Tikka T3 Thread

This one was the sporter option. So it had to be opened up to accommodate the fatty proof barrel.

I purchased a second one with the varmint/tactical contour channel so we will see how much it needs to be opened up for the 18” 6.5 prc carbon barrel that’s going in there. Basically wanting 24” barrel 6.5 cm performance with 6” less barrel which isn’t a bad place to be.

Cool man thanks. Did you do the work yourself and how’d you do it?
 
These girls will have a new partner next week :p
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Tikka T3 6.5 prc , bartlein 24” Med Palma.
 

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So I just bought a T3x CTR in 6.5. Got a KRG W3 chassis coming in soon. I’m looking to put a Razor HD gen ii 4.5x27 on it. Wondering what ring height I should get.

Should I get a Spuhr mount or try and remove the stock rail?

How difficult is it to remove the stock rail?

This will be my first long range rifle so any help is appreciated.
 
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I swapped the OEM 0 MOA Pic Rail to an Area 419 20 MOA rail and used a 1k watt heat gun to warm up the rail and soften the bedding compound. I had the barreled action out of the stock and in a padded vise, the attaching screws came out without much force, heated the rail to a bit beyond hot to the touch, and used a wooden door shim / wedge an a hammer to knock the rail off of the action. All of the bedding compound went with the rail, so I was fortunate. Cleaned the mating surfaces with brake cleaner an installed the new rail with some blue loctite on the attaching screws.. About a 15 minute job, at most.
I swapped the Athlon Ares BTR and rings from my Savage with a 20 MOA EGW rail onto my Tikka / Area 419 20 MOA rail, today I laser boresighted it at 50 yards it it was about 0.8mils up from the Savage 100 yard actual zero. We’ll see where it zeros during tomorrow’s range trip.
 
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Very interested in both of these GGS stocks. Now that you've had a chance to compare them next to one another, what are your thoughts on each? Pros and cons? Which seems more suitable for a dual steel/hunt role?

Nik

I had surgery on my left arm the 27th, so I haven't shot anything yet. I have a 3 lb weight limit on my arm for 4 more weeks. I do like how light the Ranger is compared to the Predator. I used the Predator for PRS matches with a 23.5" medium palma Bartlein last year. It fits me good, but I need more weight to help with recoil control for PRS. The Predator would work with a heavier barrel, but it was 12.5 lbs with the suppressor and no magazine. I might end up putting the CTR in the Ranger with the 20" barrel for a lighter hunting rifle and putting the varmint in the Predator.

I have another Tikka that I bought for a dedicated match rifle build. I am going varmint contour, 26" in a 22 BR. Their Raptor would be the best choice for a PRS stock as it is the heaviest. I am wanting at least 16-18 lbs all in, even with the 22 BR.
 
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Well it’s all done...for now.

Just one 6 pounds even with a 20 moa pic rail, just under 8.25 pounds with 4-16 NF ATACR, and just under 9 pounds with an TBAC ultra 7 on there.

After barrel break in initial load work ups showed it likes 212 eldx with a nice flat node around 2860 fps which isn’t to shabby from the 22” proof barrel.


View attachment 7002105

Bare rifle:
View attachment 7002106

With the NF 4-16 on there:
View attachment 7002109

And of course to SHHHHH the beast :)
View attachment 7002111

Beautiful rifle. What’s the best way to get one of these stocks in the US? It’s a southland from NZ correct?
 
Is that a Mountain Tactical rail?

Love the build, I have a few 6.5 8 twist Proof Sendero light barrels (20” and 22”) and am debating 6.5 Creed VS 6.5 PRC...

It’s a Anarchy Outdoors rail actually. I have a few of both and both see good quality and employ the recoil lug on the top of the action.

I have a 20” 6.5 proof on backorder as well. Like you I am trying to decide PRC or Creedmoor.....logical side of me says Creedmoor since I already am setup with dies and brass the fun side of me wants to try the 6.5 PRC to essentially get 24” 6.5 CM barrel in a 20” barrel.

Either way I have one more of these stocks left for this project we shall see.
 
Can anyone with experience with both tell me how the Timney two stage triggers compare to the Tac A1 trigger? I’m debating setting up a rifle with a Timney and and MPA chassis vs just buying the A1. The A1 trigger feels great at the store but I’m not crazy about the chassis.
 
