Looks great!Mine just got an upgrade courtesy of @thesmellyperro
Tikka T3X CTR .308
KRG X-Ray chassis, ARCA rail, extended mag release, and magazine
Bushnell Elite LRHSi 4.5-18x44 in Warne mount
Mountain Tactical trigger spring
Harris S-BRM 9-13 with S lock
SiCo brake/mount with F1 can
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T3X TAC A1
Proof CF drop in barrel, 6.5 CM
Elite Iron Bipod
S&B 5-25x56
RRS 240mm Arca (Not a simple drop in! The bolts must be trimmed to 12.27mm!!)
EWR 20 MOA Rail
LRI boron nitride bolt (not needed, but why not?)
Accushot Monopod
Proof CF drop in barrel, 6.5 CM
Elite Iron Bipod
S&B 5-25x56
RRS 240mm Arca (Not a simple drop in! The bolts must be trimmed to 12.27mm!!)
EWR 20 MOA Rail
LRI boron nitride bolt (not needed, but why not?)
Accushot Monopod
Finally got the time to put my new T3 together. Old 6.5x55 doner rifle received a new stainless Bergara 1/8 22-250 barrel. Barrelled action I sprayed Tac Gray Green and PSE Composites E-Lite carbon stock in Tac Black with Gray Green sponge. 20MOA rail and lightweight 6.5-20x50 Zeiss Conquest and Atlasworx AICS floor plate. Once setup with 75gr ELDM I hope to reach those longer range fox across the valleys.
edi
edi
How did that work out using a bergara barrel? Did you have to get the threads recut to fit a tikka?Finally got the time to put my new T3 together. Old 6.5x55 doner rifle received a new stainless Bergara 1/8 22-250 barrel. Barrelled action I sprayed Tac Gray Green and PSE Composites E-Lite carbon stock in Tac Black with Gray Green sponge. 20MOA rail and lightweight 6.5-20x50 Zeiss Conquest and Atlasworx AICS floor plate. Once setup with 75gr ELDM I hope to reach those longer range fox across the valleys.
edi
We get Bergara barrel blanks, which a riflesmith can fit to whatever rifle. The Barrels we get are made at Bergara in Spain so not too far from us, normally easier for us to get than other brands. These barrels don't have the best reputation but I wanted to chance one.
edi
This is a safe space for dumb Tikka questions, right?
Im wanting to play the 22 game with my Tikkas.
22 Creed or 22 GT or 22 ??
I’d like to choose something that will run in Tikka mags.
Suggestions?
I have Tikka mags and Hells Canyon mag.
Im wanting to play the 22 game with my Tikkas.
22 Creed or 22 GT or 22 ??
I’d like to choose something that will run in Tikka mags.
Suggestions?
I have Tikka mags and Hells Canyon mag.
Depends on your needs. I'm really interested myself in doing something similar. I want something between a 223 and a 22 creed. That leaves me with 22bra or 22 dasher. I suppose that for simplicity, I could say fuck it and do 22 creed since I have a ton of 6.5 brass already. When and if I do move forward on such a build, I'd like to do 18" to 20" barrel as I already have longer tube guns. Plus, I'd be suppressing so...
Agree, that said…my primary want is to go switch barrel, so keeping with my Tikka manners stock that is cut for Tikka bottom T3 Metal use my Tikka plastic mags.
I’m assuming this leaves me with the 22 Creed?
Hello all,
I recently just purchased my first bolt action. It’s a Tikka T3X CTR. I bought it used from a gentleman who got it years ago but never got around to shooting it much due to prioritizing life events.
I picked it up today and realized that he did what many others have done and tightened the dreaded mirage front screw. The first photo is the angle it looked like before. Perhaps this was also just a QC issue that some worker mistakenly torqued it down.
After I noticed this, i got my wheeler wrench and loosened it. The bend decreased a bit but it still exists. I would assume I have to decide between these three options:
-apply enough pressure/force to bend it back flat
-use the rail as is and my scope further back where there is no bend
-or replace it all together
lookinf for some perspective from owners who have experience with this. I would prefer to not replace it all together since I hear that requires a heat gun which I don’t have.
it’s not the end of the world as I got it for a great price so if I need to take it to a gunsmith and use the opportunity to install a 20MOA rail then so be it.
thanks in advance!
I recently just purchased my first bolt action. It’s a Tikka T3X CTR. I bought it used from a gentleman who got it years ago but never got around to shooting it much due to prioritizing life events.
I picked it up today and realized that he did what many others have done and tightened the dreaded mirage front screw. The first photo is the angle it looked like before. Perhaps this was also just a QC issue that some worker mistakenly torqued it down.
After I noticed this, i got my wheeler wrench and loosened it. The bend decreased a bit but it still exists. I would assume I have to decide between these three options:
-apply enough pressure/force to bend it back flat
-use the rail as is and my scope further back where there is no bend
-or replace it all together
lookinf for some perspective from owners who have experience with this. I would prefer to not replace it all together since I hear that requires a heat gun which I don’t have.
it’s not the end of the world as I got it for a great price so if I need to take it to a gunsmith and use the opportunity to install a 20MOA rail then so be it.
thanks in advance!
