I've seen that video and no they dont, but the manual reccommendations it so I was just curious as to what others are doing.
I've seen that video and no they dont, but the manual reccommendations it so I was just curious as to what others are doing.
For some reason I thought the picatinny base that came with it was 20 MOA.....not sure where I got that.
the mpa was quoted at 12 weeks mine was more like 14-15 weeks though like i said lefty problems. i called in the middle of week 13 and they said they had my chassis in paint before they realized it was supposed to have been cut left handed so they had to make another and it was in paint then. it was still a week- week and a half before i got it then though. i couldnt be much happier with it though cause it is truly a work of art!
My new Tikka T3x varmint ss .204 Ruger.
going to be used for fox calling during the winter seasons.
MDT LSS chassi, Battle link buttstock, XLR folding addapter and a hogue grip. mossy oak wrap + some camo tape. scope is a March 5-40x56 FML1 mrad with tier one rings, going to be replaced with a k624i MSR or a Minox Zp5 tac 5-25x56 MR2. The march will end up on my long range rig.
haven't shot with the ting yet, got some time off next week so will test some loads then.
Also waiting for the paperwork on a supressor, should have that in a few weeks.
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going to be used for fox calling during the winter seasons.
MDT LSS chassi, Battle link buttstock, XLR folding addapter and a hogue grip. mossy oak wrap + some camo tape. scope is a March 5-40x56 FML1 mrad with tier one rings, going to be replaced with a k624i MSR or a Minox Zp5 tac 5-25x56 MR2. The march will end up on my long range rig.
haven't shot with the ting yet, got some time off next week so will test some loads then.
Also waiting for the paperwork on a supressor, should have that in a few weeks.
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I haven't bedded it I just dropped it in and torqued the bolts to around 50" pounds there is another member in here who has the same stock and he said he did bed his and his groups tightened up just a little bit more. It shoots plenty good for what I mainly use it for (banging steel out to 1000yds)
Interested in hearing that you put a .223 Varmint in an X-Ray, when you say it's a little light in the butt do you mean the rifle is too light weight? Have you tried any AICS mags in that chassis and how does it feed?
I too was waiting for the AICS chassis but finally gave up and went for a MPA Lite chassis. Good thing too as after about of year of promise, Midway USA finally took that ad down this week...
finally finished mine up a couple weeks ago. It took longer than expected but I should have known being a lefty something would get messed up because of it. Either way I couldn't be happier how it turned out
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What caliber is that?
I got the CTR sighted in today, unfortunately a mud slide took out part of the 100yrd line so I was only able to shoot at 50yrds, but for sure sub MOA as guaranteed with factory ammo. Looking forward to stretching it out further this weekend
Tikka in Manners T4, Sterk Titanium Pineapple Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in PSE Composites Stock
Tikka in TRG (KRG Backbone), Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in Wombat Ordnance Chassis with Viperskins, Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in Wombat Ordnance Chassis with AI 1.5 Skins, Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in AI AICS AX Chassis (REM700 SA Modified Inlet), Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in PSE Composites Stock
Tikka in TRG (KRG Backbone), Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in Wombat Ordnance Chassis with Viperskins, Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in Wombat Ordnance Chassis with AI 1.5 Skins, Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Tikka in AI AICS AX Chassis (REM700 SA Modified Inlet), Sterk Swept Ball Bolt handle and Titanium Shroud
Has anyone figured out a way to dissolve the factory glue from the CTR rails? I got my Factory rail off but there was a lot of residual glue stuck to the action and rail. I've tried acetone, paint thinner, mineral spirits, and solvent with no success.
Bought a tikka ctr .308. First bolt action rifle i have owned. Threw it in this krg xray chassis, topped it off with a razor gen 1 5-20. First three shots out of the rifle at 100. I was very happy. It consistently keeps groups about 1/2moa or better if i do my part. Hoping to get another in 6.5 and use a manners stock next time around. Love these guns.
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I've been trying to sell one of my HK 45 (full size) pistols so I can buy a Tikka T3x CTR in 260 Rem. One of my local shops has one and I want it sooooooo bad. I may just go ahead and see what they'll give me for trade.
I couldnt get anything to work either so i ended up using a razor blade and cut/scraped it off for the most part. I put an iron on it and heated it a little to try and soften but didn't notice much difference.
Mine was already soft using the heat gun to get the rail loose, then I used a razor blade to get the majority of it off and cleaned up the rest with acetone
The best way to dissolve old blue loctite is with fresh blue loctite. That's something I learned from one of my other hobbies (RC cars) It always work with screws but I don't know if it's gonna work on the receivers, just pour some fresh blue loctite on a rag and rub on top of the receiver where the old glue is.
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How difficult of a time did you have getting that factory rail off? I have the same rifle and Im about to do the rail switch as well. About how much time did you have to keep the heat on it?
6.5 creedmoor. it started life as a 260 though. got 260 so my dad could have the barrel to ditch his 270 barrel on his hunting rifle since i knew i wouldnt be keeping the barrel anyways.
Not long at all, I did 1-2 minutes with low heat and it didnt budge, bumped it up to the high heat for maybe a minute and was able to pull it off.
Good to hear. Thanks. I just wish they would put a damn 20MOA rail on from the factory and save us the trouble...
Finally decided to order my first Tikka- Tikka T3X Varmint in 223 with the 1:8 twist barrel- ordered a 20 MOA pic base from Tikka Performance so far. Sounds like Norma Match 77 works well from some of the old posts I have been able to find so right now Im thinking about buying 100-200 rounds to see how it works and then use the brass for reloads. Curious what FACTORY ammo people have tried in their 223 Varmints and their results?
