Does anyone know if the AO option works with the Area419 knob? As much as I love Sterk swept handles, I use the 419 knobs on my 457s and find it has a similar feel to the oem ones on my ARC actions. Just worried that the AO handles are too wide before the threaded part for a seamless transition. If I could, I'd definitely opt for a straight handle with a 419 knob, or even better, one of the ARC ones.
The AO uses R700-thread knobs. If they have an option for the R700, then it will fit.
Latest build, T3 6.5 PRC 22” Proof, EH1 Carbon camo, action is tungsten and 30% black cerakote mix. She sits at 6# 12.5oz without the bipod
Breaking in the 223 today with a random load of 8208 and 77 SMKs. First 10 rounds through it before I even zeroed. That’ll do!
Went with the higher 23.4 node on these but I know 22.7 is a popular one as well. Around 2.360” COAL. Average speed was right at 2860 on a brand new barrel so I think 2950-3k will be attainable before it’s all said and done.
Which barrel profile is that?
I have a brand new MTN Tactical I’ll sell if you want, it has an integrated recoil lug.
The 419 rail I have on one of my other rifles is not integrated, it’s a separate pin. Both do the job just fine.
Do a quick search on here ... we had a thread recently that listed lots of options.
This Krieger is insane, never had barrel that is this so accurate.
Scenar 123gr 139gr and 136gr Scenar-L all are working like a lazer beam.
5-shot´s at 100-meters.
It can do this type of groups with all the Scenar´s.
I have shot about 100 pills thru the barrel, no breaking in, just let it go.
Awesome quality on Krieger.
Scenar 123gr 139gr and 136gr Scenar-L all are working like a lazer beam.
5-shot´s at 100-meters.
It can do this type of groups with all the Scenar´s.
I have shot about 100 pills thru the barrel, no breaking in, just let it go.
Awesome quality on Krieger.
For those with a tikka in a krg/whiskey 3 (if it matters)
What mags does the setup prefer? I notice my pmag is not inserting fully. I’ve read mdt polymers do fit unmolested?
If steel, do tikkas have a preference for binder plate or not?
I do not care about loading long, I care about smoothest loading possible. My generic load is 2.8 flat so binders or not is whatever
What mags does the setup prefer? I notice my pmag is not inserting fully. I’ve read mdt polymers do fit unmolested?
If steel, do tikkas have a preference for binder plate or not?
I do not care about loading long, I care about smoothest loading possible. My generic load is 2.8 flat so binders or not is whatever
I've run accurate mags and they are well built. I also have pmags and confirm they don't fit. KRG label mags are rumored to be accurate OEM.
Plastic pmags dont work with Tikkas unless you modify the feed lips area. That is because of the mag action interaction and not dependent on the chassis or stock. Modifying weakens them and makes them more likely to break. I don't think they're worth it.
I bought the KRG mags and they work. Remember the mag well area is adjustable on the Whiskey.
Hi all, just picked up a T3 in a KRG X-ray chassis, trying to install a KRG flush cup to the rear of the stock but it’s bigger than the hole that appears to be cut out for it, any tips, or am I missing something ridiculously obvious?
Well now I feel like a moron! I assumed that was a placeholder to mount the qd cup if you needed it, couldn’t find mention anywhere that it was already fitted. I’ll fit this one to the spigot instead then, thanks.There is QD cup all ready on the rear stock.
Absolutely love your builds by the way, inspirational
thanks all I’m gonna snag some metal mdt without a binder soon. In the meantime since family is home sick I grabbed the vise and files and the pmag works now too
Good thing you asked, instead of taking out the dremel....Well now I feel like a moron! I assumed that was a placeholder to mount the qd cup if you needed it, couldn’t find mention anywhere that it was already fitted. I’ll fit this one to the spigot instead then, thanks.
