I have 2 Tikka Varmint rifles to sell 1 in 223 and 1 in 22-250. I recently bought them for a Prairie Dog hunt and found I preferred using an AR15. Neither has more than 100 rounds thru them. Unfortunately I do not have privileges to post in the exchange. I used to but don't come here often. I will post on Gun Broker. I also have a McMillan stock for inlet for standard Tikka bottom metal (plastic) that I don't need. Its a thing of beauty and fits the Tikka Varmint well.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
I went with the CTR 1:8 20” and tossed it in a Bravo with CTR mags. Super easy and shoots great!
Something a little different.
I've kitted my T3X Varmint .308 with target sights for a 300m comp.
The Sights are Pheonix Sights. The rail is a Spuhr extended rail which i have reversed to bring the extended part back behind the receiver and move the sight 2" closer to the eye.
Chassis is an MDT XRS.
And a single shot adapter
I've kitted my T3X Varmint .308 with target sights for a 300m comp.
The Sights are Pheonix Sights. The rail is a Spuhr extended rail which i have reversed to bring the extended part back behind the receiver and move the sight 2" closer to the eye.
Chassis is an MDT XRS.
And a single shot adapter
Attachments
Looks interesting. What is your opinion on the XRS? I was set to get one for my Varmint, but now I am tempted to just get the ACC. A lot more money, of course. Your rifle looks great.
I rate the XRS very highly.
I had an ACC on my Ultimatum Deadline Action. I also had MPA BA Comp chassis for Rem and Tikka's.
I bought an XRS as interim chassis for one of my rifles because the ACC's and MPA's were all out of stock here and not due for months (I'm in Australia).
I planned on using the XRS only until i could get the "better" chassis.
Long story short, I was so impressed by the XRS that I now have 4 of them and I've sold my ACC and MPA's.
It's a personal preference and ergonomic choice.
The ACC and MPA are great chassis' but I just never felt 100% comfortable behind them. I knew I wasn't comfortable but I couldn't figure out why and it finally clicked when I got that first XRS.
I just find that an underhanging AR style grip doesn't work for me on a Bolt action rifle. I didn't like being forced to have my thumb down the side as it feels awkward.
I've always preferred the feel of stocks like Manners or McMillan and the XRS has that same kind of feel. I can rest my thumb on the centerline and still get to the bolt quickly.
The XRS is similar to the KRG Bravo. I've had a Bravo and felt it was the most comfortable of the KRG chassis but for me the XRS is a slight step up in comfort.
Thank you. My heart says get a Manners but I can't wait 4-6 months. I was going to get an ACC but the XRS is most likely fine for me. Good to hear it exceeded your expectations.
Hi guys, 13 years behind a rifle, but first post here.
Just finished my newest loadout
Base is Sako Tikka T3x TAC A1 6.5 CRMR with 24" barrel.
- Can is Ase Utra SL5i
- Glass is Vortex Viper PST GEN II 3-15x44 with EBR-7C
- Spuhr mount
- Magpul MOE K2+
- vortex Viper red dot for deer
- bipod is Tier One Evolution
I'm a 338 Lapua Mag Guy so I 6.5 Creedmoor is pretty new to me. After 200 rounds it does the job though and I can see some birds dropping from trees with this one
Just finished my newest loadout
Base is Sako Tikka T3x TAC A1 6.5 CRMR with 24" barrel.
- Can is Ase Utra SL5i
- Glass is Vortex Viper PST GEN II 3-15x44 with EBR-7C
- Spuhr mount
- Magpul MOE K2+
- vortex Viper red dot for deer
- bipod is Tier One Evolution
I'm a 338 Lapua Mag Guy so I 6.5 Creedmoor is pretty new to me. After 200 rounds it does the job though and I can see some birds dropping from trees with this one
Took the T3 in .308 out this weekend. Not my best effort, and I had camera issues, plus my suppressor was loose (found out after the session)
I still prefer .308 to 6.5cm as far as "feel"
I still prefer .308 to 6.5cm as far as "feel"
I just had PVA drop a proof pre-fit carbon fiber TAC A1 in mine and it works pretty well.
