Tikka T3 Thread

It's kind of ironic that we are trying to give European shit about the metric system when we're all over here using MRAD scopes and calling MOA users fudds, lol. And then on top of that, we're F'n ing it up by using MRAD scopes in ... yards 🤣
MRAD is not really "metric", as we still use radians for math too. Even MOA is not standard as it's just a measure of a degree.
 
It's kind of ironic that we are trying to give European shit about the metric system when we're all over here using MRAD scopes and calling MOA users fudds, lol. And then on top of that, we're F'n ing it up by using MRAD scopes in ... yards 🤣
Except mrad is pi/6280. Moa is pi/10800. A circle is 2pi or 6.28318.... Math wise says mrad makes more sense with all units of measure. Finishing up a Trig class this semester.

1mil is 1 squirrel ball at 1000 squirrel balls away. That's wisdom from one of the mil moa threads. It's also 1 sheet of paper thick at 2 reams.
 
Back to the subject of tikkas.

Can somebody check my calculating?

Doing my research to buy things later on. I think I want an m-brace mount for my Razor 2 4.5-27. When I eventually rebarrel I want to be ready. Currently have 21mil up from zero on scope. Looks like I could have a 20moa mount on top of my 20moa rail. That would give another 5.8 mils of usable. Have I used anywhere near that yet? No. But if it's the same price for the mount why not?

Measurements I have.
Objective 65mm
Cap thickness ? Why don't manufacturers list measurements.
Mount height 32mm/ 1.26" (I think should work)
Front of rail to top of action 9.4mm
Currently have a lite barrel so can't get the other measurement.

Thinking of going closer to a ctr ish contour later.

Measurements in metric since ring height calculators that I have seen have it that way. It's just a button away on my mitutoyo calipers.

TLDR. Does 40moa total work with a Razor g2 in a 1.26" arc m-brace on a ctr ish contour barrel with caps?
 
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When I was a kid living in South Africa the country changed from Imperial to metric, all roads signs were changed to km. Late 90's living in Ireland the same thing happened again. Road signs were changed from miles to km. I learned to work with both systems as I went to schools on three continents. Certain things only make sense in inches.
edi
 
MRAD is not really "metric", as we still use radians for math too. Even MOA is not standard as it's just a measure of a degree.
For me, MRAD is 1cm click scope at 100m, and i like to call it a metric.
1 cm at 100 meters which equals 10 mm/100 m = 1/10 mrad.
MOA can be metric too, if you use it as 1 clikc is 7mm at 100-meters, but round number as 10mm equal 0.1 MRAD is easier to use.
Wikishit of MRAD.

 
A couple questions for folks.

1) Does anyone know if a TRG stock spacer will fit on a CTR stock?

I want to buy the upward sloping spacer to get the buttpad at a 90 degree angle.

2) Has anyone 3d printed a grip to fit the CTR stock to have a more vertical angle, palm swell, and get a closer trigger reach?

Obviously, I’m not looking to create some expensive add-ons since I could just get a KRG Bravo. I like hunting with the regular stock, but I want a little more ergonomics.

I may need to contact @Tyler Kemp to see if he can 3d print one (actually I did email about #2, but not #1).
Always happy to do what I can :)
 
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Almost done with this project. Got it back from the smith yesterday. Just need bedding and cerakote. Tikka stainless magnum action, mountain tactical bottom metal and billet LA mag, benchmark ibex carbon stock, benchmark carbon 22” barrel, piercision titanium brake, cambered in 7 saum.
 
Just a question - what do you think about step by step transformation of stock Tikka to more lightweight yet precise and accurate shooting Tikka by replacing the stock for beginning and then rebarelling it?
Another build of one of our customers, he's really enjoying it and said that he doesn't even need adjustable comb for use with the scope.

mt30_3-jpg.7993516
Dang that’s a gorgeous stock!
 
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Thinking of rebarreling my T3x, but I don't really know who I'd send it off to. Additionally, all the barrels seem to be pretty expensive (like $650+ or just out of stock). How do you guys rebarrel? Yourself, or send it off to a gunsmith? Are the Tikka barrel nut systems any good?

