Tikka T3 Thread

[viking78]

First test at the range.
Great product and love the bolt throw.
It might be the grs bifrost stock or my grip. But the sterk seems a touch too low. Gets a little in the way of my Trigger finger when 90°.

Anyone else experience this?

I have a LARGE hand, i have the the problem with the Sterk swept bolt handle.
I did modified one, and that is lovely, but i have 2 other of those too.
Really love the model and the hot it look´s.
But it does not work so well with the big hand.
John, this is something you could take on the "custom" section on the orders.
Add 10$ AU fo the job, but make it as a custom job.
I have a size 12 hand, the Sterk bolt handle is so sweet, just lift the trigger hand a bit, and the bolt is open.
But if i could add the option of the angle, i could do a rase it a bit and put it a bit closer to the shooter.
So that it would not stay over to the trigger hand.
Overall Sterk quality is top notch.

 

[Wizzer]

Yes the Sterk handle is too low for me also. My finger pushes the handle up (open) somewhat. Nice product but I don't use it anymore.

 

[ma smith]

I really want the sweep bolt but have big paws

 

[LeftyJason]

How?
As far as I know, they still don't offer lefty's for tikka.

Locally/self/gunsmith modified.

 

[Blwxxzy]

Just curious, anyone tried to take the ball off the CTR Bolt handle

 

[patina]

Just cut my T3 CTR down to 16”.

 

[patina]

Dressed up

 

[R_Swanson]

Has anyone measured the differences between the Long and XL Bolt stops that Mountain Tactical sells? They dont really give out this info, its a PITA. They just answer questions on the page selling them, without giving any data/numbers - so you have to guess. From their answers I think the Long bolt stop gets you enough to load the max COAL in stock long action mags, and the XL is for AICS bottom metal conversions - but wanted to see if anyone here had some insight.

Thanks

 

[viking78]

New CTR 6.5PRC found it´s way to KRG X-Ray gen4 chassis.
Not sure do i even try to shoot it with the factory plastic stock.

 

[Graywolf.260]

New CTR 6.5PRC found it´s way to KRG X-Ray gen4 chassis.
Not sure do i even try to shoot it with the factory plastic stock.
View attachment 7768928

Which magazine are you using, how does it feed?

 

[viking78]

Which magazine are you using, how does it feed?

MDT AICS SA with out the binder plate.
I was a bit amazed the other day when i mounted that 6.5PRC on to the X-Ray, and load the mag with few dummy rounds.
Max COL ammo that magazine takes, is the same lenght as it for Hornady A-Tip 153gr bullet, 2.953 inch.
And it feed the mag straight to the chamber, but i did filed the magazine front wall from the inside a bit with round file, so that the case
neck wont bounce it.
5-round MDT AICS take´s 4 round and 10 rouder takes a 7 ammo.

 

[Th1nor]

So noticed my bolt giving heavy resistance after my last range day.
Only when the firing pin has been released. Going through the rifle and parts. I discovered what appears to be treads visible. Where i have not seen any before...

 

[trob]

So noticed my bolt giving heavy resistance after my last range day.
Only when the firing pin has been released. Going through the rifle and parts. I discovered what appears to be treads visible. Where i have not seen any before...

weird. Is your barrel hand tight?

 

[Th1nor]

weird. Is your barrel hand tight?

Barrel hand? Unknown term for me. Barrels seems tight, but looks like the chamber is pushed deeper?

 

[trob]

Barrel hand? Unknown term for me. Barrels seems tight, but looks like the chamber is pushed deeper?

i was asking if your barrel is becoming loose. Is your barrel ‘hand-tight’

 

[Th1nor]

i was asking if your barrel is becoming loose. Is your barrel ‘hand-tight’

That is what I am thinking.

I am unable to move it by hand.

