Tikka T3 Thread

Name your favourite.
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I had that problem with a 2015 model CTR. I polished the cocking surface that interfaces with the firing pin. Use an emery cloth or a dremel polishing attachment until there is no more stickiness/gritiness to the bolt. Lubricate well after and you should be good to go. If you need a picture of the surface let me know.

I would love a picture. Thanks!
 
I would love a picture. Thanks!
Where my thumb is...polish the pin bearing surface and the bolt surface. You can see silver instead of black where I over polished a bit. Just make sure they both have no burs or any areas that catch. Removing metal is not really the goal...just smoothing and getting a better surface finish.
 

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Sweet looking rig you got:cool:.
How did you do those followers and that spacer to the magazine?

Thanks, I tried a few different stocks but realised I really like the AICS more.

I cnc milled them out of some oil filled nylon sheet I had here, the 5 round needed a little hit with a dremel to clear the ribs on the mag which are different to the 10 round one so I added that to the drawing for the next one. It took a lot of measuring and CAD and a few runs in the mill to get the profile right but they work really well. My 3d printer is a basket case so I ran them in the mill. I'll order another few mags once I run these for a while and make sure there's no issues.

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I've used the AI plastic 223 mags before as well as the 5 round magpul ones for a 6BR Remington and Howa but neither fit well in a Tikka.

A couple of little jobs still to go, I'll fit a Sterk swept handle and shroud and make another brake that fits a little neater then cerakote the shiny bits.
 
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I'm not counting the mirage band screw. Look at the picture. 2 up front and 3 in the rear.

My mistake, usually people ask about the mirage band screw. When Tikka updated the T3 to the T3x, they added an extra screw hole for the scope bases. Other than the extra 5th screw, the scope bases remained the same as far as screw spacings go. It's why the aftermarket scope bases work with both the T3 and T3x. In other words, it isn't a must have or anything.
 
Thanks, I tried a few different stocks but realised I really like the AICS more.

I cnc milled them out of some oil filled nylon sheet I had here, the 5 round needed a little hit with a dremel to clear the ribs on the mag which are different to the 10 round one so I added that to the drawing for the next one. It took a lot of measuring and CAD and a few runs in the mill to get the profile right but they work really well. My 3d printer is a basket case so I ran them in the mill. I'll order another few mags once I run these for a while and make sure there's no issues.

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I've used the AI plastic 223 mags before as well as the 5 round magpul ones for a 6BR Remington and Howa but neither fit well in a Tikka.

A couple of little jobs still to go, I'll fit a Sterk swept handle and shroud and make another brake that fits a little neater then cerakote the shiny bits.

Great work there sir :)
 
I have heard the T3X CTR factory rail is a real pain to get off, any pointers from those that have removed theirs?

Looking for a 50MOA rail but seems that is very uncommon
 
I have heard the T3X CTR factory rail is a real pain to get off, any pointers from those that have removed theirs?

Looking for a 50MOA rail but seems that is very uncommon

Use a heat gun or take a soldering iron to each screw before you break them loose. I used a heat gun on mine and it was easy to get off. I spent more time getting the glue/loctite off of the receiver.

Unless you are shooting ELR, a 20 MOA rail is more than enough. I can dial to over 1400 yards with my Bushnell LRSTi with a 20 MOA rail and I am shooting a 140 ELDM at 2830fps.
 
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Use a heat gun or take a soldering iron to each screw before you break them loose. I used a heat gun on mine and it was easy to get off. I spent more time getting the glue/loctite off of the receiver.

Unless you are shooting ELR, a 20 MOA rail is more than enough. I can dial to over 1400 yards with my Bushnell LRSTi with a 20 MOA rail and I am shooting a 140 ELDM at 2830fps.

I have taken the rifle out to a mile. I currently have 147gr ELDMs going at 2675 with the factory barrel. This requires 51 minutes elevation dialed (all I have with a 0 moa rail) and about 38 minutes additional holdover.

A newer barrel would fix this problem but it's so accurate I refuse to replace it until it starts failing

Optic is 4-16x50 ATACR FFP with an advertised 110 moa of elevation adjustment
 
I have taken the rifle out to a mile. I currently have 147gr ELDMs going at 2675 with the factory barrel. This requires 51 minutes elevation dialed (all I have with a 0 moa rail) and about 38 minutes additional holdover.