Honestly considering just buying a new CTR and selling my old one to somebody who wants to recycle the action or something.
 
Thinking of rebarreling my T3x, but I don't really know who I'd send it off to. Additionally, all the barrels seem to be pretty expensive (like $650+ or just out of stock). How do you guys rebarrel? Yourself, or send it off to a gunsmith? Are the Tikka barrel nut systems any good?

Honestly considering just buying a new CTR and selling my old one to somebody who wants to recycle the action or something.

The biggest issue with factory Tikka barrels is removing them. The 3 barrels that I have removed have been tight and have required heat from a MAP gas torch to come loose ( I didn't get them that hot )
Once the barrel is off, clean the internal threads and install your new barrel with a "GO" Gauge. I have Aeroshell grease for AR-15's so I use that as thread lubricant and have used ARP Thread Lube paste in the past with good luck.
I have an X-Caliber .223 Wilde chambered barrel that uses a barrel nut and it's fine.
 
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I was admiring a TAC A1 the other day and noticed the brake has what looks like a clamp on screw on the bottom and what looks like a set screw on top.
Are these barrels not threaded for the brake ?
They come threaded from the factory. 5/8x24. The screws I see in some ads look like they'd let you adjust the exact position/angle of the brake.
 
I was admiring a TAC A1 the other day and noticed the brake has what looks like a clamp on screw on the bottom and what looks like a set screw on top.
Are these barrels not threaded for the brake ?
Yes they are threaded for the brake.
The clamp screw is for proper alignment.
Manual tells you to screw the brake until it bottoms out then turn it back out just enough to get it level and tighten it.
The top screw is the attachment point for a mirage band.
 
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View attachment 7994102


Tikka t3x CTR:

Vortex Razor gen ii 4.5-27x56
Spuhr 9mil one piece ring base 34mm
Ergo Vertical Grip
Dead Air Keymo suppressor Mount for a custom form 1 titanium suppressor
XLR Envy chassis
Replaced bolt throw lever with an acorn
Factory trigger set at 1.3 lb

I think that's it for the upgrades. I have hit the 1700 yard plate with this rifle multiple times. I've had a note card at a thousand yards three times back to back. The performance of this rifle has impressed the hell out of me and I definitely recommend one.
What folder adapter is that?
 
Hey everyone- Got a Tac A1 coming in a couple weeks, question about the buttstock... I need a stock with tool-less LOP adjustment so the factory one is gonna go by the wayside. I'm a foot taller than my wife so on-the-fly adjustments are appreciated.

The current candidates are the MDT SCS (carbine stock) or the MDT Short SRS with a carbine-to-fixed adapter.

To head it off- Lets just say I don't care about the CTR mags and dont feel like a full chassis swap.

Anyone have any experience with either of these on a Tac A1?

Open to other suggestions if I'm missing some others besides Magpul PRS or XLR stocks as neither are my cup of tea, visually.

Thanks for your help
Bryan
 
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Hey everyone- Got a Tac A1 coming in a couple weeks, question about the buttstock... I need a stock with tool-less LOP adjustment so the factory one is gonna go by the wayside. I'm a foot taller than my wife so on-the-fly adjustments are appreciated.

The current candidates are the MDT SCS (carbine stock) or the MDT Short SRS with a carbine-to-fixed adapter.

To head it off- Lets just say I don't care about the CTR mags and dont feel like a full chassis swap.

Anyone have any experience with either of these on a Tac A1?

Open to other suggestions if I'm missing some others besides Magpul PRS or XLR stocks as neither are my cup of tea, visually.

Thanks for your help
Bryan
Look at the Spuhr chassis. The LOP is extremely easy and fast to adjust. Among some other really great features.
 
I'm building a .375R on an Origin. Your challenge is going to be obtaining dies. I happen to be ordering die reamers and die blanks to solve that problem. If you want plug 'n play, try an 8.6BO.
Awesome. Already have the dies from Lee and was planning to order a mostek .375 raptor barrel for the tikka very shortly. The 8.6 isn’t as plug and play as I thought. Just finished neck turning 400 brass for them.
 