I am trying to upgrade my T3X CTR and have a few questions:
1. Who makes the best 20 moa replacement rail?
2. Trying to decide on either a chassis or a manners drop-in stock. I was told that the manners does not need to be bedded. Is this true? Gun will primarily be used for hunting purposes. Any preferences?
3. Any aftermarket triggers at this time or is the spring the only option?
Thanks
1. Who makes the best 20 moa replacement rail?
2. Trying to decide on either a chassis or a manners drop-in stock. I was told that the manners does not need to be bedded. Is this true? Gun will primarily be used for hunting purposes. Any preferences?
3. Any aftermarket triggers at this time or is the spring the only option?
Thanks
Love my T3X Varmint in 223!
great results with Hornady 55gr Vmax and 62grFMJ reloads so far. I have 73 ELD loaded up for and OCW test this weekend with two different powders. Going to try the 75gr when they back in stock. Reloads are less than 1/2 MOA easy with some 5 shot groups measuring 0.200-0.300"
awesome rifle for shooting good number of rounds for cheap and wacking the hell out of prairie dogs. Got a good number of the little shits at 500-600 yards last weekend. Going out again this weekend for more fun.
thanks man. I highly recommend getting one as it is a super comfortable and stable platform. Just a joy to shoot. I did opt for the longer 15.5" hand guard and that is the varmint 24" barrel. If you reload than the mag is very long so you can shove 10 rounds of heavy bullets into it.
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Is there a real performance upgrade going with the stainless steel barrel over the standard? Measurable accuracy bump ?
TP
I have a 7mm-08 superlite going in a McMillan Edge Hunter stock with CDI bottom metal. I have a hellfire brake I want installed to use with a can, but due to the short barrel length, the barrel will need to be removed for threading. This is new, never fired, but since the barrel is to be removed, should I just run the factory tube or look at an aftermarket. I want to keep the rifle around 8# with a Nightforce SHV 3-10x42, so not looking to gain much weight if I do go aftermarket. Looking for advice on first Tikka.
Love to see all these Tikka's. Some years back, there was a bunch of contempt/hate for them. And one member here....user, nobody....would talk mad shit about them.
Those of use who "broke trail" by buying and shooting them learned quickly that the are a very good out of the box rifle and a great platform to build on.
My first Tikka was the Tactical model in .308 with the 24" barrel. At the same time I owned a TRG-22 in .308. Side by side the Tikka held the edge on accuracy over the TRG.
Nothing major mind you, but the edge went to the Tikka.
I will have to dig up some pics of mine to keep this thread gong.
Those of use who "broke trail" by buying and shooting them learned quickly that the are a very good out of the box rifle and a great platform to build on.
My first Tikka was the Tactical model in .308 with the 24" barrel. At the same time I owned a TRG-22 in .308. Side by side the Tikka held the edge on accuracy over the TRG.
Nothing major mind you, but the edge went to the Tikka.
I will have to dig up some pics of mine to keep this thread gong.
Sadly it has been on a strict diet of factory ammo mostly hornady 75gr superformance match
Also interested to know what other people think of their grs berserk. I have one and the forend seems weak to me. There is quite a bit of play and I wasn't sure if it is just mine or all of em are like that
Got the same rifle but will be going with a MPA Lite folder chassis. I see in your photo that you also went with the clamp on brake like me - that thing works well. How are you liking the AI mags? I am planning on using the MDT and hope they will feed properly.
I sold it mate, the front half of the stock does have a lot of flex. I also found the hook on the rear of the stock is too excessive. If you carry it around, the design of the pistol grip will cause you to knock your bolt up accidentally if you're not paying attention. Once the stock gets dirt into it, its a real prick to get clean again, especially the sticky rubber areas.
It's not a bad stock if you sit and plink as the grip is comfortable and recoil reduction is also good. Adjustable cheekpiece is not bad. I have a mate with a T3 varmint in one an he's happy with it.
I wouldn't buy another.
Took the 223 varmint back to the range today and I have to say it's becoming my favorite. The plan was to put it into a chassis, but after pulling off the buttpad, removing the foam and dumping a bunch of lead shot into the stock ), I'm wondering why. I pulled the scope off the R700 308 (the gun this one was going to mimic with a new chassis) but why. For the time being, I'm just going to shoot it. My reloads include 50g v max, 53g smk, 75g a max, and 77g smk's ...and... I was able to find a sweet spot with each series. The only other upgrade has been the 10 dollar trigger spring from YoDave. Dang I like this gun.
It is sub moa most of the time if the guy jerking the trigger would get it together
I have gone all the way out to 1000 with it but it is really hard to see impacts, 800 is not too bad tho. About 6-8 months ago i tried to run a ladder test on the 75gr hpbt and the 80gr amax but didn't really know what i was doing so I put it on hold till I had some more learning under my belt I have been stocking up on components was looking at 80gr stuff but I think I will try the 77 gr berger otm first not sure on power I have cfe 223, blc2, varget, and 4064 to try in that order here is a couple of pic for reference[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i.imgur.com\/fYqRdiel.jpg"}[/IMG2]
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under 500 yds the 55gr tap does alright
I do Like the AI mag I also have the Accurate 223 and 308 mags. I use the 308 mag as a single shot follower because the raised lips on the 223 mag cause the bullet to nose dive into the breech face if you just toss one in and run the bolt
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I did have to mod the plastic ai mag but only a little bit
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