After 11,939 posts I do believe we have a winner.
Sir photographs of the internals of the bedding area inside the chassis would be appreciated.
This is something I would love to do with my .223
Sorry but it's been done before. Posts 111, 1512, 1608, and 10,015. May be more but I don't recall.
@Smokerroller looks great.
One of those days at the office.
Testing day.
Testing day.
@Rob01 , @Lowlight , @MarinePMI
Looking at a NIB, Left Handed Tikka T3x Tact A1... is it worth the $2299 before sales tax?
I see tension knobs on the cheekpiece- is it just friction and pressure that keep the cheekpiece from dropping under use, and do Tact A1 cheekpieces stay put when tightened?
Is it easy to find a spigot for mounting a bipod?
Will any aftermarket magazines work?
Because I'm Left Handed, so many LH chassis are out of stock/have a wait time, LH actions too, and I'm not sure I want to wait for a custom action and higher end chassis.
Looking at a NIB, Left Handed Tikka T3x Tact A1... is it worth the $2299 before sales tax?
I see tension knobs on the cheekpiece- is it just friction and pressure that keep the cheekpiece from dropping under use, and do Tact A1 cheekpieces stay put when tightened?
Is it easy to find a spigot for mounting a bipod?
Will any aftermarket magazines work?
Because I'm Left Handed, so many LH chassis are out of stock/have a wait time, LH actions too, and I'm not sure I want to wait for a custom action and higher end chassis.
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Aftermarket magazines the way it is? No. That chassis uses Ctr or sako trg (don't remember proper trg number) that the ctrs are a slightly cheaper version of.
Why are you specifically wanting the taca1?
What the A1 gets you is a threaded heavy barrel with a 2 stage trigger in a chassis. Are you going to be happy with that chassis?
Another option is to get a left hand lite stainless and modify.
If you want the 2 stage that's harder to replicate but has been done by modifying for left hand a midas trigger (which is currently out of stock). Or just get a $10 trigger spring and lower the weight of the very good single stage it comes with.
Whiskey 3 for Tikka are available and is easy to modify for left hand. Only a bolt handle cut out needed. Same for krg's other chassis. For left hand use the folder isn't needed since the bolt handle won't let it fold all of the way. Whiskey 3 are available AICS ($960), or CTR with enclosed forend ($1130).
If you want a heavier barrel, shouldered prefits are available so you can get what contour you want. Barrels can be harder to get off but not impossible.
If you start with the lite you may not have a 2 stage but you will have a stainless action.
I started with a lite stainless. Haven't changed the barrel yet other than getting it threaded by Thunderbeast.
Other places have that A1 and the lites for a cheaper price. Check out Locked Loaded.
1) I don't necessarily really want a T3x Tact A1, but it's the only decent, accurate option that'll have me shooting anytime soon! Left Handed options in custom actions that I like, chassis that I'm interested in, are mostly out of stock and I'd have to wait 3-5 months to have both in hand.
2) Single stage works for me, but the Tact A1 has a two stage- which I'd live with.
3) I already thought of getting a T3x in SS, but the only thing my dealer found in stock at his sources were a few LITES in 308 in LH SS. Because I want a different chambering, I'd ultimately be paying about a $1000 for just the action and trigger on one of those stainless 308. I also have no interest in a LITE barrel, and definitely don't want any Tikka stock/chassis, either.
Tikka offers a few "non-LITE" T3x in stainless with slightly heavier barrel profile, but I haven't been able to find any in stock yet.
The search continues!
What chamber are you going for?
What chassis do you prefer?
The nice thing about going with a complete rifle and upgrading vs an action is it is shootable the whole time.
Check out lockedloaded.com. Taca1 for under 2k. Lite ss 300Wsm, creed, and 308 available. 800ish.
Which ones that are available (read imported) in a heavier profile left hand stainless?
This is going off of choose.tikka.fi/usa and sorting left hand.
Choose your own Tikka rifle from a variety of innovative models
Tikka is able to meet the requirements of modern hunters by combining traditional gunsmith know-how with advanced technology. Choose your own Tikka rifle now!
choose.tikka.fi
T1x are 22lr. None stainless. (I just ordered a 20" today).
Ctr? Of the 45 shown only 4 are imported. None of those 4 stainless.
Hunters? Lite profile barrel in a wood stock.
Sportster? Of the 7, 3 are imported. None stainless.
Varmint? None of the 3 shown are imported.
The others listed are all lite profile.
All of the other unsorted models are right hand only.
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@cannoncrossfire , you are the godfather of Tikka accessories and installing a Tikka into a AI chassis. This rifle (and your swept bolt knobs) was the inspiration for building the TAX.
Well, in the winter, and when the fresh 8" of snow has in the land, it is quite sweaty job to walk to the office
Half mile walking, with all the gear + 30lbs.
But after the job is done, i dont mind the hard work no more
This action has been through many different iterations. I have Defiance, Impact, Lone Peak, and a host of others. The factory Tikka is still one of my most accurate rifles.
I like this over the vision forearm since it doesn’t have the huge magazine barricade.
Does anyone know what SAC bushing for the Tikka viel and alpine barrels? I think they are the D18 contour.
Anybody have a tikka ctr in a eh1 that’s cut for a proof sendero?
Or, less specific, anyone have a photo of a ctr barrel in a proof sendero inlet?
Or, less specific, anyone have a photo of a ctr barrel in a proof sendero inlet?
No pic but a ctr is roughly a light Palma contour per @bohem . Light Palma is smaller than a sendero contour. You should be good.
