T651 aluminium chassis. Fantastisk gjennomført kvalitet! Og meget gode muligheter for tilpasning for skyttere i alle størrelser, fasonger, ønsker og behov. Chassiet blir levert med flere valgmuli
www.skytterlinken.no
Ill take some pics next time I'm out
OK so I am hoping some of ya'll learned folks can school me on a subject I am not quite an expert on. (Putting it mildly.)
I am wondering exactly what if any "bedding" does the Tikka T3X UPR have?
I typed out a long long post and realized nobody cares about my rambling but - understanding that one of the reasons I really liked the UPR was that it's billed as having one of the best out-of-the-box stocks anywhere near it's class/price-range - and for someone like me who would love to meticulously build up a rig piece by piece and $1,500 part by $1,500 part (like when I was younger and more money to blow...) but I can't, and this seemed to offer a great deal on an "out-of-the-box" high-quality solution. ... and Tikka's website and videos go on and on about the time and detail they put into the bedding of this etc. - and it really doesn't seem like it has any bedding whatsoever. I thought it would be good to go out of the box - am I going to have to have it glass-bedded? (It doesn't look to me like it has aluminum pillars neither, but you'd think they would have done that if it was necessary...?)
Years ago, and with much more money available, I had a 700 AAC-SD build in a Manners T5A DBM with the Badger-Ordnance mini-chassis... one of things I really liked was everyone explained that it was probably the best solution for "rock-solid bedding" or however it was stated. Drop in the action, torque the screws to the proper setting with a torque wrench, and done. I assumed Tikka had done some other kind of bedding when then are literally putting up videos about how important the bedding was to this particular rifle/stock combo. So, maybe I could use some education here, thanks much!
I am wondering exactly what if any "bedding" does the Tikka T3X UPR have?
I typed out a long long post and realized nobody cares about my rambling but - understanding that one of the reasons I really liked the UPR was that it's billed as having one of the best out-of-the-box stocks anywhere near it's class/price-range - and for someone like me who would love to meticulously build up a rig piece by piece and $1,500 part by $1,500 part (like when I was younger and more money to blow...) but I can't, and this seemed to offer a great deal on an "out-of-the-box" high-quality solution. ... and Tikka's website and videos go on and on about the time and detail they put into the bedding of this etc. - and it really doesn't seem like it has any bedding whatsoever. I thought it would be good to go out of the box - am I going to have to have it glass-bedded? (It doesn't look to me like it has aluminum pillars neither, but you'd think they would have done that if it was necessary...?)
Years ago, and with much more money available, I had a 700 AAC-SD build in a Manners T5A DBM with the Badger-Ordnance mini-chassis... one of things I really liked was everyone explained that it was probably the best solution for "rock-solid bedding" or however it was stated. Drop in the action, torque the screws to the proper setting with a torque wrench, and done. I assumed Tikka had done some other kind of bedding when then are literally putting up videos about how important the bedding was to this particular rifle/stock combo. So, maybe I could use some education here, thanks much!
This is one of the best looking tac a1s I have seen. I for sure have to do some of these mods!!
Got a little time to shoot this morning before getting rained out. Nice and cool morning. First 20 rounds after getting my zero. Forgot to load my bag with targets and all I had was the ones KRG sent with the chassis. Not a fan of them at all, but still happy with how it shot. No issues with the mag dropping free with recoil.
I'm not sure you really need any kind of bedding with modern materials and production techniques. Back in the day when you had wooden stocks and lower tolerance actions you needed an epoxy cast to match the shape of the inlet to the shape of the action and achieve a very rigid bedding area that would not distort with the wood.
On the other hand, the action on the Tikkas have very precise manufacturing tolerances so the external footprint of their actions should be very consistent. Tikka probably also has precise manufacturing techniques to shape the inlet so the internal support surface is consistent too. Then the bedding area of the UPR has carbon fiber and fiber glass reinforcement to provide extra rigidity. With that material base they can then engineer in a bedding scheme that let's them torque in the action to achieve stress free support without using an epoxy cast.
This isn't unique to Tikka. From what I've read a lot of the aftermarket stocks on the market today probably don't need epoxy bedding at all. Heck, even the plastic fantastic CTR stock shoots pretty well out of the box. In a free floated rifle, the barrel, the action and the scope mounting are what's responsible for the accuracy. The stock just has to not screw things up by not putting extra stresses on the action as mounted and not bend or warp to transfer stress to the action or the barrel from loading forces experienced in different field positions. As long as you engineer the interface and match the material properties correctly, it should not affect accuracy much.
Would love to hear other people's opinions on this, but a lot has already been discussed on here in other threads.
OK thank you very much - very very much ... I didn't mean to ask something that had already been discussed , I thought starting a new thread might tick people off and there are very few things that come up when searching for "UPR"-related Tikka topics and I just thought, you guys are the people to ask, sorry if it was a bother etc. But thank you very very much, great info to learn & understand etc.
And the barrel is *definitely* free-floated - best I have ever seen in any of my (relatively modest collection of) rifles.
And the barrel is *definitely* free-floated - best I have ever seen in any of my (relatively modest collection of) rifles.
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