 

[viking78]

First test with the 6.5PRC.
Ammo that is not close to the max lenght of the caliber, is working just fine from the MDT SA AICS magazine, but ammo with long pill´s
like Hornady A-Tip, it is not.
I had no feeding issues with 3 different Lapua bullet, only with the A-Tip.
But got quite impressing start with the A-Tip, though i got same result with 139gr Scenar.
Need to switch that single stage trigger to Midas, i have forgot how to shoot with that type, got 2-stage on 3 other T3 rifles.

 

[Th1nor]

Or there's no problem with your barrel at all and it's maybe an issue with your rifles cocking piece/ firing pin. Or heavy bolt lift on an uncocked T3 is normal because the action cocks on opening. And you just noticed it. Or you're shooting high pressure loads.

Things are pointing towards an issue with cocking/firing pin yes.
This is occurring during DRY Fire.
So pressure or ammo is not a issue.
Also had APX 3000 rounds through rifle before it became heavy. just after switching the bolt knob. Same problem with the original. As i have checked with both.

 

[Gee Kay]

cocking/decocking, same happens with mine
bet if you cycle the bolt without dropping the trigger it will feel smooth

 

[Th1nor]

cocking/decocking, same happens with mine
bet if you cycle the bolt without dropping the trigger it will feel smooth

That is correct, sir.
Just like it used to be all the time before.

 

[GBMaryland]

So noticed my bolt giving heavy resistance after my last range day.
Only when the firing pin has been released. Going through the rifle and parts. I discovered what appears to be treads visible. Where i have not seen any before...

So the answer to your question is that the T3X series of rifles, especially those in 308 and 6.5 Creedmoor experience heavy bolt lift when your ammunition is excessively hot.

The reason for this is because of the shorter throw range of the bolt compared to some of the other rifles out there.

What kind of ammunition were you shooting? Were they your own loads that you were working up for high velocity? Or were they hot factory ammunition?

If either of those are true then the issue is that it was hot ammunition… Otherwise I’ve seen the bolt start to stick as the action gets hot, with borderline hot ammunition.

Before they went out of business I had bought a fair amount of ammunition from spark… And all of their ammo is freaking hot. Absolutely wonderful SD and ES, but freaking hot. And that’s where I learned about the heavy bolt lift on this particular action.

 

[Th1nor]

So the answer to your question is that the T3X series of rifles, especially those in 308 and 6.5 Creedmoor experience heavy bolt lift when your ammunition is excessively hot.

The reason for this is because of the shorter throw range of the bolt compared to some of the other rifles out there.

What kind of ammunition were you shooting? Were they your own loads that you were working up for high velocity? Or were they hot factory ammunition?

If either of those are true then the issue is that it was hot ammunition… Otherwise I’ve seen the bolt start to stick as the action gets hot, with borderline hot ammunition.

Before they went out of business I had bought a fair amount of ammunition from spark… And all of their ammo is freaking hot. Absolutely wonderful SD and ES, but freaking hot. And that’s where I learned about the heavy bolt lift on this particular action.

Thanks for your input.

Unfortunately you seem to have missed the post. We're i wrote that it happens with DRY Fire.
And before installing the new bolt knob. I had 3000+ rounds with out this issue.

Been recommended examination of bolt and firing pin. Polish any bumps. And see.

 

[bgremill]

I just received a Sterk left handed swept bolt and it hits my trigger finger as well. Lisa from Tactical Works sent an email to John asking if there was something we can do. It was Christmas Eve so I’ll give it a bit. Bolt is awesome, I really hope he can tweek it just a bit.

 

[boomslang]

I’ve been browsing this thread for some time now and felt joining the T3x club has been long overdue. Went back and forth between the CTR, Tac A1 and Varmint models to the point it was becoming exhausting. In the end, I decided on the Varmint in 6.5 cm. Not going to be a hunting rifle, so the little extra weight from the heavy barrel isn’t of concern. Main function will be shooting steel out to ~1300 yds. Now looking at different chassis options for the T3x, but I’ll most likely end up going with another W3 like my R700P did since it’s solid, familiar and fit me well. I’m really looking forward to seeing how the Tikka performs once I get it all put together.

 

[ma smith]

...I discovered what appears to be treads visible. Where i have not seen any before...