I’m still putting it through its initial paces but I’m able to put bullets through the same hole at 100 yards.
According to proof they are no longer making drop in barrels for the Tikka T3X Tac A1 rifle…. What they were able to tell me a couple of retailers they thought would have them in stock… And I picked up two.
Last edited:
Nice video. Cool to see the Arken reticle. Just ordered a 6x24 SH4. Cool rifle. Rifle specs? *saw the video description nevermind
Im moving to the old Sierra 155s (little bit cheaper than the Berger 155.5s) not a fan of shooting 100 rounds of 175s anymore.
Last edited:
Unless you already have a bunch of them or you wanna do it just because, they would definitely not be my first choice.
These barrels are notoriously slow to begin with and 8 twist does not help at all in terms of stability.
Even the 80s were meh… shot fine at 100 but the 75-77gr stuff was noticeably better at distance.
What was interesting to me is that the factory barrel for the T3X shot lead bullets very well. (I have a 6.5cm)
However when I attempted to shoot solid bullets through the barrel, they patterned kind of like a shotgun with a 19 inch group.
i’d be surprised if the .223 barrels didn’t suffer the same consistency issues that the 6.5 and other barrels suffer.
Which would explain why so many different types of bullets are sort of meh.
The original barrel didn’t have more than about 700 rounds on it, but when I took a borescope to it I noticed all sorts of chatter marks and things that I would not of expected to see in a Tikka rifle. It wasn’t as bad as the Ruger RPRR that I bought new and was astonished to see how bad the barrel was… but it did have a tendency to get full of copper pretty quick, and it was a lot more picky with different bullets.
Flip over to the proof barrel I had installed last week and it’s a world of difference.
However when I attempted to shoot solid bullets through the barrel, they patterned kind of like a shotgun with a 19 inch group.
i’d be surprised if the .223 barrels didn’t suffer the same consistency issues that the 6.5 and other barrels suffer.
Which would explain why so many different types of bullets are sort of meh.
The original barrel didn’t have more than about 700 rounds on it, but when I took a borescope to it I noticed all sorts of chatter marks and things that I would not of expected to see in a Tikka rifle. It wasn’t as bad as the Ruger RPRR that I bought new and was astonished to see how bad the barrel was… but it did have a tendency to get full of copper pretty quick, and it was a lot more picky with different bullets.
Flip over to the proof barrel I had installed last week and it’s a world of difference.
GRS Bifrost (brown) ordered for T3 Sporter 308 24" yesterday. Finally. MT bottom metal, shroud and lug already done.
Also called Robert's Precision Rifles (Spring TX) about threading its barrel. I need to verify the diameter is big enough, I can't imagine it's not.
Also called Robert's Precision Rifles (Spring TX) about threading its barrel. I need to verify the diameter is big enough, I can't imagine it's not.
Last edited:
I made it out to the range this morning with this new to me T3 Tactical in .223 . I borrowed a scope and mount from one of my AR’s. Yeah, yeah, I know…that height over bore . I was shooting 3 different factory loadings:
1. PMC X-TAC with a 77gr SMK
2. Sierra factory ammo with a 55gr HPBT
3. Frontier 5.56 NATO w/ Hornady’s 75gr HPBT
Yes, all 5 shot groups at 100 yards.
I have a Tikka T3 Varmint in .22-250 on its way too.
1. PMC X-TAC with a 77gr SMK
2. Sierra factory ammo with a 55gr HPBT
3. Frontier 5.56 NATO w/ Hornady’s 75gr HPBT
Yes, all 5 shot groups at 100 yards.
I have a Tikka T3 Varmint in .22-250 on its way too.
Attachments
I picked up my new Tikka T3x TAC A1 last Friday at the dealer. I have to wait to get a replacement set of rings before I can go shooting, but want to get familiarwith the rifle in the meantime.
Are there any tips from other owners of this rifle regarding what I should do or look out for? I plan to keep the rifle stock for now.
Thanks
Are there any tips from other owners of this rifle regarding what I should do or look out for? I plan to keep the rifle stock for now.
