Not really sure what you’re getting at with covering the bag rider? It’s meant to ride on the bag and not sure you’d ever want or need to protect it.
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Mountain tactical makes a tac a1 specific bag rider. I just made my own at work out of stainless round stock.
I've had a xlr element for hunting. I didn't like it. It was way to cold, and I didnt like the rubber butt pad. I was always making noise brushing against the metal chassis, so I used self adhesive craft foam to cover the entire stock. I ended up selling it off.Yeah its pretty light. With a folder (which I want) its around 36 oz with the carbon butt stock and 48 oz with the tac butt stock... and thats with an ARCA rail the others dont have, its a folder, and the LOP is better (I'm tall). By the time I lengthen the LOP (which I cant do in a lot of the other lightweight stocks) and add an ARCA rail, they will probably weigh more than the XLR with the carbon stock, and not much less than with a TAC stock. I mean, just like you said - I sort of want the new Manners for the looks, but I'm skeptical that it will as good a hunting tool when its said and done.
But I do still want to bump my original question - I know there are feeding issues with aftermarket LA bottom metal and AICS mags with the Tikka's. My understanding is this shouldn't be an issue in an XLR since its a full chassis, but wanted to hear some first-hand experience.
I designed and printed a bag rider to suit the Tac A1 stock. It replaces the picatinny rail and uses the same screws to mount. It's not overly long but sits in a rear bag really well.
I've had a couple of people ask about getting one, I'm in Australia so it's not really worth the postage cost. You can download the file at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4963816 and have someone print it for you though.
No problemThanks so much for providing the file. I have never had anything 3D printed before. Is this a preferred material type to specify?
I've had a xlr element for hunting. I didn't like it. It was way to cold, and I didnt like the rubber butt pad. I was always making noise brushing against the metal chassis, so I used self adhesive craft foam to cover the entire stock. I ended up selling it off.
Ive tried a krg bravo and liked it, but the grip area was way to thick and felt too big.
I have ordered a manners eh1-tk exactly 5 months ago, so thats about a month out and Im hoping its the fix to my quest for a good comfortable stock.
Id like to try a krg x-ray if I dont like the manners.
Im ordered my manners with the mini chassis and the factory bottom metal. I prefer the tikka factory mags, they are plastic, but very reliable. My rifle is chambered in 22-250, and that round feeding through AICS mags is hit and miss. I had 2 well worn AICS mags that fed up to 5-6 rounds reliably, but I also had a new MDT metal mag that didnt feed for shit. I did have a MDT polymere AICS style mag for the .224 valkarie that would feed 7 rounds reliably, as I had to file the feed lips just so to match the tapered casing of the 22-250. I kept that one.
The mini chassis kicks ass. Been super reliable on my match rifle. I can do everything from pushing on the front of the mag, to shooting right off the mag and it’s continues to feed. Not bedded either and shoots better than I can. Zero check after pulling the action printed a .19 moa 5 round group in the center of a 1/2” dot. If that’s not repeatable enough…. I don’t think you can run long action mags in them though.Thanks for the feedback on the XLR. I have two KRG's, but its not an option as they are AICS short action or short action CRT mags only. I think the bravo is a great stock for the money and I do like my W3, but they arent options for this build (and I want something lighter anyway).
Going Long Action makes it more complicated. From talking to some people with experience, using an aftermarket bottom metal with AICS mags is not a great option for Tikka's, you're gonna have feeding issues (pretty sure this is why LRI makes their magazine filler block).... so you're basically using a stock plastic or aftermarket metal bottom metal, but with OEM mags. Not the end of the world, and allows for a AG Composites stock and, *I think* a Manners with their mini chassis or obviously a bedded Manners, but I havent called Manners to discuss.
Are you going with a mini chassis or going to bed it?
if you don’t like the manners I’d give a mcmillan adjustable game scout or warden a go. I’m also waiting on an eh1tk.I've had a xlr element for hunting. I didn't like it. It was way to cold, and I didnt like the rubber butt pad. I was always making noise brushing against the metal chassis, so I used self adhesive craft foam to cover the entire stock. I ended up selling it off.
Ive tried a krg bravo and liked it, but the grip area was way to thick and felt too big.
I have ordered a manners eh1-tk exactly 5 months ago, so thats about a month out and Im hoping its the fix to my quest for a good comfortable stock.
Id like to try a krg x-ray if I dont like the manners.