Is nobody going to mention the defect along the boundary? See pic related...

 

[cannoncrossfire]

I just received a Sterk left handed swept bolt and it hits my trigger finger as well. Lisa from Tactical Works sent an email to John asking if there was something we can do. It was Christmas Eve so I’ll give it a bit. Bolt is awesome, I really hope he can tweek it just a bit.

For people having the handle hit their finger - if it's annoying you that much - it's not the handle for you, to put it simply. The variety of rifle stocks/chassis/grips plus the variety of user hand and finger sizes means it's not 1 size fits all. The GRS stocks have a massive grip and I do not recommend them in combination with the swept handle because it pushes your hand toward the handle more. There's only 70degrees of bolt lift, so if the handle is bent upward then you'll have complaints about hitting your scope - especially when using a larger zoom ring lever. All handles are bent in a jig for consistency, and it's not an option to ship it to me in Australia, bend it randomly hoping it'll be ok, re-cerakote 1 handle, ship it back.
You're welcome to bend it or have a gunsmith customise it for you, it's yours to do what you like with. There are other Sterk handles available if the swept one doesn't suit, and obviously other manufacturers make handles too - perhaps try the anarchy swept copy and if it touches your finger maybe they'd do a custom one-off?

 

[ma smith]

AI and Anchutz run 60 degree actions with swept handles.

That being said, nobody should feel entitled to a custom handle.

I think people were suggesting a different SKU be added at some stage, to make more sales, cause everyone wants to love this product.

I have rimfire and centrefire Tikka would love sweep handles. That work with 10-12 glove sizes.

What are thoughts on TRG style handles, 60 with some back angle but not really a sweep?

Either way thanks for looking out. Happy new year.

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

I’ve been browsing this thread for some time now and felt joining the T3x club has been long overdue. Went back and forth between the CTR, Tac A1 and Varmint models to the point it was becoming exhausting. In the end, I decided on the Varmint in 6.5 cm. Not going to be a hunting rifle, so the little extra weight from the heavy barrel isn’t of concern. Main function will be shooting steel out to ~1300 yds. Now looking at different chassis options for the T3x, but I’ll most likely end up going with another W3 like my R700P did since it’s solid, familiar and fit me well. I’m really looking forward to seeing how the Tikka performs once I get it all put together.

@boomslang , I think you'll be more than happy with it.
So many stocks/chassis to choose from.
I run a GRS Bifrost on mine, and it is very comfortable.
Enjoy!

 

[srt-4_uk]

Things are pointing towards an issue with cocking/firing pin yes.
This is occurring during DRY Fire.
So pressure or ammo is not a issue.
Also had APX 3000 rounds through rifle before it became heavy. just after switching the bolt knob. Same problem with the original. As i have checked with both.

Ive had the problem before. It was an assembly error on my part when swapping the bolt handle.

 

[bgremill]

For people having the handle hit their finger - if it's annoying you that much - it's not the handle for you, to put it simply. The variety of rifle stocks/chassis/grips plus the variety of user hand and finger sizes means it's not 1 size fits all. The GRS stocks have a massive grip and I do not recommend them in combination with the swept handle because it pushes your hand toward the handle more. There's only 70degrees of bolt lift, so if the handle is bent upward then you'll have complaints about hitting your scope - especially when using a larger zoom ring lever. All handles are bent in a jig for consistency, and it's not an option to ship it to me in Australia, bend it randomly hoping it'll be ok, re-cerakote 1 handle, ship it back.
You're welcome to bend it or have a gunsmith customise it for you, it's yours to do what you like with. There are other Sterk handles available if the swept one doesn't suit, and obviously other manufacturers make handles too - perhaps try the anarchy swept copy and if it touches your finger maybe they'd do a custom one-off?

Using an MDT chassis not GRS. Not interested in shipping a $60 bolt handle to Australia either. My reference to tweak it was give you some feedback so we could have a handle that is usable, maybe a slightly different SKU that worked with other chassis, not asking for some snowflake treatment. Thanks for letting me know that it’s mine to do what I want with. That helps.