One of these tikkas will have the .308 barrel replaced. Between the t3 tactical with the 24” threaded m18x1.5 and the ctr with 20” threaded 5/8x24 which would you keep as is?
 
CTR.

Gross on neck turning the 8.6. also seems like 1:3" is an issue with most bullets. I would only shoot 350gr solids out of it tho.

Check out Suppressed Weapon Systems for an integrally suppressed .375 Raptor barrel for that T3.
Thanks for the info. Yes the 1:3 needs solid copper for supers. Subs have more bullet options available. Just got a moe mold for cast sub .338 bullets.
 
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Got a notice from Bullet Central that the Bix 'n Andy T3 trigger was back in stock. Sold out by the time I saw the email, ~3 hrs. Any of you guys get one / already have one? $495 - but if she really goes down to 3oz I want it.
 
Built this in the last couple of weeks on a 30/06 Lite for my girlfriend as a Christmas present.
She really enjoyed putting rounds on steel at Precision Rifle Expo with the Sako TRG 22 A1 and the Tikka T3x Tact A1 at 500 yards.
I had a couple take off 6mm Creedmoor barrels and put a Boyd’s laminated Varmint stock on it once I got the '06 barrel off.
I had a spare bolt handle and knob as well as a CTR Scope Pic Rail in the spares box that got pressed into service.
It gave me an excuse to upgrade the scope on my T1x based NRL22 rig…
I think she'll like it.

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Hey everyone- Got a Tac A1 coming in a couple weeks, question about the buttstock... I need a stock with tool-less LOP adjustment so the factory one is gonna go by the wayside. I'm a foot taller than my wife so on-the-fly adjustments are appreciated.

The current candidates are the MDT SCS (carbine stock) or the MDT Short SRS with a carbine-to-fixed adapter.

To head it off- Lets just say I don't care about the CTR mags and dont feel like a full chassis swap.

Anyone have any experience with either of these on a Tac A1?

Open to other suggestions if I'm missing some others besides Magpul PRS or XLR stocks as neither are my cup of tea, visually.

Thanks for your help
Bryan
Hello Brian.
Get the KRG Whiskey.
Best chassis and sooo easy to adjust the LOP in seconds.
My kids and i are shooting with Whiskey.
I am 6´4" and my kids are quite lot shorten, still :)
 
Does anyone know if the factory CTR and Varmint stocks have the same forend?

I could have sworn I read somewhere that the Varmint is flat (better for adding an arca rail) vs the CTR which has a more rounded profile.

Have a friend looking at getting one for general target use and pushing him towards one of the two. I don’t see it getting modified much beyond maybe a rail/muzzle device.
 
Does anyone know if the factory CTR and Varmint stocks have the same forend?

I could have sworn I read somewhere that the Varmint is flat (better for adding an arca rail) vs the CTR which has a more rounded profile.

Have a friend looking at getting one for general target use and pushing him towards one of the two. I don’t see it getting modified much beyond maybe a rail/muzzle device.
The Varmint comes with the optional beavertail forend from the factory and the Ctr has to be purchased separately.
That is what makes the stock flat on both models.
I have no idea how hard it would be to mount an arca to the beavertail.
 
I took my beaver tail forend off my Super Varmint as I prefer a narrower forend. The beaver tail is a little flatter, but not by much.

If you want an Arca or picatinny rail with a slightly radiused stock interface, try https://www.salmonriversolutions.com/

They make good stuff.

If you just want picatinny and don’t mind a flat backside AND want a traditional sling swivel, try this one:

It fits the front of the Super Varmint perfectly (not much distance between bolts). They make other sizes too. It’s not SRS quality, but I wanted a short rail.
 
Good looking’ out gents.

The full length SRS Arca rail is more what I’m after. You’re saying that the radiused interface would work with either the CTR or Varmint stocks? Are there existing holes on both or would I need to add them?