Agreed, I am out west and we do a lot of hiking and backpacking in, so weight matters.I had the gen1 element. It was super modular, but heavy when dressed. I use my rifles to hunt coyotes, and packing around a heavy rifle on a tripod sucks. I used to use a sling on the rifle and just walk out and carry the tripod and set up when I got to where I was going to stand. Now I mount the rifle to the tripod, cant the leveling base forward and lock it, and shoulder the rifle out to my spot. Much faster and lighter.
I also upgraded from a slik-700 and desmond d-low ballhead to a RRS 22i with a rrs tau-2-lb. For me its about cutting weight.
Thanks for the feedback, I'd prefer the mini chassis if I go the Manners route.The mini chassis kicks ass. Been super reliable on my match rifle. I can do everything from pushing on the front of the mag, to shooting right off the mag and it’s continues to feed. Not bedded either and shoots better than I can. Zero check after pulling the action printed a .19 moa 5 round group in the center of a 1/2” dot. If that’s not repeatable enough…. I don’t think you can run long action mags in them though.
if you don’t like the manners I’d give a mcmillan adjustable game scout or warden a go. I’m also waiting on an eh1tk.
The eh1 I have on order is for the factory plastic bottom metal. Yes the plastic mags in long action is what you probably want, especially if this will be a hunting rifle. They have two different mini chassis for the ctr or standard plastic bottom metal, along with the aics. If the factory plastic mini chassis is anything like the aics version it will be a winner.Thanks for the feedback, I'd prefer the mini chassis if I go the Manners route.
"The new MCS-BDLTK mini chassis is designed to work with both the factory hunting detach mag bottom metal and the factory CTR detach system. Will work with in all factory offered cartridges."
And they show a picture with stock plastic mags. All Tikka mags are the same length, so I assume it works with LA. https://mannersstocks.com/stocks/mini-chassis/
I do have to call them and ask, and I'll report back.
Edit: Note I am referring to the mini chassis made for oem plastic mags / CTR mags (seems to be two different options). Not the AICS mag mini chassis.
Exactly, thats the idea. I'll call them to discuss sometime this week. Its between this and an XLR magnesium.The eh1 I have on order is for the factory plastic bottom metal. Yes the plastic mags in long action is what you probably want, especially if this will be a hunting rifle. They have two different mini chassis for the ctr or standard plastic bottom metal, along with the aics. If the factory plastic mini chassis is anything like the aics version it will be a winner.
I’d like to give the xlr a go as well. My only holdback is aics mags. I have a hatred of aics mags on a hunting rifle. That and I’m not sure how much I’d like holding on to a chunk of metal in northern wi in November.Exactly, thats the idea. I'll call them to discuss sometime this week. Its between this and an XLR magnesium.
I don't actually make the entire knob I modify and thread the factory knob. Mine are actually threaded and capped with 416SS ends and then machined to final finish. Makes for a sleeker, cleaner looking knob I think. I got tired of all the big gawky gear shifter knob that everybody is selling. I mean, come on, we're cycle a silky smooth Tikka bolt; not shifting a truck transmission. Just my two cents and personal taste. I only make mine out of the factory bent knobs. View attachment 6527147
I successfully used my magazine voucher last fall. No issues.
Ok. I have a lot of tikka CTR parts , bottom metal and mags. All T3’s share the same footprint.You are asking 3 questions at once.
Will the barreled action fit? Yes. Hence viking78's response above.
Will the ctr magazine fit into the bottom metal of the super varmint? No. Pic is lite bottom metal in a ctr stock.
View attachment 7681051
Can you feed the ctr barreled action with the super varmint bottom metal and 308 magazine? Yes.
Now you have info so you can make your own decision.
That, and most likely long action bolt stop (or file down the one you have)Ok. I have a lot of tikka CTR parts , bottom metal and mags. All T3’s share the same footprint.
So I want to use CTR mags and bottom metal on the same caliber T3X Battue 308. So all I really need to do is do woodwork on the Battue stock to make the CTR bottom metal fit ! Correct? Same caliber. Same basic footprint.
I think the CTR mag sits further back compared to the standard plastic one. CTR's don't have the mag spring in front of the triggerEven if both are the same caliber?
