Tikka T3 Thread

I just got a Super Varmint in 223 to fool around with. Took it out tonight. First time I’ve shot a Tikka.

Holy smokes is that thing smooth.

But I had some light primer strikes on M855 green tip. Just using it to sight it in before I used better stuff. No problems with the better stuff (77gr TMK, forgot the brand).

Hmmmm…

Light strikes below:
56C9BDEE-E14F-44E0-8E00-4D0A8FA6245F.jpeg


Here are some successfully fired cases
6DC2AB4E-854F-46DB-9FA4-8C13CC763C32.jpeg

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One of each compared
572591A4-E8B4-4FF7-B1B0-CFE4374140F6.jpeg
 
I just got a Super Varmint in 223 to fool around with. Took it out tonight. First time I’ve shot a Tikka.

Holy smokes is that thing smooth.

But I had some light primer strikes on M855 green tip. Just using it to sight it in before I used better stuff. No problems with the better stuff (77gr TMK, forgot the brand).

Hmmmm…

Light strikes below:
View attachment 7997855

Here are some successfully fired cases
View attachment 7997856
View attachment 7997857

One of each compared
View attachment 7997858
 
Is a factory t3x lite barrel thick enough to thread for a muzzle brake?
With a 9/16? Sorta. Sent mine off to Thunderbeast to have them put a face mount brake on it. Uses the face of the muzzle as the shoulder.
20211010_124725.jpg

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1/2-28 has less than 0.100" wall thickness that isn't recommended by any respected gunsmith that I've seen.

Some measurements for reference.
Starting from muzzle.
Diameter, distance back from muzzle, OAL
.616 0 (24.33)
.620 1.358 (23)
.630 2.57 (21.75)
.640 3.81 (20.5)
.650 5.05 (19.25)
.660 6.27 (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 6.625 (17.7)
0.673 8.08 (16.25)
Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 (9.33)
 
Ah ha! Thanks man. I did just disassemble the bolt and wipe a ton of black grease out of the bolt and firing pin. But I’ve already reassembled the thing.

I’m going to have go into the bolt again and follow the tips in the video. I should’ve checked back on this forum before I started!

Thanks again.
I did the exact same thing, I cleaned my bolt and then found this video. Had to disassemble again. I guess it makes for good practice.
 
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Recently picked up a Tikkia T3X Tac A1 in 6.5 creedmoor. Added a Primary Arms GLX 4-16X50 ACSS Apollo scope, Elay Precision reduced trigger spring, Magpul bipod and YHM QD brake with Phantom suppressor. This build is on a budget so I can enjoy shooting it now and upgrade it as I go along.

I haven't shot a precision rifle in about 10 years but this one has impressed me so far. The action is smooth, and after sighting it in, I was getting 1/4" - 5/8" MOA groups. I need more practice behind the rifle but I'm very happy with it.
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Damn Tikka got me hooked.

Picked up a 6.5c T3x Lite Roughtech, chopped it down to 20” for suppressed hunting, and it shot so well (~1/3 MOA), I decided to invest in a nicer stock for it to build into my dream hunting gun. Went with a Mesa Precision Altitude - hopefully have that in my hands next week.

Meanwhile, that rifle got me interested in doing some more bench shooting and practice, so I have a Super Varmint 223 on the way that’ll go into a Bravo.

Its been an expensive few weeks, but I’m super stoked.
 
Damn Tikka got me hooked.

Picked up a 6.5c T3x Lite Roughtech, chopped it down to 20” for suppressed hunting, and it shot so well (~1/3 MOA), I decided to invest in a nicer stock for it to build into my dream hunting gun. Went with a Mesa Precision Altitude - hopefully have that in my hands next week.

Meanwhile, that rifle got me interested in doing some more bench shooting and practice, so I have a Super Varmint 223 on the way that’ll go into a Bravo.

Its been an expensive few weeks, but I’m super stoked.
What color did you choose?
 
Got both rifles assembled. The hunting rig is waiting on a set of Talley direct mount rings and level, will probably Devcon bed it. The trainer just needs paint.

