i'll go and confirm both versions i have and get back to you in a few mins. pretty sure they are receiver length.
i'll go and confirm both versions i have and get back to you in a few mins. pretty sure they are receiver length.
MDT's standard 20moa rail is receiver length with included recoil/locating pin
doesn't look it but i'm holding it beside the higher version where it would bolt up to the receiver
no worries, right on lunchtime here down under so i got plenty of time 
also doesn't look it but i have the t3x varmint in an ESS. need to have a vegemite breakfast to carry that sucker
also doesn't look it but i have the t3x varmint in an ESS. need to have a vegemite breakfast to carry that sucker
About to change the trigger spring on my TAC A1 . What is the torque used to tighten the trigger housing to the action, and the action to the chassis ?
Thank you
Thank you
This is not correct for the Tac A1.
The trigger group to action for all models is recommended 55 to 65 in/lbs. which is also what some aftermarket triggers are suggested.
The action screws on Tac A1 and CTR are recommended 62 in/lbs. because it is a metal trigger guard.
The above posted is what a lot of people use for the standard plastic trigger guard on T3/T3x.
The recommended max is 44 in/lbs.
Request for those with a ctr and/or a varmint.
Could you guys post up measurements of the barrel like I did for the lite? I was trying to take a measurement whenever the barrel grew by another 0.01" in diameter. I stopped when i got to the front of the stock. Don't worry about converting to metric. I will do that later.
Wanting to have this for my own records and to try to help other people down the road. Also planning on updating my Tikka buying guide post #3273 way back on page 66.
For example of what I'm asking for.
Legend:
Diameter [Dia in mm] back from muzzle {bfm in mm} (barrel length) <bl in mm>
Muzzle 0.616 [15.64] 0 {0} (24.33) <618>
.620 [15.75] 1.358 {34.5} (23) <584.2>
.630 [16] 2.57 {65.28} (21.75) <552.45>
.640 [16.25] 3.81 {96.77} (20.5) <520.7>
.650 [16.5] 5.05 {128.27} (19.25) <488.95>
.660 [16.75] 6.27 {159.25} (18.06) <458.72>
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 [16.81] 6.625 {168.27} (17.7) <449.58>
0.673 [17.1] 8.08 {205.23} (16.25) <412.75>
Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 [18.06] (11) <279.4>
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 [18.41] (9.33) <236.98>
Could you guys post up measurements of the barrel like I did for the lite? I was trying to take a measurement whenever the barrel grew by another 0.01" in diameter. I stopped when i got to the front of the stock. Don't worry about converting to metric. I will do that later.
Wanting to have this for my own records and to try to help other people down the road. Also planning on updating my Tikka buying guide post #3273 way back on page 66.
For example of what I'm asking for.
Legend:
Diameter [Dia in mm] back from muzzle {bfm in mm} (barrel length) <bl in mm>
Muzzle 0.616 [15.64] 0 {0} (24.33) <618>
.620 [15.75] 1.358 {34.5} (23) <584.2>
.630 [16] 2.57 {65.28} (21.75) <552.45>
.640 [16.25] 3.81 {96.77} (20.5) <520.7>
.650 [16.5] 5.05 {128.27} (19.25) <488.95>
.660 [16.75] 6.27 {159.25} (18.06) <458.72>
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 [16.81] 6.625 {168.27} (17.7) <449.58>
0.673 [17.1] 8.08 {205.23} (16.25) <412.75>
Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 [18.06] (11) <279.4>
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 [18.41] (9.33) <236.98>
I love my T3x. First gun I ever bought with my own money. Think I was 14. Still shoots as good as it ever has.
Love me some tikka! Probably going to swap the green bravo for a mdt xrs
My wife wanted a rifle so I gave her my CTR, rebarreled it to 6GT and had some of the pieces on the W3 cerakoted.
My son's first centerfire rifle. was originally a 308 win T3 hunter. After he picked up a Proof 30 cal 1/10 Sendero contour barrel off a prize table, we remade it into a light weight mountain hunter, still in 308 Win. Its one of his favorite hunting rifles now.
Was browsing Eurooptic and they’re listing the Roughtech in 6.5 PRC and some 300 WM with 1-10 twist for those that are interested.
May be picking up another rifle this year.
May be picking up another rifle this year.