The CTR comes with a medium bolt stop. It is between the short and long. I bought an adjustable one from High Velocity Hunting out of Australia when I used my CTR action for a 22BR. I had to move it to long action when I put a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel on it using AICS magazines.I think the CTR mag sits further back compared to the standard plastic one. CTR's don't have the mag spring in front of the trigger
What did it weigh in the top picture with the LRHS2 and the can? I will be interested in seeing what kind of velocity you get after the barrel is broken in. I have a 18" 6.5 Creed Bartlein that I am getting 2785 with 130s and 2715 with 140s and Rl16. A Carbon6 will be my next barrel, trying to decide between 25 Creed and 6.5 PRC.View attachment 7707345View attachment 7707346
Critter Getter, T3 Carbon6 16.5” 6.5 PRC, CTR bottom metal and mags, Vortex LHT 4.5-22x50, 8lbs 9oz (bottom picture)
With the LRHS2 I was right under 9lbs and the can is 1.5lbsWhat did it weigh in the top picture with the LRHS2 and the can? I will be interested in seeing what kind of velocity you get after the barrel is broken in. I have a 18" 6.5 Creed Bartlein that I am getting 2785 with 130s and 2715 with 140s and Rl16. A Carbon6 will be my next barrel, trying to decide between 25 Creed and 6.5 PRC.
They are M6, not sure on the length. I have a few at the house that I could measure.Can anyone please confirm that the screw that mates the trigger assembly to the action is an M6 x 20mm. Many thanks!!
T3 action if that's needed.
Got my LRI bolt fluted. Then coated it with T coat. It’s butterAny of you with fluted bolts on the Tikka's I have a question. I have a tac A1 in 260 rem I'm going to send off and have the bolt flutted. I'm just wanting to make sure it doesn't cause any issues or make the boot less smooth? I have had this done on other rems and rem style actions with no issues and just wanting to make sure the Tikka is the same.
nice rifle, what kind of stock and bottom medal is that?
You have any better pics of the bolt and which patter did you go with, that's where i'm sending mine. Also what is T coat I have never heard of that.
How long did it take to get back?Just got mine back from LRI about a week ago. Went ahead and had them pull off the factory barrel as well. They’re fast and give updates through the process. Mines the A pattern standard helix. I planned on eventually cerakoting the whole action, but I’ve never heard of T coating. I’ll have to look into that as wellView attachment 7708869View attachment 7708870
If you were going to get it cerakoted LRI would be good for that. They coat the entire action inside and out. They hone the inside of the action so that you maintain clearances since cerakote adds thickness to the surface. Chad has shown the hone on a FB video before.Just got mine back from LRI about a week ago. Went ahead and had them pull off the factory barrel as well. They’re fast and give updates through the process. Mines the A pattern standard helix. I planned on eventually cerakoting the whole action, but I’ve never heard of T coating. I’ll have to look into that as wellView attachment 7708869View attachment 7708870
They received it on the 9th and shipping label was created to head back on the 14th. They had my factory barrel pulled within a couple hours of receiving the check-in update.How long did it take to get back?
I don’t have the new barrel yet for it but once I get that if I go cerakote I’ll probably send it back to them. This was my first time using them but definitely impressed with their work.If you were going to get it cerakoted LRI would be good for that. They coat the entire action inside and out. They hone the inside of the action so that you maintain clearances since cerakote adds thickness to the surface. Chad has shown the hone on a FB video before.
Birdsong is local to us here is one of the main reasons I use it. @Deep South Tactical can get you squared away if you have any questions about them. David coats all his Havoc actions in it. It's a smooth coating I quite like it. Springfield used to use it on their professional.T coat has me interested, as I want to send two or three bolts off to LRI but I am not sure if I want them cerakoted after or not - but I dont want any of them stainless anymore.
This is all I can find, and no real threads on it here. Mind expounding? https://black-t.com/applications/
You have any better pics of the bolt and which patter did you go with, that's where i'm sending mine. Also what is T coat I have never heard of that.
Stock is a Mesa Altitude and the DBM is atlasworxnice rifle, what kind of stock and bottom medal is that?
I had my Tikka CTR re-barreled with a Hawk Hill barrel and chambered in 6 Dasher over the winter by ICE rifles. He did an amazing job trueing up the face and chambering the barrel. It shoots better than I can. I like it in the KRG as it is a bit lighter than an MDT ACC. I changed the cheek pad to the more adjustable one but I am not sure it helps my shooting. I have fun trying though.
Not sure about LA bottom metal but the one I have had the same issue on my original TAC .308But I do still want to bump my original question - I know there are feeding issues with aftermarket LA bottom metal and AICS mags with the Tikka's.
Not sure about LA bottom metal but the one I have had the same issue on my original TAC .308
The real AICS mag lips are too long for Tikka action & force the bullet tip into the loading ramp before enough of the case has cleared the lips to allow the round to rise.
Simply cutting the lips back 10mm alleviates the issue & does not affect the mags use in other guns.
The MDT metal mags do not suffer the same problem in my experience.
YMMV