Absolutely love your builds by the way, inspirational
No problemsWell now I feel like a moron! I assumed that was a placeholder to mount the qd cup if you needed it, couldn’t find mention anywhere that it was already fitted. I’ll fit this one to the spigot instead then, thanks.
Absolutely love your builds by the way, inspirational
Tikka t3x Varmint in 6.5cm MDT XRS
The problem I'm running into is mag selection.
I know the pmags don't work without grinding the crap out of them, (which I did on this one) but what about MDT metal mags?
My hand loads are 2.930 oal so I want to get a 10 Rd metal mag w/o binder plate that doesn't need to be modified.
The problem I'm running into is mag selection.
I know the pmags don't work without grinding the crap out of them, (which I did on this one) but what about MDT metal mags?
My hand loads are 2.930 oal so I want to get a 10 Rd metal mag w/o binder plate that doesn't need to be modified.
IMHO, there is nothing wrong with the TIkka CTR mags, and I'm unsure why so many people work very hard at finding an excuse not to use them, especially in 308 and 6.5/6 Creedmoor.
I don't think it's so much that people "work very hard at finding an excuse not to use them" as much as there are zero aftermarket chassis cut for them aside from the bravo, not everyone wants to run a stock, and some folks want mag compatibility with other non-Tikka rifles. Objectively, CTR mags are great, but that doesn't mean they are always the most sensible or feasible option.
Decided to paint this guy today
... and if you do want to run a stock, the CTR bottom metal isn't as pretty to look at, as some aftermarket options
Looks good.
Now go break out the sponges + 2, 3 or 4 colors of paint and finish the camo job !
Any chance anyone here knows when the left handed T3x RoughTechs in either 7 Rem Mag or 300 Win Mag will hit the shelves? Or if anyone is willing to offload a left handed rifle with a magnum bolt face... hit a brother up. I've looked everywhere and even called Beretta, who said they aren't importing them.... but they couldn't/wouldn't give a timeframe for when the lefties will hit the shelves. Other option is to get the left handed T3X in stainless, but it's going to be run suppressed and those barrels are too thin to thread in 5/8x24, so that'll get interesting. I'd just much rather get the RoughTech from the jump to negate having to do all the aftermarket stuff on the back end.
What can do you have? Thunderbeast does a face mount cb brake. It's big enough for a 9/16 thread.
Hey all, new guy here. Just want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread and the numerous other threads that helped me decide on ordering a Tikka CTR. I've been looking to get into PRS for a few years but the ammo crunch put the brakes on that. This will be my first bolt action rifle and I'm very excited. I'll continue lurking in the shadows, as I don't really have anything to contribute at this point, other than the occasional stupid question
Everybody else has already posted pics of their Tikkas
I've been told by people with titles like Colonel or Ambassador that There Ain't No Such Thing As A Stupid Question.
Another new guy here. I’ve been lurking here for about 6 months. I’ve read this whole thread along with threads on Ruger, Christiansen, Bergara, and others. After all of my research I went with Tikka CTR. Since this thread is best with pictures, here it is.
Tikka CTR, 6.5 cm, 24”
Burris XTR 3.5X18X50
Harris bipod
Area419 Hellfire brake.
Tikka CTR, 6.5 cm, 24”
Burris XTR 3.5X18X50
Harris bipod
Area419 Hellfire brake.
Attachments
Last edited:
Everybody else has already posted pics of their Tikkas
I've been told by people with titles like Colonel or Ambassador that There Ain't No Such Thing As A Stupid Question.
Off subject but Finland has given the world two great sporting tools: Tikka Rifles and Rapala fishing lures. Nice work folks.
Oh boy we got a tight one, wouldn’t want my first tikka full build to be an easy one though would we
How long have you let it soak with Kroil / PBlaster, etc. ?
Heat Cycles ?
Heat the receiver right at the threads, preload the cheater pipe on the action wrench and bump the end of the wrench with a heavy hammer.
That's how the last on came off.
Similar threads