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

Some people live their life taking offence.
It's Christmas, may they find a "Safe Space" for the New Year.

 

[R_Swanson]

Has anyone measured the differences between the Long and XL Bolt stops that Mountain Tactical sells? They dont really give out this info, its a PITA. They just answer questions on the page selling them, without giving any data/numbers - so you have to guess. From their answers I think the Long bolt stop gets you enough to load the max COAL in stock long action mags, and the XL is for AICS bottom metal conversions - but wanted to see if anyone here had some insight.

Thanks

Bumping this again for anyone that has tried them.

 

[bgremill]

Boo this man

Bumping this again for anyone that has tried them.

Sorry, I have not tried the bolt stops from them.

 

[Th1nor]

Ive had the problem before. It was an assembly error on my part when swapping the bolt handle.

Yeah could be.
Cleaned bolt, firing pin assembly and shroud with acetone. Then polished with steel wool. Dry fire runs smoothly now.
Gotta get some range time to verify all good .

Still wonder about those treads by the chamber. Seems nobody else i talked to has them

 

[viking78]

I have big hands and unfortunately the Sterk swept is not for me. Unfortunate because it's a nice product and the gentleman that owns the business seems to be a class act. I am able to use the everglades swept handle pretty comfortably though. Finish isn't quite as nice but I am happy with it. If you're big ass knuckle is hitting the Sterk, try the everglades

That handle can be modified, i have done that.
You need a gas torch to heat the metal on the handle swept area, then carefully bend it to the way you want, i did straighten it slightly, and now it is perfect.
Need to do this for the 2 other swept handle too, only thing you loose the cerakote, but that can be redone.
Mod Sterk Swept on the left.
Once you do that, it is one bad ass handle, just love it, and the look of it.

 

[Graywolf.260]

That handle can be modified, i have done that.
You need a gas torch to heat the metal on the handle swept area, then carefully bend it to the way you want, i did straighten it slightly, and now it is perfect.
Need to do this for the 2 other swept handle too, only thing you loose the cerakote, but that can be redone.
Mod Sterk Swept on the left.
Once you do that, it is one bad ass handle, just love it, and the look of it.

The Sterk swept ball fits great for me. I wish he’d make one for the TRG. Sounds like it’d be a project to get the timing perfect. I’d be afraid to put a torch to it.

 

[ma smith]

Regardless of the size of hand, the position of the bolt knob on the rifle looks improved (vis a vis the trigger position).

The $64k question is what negative effects (if any) present when the bolt handle is at its apex relative to the scope.

In any event much respect to those involved...

 

[white_rushin]

Can anyone help me ID if this is rust on my tikka bolt?

I have never dealt with rusting before. I am on family trip that took 15 hours to get to Idaho. There was snow and rain throughout. We had to leave the bags in the car overnight and it was 20 degrees.

My gun bags were supposed to be in a weatherproof type bag but I noticed a bit of surface rust on the outside of my Tikka barrel and a bit on the steel Leupold scope base.

I used CLP to get off what I could and plan on using 0000 steel wool in the next day or two to remove what remains. The rifle is coated in CLP for safety now. Lesson learned.

I wanted to see if this bolt face/extractor is rusted as well since it has that color? I couldn’t get it off as of now and can’t remember if that is always the color of it.

FWIW my AR didn’t get any rust on it whatsoever during the trip outside of a QD sling swivel so I am thankful for that.

Since this rusting started am I destined to be fighting rust off of it from here on out?

Looking for thoughts, opinions, and guidance moving forward.

 

[R_Swanson]

View attachment 7770993Can anyone help me ID if this is rust on my tikka bolt?

I have never dealt with rusting before. I am on family trip that took 15 hours to get to Idaho. There was snow and rain throughout. We had to leave the bags in the car overnight and it was 20 degrees.

My gun bags were supposed to be in a weatherproof type bag but I noticed a bit of surface rust on the outside of my Tikka barrel and a bit on the steel Leupold scope base.