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Noted. I read a lot of people stripped their screws in the process of removing the rail on the CTR specifically.
I don’t have a heat gun so that means I’ll likely need to take it to a gunsmith for removal.
are there CTR specific rails or will any T3X rail do the trick?
The smith I’m going to said it should be a $20 job which I’m fine with. They have this 20MOA Leupold in stock which I was looking at. Will it work?
Get a new rail.
Another trick is to heat with a lighter or other heat source, then once a little bit warm, pour cup of cold water over it.
Twist the screw, and it should come out.
Or just take to the gunsmith.
Personally, I'd get a Tikka rail for it.
Buy good quality rings and glass, you'll get the most out of your rifle.
Another trick is to heat with a lighter or other heat source, then once a little bit warm, pour cup of cold water over it.
Twist the screw, and it should come out.
Or just take to the gunsmith.
Personally, I'd get a Tikka rail for it.
Buy good quality rings and glass, you'll get the most out of your rifle.
Thanks for the advice. The Leupold 20 MOA Mark 4 rail looks sturdy and a perfect fit for the action so im going to go with it.Get a new rail.
Another trick is to heat with a lighter or other heat source, then once a little bit warm, pour cup of cold water over it.
Twist the screw, and it should come out.
Or just take to the gunsmith.
Personally, I'd get a Tikka rail for it.
Buy good quality rings and glass, you'll get the most out of your rifle.
I’ll just use this as an opportunity to upgrade to a 20MOA base since I’m shooting 308 anyways
If you are not confident in getting the location of the hole exactly right drill it a bit oversized and use epoxy to take up the slack
Im kinda surprised that a rail made for the tikka didnt have the holes in it.
The 0 MOA warne rail for T3x that we compared it with didn’t have the holes either. Maybe it’s an issue that’s exclusive to the CTR?
Thanks, maybe it is just a European offering. We had three fitted including mine, two others went onto Remingtons. Years back we had a |Howa 243 fitted with a Bergara stainless barrel. She shot bad for the first 30 or so shots then tightened up very well.
If I had the choices you have in the states I would prefer Hawk Hill, Lilja or Bartlein.
edi
So you have replaced a high quality machined rail secured by epoxy and pins and screws with a cast rail that is higher, and only held down by a couple of screws
mmmm
Did you not see that the rail was bent? You were one of the folks that reccomended removing it to begin with. I bought a made in America high quality 20MOA rail base and had it professionally installed. Not sure what else I could have done
Had the Tac A1 with an IBI prefit barrel in 6.5 CM out at my 1200yrd spot. Not bad scenery up here. So much fun ringing steel at these distances. The plates are a 2/3 IPSC and a 9” plate.
Hello Folks,
I love Tikka rifles, have had a sporter in 308 that I bought used, it is 0.5MOA all day long. I recently bought a brand new T3 in 7mm rem mag. After taking it to the range and firing only 40 rounds out of it (factory Hornady stuff), I saw that my bolt face is quite pitted. Very strange. Please see the pics. My 308 that has had ~1500 rds through it and although it shows a faint ring on the bolt face, it is not pitted like this- and that's after 1,500 or so rounds.
I sent the rifle to Beretta back at the beginning of July, but they've not gotten to it yet (btw, when it comes to customer service, they could do a lot better job- good luck getting anyone on the phone!).
I'm thinking if factory ammo did this, then what can a hot reload do? I am looking to purchase a spare left hand bolt with magnum face, but it is difficult to find as Midwest gun works and Brownell's do not have one at this time.
In the meantime, have any of you had an experience like mine? What did you do? I would appreciate any feedback if you have had this problem.
Stay safe,
HK Shahidi
I love Tikka rifles, have had a sporter in 308 that I bought used, it is 0.5MOA all day long. I recently bought a brand new T3 in 7mm rem mag. After taking it to the range and firing only 40 rounds out of it (factory Hornady stuff), I saw that my bolt face is quite pitted. Very strange. Please see the pics. My 308 that has had ~1500 rds through it and although it shows a faint ring on the bolt face, it is not pitted like this- and that's after 1,500 or so rounds.
I sent the rifle to Beretta back at the beginning of July, but they've not gotten to it yet (btw, when it comes to customer service, they could do a lot better job- good luck getting anyone on the phone!).
I'm thinking if factory ammo did this, then what can a hot reload do? I am looking to purchase a spare left hand bolt with magnum face, but it is difficult to find as Midwest gun works and Brownell's do not have one at this time.
In the meantime, have any of you had an experience like mine? What did you do? I would appreciate any feedback if you have had this problem.
Stay safe,
HK Shahidi
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Mrmauser, was the speed very low or very high from those factory cartridges? Looks as if the primers did not seal well and hot gasses pissed past onto the bolt face.?? Just at a guess.
edi
edi
Something is not right, sometimes speed will tell you if you are in the right ball park. Anyway if any black comes out of the primer seal I would not use the ammo anymore. Wouldn't use the ammo anyway until you know what the reason for the damage on the bolt face is.
