Tikka T3 Thread

[RedDogN8]

Hi all - been reading and reading and reading here. So I'm just posting on a couple of threads to tag them and continue to follow them.

I have two Tikka's. A T3 in 300 WSM as my hunting rifle. Then recently picked up a TSR-1. That's been a project and is my first precision rifle.

TSR-1 in .308
Athlon Cronus BTR 4.5-29 x 56
Badger Rings
Precision Armarment M11 Break
Anarchy Outdoors Shroud
Bolt fluted by LRI
Magpul bi-pod

 

[stereo.pete]

I had a similar thing happen with my T6A except the magazine would not seat empty or full and it was due to the inlet being too deep. I went to home depot and got a few washers to shim between the bottom of the stock and the dbm and it fixed it. That suggestion came from another member here in the thread.

Thank you, this is a great idea!

 

[tevans0707]

Based on Mountain Tactical's website, they no longer make the bottom metal that uses the CTR inlet, and I have reached out to RedSnake to see if there bottom metal will as well. I forgot to mention in my original post that it's a T3X CTR. I'm not sure if CDI would be able to adjust the stock since it's already inlet for a stock CTR bottom metal, I'll reach out to them. Thanks again for your suggestions.

Mountain Tactical still produces short action CTR inlet bottom metal, they are just having some issues with a anodizer right now and should be back on the website shortly.

 

[Conaso]

A1/CTR Bore Centerline to top of Picatinny Rail: 1.25"

 

[Graywolf.260]

You can also put the CTR action in a T3X lite stock and use the factory polymer mags and bottom. The barrel channel in the T3 lite stock will need a bit of widening with a Dremel, and you'll need a metal retaining clip for the mag, which is attached with the T3X light action trigger retaining bolt. This will also save almost a pound. With this set up you can also use the extra long Creedmoor 5 round polymer mags. I am using this for my .260 hunting rifle.

 

[schmi015]

Guys, hopefully you can help me. I have a Tikka T3X CTR bedded into a Manners T6A stock using the stock bottom metal. I have three Tikka 10rd mags, and all three when loaded to ten rounds, fail to see into the bottom metal. This has been an issue that has plagued me for the back half of last season, and now with my first match approaching I'm hoping to find a fix.

If I load eight rounds, the mags seat just fine, but 9-10 and I have issues. Thoughts on how I can fix this issue?

Here's a pic of the rifle with how it's set up.

Try bending your feed lips to open them a little, i tweaked mine and it seems to have made a difference

 

[awpk03s]

With a little free time tonight, I made a brief attempt to remove my factory T3 barrel. Used a Mechforce vise, and a Brownells universal action wrench. Had a 3 foot cheater section of steel galvanized pipe ready to help too.

I think the Brownells wrench engages the receiver flat nicely enough, it should definitely work. I have a PVA rear entry wrench as well, but I’m afraid that will get ruined removing a factory barrel?

Anyway, I got everything tightened down and ready to go and I can’t stop the barrel from slipping/spinning in the leather straps of the barrel vise. As I ran out of time I took it all apart and will try again another time.
What should I put on the barrel or leather straps to stop it spinning? I’ve read powdered sugar, sand, oil, rosin.

What do you all recommend?

 

[schmi015]

rosin

 

[awpk03s]

rosin

Like the powder or the spray? Sorry to sound dumb, I’ve never used the stuff before...

 

[schmi015]

Like the powder or the spray? Sorry to sound dumb, I’ve never used the stuff before...

powdered should work just fine, its great to put on scope rings too.

 

[Stooxie]

With a little free time tonight, I made a brief attempt to remove my factory T3 barrel. Used a Mechforce vise, and a Brownells universal action wrench. Had a 3 foot cheater section of steel galvanized pipe ready to help too.

I think the Brownells wrench engages the receiver flat nicely enough, it should definitely work. I have a PVA rear entry wrench as well, but I’m afraid that will get ruined removing a factory barrel?

Anyway, I got everything tightened down and ready to go and I can’t stop the barrel from slipping/spinning in the leather straps of the barrel vise. As I ran out of time I took it all apart and will try again another time.
What should I put on the barrel or leather straps to stop it spinning? I’ve read powdered sugar, sand, oil, rosin.

What do you all recommend?

The leather straps are worthless, use a few sheets of copy paper instead. Will hold solid as a rock. Also make sure grasping onto a relatively flat part of the barrel. Support the barrel just in front of the receiver if you have to so that the whole thing doesn't flex when you apply torque.

-Stooxie

 

[awpk03s]

Thanks guys! Ordered some rosin powder, and will try the copy paper (I remember reading that too before).

 

[jmsdad]

Try index card and toilet paper tube. Also a 2-3lb dead blow hammer

 

[Macca]

Check out post #4503

 

[260284]

Thanks guys! Ordered some rosin powder, and will try the copy paper (I remember reading that too before).

Try letting Kroil soak into the threads from the inside of the action. I hung mine barrel down in a padded shop vise for 2 weeks with Kroil on it. Came loose with the inside action wrench. Kroil was halfway down the barrel threads.

