Tikka T3 Thread

#3,751
Kmahow2 said:
The stock Tikka trigger can be set very light, but you have to modify the trigger pressure grub screw. When wound out to maximum factory lightness it contacts the trigger unit mounting bolt head. If you remove the trigger unit & take a mm or two off the head of the grub screw, it will wind out further & lighten the pull. It’s still single stage, but everyone that has shot mine has been amazed at how light it is ;).

YMMV
Click to expand...

Any concerns with slam firing or the sear falling when you don’t want it to let out that far? I’ve thought about doing this.
 
#3,752
caporegime said:
I didn't know that about the action, pretty cool. I'll give Boyds a call next week just to see what they say. My current CTR is in a Manners but I'm going to eventually pick up a T1X and someone offered me a CTR in .260 that I'm thinking about. I'd like a cheaper stock option and don't mind doing the pillar and bedding work.
Click to expand...

Exactly my thinking. They are cheap enough and can be made to work very well with a little time and effort. So even if it doesn’t end up being cheaper than a Bravo or something similar all said and done, I think you would have the same finished product.
 
#3,753
just browsing said:
Any concerns with slam firing or the sear falling when you don’t want it to let out that far? I’ve thought about doing this.
Click to expand...
Well I’ve had mine set to my liking for 10 years & never had a slam fire or accidental discharge, without pulling the trigger. I did once tap the trigger with a finger tip in the cold when unloading a live round so my target buddy could get back in the game. I can’t pull the trigger or make the gun discharge when the safety is on or when abusing the bolt.

YMMV depends on how light you set any trigger I guess.
 
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#3,754
silhouette said:
I'll give it a try. I have the Yodave spring and can't get light enough without it slam firing (about 1lb 10oz).
Originally my rifle had the factory set trigger which I loved and shot very well with, but discovered it was a bit of a disadvantage on timed stages. So I swapped it and haven't been as competitive since. Just trying to bring back my A game.
Click to expand...

I don’t have a trigger pull gauge, but using no stretch cord & a spring scale it trips just under 2lb.
 
#3,757
perttime said:
Careful now...
I recall a discussion where somebody got accidental discharges after circumventing that built-in limiting on a Tikka. Discharge just by closing the action, not to speak about bumping the rifle.
Click to expand...

Yep, this has happened to me, got an AD by ape-handling my bolt shut hard and fast, rifle went off by closing the bolt. Never again will I run the trigger set screw out farther than not quite touching the trigger unit mounting bolt head..
 
#3,759
All my tikka triggers are around 1lb. You don't need to modify the grub screw you need a lighter spring. All the tikka's I've seen having triggee issues have had the standard trigger spring with the grub screw backed out so far that the spring has nil pre-load. I've got a mini coil spring kit from brownells that I've used to do about 20 tikka triggers, pick a lighter gauge spring and cut it to the proper length. 2 min job!
 
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#3,760
kabarNC said:
Yep, this has happened to me, got an AD by ape-handling my bolt shut hard and fast, rifle went off by closing the bolt. Never again will I run the trigger set screw out farther than not quite touching the trigger unit mounting bolt head..
Click to expand...
An remember to put a drop of blue loctite on the grub screw.(y)
 
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#3,762
UVE.jpg
 
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#3,764
mckchome said:
@Simia Dei : Now that you've been through a few stocks, what would you recommend? I have a CTR 308 and have been using a Mcrees G7. There are many commendable aspects to this chassis, but I'd really like to try something different. I have often used this gun for hunting antelope and javelina and the metal is too loud.
Click to expand...
I recommend the factory stock. You already paid for it and is hard to beat for a hunting stock. After hunting season, put it back in the chassis if you would like.
 
#3,766
mckchome said:
@Simia Dei : Now that you've been through a few stocks, what would you recommend? I have a CTR 308 and have been using a Mcrees G7. There are many commendable aspects to this chassis, but I'd really like to try something different. I have often used this gun for hunting antelope and javelina and the metal is too loud.
Click to expand...
Depends what you like mate. If you like chassis but don’t want to use the mcrees, an MPA/MDT ACC or similar may do the job. Disclaimer is that I haven’t used any chassis for the tikka action so can’t provide an experienced opinion.