T3x Lite Roughtech - 6.5 Creedmoor, barrel cut to 20”, Mesa Precision / AG Altitude stock, Vortex LHT 3-15 - 8.5lbs

CB97DB6C-2B77-4AFD-9FCF-2D661CA7D4C0.jpeg


T3x Super Varmint -.223 Rem, 24”, KRG Bravo in grey, Vortex SE 5-25, Sawtooth ARCA rail, AO bolt knob and handle, trigger mod to 12oz/20oz - 12.5lbs

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Hey all. Just joined the forum finally, after many years of reading things here. Glad to finally be here. I'm shooting a Tikka T3X Tac A1 in 6.5cm with a Leupold Mark 5 HD 7-35 x56 and a Griffin Armament Recce 7 suppressor. Been hunting/shooting for year, but just got into long range shooting on a serious type level in the past few years. Love my Tikka. Shoots as good as I'll ever be able to. I am ordering a new chassis for it, but otherwise couldn't be happier with it.

I just got back a few weeks ago from New Mexico after spending a week there with Colorado Precision Rifle in two of their classes. I enjoyed it immensely and learned a lot, even with the experience I already had. Brian and Andy are great teachers and the price is more than competitive. I strongly recommend them if you're looking for long-range classes ranging from the basics to the advanced. Anyway, glad to be here. Here are a few pics.
CPR class PR2.jpg
me with tikka.jpeg
 
... I'm shooting a Tikka T3X Tac A1 in 6.5cm with a Leupold Mark 5 HD 7-35 x56 and a Griffin Armament Recce 7 suppressor. Been hunting/shooting for year, but just got into long range shooting on a serious type level in the past few years. Love my Tikka. Shoots as good as I'll ever be able to. I am ordering a new chassis for it, but otherwise couldn't be happier with it.
...
What chassis are you thinking of, and why?
I don't have a bolt action now and Tikka T3X Tac A1 looks like a good choice, especially bang for buck, unless a new stock/chassis will be preferred.
 
What chassis are you thinking of, and why?
I don't have a bolt action now and Tikka T3X Tac A1 looks like a good choice, especially bang for buck, unless a new stock/chassis will be preferred.
There's nothing wrong with the original chassis, per se, and I agree that it's the best bang for your buck. I just wanted a more customizable one. Like a butt stock where I can adjust the length of pull with a dial instead of having to add spacers. Also want an arca rail, and although I could add one, I want on built into the chassis already. Little things like that. Original one is very serviceable though and has served me well for the past 6 months or so. I'm getting an XLR Element 4 to replace it.
 
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A while back - several years ago, someone posted a method for modifying CTR Bottom metal to accept AICS magazines.
I know that the latch will have to be changed, but the magazine opening in the bottom metal is pretty close in length to making it work.
I have a vertical mill and making the mag box fit isn't a problem.
I'm embarking on a 6mm Creedmoor build for my GF and I need to get a short LOP stock and one of the options is CTR Bottom Metal Inlet.
I have a spare CTR bottom metal and lots of AICS mags, so I would like to modify what I have vs. buying CTR Mags.
This stock may get a .223 barreled action as well, which would require buying more CTR Mags to make that work.
A lot of the options for CTR / AICS bottom metal are out of stock right now as well...
 
A while back - several years ago, someone posted a method for modifying CTR Bottom metal to accept AICS magazines.
I know that the latch will have to be changed, but the magazine opening in the bottom metal is pretty close in length to making it work.
I have a vertical mill and making the mag box fit isn't a problem.
I'm embarking on a 6mm Creedmoor build for my GF and I need to get a short LOP stock and one of the options is CTR Bottom Metal Inlet.
I have a spare CTR bottom metal and lots of AICS mags, so I would like to modify what I have vs. buying CTR Mags.
This stock may get a .223 barreled action as well, which would require buying more CTR Mags to make that work.
A lot of the options for CTR / AICS bottom metal are out of stock right now as well...
Checked Atlasworx yet? https://atlasworxs.com/shop/atlaswo...aics-tikka-t3-t3x-ctr-compact-tactical-rifle/

