Blackhawk Swivel Stud Picatinny Rail Adapter on Amazon. It worked great on my CTR when I was using the factory stock.
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I'm looking for a chassis for a 20 inch Tikka CTR that enables an over-barrel suppressor to go into the tube forend. Or rather, I want the forend to encapsulate part of the suppressor, but without touching it of course. Any such chassis around?
(and yes, this is purely because of aesthetic reasons. If you advise against it, please say so)
(and yes, this is purely because of aesthetic reasons. If you advise against it, please say so)
Is some one still saying, that KRG Bravo chassis is aint sexy, BS 
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ARC. They make good stuff. You can pull the scooe and have no signs of ring marks.
Yeah, they're good as well mate, but I was referring to the venison on the walls
Yeah, they're good as well mate, but I was referring to the venison on the walls
??
My son shot the 12 point with his RPR 3 years ago. I shot the old buck on the right two seasons ago. Lots of TC pictures of him for months, all in the night. Finally saw him at 1000 yards very early next to last day of rifle season. Sat 1/2 mile closer and shot him at 150 yards that night. 9-1/2 years old, teeth about gone, and had 15 points. Lots of junk around the bases, split brows on his left pointing straight back.
That's gold mate, that's an old buck. The taxidermy job is mint. Shot one a similar age last year, wiley old bastard, took two in the engine room and still steamed off. He was a juggernaught. Was a sambar.
He's just posted on Facebook saying hes about to take orders again...
So don't wait EuroOptic just order from Sterk? Or is he shipping to US retailers?
I ship to individuals and distributors.
Anyone have any advice for extremely heavy bolt lift? I have a Tikka in 223 that I am setting up as a trainer. I have a Sterk bolt handle and shroud, PVA barrel, KRG Bravo etc.
The bolt lift is ABSURDLY heavy compared to another tikka I shot in .308. It's absolutely impossible to keep the gun on target while cycling the bolt, even with the added leverage of the really nice Sterk bolt handle. I just thought this was a Tikka thing until I shot my friends rifle.
I dont see any galling on the lugs, and the lift is the same with or without bolt shroud. I have greased all the cocking surfaces etc and it still takes one hell of a lot of effort on cocking bolt lift. On non-cocking lift the damned bolt feels like its spring loaded upward, but on cocking (even empty chamber) I basically have to hold the rifle with my off hand on the action/scope and really muscle the bolt handle.
Anything I can try would be appreciated. Finding things like spare bolts/springs etc looks to be more than the damned rifle even cost.
The bolt lift is ABSURDLY heavy compared to another tikka I shot in .308. It's absolutely impossible to keep the gun on target while cycling the bolt, even with the added leverage of the really nice Sterk bolt handle. I just thought this was a Tikka thing until I shot my friends rifle.
I dont see any galling on the lugs, and the lift is the same with or without bolt shroud. I have greased all the cocking surfaces etc and it still takes one hell of a lot of effort on cocking bolt lift. On non-cocking lift the damned bolt feels like its spring loaded upward, but on cocking (even empty chamber) I basically have to hold the rifle with my off hand on the action/scope and really muscle the bolt handle.
Anything I can try would be appreciated. Finding things like spare bolts/springs etc looks to be more than the damned rifle even cost.
I just responded to the other thread where you mentioned this. But since it seems you've already greased the main surface of interest, I'd call Tikka CS and see if they could offer any suggestions. I left a voicemail for their lead gunsmith on the issue I had a year or so ago and he called me back the same day and we talked for probably a good 10 minutes about the issue I was having. That guy has forgotten more about firearms repair/maintenance than I'll ever know.
I'll try that but since the gun has been modified I would imagine the term "go pound sand" will apply.
How has it been modified that would effect bolt lift?
I've had really good luck with Tikka CS. Especially if at least up front, you just want to talk with someone about what could be causing it, I doubt they'll have an issue with trying to discuss the issue. My biggest problem with Tikka CS is that I think their warranty is only for like 2 years after purchase, so that could be the only real problem in getting it fixed if you can't fix it on your own.
One more question though - what kind of grease/lubricant did you use on the engagement surfaces? That can definitely make a difference. You're not in the Dallas area, are you? I wouldn't mind bringing mine and meeting up to take a look at it if Tikka CS can't help.
It hasn’t been modified in a way that would effect bolt lift, and the lift is the same as it’s always been since it was new. But it has been modified and normally that means any service is out the door, and understandably so.
I guess all I'm saying is as long as you haven't done anything that would impact bolt lift, you could discuss the issue and if necessary, just send them the bolt and they'd never know if it had been modded outside of that at all. I guess my gun was stock when I had service done, but I definitely don't recall ever having been asked that question by Tikka CS. The only thing they asked about was when I'd bought it. I didn't have an exact date, so they just looked up manufacture date by serial number.
Can you try your 223 bolt in your 308 rifle to make sure the bolt lift issue travels with the bolt and not the gun? As long as that's the case, all you should have to send in is the bolt, if you can't get it fixed with a conversation on the phone.
Wait a second, doesn't the barrel affect bolt lift? When putting on a new barrel, you screw it in on a headspace gauge until it touches and the bolt lift effort is where you want it. If you screw the barrel in too tight the bolt lift will become very difficult, especially when chambered and even more so when fired. This is aside from the obvious potential headspace issues.
Is it possible that whoever installed the PVA barrel screwed it in just a bit too much?
-Stooxie
Is it possible that whoever installed the PVA barrel screwed it in just a bit too much?
-Stooxie
The bolt was the same before I changed the barrel. My assumption at the time was just “this is how a Tikka feels I guess, kinda sucks” until I shot the .308.