Has anyone heard of tikka will be offering the CTR in .223 for 2019? I see they offer it in the TAC A1. Interested in the CTR. Thanks.



A few months ago I messaged Tikka on FB where they told me definitively "first half of 2019". Then a guy (can't remember his name) from Whittaker guns tells me in December they're already being brought in under the Sako Select program. Then I asked Beretta and was told none are being imported. o_O
 
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I need advice on aftermarket chassis for Tikka T3x CTR. I want it to be light enough for hunting (i.e. not heavier than original stock) but at the same time I want the m-lok forend so I can grab the barrel without the risk of burning yourself. Any such chassis around?

My GGS Ranger is about 2.5-2.7 lbs. Need to put it on digital scales. My .223 varmint weighs about 13 lbs in the Ranger with the suppressor, a GGS bipod, the 4.5-18 LRHS, and a full 10 round MDT magazine.
 
Need some help with a T3X CTR in factory stock. I took the CTR out of the stock to adjust the trigger, holy crap it's nice, and when I went to return the action into the stock, it seemed to pivot (rock back and forth from muzzle to breach) before adding the screws. Did it not seat onto the recoil lug properly? I couldn't get it to seat right and was worried about undue stress on the action, so I hand-tightened the screws and came here for help.
Is there a trick to getting these things to seat properly in the stock?
 
Need some help with a T3X CTR in factory stock. I took the CTR out of the stock to adjust the trigger, holy crap it's nice, and when I went to return the action into the stock, it seemed to pivot (rock back and forth from muzzle to breach) before adding the screws. Did it not seat onto the recoil lug properly? I couldn't get it to seat right and was worried about undue stress on the action, so I hand-tightened the screws and came here for help.
Is there a trick to getting these things to seat properly in the stock?

Take your time to get the action mounted properly to the stock.
You are good to go, when the action is lined to the stock and the over pressure hole is similar to this picture.
I dont think you have done any harm to your action, just take it apart and resembled with care.
maxresdefault.jpg
 
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Need some help with a T3X CTR in factory stock. I took the CTR out of the stock to adjust the trigger, holy crap it's nice, and when I went to return the action into the stock, it seemed to pivot (rock back and forth from muzzle to breach) before adding the screws. Did it not seat onto the recoil lug properly? I couldn't get it to seat right and was worried about undue stress on the action, so I hand-tightened the screws and came here for help.
Is there a trick to getting these things to seat properly in the stock?

Another simple trick is to put a tiny piece of tape on the stock where the recoil lug is and do the same on the receiver where the slot is. Then you line up the pieces of tape and it should sit down.

Another way is to put it in slightly forward (like a 1/4"), press down and gently slide it back. You'll see and hear when it seats.

Once you get it a couple of times it won't be an issue.

-Stooxie
 
20" 308, recently built for a <600m general purpose / hunting rifle. Deer, hogs, and coyotes in my neck of the woods are typically taken at less than 100m, with the majority in dense woodlands/swamps at less than 40m. This drove my optics choice. I'm not a great rifleman (came here to learn), but it managed just over an inch with crappy 150gr AE FMJ and 6x optic. This will work perfect for its intended use. Very happy with how it turned out.

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So I just bought a T3x CTR in 6.5. Got a KRG W3 chassis coming in soon. I’m looking to put a Razor HD gen ii 4.5x27 on it. Wondering what ring height I should get.

Should I get a Spuhr mount or try and remove the stock rail?

How difficult is it to remove the stock rail?

This will be my first long range rifle so any help is appreciated.
Sent you a pm. I went with 1.35” sphur
 

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So I just bought a T3x CTR in 6.5. Got a KRG W3 chassis coming in soon. I’m looking to put a Razor HD gen ii 4.5x27 on it. Wondering what ring height I should get.

Should I get a Spuhr mount or try and remove the stock rail?

How difficult is it to remove the stock rail?

This will be my first long range rifle so any help is appreciated.

Heat the factory rail with a heat gun and/or use a soldering iron to heat each screw and it comes off no problem. I have a 56mm scope on a CTR with a 20 moa rail and 1" Badger rings. I could have gone lower, but my next barrel is a varmint profile and I will have the Vortex Defenders on it. The Spuhr is really nice, but mine is more of a budget build.