Contact the warranty dept. They’ll get you fixed up with a replacement.
So my firing pin assembly showed up. Anyone ever replace the assembly? I’m looking for direction on how to depress the spring enough to put an Allen key in the slot to keep the spring depressed for reassembly.
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Figured it out.
The vid was the exact opposite of what I needed but thanks for taking the time to look.
P
The vid was the exact opposite of what I needed but thanks for taking the time to look.
P
Find a surface with a 90 degree edge you don’t mind scratching, like the edge of a table or desk. Use the notch that the bolt handle goes in as the lever point. Be sure to have the correct size Allen wrench handy. Put the bolt handle notch closest to the firing pin against the solid surface. Grab the firing pin end of the assembly and push away from you. The spring will depress at the cocking indicator end and expose the opening between the bolt handle collar and the cocking indicator. Slide the Allen wrench through the opening and release pressure on the spring.
Another customer build shared with us.
Manners eh1tk came in.
This is what a proof sendero channel looks like with a T3x lite barrel if anyone in the future needs that. Lol. I think she’s free floated!
Eh1tk with 2 qd a 3slot pic rail and mini chassis is 37.5 ounces
This is what a proof sendero channel looks like with a T3x lite barrel if anyone in the future needs that. Lol. I think she’s free floated!
Eh1tk with 2 qd a 3slot pic rail and mini chassis is 37.5 ounces
Let me know if want to trade for a bravo that. Sweet looking stock thanks for the pictures.Manners eh1tk came in.
This is what a proof sendero channel looks like with a T3x lite barrel if anyone in the future needs that. Lol. I think she’s free floated!
Eh1tk with 2 qd a 3slot pic rail and mini chassis is 37.5 ounces View attachment 8135046View attachment 8135047View attachment 8135048
Just kidding unless you don’t like it hit me up first.
Question about my T3x build. I have a 22 CM barrel on order and need to remove the ejector on the bolt to headspace.
Anything special I need to know about removing it? Do I have to take the firing pin assembly out before hand? Do I need to hold the plunger in while tapping out the roll pin or do I just start tapping? I've done this on an AnTi and made a little gizmo to hold the plunger in to take the pressure off the spring. Can't seem to find info on the right way to do this on the t3x bolt.
Would rather ask a bunch of dumb questions than do something dumb. Info is greatly appreciated.
Anything special I need to know about removing it? Do I have to take the firing pin assembly out before hand? Do I need to hold the plunger in while tapping out the roll pin or do I just start tapping? I've done this on an AnTi and made a little gizmo to hold the plunger in to take the pressure off the spring. Can't seem to find info on the right way to do this on the t3x bolt.
Would rather ask a bunch of dumb questions than do something dumb. Info is greatly appreciated.
Not at all.
The vid shows removal and replacement of the same firing pin assembly. I got a new one that didn’t have the Allen key in it.
Had to figure out how to depress the bolt handle collar so I could slide an Allen key between the cocking indicator and bolt handle collar.
The spring is a strong SOB.
P
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Will a Tikka Lite 6.5CM barrelled action fit directly into a CTR 308 stock and feed / function using the CTR’s magazine?
I realise that the barrel channel on the CTR stock is wider , but I don’t care about that , could even be an advantage to have it really free floated .
Just wondering about the compatibility.
Cheers
I realise that the barrel channel on the CTR stock is wider , but I don’t care about that , could even be an advantage to have it really free floated .
Just wondering about the compatibility.
Cheers
The general answer is yes, any t3X will work with the CTR bottom metal.
Now for the caveat, before there was the t3X, there was the Old schoot Tikka t3...and IIRC this earlier version of a Tikka will not work with the CTR bottom metal/magazine setup for 308 boltface. There is a minor modification (machining step) to the base of the action required. Google this for more info, and PICs, etc...only if its relevant.
Otherwise, don't worry about it for recent Tikkas.
Excellent I have a T3x lite and have been offered a T3x CTR stock/bottom metal/magazine for the price of postage from a friend.