I’ll swap the bolts and see if the problem follows.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
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Ive got a CTR that has the same issue. I had contacted customer service and had the rifle sent in to be inspected. They were very responsive and put it through a thorough inspection with a two week turn around. End result is that it was within spec and “is what it is”.
I haven’t been able to put much time behind the gun since but I am hoping that use free’s it up a bit over time.
I also got a handle and shroud from Sterk and discovered that there is some inconsistency in the OD of the rear portion of the Tikka bolt body over which the shroud will mate. The Sterk shrouds are finely machined to have just enough clearance for most cases, but oddballs like mine were too much. I had to lap them together to get rid of the drag, which felt like cray heavy bolt lift. Worth checking if the Sterk shroud causes the same issue on the 223 bolt - it did not in my case and once I measured the bolt bodies I knew why.
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I’m wanting to make my ctr a shorty 16.5 and trying to decide to cut the barrel down or replace with a new one.
I know tikka barrels are typically slower which is why I’m not immediately just chopping the factory barrel. I have a manners stock on order for the ctr contour and was wondering what contours are close to the factory barrel.
I know tikka barrels are typically slower which is why I’m not immediately just chopping the factory barrel. I have a manners stock on order for the ctr contour and was wondering what contours are close to the factory barrel.
I think a Sendero profile is pretty close... though I think you can get a new barrel made to CTR contour from many places.
If your factory tube isn’t shot out and doesn’t get destroyed in the removal process, I may be interested in it.
If your factory tube isn’t shot out and doesn’t get destroyed in the removal process, I may be interested in it.
You are 100% correct that the Tikka bolt bodies are not perfectly round. The dovetail cut out and cocking ramp are machined before heat treatment (easier on tools) so they heat up and cool slightly unevenly. Factory plastic shrouds will flex easily as well as t3x 'alloy' shrouds are super loose (spring in shroud required to keep tension to stop rattle).
Check for any wear/shiny spots in the first internal lip of the shroud that wraps around the back of the not-so-round bolt. I think the OP mentioned even without shroud its still heavy though... Not sure if polishing the cocking ramp helps? But it can be caused by a few things including headspace as already mentioned too.
Light palma is very close to the CTR profile, almost "rem varmint light"
It’s got 120 rounds down the tube and I cut it from 24” to 19” . I should have just gone all the way but I read too much here and got nervous on losing too much speed. Got some 130’s loaded and will try them this weekend
I’m looking at a proof 16.5 sendero or a Brux, Bartlein, etc in a ctr contour ish
I’m going to turn this into a fun hunting rifle and do a dedicated bench rifle later
Yes, tried with NO bolt shroud and still heavy.
In what manner should I polish the ramps? With a dremel?
One would think that headspace causing the heavy lift would make it heavy all the time. On non-cocking lift the bolt handle feels almost spring loaded upward. On cocking it’s like ripping the damn thing apart.
Just in the slight off-chance. Your front action screw is not a bit long & rubbing off the bolt lug?
edi
I have Tikka T3X TAC A1 action/barrel in my KRG Bravo set, also Sterk bolt handle and other gear on it.
With factory brass, never fired it open the bolt like a butter, check the video.
But once it is fired and neck sized, the bolt is heavier to open and does work pritty close what you just writed.
To me it smells like a screw (action screws or pic rail screws is too long and interfering with an edge on the bolt. I had a similar issue on an old Sako a few years ago. The Tikka action is supposed to be smooth. Something is wrong.
If it were this it wouldn’t only do it on cocking bolt lift. Non cocking is smooth as silk.
It’s hard to video “effort” but when I’m back home in a few weeks I will. I’m thinking of getting a pull weight meter so I can compare a few guns.
I have 5 tikkas and my 7mag has the lightest bolt lift. I switched bolts into different guns and nothing changed. my theory is some firing pin springs are a little heavier than others so when you cock open the bolt to open and compress that spring thats where you feel the difference in bolt lifts. Also if you really crank down the trigger holding screw it will make the cock on open of the bolt feel very heavy. I have a weatherby vanguard that the trigger can't be screwed in too tight or it will significantly increase the bolt lift cocking the firing pin spring.
I’d love to try another spring if Tikka parts were available ever or remotely reasonably priced.
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Took my Tikka with new Proof Research tube out to see what it could do. It didn’t disappoint. Bore sighted with 3 rounds to get a close zero. The picture below are shots 4-9 ( .394”) with Hornady American Gunner 140’s (5 shot sd was 10.3). Had I not pulled the last shot to the right, would have been less.
The next group @ .301” was 140 ELD match. SD @ 10.9 for 5 shots. This barrel is fast, too! Loaded some charges of RL16 and at 41.8 I had to stop due to pressure, but it was 2905 fps! 40.6 is probably where I will land with 2780 fps.
Highly impressed with this Proof Stainless barrel and the work of Andy @ The Firm Rifles Inc.
The next group @ .301” was 140 ELD match. SD @ 10.9 for 5 shots. This barrel is fast, too! Loaded some charges of RL16 and at 41.8 I had to stop due to pressure, but it was 2905 fps! 40.6 is probably where I will land with 2780 fps.
Highly impressed with this Proof Stainless barrel and the work of Andy @ The Firm Rifles Inc.
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I had that problem with a 2015 model CTR. I polished the cocking surface that interfaces with the firing pin. Use an emery cloth or a dremel polishing attachment until there is no more stickiness/gritiness to the bolt. Lubricate well after and you should be good to go. If you need a picture of the surface let me know.
Finally hoping this will be soon I’d preorder right now if so.