Thanks
The factory barrel only works well with lead core bullets… That is to say jacketed rounds.
You’ll find that the factory barrel shoots very well, but it also heats up very quickly. As the barrel and action begin to heat up, if the ammunition you’re shooting is on the hot side you will begin to experience heavy bolt lift.
A typical round that shoots very well is the 142 gr SMK running with ~41.5gr H4350 in Hornady brass, with LRPs.
Berger 140 factory ammo is pretty great. Likewise most things you can buy from Spark Munitions will shoot very well. Prime 130s are decent but werent the best.
Unlike my TRG rifles the T3X does not like solid copper bullets; I found that they would group around 18 to 19 inches at 100 yards no matter how hard I tried to work up a load. This is because the factory barrel is inconsistent from one end to the other in so far as the overall rifling: parts of the barrel slightly balloon out and then come back in which is not an issue for a lead-based bullet. However it is an issue if you have solid copper rounds because you get blow by the exhaust gases around the bullet. This is not really a problem for most people and lead rounds don’t have an issue with this at all.
Overall with the right lead core bullets the factory barrel is a tack driver.
I will say that in my experience you do have to clean it a lot more because there will be tooling marks in the lands and grooves on the barrel which you won’t see so much from an aftermarket barrel that cost as much as a rifle did.
You’ll find that the factory barrel shoots very well, but it also heats up very quickly. As the barrel and action begin to heat up, if the ammunition you’re shooting is on the hot side you will begin to experience heavy bolt lift.
A typical round that shoots very well is the 142 gr SMK running with ~41.5gr H4350 in Hornady brass, with LRPs.
Berger 140 factory ammo is pretty great. Likewise most things you can buy from Spark Munitions will shoot very well. Prime 130s are decent but werent the best.
Unlike my TRG rifles the T3X does not like solid copper bullets; I found that they would group around 18 to 19 inches at 100 yards no matter how hard I tried to work up a load. This is because the factory barrel is inconsistent from one end to the other in so far as the overall rifling: parts of the barrel slightly balloon out and then come back in which is not an issue for a lead-based bullet. However it is an issue if you have solid copper rounds because you get blow by the exhaust gases around the bullet. This is not really a problem for most people and lead rounds don’t have an issue with this at all.
Overall with the right lead core bullets the factory barrel is a tack driver.
I will say that in my experience you do have to clean it a lot more because there will be tooling marks in the lands and grooves on the barrel which you won’t see so much from an aftermarket barrel that cost as much as a rifle did.
The factory barrel only works well with lead core bullets… That is to say jacketed rounds.
You’ll find that the factory barrel shoots very well, but it also heats up very quickly. As the barrel and action begin to heat up, if the ammunition you’re shooting is on the hot side you will begin to experience heavy bolt lift.
A typical round that shoots very well is the 142 gr SMK running with ~41.5gr H4350 in Hornady brass, with LRPs.
Berger 140 factory ammo is pretty great. Likewise most things you can buy from Spark Munitions will shoot very well. Prime 130s are decent but werent the best.
Unlike my TRG rifles the T3X does not like solid copper bullets; I found that they would group around 18 to 19 inches at 100 yards no matter how hard I tried to work up a load. This is because the factory barrel is inconsistent from one end to the other in so far as the overall rifling: parts of the barrel slightly balloon out and then come back in which is not an issue for a lead-based bullet. However it is an issue if you have solid copper rounds because you get blow by the exhaust gases around the bullet. This is not really a problem for most people and lead rounds don’t have an issue with this at all.
Overall with the right lead core bullets the factory barrel is a tack driver.
I will say that in my experience you do have to clean it a lot more because there will be tooling marks in the lands and grooves on the barrel which you won’t see so much from an aftermarket barrel that cost as much as a rifle did.
Thank you for your input.
I don't plan to shoot solids. I do have Hornady 140 gr EDL Match bullets, Hornady brass and H4350 on hand. Very disappointed to hear that Tikka barrels are of such poor manufacturer.
I saw that.
I guess it didn't work for you?
I bought the MDT XRS but ended up returning it.
Great chassis, just pushed me overweight for my rifles intended role (short / light / handy).