 

[Stooxie]

Try letting Kroil soak into the threads from the inside of the action. I hung mine barrel down in a padded shop vise for 2 weeks with Kroil on it. Came loose with the inside action wrench. Kroil was halfway down the barrel threads.

Agreed, I also put some between the barrel shoulder and receiver face. Amazing what that stuff will creep its way into over time.

-Stooxie

 

[Americancheese]

I have heard the T3X CTR factory rail is a real pain to get off, any pointers from those that have removed theirs?

Looking for a 50MOA rail but seems that is very uncommon

What chassis systems are direct drop in for the Tikka T3X Tac A1? I’m looking at swapping out to a fixed stock over the folding oem T3X.

 

[schmi015]

What chassis systems are direct drop in for the Tikka T3X Tac A1? I’m looking at swapping out to a fixed stock over the folding oem T3X.

Manners mini chassis, krg, grs, xlr, mpa. But you'd have to switch to an Ai mag.

 

[strike33]

Cadex, available with either AICS mags or CTR
KRG, AICS Mags

 

[Americancheese]

Manners mini chassis, krg, grs, xlr, mpa. But you'd have to switch to an Ai mag.

That’s not a problem, i can always sell my three tikka mags. What chassis do people recommend? Looks like the manners are always out of stock on EO.

 

[schmi015]

That’s not a problem, i can always sell my three tikka mags. What chassis do people recommend? Looks like the manners are always out of stock on EO.

KRG is well respected and you should just order direct from manners either online or give them a call. http://builder.mannersstocks.com

 

[Americancheese]

KRG is well respected and you should just order direct from manners either online or give them a call. http://builder.mannersstocks.com

EO has the MA competition/ bronze in stock for $850. I wonder what a T3X Tac chassis is worth on the used market?

 

[ArmchairOperator]

What chassis systems are direct drop in for the Tikka T3X Tac A1? I’m looking at swapping out to a fixed stock over the folding oem T3X.

You gonna sell the Tac A1 Chassis?

 

[Americancheese]

You gonna sell the Tac A1 Chassis?

Yes...and I have no idea what it’s worth. To confirm, it’s the T3X collapsible

 

[ArmchairOperator]

Yes...and I have no idea what it’s worth. To confirm, it’s the T3X collapsible

Well if you want to sell it let me know what you want for it and send me a picture

 

[Americancheese]

Well if you want to sell it let me know what you want for it and send me a picture

Sounds good. I’m a member over at AR15.com, with 60 transactions 100% feedback score. You can search my profile @Americancheese

 

[LeftyJason]

Sounds good. I’m a member over at AR15.com, with 60 transactions 100% feedback score. You can search my profile @Americancheese

Careful with talking about selling here. Its better to have your 100 posts (you are at 17) or pay so you can do things in the px. Armchair has paid (that is what the Hessian banner means. I understand you are doing this private but using the forum. Don't want to see you banned. If you have any questions pm mod. Tucker301 or low light.

 

[Americancheese]

Careful with talking about selling here. Its better to have your 100 posts (you are at 17) or pay so you can do things in the px. Armchair has paid (that is what the Hessian banner means. I understand you are doing this private but using the forum. Don't want to see you banned. If you have any questions pm mod. Tucker301 or low light.

Thank you for heads up...i will probably just pay for membership and support the site

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Scratched the itch with an MDT ESS Chassis.
Gotta say that they are really well-made chassis and the fit and finish is truly excellent.
I'll post up some photos when I get back home but found the whole experience of a new chassis fantastic.

I'll be selling off the chassis though as even with it being a target based rig, it was too big to carry around the farm even on short strolls with everything still on it.
Can see how amazing they would be for matches or dedicated gong bashing.

 

[Americancheese]

Scratched the itch with an MDT ESS Chassis.
Gotta say that they are really well-made chassis and the fit and finish is truly excellent.
I'll post up some photos when I get back home but found the whole experience of a new chassis fantastic.

I'll be selling off the chassis though as even with it being a target based rig, it was too big to carry around the farm even on short strolls with everything still on it.
Can see how amazing they would be for matches or dedicated gong bashing.

Nice, what Tikka chassis did you swap?

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Nice, what Tikka chassis did you swap?

It was a standard stock. Wanted an ESS for a long time then I had to work offshore for 10 months after it arrived so I only got to see pictures...that was a touch annoying!
ANyway, I have ordered a "Ken Henderson" or HiTec stock to replace the chassis made here in NZ.
They're carbon fibre and have an integral bedding block so I ordered flush cups on the left side so I can use my biathlon sling to carry it about the farm easier.

No pictures of that yet but when it's made I'll post up.

Here are some shots from the Gong session. We only made it out to 335 yds but most groups were tight with the Norma Match 130.

The Gongs were up in the rock formation you can see in the distance.

I've included a close up of the Sterk shroud from @cannoncrossfire in case you were thinking of ordering one. They are beautifully crafted and his service is fantastic.