I like Manners stocks. The T4A I have on the tikka would make it a suitable comp gun with the weight at 7.5kg, however, if I was to do it again, I’d just buy the Manners PRS stock for the Tikka. The mini-chassis allows for easy use of the AI style mags. As I’ll only run two rifles for a while, I built mine to be able to lug through the scrub and take to competitions so settled on what I think the happy medium for my uses is.
 
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#3,767
I had Berserk GRS once.
Like that stock, but did not like that it is not solid and stiff.
When you lock the bipod and twist it while holding it on the grip, it does bending.
I did make it stiffer, by adding carbon fibre rods in to the front session and epoxy glued it, but it did not get as stiff i would like to be.
In hunting and other use it is very good stock.
tikka berserk.jpg
 
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#3,768
mckchome said:
That's a great looking rifle. Disappointing to hear about the GRS. Given the amount of money it costs!
Click to expand...

Well, hang on a sec. Just because someone was able to use his bipod as a lever to wrench the forearm doesn't mean the thing is no good. A lot of people, including myself, get below half MOA with GRS stocks, they work just fine. All depends on your application, of course, but we should be realistic with requirements.

-Stooxie
 
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#3,769
mckchome said:
I hear what you're saying. I've had issues with the springs in internal magazines in the field. Sometimes they seem to wear out. This happened last year on my antelope hunt where the spring would not feed the second round, due to lost spring strength, effectively turning my 300WM into a single feeder. And if there are feeding issues, it is much easier to deal with an external mag than internal. Thankfully, I only needed one shot!
Click to expand...

Anything can happen And usually does. Lol.
I’ve had my Remington 700 for twenty years. It stays loaded at all times all the time. My spring has never caused a problem. You should have been able to tell your spring was weak when loading the rifle as there would have been no resistance when loading the rounds in the mag. Red Flag.

At least in your case it is easy to throw a round in the loading port and push the bolt forward. Try that if you happen to lose a mag in the field. Not easy. Losing a mag isn’t very likely though. It’s about as likely as a hinged floor plate spring causing problems. The main reason I prefer the hinged floorplate compared to most magazine systems is the smooth bottom of the rifle. Magazines do get in the way. Even short ones. I can see how some guys like you feel the complete opposite. Like everything else, personal preference.
 
#3,770
mckchome said:
I completely agree with your ergonomic argument, however, that having a mag sticking out of the bottom isn't ideal for hunting! I also just like using my competition guns in hunting contexts. I spend so much time behind the comp guns and have such ahigh degree of familiarity with them that I just prefer them when hunting, just in case I need to make a split second decision/correction.
Click to expand...
I think it’s more “I have been banging steel with this rifle and wouldn’t it be cool to kill shit with it”.
And I feel the same. Lol
 
#3,773
Many of our customers argue about wanting a drop plate as being flush underneath but they actually aren't because the trigger guard sticks out anyway. I like magazines that are flush with the trigger guard but don't even mind longer ones. They are mostly in the perfect balanced position to grab a rifle and walk/run barrel down without it slipping through when wet. The ten shot CTR mag or 5 shot aics are just about perfect. I have not yet had a drop plate rifle that fed as reliably as an AICS mag that is why all my rifles are changed. Sako, Mauser Arg, Tikka, Howa have aics. Sometimes a mag sticking out is a good resting point in an awkward position, I often shove my binos under as a third leg when on the bipod. When it comes to stocks they should be stiff and ambidextrous, got to be able to shoot left or right.

Pic one of my favourite hunting rifles:
20181104_110109.jpg
CTR 308 with 3-20 Ultra short PMII, E-Lite Carbon stock . Calf taken at 550m.
edi
 
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#3,774
mckchome said:
Yes, of course, are correct. Just because it flexes doesn't mean its bad, but this isn't what I would want from such a high dollar item. Do you see an advantage to having a stock that flexes when torqued? Maybe so, I just don't see it.
Click to expand...