I drilled a Matthew kydex cheek riser into the factory stock and I'm loving it as is.
I have shot solid hunting bullets (Barnes TSX, TTSX, Hornady GMX and Lapua Naturalis) in three different Tikkas with factory barrels (6.5x55, 6.5 Creedmoor and 9.3x62) and never had any issues.
One thing to keep an eye out for is bullet length as bullet stabilization depends on that - a 140 grain 6.5mm caliber lead bullet will stabilize in any 6.5 (don't know about Grendels and other midget cartridges though) while a 140 grain GMX for example is very long and prone to cause stabilization issues in a lot of rifles.
One thing to keep an eye out for is bullet length as bullet stabilization depends on that - a 140 grain 6.5mm caliber lead bullet will stabilize in any 6.5 (don't know about Grendels and other midget cartridges though) while a 140 grain GMX for example is very long and prone to cause stabilization issues in a lot of rifles.
Here is Berger bullets twist rate bullet stabilization calculator :
Twist Rate Stability Calculator
Our newly updated Twist Rate Stability Calculator not only tells you what your SG is, but it also lets you know if you are reaching your optimized BC.
bergerbullets.com
I started fiddling around with that the other night once I learned that the .22-250 Tikka I bought and should be getting shipped right now has a 1:14 barrel twist rate. Turns out I have plenty of 69gr and 77gr SMK’s. Some fellas on another forum were saying that a 14 twist could send 69’s and 77’s keyholing through a target.
Honestly I have no experience at all with the .22-250 so I cannot weigh in on your thoughts. I have a 1:9 .223 to be able to run 69-73 grain lead bullets but the -250 delivers a whole lot more speed.
I decided to go back to a bravo since I got one for my T1x to keep things consistent. The Phoenix is handier with the bravo being sturdier.
New KRG X-RAY gen4 ain´t bad.
Same feeling on the trigger hand, what you get with Whiskey.
Same feeling on the trigger hand, what you get with Whiskey.
Thanks for the reply.
I might have mentioned that I have 2,000 plus of the 69gr and 77gr SMK’s in .224 caliber . In a way it would be nice, if they shot well in the 14 twist .22-250, especially if I went prairie dog hunting
But in looking at a few reloading manuals, comparing/contrasting .223 and .22-250, as the bullet weights go up, the .22-250 has less and less of a velocity advantage.) IIRC, for the 55 grainers, the .22-250 travels about 500 fps faster. Oddly enough, the Sierra manual I have doesn’t list any 77gr loadings for .223 Remington (bolt action) and .2-250
My twins. Both hunters, 6.5 CM and 6.5PRC. Probably pulling the lower (PRC) barrel and bolt to swap with the upper if needed. Not much magnum worthhy hunting here in SC. Besides, the idea of having switch barrels is much more appealing since I really love the rifle on top. Plus I’m thinning the herd when it comes to complete rifles.
Everything I took last year was with that little 20” Creed. 75y-304, all died.
Absolutely love Tikkas.
Everything I took last year was with that little 20” Creed. 75y-304, all died.
Absolutely love Tikkas.
Attachments
I was looking at the 22-250 varmint too, but the twist rate was a deal breaker for me. I got the .223 Varmint. Even the new Super Varmint 22-250 model has the 1:14 twist. You could always just shoot out your factory barrel and then get a 22-250 or 22CM barrel in the twist you want. I just got the new Hornady 11th edition loading manual and it recommends 1:9 twist for 68 gr bthp, a 1:8 for 70gr GMX, and the 73, 75 and 80 gr. bullets. Even the 60 gr v-max says it will not stabilize in a 1:14.
Well… arrgghhh…
Thank you sir for the reply!
By the way, I am brand new here, so my apologies for monopolizing this thread/possibly turning it into a reloading thread.
Some other real quick questions :
1. There is or was this little black plastic piece that covered the rear of the bolt on the Tactical I just got. It promptly cracked and split into two pieces.
Is it critical to the function or longevity of the gun?
Or is it strictly cosmetic?