Got any pictures of the empties or pictures of the case head, new & fired?
edi
Despite what manufacturers claim, their QA standards can be poor.They also run some hot loads.
That's a lot of blowback on your bolt face.
Not the end of the world though.
Check the fired cases and primers for signs of overpressure.
If you are concerned about the bolt, take it to a reputable gunsmith.
What were you groups like?
That's a lot of blowback on your bolt face.
Not the end of the world though.
Check the fired cases and primers for signs of overpressure.
If you are concerned about the bolt, take it to a reputable gunsmith.
What were you groups like?
That's a pretty amazing place to shoot! Wish I had somewhere like that close.
For those interested, we just dropped out flat trigger shoes! They are made for your factory trigger pack, a very easy install and a nice upgrade to an already nice trigger! https://rustynutsdesigns.com/products/tikka-flat-trigger-shoe
*Chassis in 3rd picture is currently in development, hoping to be released by the end of the year!
*Chassis in 3rd picture is currently in development, hoping to be released by the end of the year!
SO........ I have a dilema, need some tikka advice.
I ordered a MCS EH-TK1 from manners in april when they first came out. Ive patiently waited for 6 1/2 months, I have ants in my pants and couldnt wait to get the invoice. It hasnt come yet, so I called to check on the stocks status yesterday. The guy said that its still probably 5-6 weeks out as they cannot find people who want to work, and are having trouble sourcing some materials. This sucks because I have been putting off sighting in a rifle I built because of the ammo shortage. I plan on just being patient with manners and waiting it out.
I shoot exclusively off of a tripod, and hunt coyotes at night.
In the mean time, is it worth it to order a Kalix Teknik CR1 cheek riser for my factory T3X stock for $145? Or just use the Tourbon chinese one someone gave me?
or Ive been eyeing the KRG Xray. Ive have tried a Bravo and the grip was way to big for me and AICS mags are a pain in the ass with the 22-250 round I shoot. I have one mag already that works well, but Id need another mag as a spare, $60. So, Id be in a chassis for $550 with a mag.
Has anyone shot a KRG Xray from a tripod and how is the bolt manipulation vs a bravo? The Bravo is big and clunky. The Xray has a 90 degree trigger pull which is what I prefer, and a smaller grip.
I also prefer the tikka factory plastic mags. They work well and I have a few.
What would you do?
Lend me some advice?
thanks!
I ordered a MCS EH-TK1 from manners in april when they first came out. Ive patiently waited for 6 1/2 months, I have ants in my pants and couldnt wait to get the invoice. It hasnt come yet, so I called to check on the stocks status yesterday. The guy said that its still probably 5-6 weeks out as they cannot find people who want to work, and are having trouble sourcing some materials. This sucks because I have been putting off sighting in a rifle I built because of the ammo shortage. I plan on just being patient with manners and waiting it out.
I shoot exclusively off of a tripod, and hunt coyotes at night.
In the mean time, is it worth it to order a Kalix Teknik CR1 cheek riser for my factory T3X stock for $145? Or just use the Tourbon chinese one someone gave me?
or Ive been eyeing the KRG Xray. Ive have tried a Bravo and the grip was way to big for me and AICS mags are a pain in the ass with the 22-250 round I shoot. I have one mag already that works well, but Id need another mag as a spare, $60. So, Id be in a chassis for $550 with a mag.
Has anyone shot a KRG Xray from a tripod and how is the bolt manipulation vs a bravo? The Bravo is big and clunky. The Xray has a 90 degree trigger pull which is what I prefer, and a smaller grip.
I also prefer the tikka factory plastic mags. They work well and I have a few.
What would you do?
Lend me some advice?
thanks!
I’ll put out a video this weekend, but the quick rundown of it:
Remove action from stock
Remove trigger pack from action
Remove adjustment screw, spring, and plunger for trigger
Punch out pivot pin and remove existing shoe
Install new shoe, punch pin back in
Reinstall plunger, spring, and adjustment screw
Reinstall trigger pack to action
Adjust trigger to your liking
Reinstall action in to stock/chassis
Personally, I wouldnt waste the money on another chassis to hold me over for a month and a half, unless I had another use for it once my primary chassis/stock came in.
Having said that, it sounds like you need to prioritize your needs. Is using factory mags a must? If so, KRG isn't what you want unless you're switching over to CTR mags, which is only available with the Bravo.
I say run what you have and be patient, or look for an inexpensive stock that uses factory DBM. FWIW, I have 3 Bravos and a Whiskey 3 and love them, I just don't think they fit your application, especially if you don't like the Bravo making CTR mags a non-option.
The bigger question IMHO is what to do with a tripod mount, ie if you are already using ARCA plate, thats fine you are all set.
Otherwise you would need a small arca plate, economy or DIY cheek riser, and Personally I would also suggest tikka vertical grip for any t3x shooting prs/prone/tripod etc. That all allows you to keep your OEM stock/Mags and the rifle serviceble until custom stock is finished.
As mentioned above, the KRG system was originally really setup to force you into AICS mags, and while the did offer CTR mag option evnetually, its only in the BRAVO. AFAIK the flagship w3 and the x-ray are still both AICS only.