It seems like a very easy way to change my Lite to a 10 round magazine .
The CTR setup will only be used when I’m shooting Pigs and need a bit more firepower.
The rest of the time I’ll just use the standard stock/magazine because I’m not a big fan of carrying a rifle with a mag protruding out the bottom, it’s just not as comfortable to carry in the hand .
IIRC, there’s also a magazine retainer spring installed under the trigger screw on the non CTR/TAC models. You’ll need to remove that to use the CTR bottom metal and magazines. And then reinstall if you switch back and forth.
Sterk along with a bunch of others make a tikka bolt cocker, to give you more leverage similar to the Allen wrench. They are a bugger to cock without it.
I finally got my CTR in a Bravo stock. I cant wait to shoot it. I also dropped the factory trigger down from 3 lbs. to 2 lbs. I plan to try it there before replacing the spring.
I know some people were looking for .223 , rifles, I see where euro optic has the Tikka tac a-1 in.223 in stock. I think I have the prefix correct.
Mods, if this is in the wrong place, please move or delete, Thanks, Charlie112
Mods, if this is in the wrong place, please move or delete, Thanks, Charlie112
I have a T3 (not T3X) in 260 and it is working fine in a T3X CTR stock and mags.
Because you are a Tikka guy and because you are from Europe, do you have any thoughts and opinions on the “Wild Boar” T3x model that Tikka sells over there ?
It is imported here into Australia and there is very few real information/reviews available online about it , just sales and advertising.
Any thoughts or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Ken
Just looked it up. Ctr but change its barrel with the lite polyfade barrel (lite profile but fluted {is the same as the superlite profile} and threaded). Threaded 14x1 that I saw. Not sure how common that is there.
Or another way to look at it is they have a un painted lite polyfade in a ctr stock, ctr mag, and 0moa rail.
What are you wanting to do with it? More than 3 rounds in a group? Maybe not the best.
The mag is great but it doesn't match the barrel profile.
Stock is OK if you like tupperware stocks. The stock is the CTR so it's better than the lite stock. Aftermarket stock like a Bravo might be better depending on what you want to do with it.
Has a rail but it will be the same as the CTR at 0moa (unless mentioned that I didn't see) and is hard to get off without heat. If you want to shoot far you might want more moa. Either change that rail or do it in the mount.
Some things to think about. BTW I put together a tikka buying guide sort of post a couple of years back. Has some more info that helps understand tikkas.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
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They are a bit of a unique Tikka option here in Australia and there isn’t many of them around.
I’m in the process of assembling a CTR Lite out of a mixture or parts.
I own a T3x Lite 6.5CM and it is a Hunting rifle that is used primarily on Pigs with the very occasional Deer and Wild Dog ( Dingo ) .
I’ve very recently purchased a CTR Stock /Bottom metal/Magazine to convert my rifle to what I thought was a unique hunting Tikka where multiple shots are sometimes required.
After doing some research of my “ brilliant “ idea I find Tikka has already done the same thing but probably better
I’m just interested in hearing if the concept actually works and handles well in an offhand / fast shooting scenario.
A friend of mine shoots a stock "Wild Boar" in .308 Win, and it is indeed a CTR with the Lite barrel. Neat rifle, gives you most of the upside of the CTR (BIG mag that never fails - in my experience - but I've heard others complain) but still light enough to carry across mountains. I have shot it at running targets at the range and I am very comfortable with it. With a suppressor it has a pretty good balance.
I would say do it. I have a CTR and it's a bit on the heavy side for my hunting, but brilliant at the range. I cannot shoot the CTR consistently without support but I am a weakling. The Wild Boar was fine, though. Even great.
I opened up the mag well on a T3x sporter stock to land CTR bottom metal, and have the best of both worlds. I had to use washers to get the spacing right (that is make the BM stand away from the stock more) because the plastic stuff is thicker than the metal CTR BM.
I cut a factory stainless sporter in 308 to 19”, threaded it 5/8 x 24, and installed a brake/adapter for a can.