There's no doubt it will fit, he probably wants to see how hotdog down a hallway it will look.
POS Tikka's don't shoot worth a damn.....Finally after 2 years of trying purchase a T3x Super Varmint 20" .308.
Disassembled cleaned and inspected, lite trigger spring installed, YHM QD brake, all fasteners torqued to spec. Hopefully it shoots close to my T3x .223 Varmint. The Tupperware stock fits the action like a glove and actually feels decent.
This result makes it worth the two year wait. Those groups were shot in the 35- 40 total round count on the barrel. I did a one shot thorough clean 2 times, then a 3 shot group and thorough clean 2 times and shot 33 rounds today.
110g to 168g with a 1:11 with a 20" barrel works for me.
I finally got the Tikka CTR out to the range. Still in factory condition with factory magazine. I tried 4 different loads. Got a couple under 1 MOA in windy conditions. The most frustrating thing was, every other round, the magazine came loose and the bolt failed to pick up a round. It got to be like malfunction drills with handguns. Shoot, tap, rack. Any thought?
Attachments
With a flat screw driver pry out the magazine catch. Little cut out in the back of the mag. This will make it lock more solid and less rattle.
edi
I did that to my ctr and it helped a lot, once any bugs are worked out ctr mags are fantastic. They are so smooth compared to aics
Had to switch to AICS due to a chassis swap and I miss the CTR smoothness. Only been one range trip so I'm hoping they'll magically break in... Or I just forget how smooth the CTR mags were.
Throw together parts build. krylon'd the forend and plastic.
F3R. Thanks!What scope mount is that? Looks beefy as hell. Sweet rig bud
AICS mags can be made very smooth by rounding the edge of the feed lips with 600-1000 grit wet paper (less scratches on the cases as well). Last shot can be made smoother by flattening the plastic feed ramp a bit. The part where the cartridge shoulder bumps against. A little bit of resistance is not a bad thing either.
edi
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I had one for about 10 years until I finally found a CTR .223.
It was a great lightweight rifle. But once I added a bunch of heavy stuff to it (big scope, suppressor, CTR bolt knob, etc), I figured I wasn’t in it to be lightweight anymore, so I went with the CTR
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Love it. Currently run a CTR and love it. curious what factory loads or particular pills it liked. Been reading some compelling thinhs on the 77tmk and Eldm's. Interested in your experience.I had one for about 10 years until I finally found a CTR .223.
It was a great lightweight rifle. But once I added a bunch of heavy stuff to it (big scope, suppressor, CTR bolt knob, etc), I figured I wasn’t in it to be lightweight anymore, so I went with the CTR
I only shoot factory hornady varmint express 55gr vmax. I use it to hunt. So, being explosive, accurate, and readily available were key.
my wife in her finest chuck hunting outfit
I have a hard time seeing the value of a superlite over a standard lite. Its just a few ounces of fluting and makes things more complicated if you want to chop and thread it.
Few last changes made, sterk bolt handle which makes handling way better and PMII 4-16x50 instead of the PMII 10x42.
T3x 6,5x55
PSE Etac stock
Before/after:
5 shots/100m Sako racehead
10 shots/100m, one low after cleaning Sako racehead
Cheers from Germany
Daniel
T3x 6,5x55
PSE Etac stock
Before/after:
5 shots/100m Sako racehead
10 shots/100m, one low after cleaning Sako racehead
Cheers from Germany
Daniel
This is my CTR 6.5 CM in a vision chassis. Yo Dave trigger spring, HVHA titanium bolt handle and shroud, TBAC bipod and Dominus-CB, Spuhr scope mount, I hope upgrade the Steiner to higher magnification scope in the future.
Out with the old Match Pro and in with the new Match Pro ED.
That poor, naked Bravo Stock is crying for a camo paint job...Out with the old Match Pro and in with the new Match Pro ED.
Krylon & grass stalks, brush leaves, a sponge camo job, anything for that blob.
It needs some character, and personal identity. Let your imagination run wild on that plastic.
Guys I fucked up. Was cutting and filing the picatinny scope base screws, doing the process almost correctly. The incorrect part was not having a torque wrench, so I just told myself I'd get it handtight and get correct torque later. Well after I had filed down screws I put the bolt back in and it was operable. Then I thought that maybe I could tighten down the screws just a hair more. On the second screw from the rear, I accidentally overtorqued and broke the head off the screw, while simultaneously biting into the bolt because I forgot to take it back out of the action.
Is there any redemption for me?
Is there any redemption for me?
yea im taking it to a smith today, and assume all will be fine based on how soft those screws are. I bet it hardly will have scratched the bolt.
My pride on the other hand, is irreparable.
My pride on the other hand, is irreparable.
Happens, I have one of these issues with every tikka lol. My first ctr I tightened the mirage band screw like an idiot and bent the rail. Then when trying to remove it I stripped the rail screws and had to send it to my smith. I thought it was a big deal but he got the screw out in like 10 minutes.
My second build I bent an outside action wrench trying to get my barrel off and rolled the edge of the top of my action over where the wrench was dented. Smith cut the barrel off. And popped a new Bart on for me.
I just ordered another tikka and I should text him so we can make bets on what he has to un-fuck on this one. Lol
My second build I bent an outside action wrench trying to get my barrel off and rolled the edge of the top of my action over where the wrench was dented. Smith cut the barrel off. And popped a new Bart on for me.
I just ordered another tikka and I should text him so we can make bets on what he has to un-fuck on this one. Lol
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