T3 300wsm
#5 sporter barrel 1:10
Krg bravo chassis
Athlon btr 4.5-25
Pva jet blast
Custom 9/16-32 to 5/8-24 adapter
Had to have an adapter machined to run the pva brake. 9/16 -32 was a weird pitch and couldn’t find any brakes for it. Didn’t care for the cylindrical brake the shop put on when I had it re barreled
Need some advice on a lightweight chassis system. Something under 3 pounds, preferably closer to 2.
rifle started out as a CTR. Quickly moved it over to a KRG bravo and although useful, felt a little heavy and just couldn’t get it right. I’ve since sold the bravo and moved the barreled action in a McMillan game hunter edge fill. Super light and I like the grip angle and forend length more than the bravo for hunting. Also added a small arca section for my tripod and a triad stock pack. Overall, it’s much lighter than the bravo but still leaving something on the table adjustability wise.
is my only option for a lightweight fully adjustable hunting chassis the XLR magnesium?
rifle started out as a CTR. Quickly moved it over to a KRG bravo and although useful, felt a little heavy and just couldn’t get it right. I’ve since sold the bravo and moved the barreled action in a McMillan game hunter edge fill. Super light and I like the grip angle and forend length more than the bravo for hunting. Also added a small arca section for my tripod and a triad stock pack. Overall, it’s much lighter than the bravo but still leaving something on the table adjustability wise.
is my only option for a lightweight fully adjustable hunting chassis the XLR magnesium?
Doesn't look to me like your fully seated on your recoil lug.
I lightened the picture to show you how it's angled up.
TacA1 is back w OD green cerakote. Didn’t improve the 1/2 moa groups but looks better I think.
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I’ve taken the stock off 3-4 times cause a few people have said that. I’ll try again
Hey guys looking for recommendations on ring height for a PST gen II 5-25 on a tikka varmint with area 419 20moa rail. Hopefully someone with this setup can chime in. I want to order some rings but don’t have the scope in hand yet.
Or if you look into it others have had the same issue with the bravo on a tikka. A few I’ve found have had issues with holes not being in the correct spot.
I would double check the lug just see if it actually fits the notch on the action first.
It always helped me to take my thumbs and see-saw the action back and forth until I felt it slip down into place.
It might also help to file off the sharp front and back top edges of the lug a little to keep it from catching.
wait for the scope and use coins to get the height ooooooooor wait for someone who has the same setup as yourself to chime in
Dave, when I got my ctr, it had a clip/flat metal tab on the bottom of the action, near the magazine well, that my varmint tikka didn’t have. I had to remove that to get it to sit in the bravo
Whatever is going on, it doesn't look right in the photo. I wouldn't shoot it like that. You could damage something.
Think it’s finally set. Got everything all snugged up and it does look to be on the lug.
i will say this per krg instructions is where I believe the issue lies. Putting it on the butt and pulling down will almost definitely cause the lug to be unseated.
i will say this per krg instructions is where I believe the issue lies. Putting it on the butt and pulling down will almost definitely cause the lug to be unseated.
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You seat the lug into the slot on the action, start the screws AND then pull down. Idea is to seat the action up against the lug so the action doesn't shift under recoil.
1" height rings will work even with a sunshade and a Vortex Defender scope cap.
I have the same setup on my CTR
Anyone running the MPA chassis and which mags you run. Looks like they don’t recommend the Pmags and looking for something that has the coal to run long 223 if needed.
Anyone know the torque spec for the bolts attaching Picatinny rail to action? (on CTR). Tikka won't tell me
Feel free to use 40 inch-pounds if you want, but the factory instructions specify 22 inch-pounds (2.5 Nm) .
You might also think about purple Loctite instead of Blue considering the thread size.
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Thanks maybe I’m wrong I did my Tikka long time ago so never mind what I said sorry
Bolt handle cut out. You can do it with a round file.
Anything else @cannoncrossfire? I know you've modified krg chassis before.
Edit: I was assuming asker was going to buy the tikka inlet. This is the tikka thread.
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Dont buy the rem700 version @Bp90 - get the Tikka version (RH) even if your Tikka is left handed. Should just be the bolt handle cut out. KRG made the tikka inlet symmetrical so it has all the necessary space for a left or right hand tikka t3 except for the left hand bolt handle cut out. Early krg Tikka chassis didn't have left handed trigger clearance, but they do these days.
As mentioned already, get the Tikka inlet chassis. Converting to Left Hand is easy.
You need to create a bolt handle cutout on the left side. You can use a round file, a Dremel, or an end mill cutting bit. You then need (should, maybe not a need) to fill in the gap on the right side in the aluminum backbone part of the chassis so that junk doesn’t get down in there in the trigger.
I used an end mill bit in my drill press, chucked up the Bravo in a table vise to make the cutout. I filled the opposing gap with Bondo, and when dry sanded and filed it to desired shape. Painted these areas with Brownells Alumhyde.
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didn’t realize how green the krg stock is... definitely not an od green.
Pictures on their site doesn’t make it look like that.
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