A newer barrel would fix this problem but it's so accurate I refuse to replace it until it starts failing

Optic is 4-16x50 ATACR FFP with an advertised 110 moa of elevation adjustment

https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/rings/xtr-signature-rings

You could always use a 20 MOA rail and the Burris rings with the inserts to get you more MOA. I have a set on my 223 Varmint, but I have them at 0 MOA as I have a 20 MOA rail. They are very reasonable in price and have been solid on my rifle.

My CTR started as a 20" 260. I was getting 2715 with 140s. I went 6.5 Creed in a 23.5" Bartlein and I am shooting a mild load with Re16 and Peterson brass. If you can find Re16 or even Re26, they both give higher velocity than H4350. A friend is getting almost 2800 with the 140 ELDM, Peterson brass, and the factory 24" 6.5 Creed barrel.
 
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https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/rings/xtr-signature-rings

You could always use a 20 MOA rail and the Burris rings with the inserts to get you more MOA. I have a set on my 223 Varmint, but I have them at 0 MOA as I have a 20 MOA rail. They are very reasonable in price and have been solid on my rifle.

My CTR started as a 20" 260. I was getting 2715 with 140s. I went 6.5 Creed in a 23.5" Bartlein and I am shooting a mild load with Re16 and Peterson brass. If you can find Re16 or even Re26, they both give higher velocity than H4350. A friend is getting almost 2800 with the 140 ELDM, Peterson brass, and the factory 24" 6.5 Creed barrel.

RL16 is definitely the answer for the speed issue with Tikkas. My factory 20” barrel was going 2680 with a suppressor

Factory barrel:
42.4 grains RL16
Hornady brass, 140 hornady hpbt, cci200
2680fps

New Proof 24” barrel:
40.6 grains RL16
Hornady Brass, cci200, 140 hornady hpbt
2797 fps

My factory was plenty accurate, just wanted more speed
 
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Nice rig.
How do you like that Bushnell?
I am about to have that same Elite Tactical DMR II with illuminated G3 reticle.
Would like to hear your thoughts of the scope.
This is my first DMR. I have 3 of the FFP 6-24 ERS scopes with G2 reticle. I don't have hardly any time behind this new PRO model. Just getting a zero. Initial thoughts are glass is a hair better and turrets are much better.
 
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I took mine to the range today to give it bit of a run. All seems good just running the load and seating depth I use in my other 6BR which makes it easy (same reamer, same twist rate). I didn't take the chrono but it's a little faster with 4" more barrel, .1 mil less elevation at 500m. I actually ran the barrel in which is a first, shoot then clean for 10 rounds. The second 5 shots at 100m below which I was pretty happy with given a clean between each one:
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All the cleaning was a bit of a waste, no copper came out so I think it's good to go now. Hardy make a very nice barrel. This is my first Tikka, I've got a couple of rifles on Tac 30 actions but this thing is so much smoother to cycle! Mags worked brilliantly, no misfeeds at all.

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I'm getting 2780 fps with 140 ELDM, Hornady brass, 210M primers, and H4350 on the factory 24" 6.5 CM barrel. Mine was super slow with factory ammo, but my handloads have way more speed.

Still need lots of adjustment to get out very far since I'm darn near sea level, but doing what I can on my part.
 
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The mccrees that is

The cheek piece is actually effective I have the G10, but have the magpul prs on mine. Honestly, if I had to do it over, I would have gone with the McRees rear end. The chassis is well balanced though with my 20" CTR. It is solid, takes a beating, uses the TRG mags well and has a really good lock up mechanism in the folding stock. I highly recommend it.
 

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Just ordered my T3 TAC A1 in .260 Remington, and hope it hits my FFL by week’s end. Can’t wait, and thanks much to a lot of the input in this thread for helping me to finalize my decision.
 
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Nice lookin rifle brother! May I ask how a stock CTR without the can balances in that standard fill Manners? Thank you
Balance is good without the can. About what you'd expect. The can is 17.5oz so with it on I can tell it's a little nose heavy. Can't wait till my Ultra 9 clears. That'll take 6.5oz off the nose