When I don’t want or need the 10 round mags, or just want lighter weight, I put it in a regular T3x stock with the plastic mags and go hunt.
I also pulled a few CTR cheek pieces, and put one on the sporter stock with CTR bottom metal, and one on the sporter stock with plastic factory bottom “metal” and mag. I use Sportsmatch medium 30mm rings, and the CTR cheek pieces align my eye to the scope perfectly.
I put a Karsten Kydex adjustable saddle cheek piece on my actual CTR stock.
I cut a factory stainless sporter in 308 to 19”, threaded it 5/8 x 24, and installed a brake/adapter for a can.
When I don’t want or need the 10 round mags, or just want lighter weight, I put it in a regular T3x stock with the plastic mags and go hunt.
I also pulled a few CTR cheek pieces, and put one on the sporter stock with CTR bottom metal, and one on the sporter stock with plastic factory bottom “metal” and mag. I use Sportsmatch medium 30mm rings, and the CTR cheek pieces align my eye to the scope perfectly.
I put a Karsten Kydex adjustable saddle cheek piece on my actual CTR stock.
Hi,
Well it happened. Managed to destroy my screws. Before I get them out I'd like to buy replacement screws. I don't like the idea of Allen screws for obvious reasons, does anybody have the specs for these two screws so I can buy ones with a torx head? (The ones that attach the barrel nut to the stock)
Much appreciated!
Well it happened. Managed to destroy my screws. Before I get them out I'd like to buy replacement screws. I don't like the idea of Allen screws for obvious reasons, does anybody have the specs for these two screws so I can buy ones with a torx head? (The ones that attach the barrel nut to the stock)
Much appreciated!
Not a stock he is talking about the tikka Tac A1 chassis, screws that hold the barrel nut where the forend attaches
I removed the original chassis and went with an MPA competition, hated having to mount the scope so high. This is how it looks now.
Proof 20" bull barrel chambered in .223
Proof 20" bull barrel chambered in .223
Tikka series pure hunting rifle, CTR teflon coated bolt, magazine, picatinny rail, but with the thin hunting profile barrel, and the orange grip parts. Nice rig for a hunting purpose.
I’ve just put my Lite action into the CTR stock and it fits perfectly ( fully floated barrel obviously because of the thinner barrel ) .
This is my first experience with the CTR box magazine and the thing rattles around something crazy .
I don’t think I’ve done anything wrong with the installation , it’s just a loose fit .
There is no way I’d carry it hunting the way it is because of the noise.
Is there a way to tighten up the fit of the CTR magazine when it’s installed ?
Cheers
This is my first experience with the CTR box magazine and the thing rattles around something crazy .
I don’t think I’ve done anything wrong with the installation , it’s just a loose fit .
There is no way I’d carry it hunting the way it is because of the noise.
Is there a way to tighten up the fit of the CTR magazine when it’s installed ?
Cheers
Be 100% sure the recoil lug is engaged. Only 2.5mm and often overseen. When the mag is filled there is less rattle.
If still rattling insert a flat screwdriver into magazine catch square opening, screw driver pointing upwards. Pry out the the catch a small bit at a time until the magazine fits the way you like it.
edi
Add a piece of electrical tape to front of the mag. You might have to put two pieces layering and building up on the mag until the rattle stops. Just make sure you don’t put too much where you can not pull the mag out easily. Make sure the rounds still feed reliably.
(I’ll be posting my T3XA1 65CM in the for-sale section, should anyone be looking… LOTs of extras)
That's pretty much exactly what I'm thinking about doing with a 30-06 T3X SS. How does it balance with and without the bipod and what does your can weigh?
My can weighs 19 ounces, (need to clean it, that’s 3 ounces over new)
Balances right at the front/shoulder of the action with the can on without the bipod. Bipod pushes that point forward another inch or so.
In a perfect world with a 14-15 ounce can I think it would balance perfectly for me for a stalking rifle. As is it’s a good combo rifle with a touch more nose weight for a bipod. From feel, I think it will be good to go out of a tree stand which will be mostly where it lives.
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