2. For the .22-250 Varmint (JRTXH314) model that is inbound, should I go ahead and buy a scope base for the gun now?
Or should I actually wait to have it in my hands to confirm proper hole spacing, then order a base?
Which base manufacturer would you recommend?
I haven’t picked out any scopes, nor rings yet.
Interested to know more about your build? stock, barrel etc. nice rigs!!
Saw a video that the Tikka T3x Arctic had a two-stage Trigger . Has anyone tried one and give us a report? Can it be swap into a regular one? Thank you.
24" 308 Sporter, now in a Bifrost. MT bottom metal, rail, shroud.
BLEMISHED BT46-NC PSR Atlas, 419 arca clamp and Henderson 3" arca rail ordered.
Next time MT runs a special I will get their trigger spring, and the bolt release
Meopta Optika6 5x30 MRAD (DLO reticle) will go on this.
I am thinking Aadmount 34 mm, since Jon doesn't make 34 mm rings.
223 CTR now in the Sporter stock. MT steel recoil lug, UTG bipod.
SWFA 3x9 HD, Aadmount 30mm rings, caps and throw lever.
Neutered CTR stock
Hi there does anyone know if the TX CTR short action 260 rem will fit into the TX3 super varmint 308 stock ?
Hi John,
Nice rigs!
What drew you to the Bifrost stock?
I have one but am still in two minds - amazing ergonomics, but it's heavier than a standard hunting stock, and doesn't have the rigidity of an alloy frame ... I keep wanting to sell it, because I can't really see a good use case ... but then I pick it up and it just melts into my arms like an ex-girlfriend I need to forget about.
And thanks for the lead on the Henderson rails; I'd briefly looked for short Arca rails for the Bifrost but not found those. Did you get the Universal rail or the Hunter? And what mounting option did you choose?
The regular varmint barrel contour is larger so you should be good there with the stock inlet. The bottom metal is not the same though. You are able to convert it with the right parts but will not have your 10 rd mag anymore
That is what I am concerned about as the CTR has a 10 round mag and double stacked were the varmint had a4 round single stack.
I have wanted a GRS stock ever since I first saw them on Mountain Tacticals site. I have also been reading here and at arf.com about chassis. When I start comparing features the Bifrost has many of the same features as some of the chassis.
I also looked at a Bravo (poor man's TRG), but I don't want to jump to AICS mags, since I have enough either OEM or MT.
I like the way it feels too. The majority of my usage will be bench. I will see how it holds up. I don't think I will hit the limits of this stock until I use up my milsurp ammo (British and some Hirtenberger) and start reloading.
As for the ARCA rail, I chose the Universal with the chassis kit, hoping some of the screws are metric. I can't believe GRS wouldn't be using metric screws.
I have also emailed GRS (to see what screw thread they use) and Short Action Precision to see what is in the kit.
Update. The SAP ARCA options (screws) are not metric. Waiting to hear from GRS. I will also check if the lower slots are MLOC. If they are, I will switch to MLOC and source screws locally and dual secure it.
oops, I was looking at a picture, showing the hollow areas on the bottom, which are obviously not MLOC. I will get the bare kit and source some fasteners locally.
Last edited:
I have seen a few Tikka 22-250 with a 1-8" barrel and that would be great for the 70-80 gr bullets. @WeimaranerDad With the 1-14" you will be at 55gr and lighter. Shoot it out and get a Preferred Barrels prefit or any of the many others that are offered for a Tikka. My 223 Varmint shoots about every bullet weight good, but the 65,75, and,77 gr bullets really shine.
If you have a ctr stock and ctr bottom metal you can do it. It just will take some sandpaper and some elbow grease to enlarge the barrel channel of the ctr to fit the diameter of the varmint barrel. Using a dowel rod with sandpaper wrapped around it worked ok. Super slow, but it gets there eventually with pretty decent results. I would not reccomend it if you are in a hurry!
That was the bolt shroud, I think it serves to provide a smooth cover and keeps grit out.
There are aftermarket metal alternatives made by Mountain Tactical and Sterk.
By the time you bought the varmint and the CTR components you would be about halfway to getting a krg chassis, if they are available there, depending on price in a diffetent country, of course.
