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I had that problem with a 2015 model CTR. I polished the cocking surface that interfaces with the firing pin. Use an emery cloth or a dremel polishing attachment until there is no more stickiness/gritiness to the bolt. Lubricate well after and you should be good to go. If you need a picture of the surface let me know.
Where my thumb is...polish the pin bearing surface and the bolt surface. You can see silver instead of black where I over polished a bit. Just make sure they both have no burs or any areas that catch. Removing metal is not really the goal...just smoothing and getting a better surface finish.I would love a picture. Thanks!
Name your favourite.
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This one for sure, that paint is sick. Bravo seems more practical as well. Definitely have a soft spot for your rifle.
Name your favourite.
Sweet looking rig you got.
How did you do those followers and that spacer to the magazine?
How many screws are on your rail? My lite has 4, but my ctr has 5. The replacement rail has 4 holes also.
I'm not counting the mirage band screw. Look at the picture. 2 up front and 3 in the rear.
Thanks, I tried a few different stocks but realised I really like the AICS more.
I cnc milled them out of some oil filled nylon sheet I had here, the 5 round needed a little hit with a dremel to clear the ribs on the mag which are different to the 10 round one so I added that to the drawing for the next one. It took a lot of measuring and CAD and a few runs in the mill to get the profile right but they work really well. My 3d printer is a basket case so I ran them in the mill. I'll order another few mags once I run these for a while and make sure there's no issues.
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I've used the AI plastic 223 mags before as well as the 5 round magpul ones for a 6BR Remington and Howa but neither fit well in a Tikka.
A couple of little jobs still to go, I'll fit a Sterk swept handle and shroud and make another brake that fits a little neater then cerakote the shiny bits.
I have heard the T3X CTR factory rail is a real pain to get off, any pointers from those that have removed theirs?
Looking for a 50MOA rail but seems that is very uncommon
Use a heat gun or take a soldering iron to each screw before you break them loose. I used a heat gun on mine and it was easy to get off. I spent more time getting the glue/loctite off of the receiver.
Unless you are shooting ELR, a 20 MOA rail is more than enough. I can dial to over 1400 yards with my Bushnell LRSTi with a 20 MOA rail and I am shooting a 140 ELDM at 2830fps.
I have taken the rifle out to a mile. I currently have 147gr ELDMs going at 2675 with the factory barrel. This requires 51 minutes elevation dialed (all I have with a 0 moa rail) and about 38 minutes additional holdover.
A newer barrel would fix this problem but it's so accurate I refuse to replace it until it starts failing
Optic is 4-16x50 ATACR FFP with an advertised 110 moa of elevation adjustment
Not sure on the weight. Only scales I have is for measuring gun powder. Can on it now is a Recce 7. Have a TBAC Ultra 9 pending for itWhat does it weigh as it sits? What suppressor is that?
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/rings/xtr-signature-rings
You could always use a 20 MOA rail and the Burris rings with the inserts to get you more MOA. I have a set on my 223 Varmint, but I have them at 0 MOA as I have a 20 MOA rail. They are very reasonable in price and have been solid on my rifle.
My CTR started as a 20" 260. I was getting 2715 with 140s. I went 6.5 Creed in a 23.5" Bartlein and I am shooting a mild load with Re16 and Peterson brass. If you can find Re16 or even Re26, they both give higher velocity than H4350. A friend is getting almost 2800 with the 140 ELDM, Peterson brass, and the factory 24" 6.5 Creed barrel.
This is my first DMR. I have 3 of the FFP 6-24 ERS scopes with G2 reticle. I don't have hardly any time behind this new PRO model. Just getting a zero. Initial thoughts are glass is a hair better and turrets are much better.Nice rig.
How do you like that Bushnell?
I am about to have that same Elite Tactical DMR II with illuminated G3 reticle.
Would like to hear your thoughts of the scope.
Any one have suggestions for gunsmiths
Looking for a trued up tikka barrled action where I can build a 6.5 cm shorty build
Any one have suggestions for gunsmiths
Looking for a trued up tikka barrled action where I can build a 6.5 cm shorty build
Same here, my smith said all of the T3 actions hes had in the shop were straight as is.I have had 2 Tikka rifles re-barreled. Neither one needed any truing. Your best bet is to buy a used rifle with the bolt face that you need.
What chassis is that?
The mccrees that isCan you and or others give any more pros and cons on this chassis? It looks good (other than the cheek peice looks cheap) with that said I like the price point!
The mccrees that is
Just ordered my T3 TAC A1 in .260 Remington, and hope it hits my FFL by week’s end. Can’t wait, and thanks much to a lot of the input in this thread for helping me to finalize my decision.
Balance is good without the can. About what you'd expect. The can is 17.5oz so with it on I can tell it's a little nose heavy. Can't wait till my Ultra 9 clears. That'll take 6.5oz off the noseNice lookin rifle brother! May I ask how a stock CTR without the can balances in that standard fill Manners? Thank you
KRG Bravo came in today. 20" 6.5 CTR w/ Athlon Ares BTR & Dead Air Sandman