No, just that there's not a one to one correlation. A Berserk is $620, and can be found for less. I've looked into the others, I'd happily buy a Manners or McMillan, etc, but I can't seem to configure a fully adjustable one without spending significantly more money. Some of these hunter stocks are pushing $1,200. With the Berserk I don't have to bed and I have full adjustability in a very high quality stock.

If there's an offering I am missing I would be totally grateful for a link! As a ground blind hunter I have no use/need/desire for a chassis.

-Stooxie
 
#3,775
ejg said:
Many of our customers argue about wanting a drop plate as being flush underneath but they actually aren't because the trigger guard sticks out anyway. I like magazines that are flush with the trigger guard but don't even mind longer ones. They are mostly in the perfect balanced position to grab a rifle and walk/run barrel down without it slipping through when wet. The ten shot CTR mag or 5 shot aics are just about perfect. I have not yet had a drop plate rifle that fed as reliably as an AICS mag that is why all my rifles are changed. Sako, Mauser Arg, Tikka, Howa have aics. Sometimes a mag sticking out is a good resting point in an awkward position, I often shove my binos under as a third leg when on the bipod. When it comes to stocks they should be stiff and ambidextrous, got to be able to shoot left or right.

Pic one of my favourite hunting rifles: View attachment 6995828CTR 308 with 3-20 Ultra short PMII, E-Lite Carbon stock . Calf taken at 550m.
edi
Click to expand...
Take the can off the end and the balance point is where the mag is. Nice rifle and I do like my ctr as is. Mag and all.
I have been thinking of picking up a tikka T3x Cin either .308 or 6.5. Might do it when one comes across in the exchange on here.
 
#3,776
silhouette said:
How light have you set the trigger? I like a 10oz trigger and Bix'n Andy is the only one I can find that can reliably do that. I'm just a bit hesitant to sell a kidney to get one. Here in Australia they want about $800.
Click to expand...

snaaap!!! haha....mine is set at 10oz :cool:. shot my local series finals and the PRS Finale with it (both were very dusty), flawless and consistent. paid about the same here in South Africa :oops:.
 
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#3,777
mckchome said:
That totally makes sense. I think you're correct about the adjustment options with Berserk. It's super high value. The KRG Bravo chassis (looks more like a traditional stock) might be an option since it seems to have the adjustment features. Magpul hasn't made anything for the Tikkas yet, right?
Click to expand...
Their AICS mags don't work with Tikkas as it is. Too much material in feed lip area.
 
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#3,778
Im thinking of spending way to much at KRG... Anyone have any discount certs or codes? Likely no but I thought i would throw it out... Getting ready to upgrade my CTR and 2 TRG's... Son also wants a Bravo - $$$
 
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#3,782
This might be a TMI moment but I agreed with the wife to get a vasectomy if I can purchase a bolt action rifle under $2500 so I picked out a Tikka T3X TAC A1 6.5 creedmoor. Since it's winter, Dr. said to lay low for a week and I was sick of seeing black so I decided to strip my rifle down for cerakoting. Can someone help me figure out how to remove the scope picatinny rail and rear swivel sling stud before I break out my drill and drill bits? Seems like both scope rail and swivel stud are pinned or staked in. (yes, I've removed the 4 torx screws and 5mm socket head screw from the rail already). Any help or advice for a new Tikka owner would rock my world.
Tikka.jpg
 
#3,786
AznTactical said:
This might be a TMI moment but I agreed with the wife to get a vasectomy if I can purchase a bolt action rifle under $2500 so I picked out a Tikka T3X TAC A1 6.5 creedmoor. Since it's winter, Dr. said to lay low for a week and I was sick of seeing black so I decided to strip my rifle down for cerakoting. Can someone help me figure out how to remove the scope picatinny rail and rear swivel sling stud before I break out my drill and drill bits? Seems like both scope rail and swivel stud are pinned or staked in. (yes, I've removed the 4 torx screws and 5mm socket head screw from the rail already). Any help or advice for a new Tikka owner would rock my world. gaView attachment 6996942
Click to expand...