edi
 
A while back - several years ago, someone posted a method for modifying CTR Bottom metal to accept AICS magazines.
I know that the latch will have to be changed, but the magazine opening in the bottom metal is pretty close in length to making it work.
I have a vertical mill and making the mag box fit isn't a problem.
I'm embarking on a 6mm Creedmoor build for my GF and I need to get a short LOP stock and one of the options is CTR Bottom Metal Inlet.
I have a spare CTR bottom metal and lots of AICS mags, so I would like to modify what I have vs. buying CTR Mags.
This stock may get a .223 barreled action as well, which would require buying more CTR Mags to make that work.
A lot of the options for CTR / AICS bottom metal are out of stock right now as well...
Find a tikka compact stock, open up the bottom to run ctr bottom metal. Will also need open up barrel channel to your new dimension. The ctr mags are quite good. Idk what the length of the 223 ctr mags is, but the accurate 223 mags are excellent. So opening the stock up for an aics dbm may be best route if you're perusing 223 and 6cm. The compact stock still takes the different grips like the ctr version. I had given a compact 65cm to my nephew as he grew I put the action into full sized tikka stock. I unfortunately sold the compact version with LOP spacers.
 
Did you have modify them? I’m having occasional jams when rounds creep forward and get stuck under the front lip. I made a spacer and shortened the follower to eliminate the gap. Worked well in one test session at the range.

View attachment 8008072

View attachment 8008073
My pair of accurate mags have had the front lip removed for max coal, you can remove the rear spacer line as well and fill it with some jb weld and recut with a mill giving 2.6 coal, 2.55 with front lip mod.
 
Find a tikka compact stock, open up the bottom to run ctr bottom metal. Will also need open up barrel channel to your new dimension. The ctr mags are quite good. Idk what the length of the 223 ctr mags is, but the accurate 223 mags are excellent. So opening the stock up for an aics dbm may be best route if you're perusing 223 and 6cm. The compact stock still takes the different grips like the ctr version. I had given a compact 65cm to my nephew as he grew I put the action into full sized tikka stock. I unfortunately sold the compact version with LOP spacers.
We ordered a Boyd's Pro Varmint with pillar bedding and an adjustable cheekrest and a 12 3/4" LOP on Friday, so barring any weird issues, I should have it in hand a couple of weeks before Christmas. This new stock will be inletted for CTR Bottom Metal ( Which I have ) but I was hoping that someone had modified the OEM CTR Metal for AICS Mags in the past so that I wasn't A) Having to modify them on my own B) That I wasn't buying another set of bottom metal and laying out approx $ 200 with tax & Shipping.
 
Just a question - what do you think about step by step transformation of stock Tikka to more lightweight yet precise and accurate shooting Tikka by replacing the stock for beginning and then rebarelling it?
Another build of one of our customers, he's really enjoying it and said that he doesn't even need adjustable comb for use with the scope.

mt30_3-jpg.7993516
 
Just a question - what do you think about step by step transformation of stock Tikka to more lightweight yet precise and accurate shooting Tikka by replacing the stock for beginning and then rebarelling it?
Another build of one of our customers, he's really enjoying it and said that he doesn't even need adjustable comb for use with the scope.

mt30_3-jpg.7993516
I will follow that build.Stock looks nice.
 
A Tikka is hard hard to get much lighter. The factory stock bottom plastic and magazine in only like 32-33oz. Factory barrel contours are quite light. Yeah you can switch to a Ti bolt handle, Ti recoil lug, Ti bolt shroud and maybe drop a few oz with a stock that doubles or triples the cost the rifle. If you're chasing ultimate lightweight you're better off starting with a ti receiver from Pierce, run a short carbon or #2 steel barrel, bdl magazine, and one the several stock options available in the 25oz range.
 
Just a question - what do you think about step by step transformation of stock Tikka to more lightweight yet precise and accurate shooting Tikka by replacing the stock for beginning and then rebarelling it?
The factory stock is already light. Why rebarrel when the factory barrels are great for their weight?