I used CLP to get off what I could and plan on using 0000 steel wool in the next day or two to remove what remains. The rifle is coated in CLP for safety now. Lesson learned.

I wanted to see if this bolt face/extractor is rusted as well since it has that color? I couldn’t get it off as of now and can’t remember if that is always the color of it.

FWIW my AR didn’t get any rust on it whatsoever during the trip outside of a QD sling swivel so I am thankful for that.

Since this rusting started am I destined to be fighting rust off of it from here on out?

Looking for thoughts, opinions, and guidance moving forward.

Its normal, all 4 of the extractors on my Tikka bolts look like that.

 

[ma smith]

Are you getting any colour on a white rag when you wipe it down? If not is fine...

FYI, if you have aftermarket pic rail...check under (ie remove) your pic rail unless its full epoxy bedded...you may have water between action and rail...

Good luck.

 

[white_rushin]

Its normal, all 4 of the extractors on my Tikka bolts look like that.

Thanks for the confirmation on that. Extra peace of mind since I just put it together

 

[white_rushin]

Are you getting any colour on a white rag when you wipe it down? If not is fine...

FYI, if you have aftermarket pic rail...check under (ie remove) your pic rail unless its full epoxy bedded...you may have water between action and rail...

Good luck.

No color so far. I’ll see if there are any different results once I use the steel wool. It was all very minor so I’m over exaggerating how bad it was most likely.

I’ll do a full disassembly including removing the action from the KRG to make sure there’s no rust on the underside as well once I get back from the trip

 

[D_TROS]

UBR trying to make weight for the NRL hunter factory class.

 

[R_Swanson]

UBR trying to make weight for the NRL hunter factory class.


View attachment 7771020

Hey - the Tikka deserves the new, fancy XTR3 you're testing, no?

 

[bgremill]

Boo this man

Bumping this again for anyone that has tried them.

SorryI have not tried the bolt stops from them.

UBR trying to make weight for the NRL hunter factory class.


View attachment 7771020

nice! What does it weigh?

 

[R_Swanson]

Has anyone measured the differences between the Long and XL Bolt stops that Mountain Tactical sells? They dont really give out this info, its a PITA. They just answer questions on the page selling them, without giving any data/numbers - so you have to guess. From their answers I think the Long bolt stop gets you enough to load the max COAL in stock long action mags, and the XL is for AICS bottom metal conversions - but wanted to see if anyone here had some insight.

Thanks

In case anyone in the future searches - talked to Mountain Tactical today. The long bolt stop will get you ~3.4 COAL. The XL is for AICS bottom metal conversions.

 

[white_rushin]

Hello all, it’s the rust guy again, back with another question. I took a look at the bore where I could and found some discoloration. Do you all suspect it’s copper fouling or rust?

 

[Graywolf.260]

KRG/TRG mashup. I put a W3 folder on my TRG-22 and used the leftover TRG buttstock on a bravo forend with a 260 varmint action.

 

[GrumpyOleFart]

Hello all, it’s the rust guy again, back with another question. I took a look at the bore where I could and found some discoloration. Do you all suspect it’s copper fouling or rust?

View attachment 7771378

Clean that rifle, oil it lightly, then dry rag it, then lightly oil for storage and dry rag before next session.
Use "Damp Rid" or some other crystals to soak up humidity from your gun safe.

 

[D_TROS]

Hey - the Tikka deserves the new, fancy XTR3 you're testing, no?

If I cant make weight with my 3-18, I will be using the new scope and not using a bipod...should be fun.

nice! What does it weigh?

I just put a 10" arca rail on it. Maybe shouldnt have. Bare rifle with brake and rail is 8 lb 6 oz. I ordered a new lightweight double pull MDT bipod so gotta wait to see what it weighs then decide on which scope to use. I have a 3-15 scope that weighs 1lb 10 oz with rings I may have to use... the 3-18 with rings is over 2 lbs...leaving less than 1.5 lb for bipod to make the 12 lb limit. should be fun.


Regards
DT