I've read people are laying a steam iron (no steam) on the rail to expand the metal then tapping with a mallet (no easy). The glue is something else to get off. You better not want to use that rail again. Most people do it to replace the pic rail with one have a xxMOA tilt.
 
#3,787
I've heard the glue gives way quite easily when heated to 170 - 180 degrees. I bought a take-off CTR rail and I was able to get the residual glue off the back with acetone. I am looking for more Tikka take-off rails, I think they are great.

-Stooxie
 
#3,788
AznTactical said:
This might be a TMI moment but I agreed with the wife to get a vasectomy if I can purchase a bolt action rifle under $2500 so I picked out a Tikka T3X TAC A1 6.5 creedmoor. Since it's winter, Dr. said to lay low for a week and I was sick of seeing black so I decided to strip my rifle down for cerakoting. Can someone help me figure out how to remove the scope picatinny rail and rear swivel sling stud before I break out my drill and drill bits? Seems like both scope rail and swivel stud are pinned or staked in. (yes, I've removed the 4 torx screws and 5mm socket head screw from the rail already). Any help or advice for a new Tikka owner would rock my world. View attachment 6996942
Click to expand...
I had to use a heat gun to get the rail off, just a cheap purchase at Home Depot, maybe $30.
 
#3,791
The TAC A1 is a different rail than the CTR rail. There are no good replacements for it right now. If you are going to have it the same color as the action, I would leave it on. If you need more MOA, get a one piece mount with it built in, like a Spuhr or an ARC.
 
#3,792
patriotnation said:
The 2 pins release when heated also. Just lift up carefully with a putty knife or something. Also you can use a scope mount to have something to grab onto, wear heavy gloves if it's hot of course.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip for the scope mount rail! Last night I was able to use a door trim removal tool to slowly rock the monopod's picatinny rail off the buttstock. The pin is still in the buttstock and I'll try to remove it tonight.
 
#3,793
Had a nice package arrive yesterday. Two German Gun Stock Rangers from Thomas Graf. My son dropped his 270 T3 in his and I put my T3 Varmint in mine. I used Mountain Tactical bottom metal as my Varmint had CDI on it when I bought it used. I have my 20" CTR in there for comparison. These are a pound lighter than the Predator that my CTR is in. I ordered a RRS HC-Pro clamp so a Harris will work on the pic rail on the Ranger.

We are both planning on using their Raptor stock for match rifles in the future.
1-3-19 053.jpg
1-3-19 058.jpg
1-3-19 054.jpg
 
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#3,794
260284 said:
The TAC A1 is a different rail than the CTR rail. There are no good replacements for it right now. If you are going to have it the same color as the action, I would leave it on. If you need more MOA, get a one piece mount with it built in, like a Spuhr or an ARC.
Click to expand...

I'm removing the scope picatinny rail for cerakoting reasons only. She'll be wearing a RRS Uni-mount in 20moa. Do you own a TAC A1 and removed the scope picatinny rail?
 
#3,795
AznTactical said:
I'm removing the scope picatinny rail for cerakoting reasons only. She'll be wearing a RRS Uni-mount in 20moa. Do you own a TAC A1 and removed the scope picatinny rail?
Click to expand...

I do not own one, but I have seen posts where guys tried to replace it with a 20 moa rail and they don't match up with the handguard at all. You picked a good mount.

I used a heat gun on my CTR rail. Took about 10 minutes.
 
#3,799
alaskalanche said:
It’s this one:
https://www.stockysstocks.com/carbon-fiber-lay-up-tikka-t3-bush-hunter-stocks.html

I had pillars installed as well as bedded it. I do like the ergos better than the OEM stocks. For just under $500 for it and zero wait time I am happy with it.

Only have shot a couple manners and this one is still very new to me with less than 20 rounds down it but initial thoughts I have zero regret.

The rifle is 6.0 pounds on the nose naked and 8.3 with ATACR on there without suppressor.View attachment 6997076View attachment 6997078
Click to expand...

What brand of barrel and what caliber?
 
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