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My cerakoted Super Varmint action is not as smooth as my other Tikka. Has anyone smoothed out a jittery Tikka action? Any tips on methods? Hand polishing? Polishing compound on the rails and work the bolt back and forth (not on the back of the lugs obviously)?
 
Have you fired any rounds thru the rifle??? Can you see some type of ruff area, curious as to where the problem lies…Thanks..
I've probably got ~200 rounds through it. I can see some faint chatter from the machining operations inside the receiver that I don’t have on my other gun (hunting rig with <100 rounds through it).

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I've probably got ~200 rounds through it. I can see some faint chatter from the machining operations inside the receiver that I don’t have on my other gun (hunting rig with <100 rounds through it).

View attachment 8014575
That is not how either one of mine looks, 500 rounds on one rifle, 270 on the other. I would talk to Tikka; they might have a recall or would maybe send you another unit. Perhaps one of these members will chime in, I am considering that model, so I will watch this for a bit. If you talk to Tikka, please post results. [CTR223. tx3, 22-250]
 
I've probably got ~200 rounds through it. I can see some faint chatter from the machining operations inside the receiver that I don’t have on my other gun (hunting rig with <100 rounds through it).

View attachment 8014575
Yeah that's a big problem. I've personally owned 6 tikkas and shot or load developed 4-6 more. None had tooling like that in the top the action. I would definitely give Beretta customer service a call. They're a pain in the ass and will drag their feet the entire way, just suck at their job. Usually tikkas are worry free and good to go at the start, but this is one those rare situations where it pays to go over a rifle with a fine tooth comb prior to accepting it from the dealer.
 
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Figured I would check on here to see if anyone in the know has info on when Tikka sporter guns will be imported to the US/available again? I've tried calling Beretta but that was a waste of time. I also spoke with Eurooptic. They were helpful but didn't have any info. Hoping someone on here might have info.
 
Figured I would check on here to see if anyone in the know has info on when Tikka sporter guns will be imported to the US/available again? I've tried calling Beretta but that was a waste of time. I also spoke with Eurooptic. They were helpful but didn't have any info. Hoping someone on here might have info.
What caliber are you looking for? They’re out there.
 
I've probably got ~200 rounds through it. I can see some faint chatter from the machining operations inside the receiver that I don’t have on my other gun (hunting rig with <100 rounds through it).

View attachment 8014575
Not normal.
I picked up a .30/06 Lite this afternoon and checked it before doing the NICS Check, at it was as smooth as all of my other Tikka Rifles.
 
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I've probably got ~200 rounds through it. I can see some faint chatter from the machining operations inside the receiver that I don’t have on my other gun (hunting rig with <100 rounds through it).

View attachment 8014575
I recently purchased and received a Super Varmint in .308 and it appears to have the same kinds of markings. I can’t feel them when I run my finger over them and haven’t noticed anything wonky or jittery with the bolt. I attached a pic of the inside of my action.

This is my first Tikka (well bolt action as well) so I don’t have anything to have compared it to.

Only issue I’ve had with mine is the plastic 5rd mag it came with doesn’t work. Bolt runs over the top of the cartridge, even after adjusting it so the cap is above the lip of the mag. Not sure what changes need to be made to the mag or what to look at troubleshooting to try to resolve it.
 

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Only issue I’ve had with mine is the plastic 5rd mag it came with doesn’t work. Bolt runs over the top of the cartridge, even after adjusting it so the cap is above the lip of the mag. Not sure what changes need to be made to the mag or what to look at troubleshooting to try to resolve it.
Check and make sure you're action is fully seated on your recoil lug.
They can be a tight fit sometimes and need to be rocked back and forth to get them to fully seat into the notch.
 
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Finally, received the Krieger blank on Monday.
Today i did send these 2 barrels to a gunsmith, should be ready in January.
Krieger is 28" 1/8" M24, it will be as long as it can be, about 27".
Carbonsix is Bull 24" 1/8".
Weight on the Krieger was about 3,05kg and Carbonsix 1,55kg, so i might use this carbon wrapped barrel more on hunting use.
Will see how they shoot when i get these.
Both will be .260rem, like the factory pipe was.
260rem 1.jpg


260rem 2.jpg