 

[Americancheese]

It was a standard stock. Wanted an ESS for a long time then I had to work offshore for 10 months after it arrived so I only got to see pictures...that was a touch annoying!
ANyway, I have ordered a "Ken Henderson" or HiTec stock to replace the chassis made here in NZ.
They're carbon fibre and have an integral bedding block so I ordered flush cups on the left side so I can use my biathlon sling to carry it about the farm easier.

No pictures of that yet but when it's made I'll post up.

Here are some shots from the Gong session. We only made it out to 335 yds but most groups were tight with the Norma Match 130.

The Gongs were up in the rock formation you can see in the distance.

I've included a close up of the Sterk shroud from @cannoncrossfire in case you were thinking of ordering one. They are beautifully crafted and his service is fantastic.
View attachment 7060749
View attachment 7060750
View attachment 7060754

Looks incredible

 

[Americancheese]

Is anyone running the KRG xray chassis?

 

[Statie07]

Ill be taking possession of a TAC A1 in 6.5 soon and was wondering if anyone has chrono data on the Berger match grade ammo 130 and 140 grain hybrids?

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Slower than it says on the box in my 22 inch barrel. I was getting 2900 ish rather than 3000 for the `130

 

[caporegime]

Scratched the itch with an MDT ESS Chassis.
Gotta say that they are really well-made chassis and the fit and finish is truly excellent.
I'll post up some photos when I get back home but found the whole experience of a new chassis fantastic.

I'll be selling off the chassis though as even with it being a target based rig, it was too big to carry around the farm even on short strolls with everything still on it.
Can see how amazing they would be for matches or dedicated gong bashing.

I had the LSS initially, wish I'd done the ESS to begin with. I just like it better for some reason.

 

[SlimySquirrel]

It's a fantastic chassis but very heavy compared to the LSS and that is the 15" fore end

 

[caporegime]

It's a fantastic chassis but very heavy compared to the LSS and that is the 15" fore end

I could see that with the additional weight of the rail.

 

[Jayjay1]

It was a standard stock. Wanted an ESS for a long time then I had to work offshore for 10 months after it arrived so I only got to see pictures...that was a touch annoying!
ANyway, I have ordered a "Ken Henderson" or HiTec stock to replace the chassis made here in NZ.
They're carbon fibre and have an integral bedding block so I ordered flush cups on the left side so I can use my biathlon sling to carry it about the farm easier.

No pictures of that yet but when it's made I'll post up.

Here are some shots from the Gong session. We only made it out to 335 yds but most groups were tight with the Norma Match 130.

The Gongs were up in the rock formation you can see in the distance.

I've included a close up of the Sterk shroud from @cannoncrossfire in case you were thinking of ordering one. They are beautifully crafted and his service is fantastic.
View attachment 7060749
View attachment 7060750
View attachment 7060754

That looks slick as f...antastic, perfect.

Did I get you right?
You now do have two stocks, the ESS and a fibre composite stock, which you are changing regularly?

 

[SlimySquirrel]

Thanks boss.

Yeah, kinda.
I have ordered the Hi-Tec carbon stock so it will be a few weeks before it's laid up and on the way.

I'll sell off the ESS but it's so comfortable to shoot so I'll miss it but I will certainly not be in need of the recoil management aspect with a suppressed 6.5 Creedmoor!
It's the one in the middle of the photo with the vertical grip
I have a wee project underway as it will need some bottom metal inletting and a load developed so I'll be sending it away whilst I'm out of the country until the end of the year.
The suppressor is super quiet and I love the caliber.

 

[manki77]

Tikka experts - Any advice would be appreciated:

What height vortex PMR rings should I use with my Tikka CTR and Vortex razor gen 2 3-15x50. Im using the base stock that came with the gun

 

[Muttly1]

Tikka CTR with factory barrel cut to 16.5
Thunderbeast cb7
130 gr hornady ELDM, RL16 shooting 2616fps.
Took it out the 1000 and back and vx5 was great but not going to be serious dialing as this will be a suppressed hunting rifle but good to know it’s capable!

How do you like the Thunderbeast?
Been pondering a can for a while, be going on a 7 Mag, for hunting ..does it soften the report, or do you still get a pretty good crack when you fire it?

 

[awpk03s]

With a little free time tonight, I made a brief attempt to remove my factory T3 barrel. Used a Mechforce vise, and a Brownells universal action wrench. Had a 3 foot cheater section of steel galvanized pipe ready to help too.

I think the Brownells wrench engages the receiver flat nicely enough, it should definitely work. I have a PVA rear entry wrench as well, but I’m afraid that will get ruined removing a factory barrel?

Anyway, I got everything tightened down and ready to go and I can’t stop the barrel from slipping/spinning in the leather straps of the barrel vise. As I ran out of time I took it all apart and will try again another time.
What should I put on the barrel or leather straps to stop it spinning? I’ve read powdered sugar, sand, oil, rosin.

What do you all recommend?

Man, I’m still struggling with this. I let kroil soak in the threads. I am using rosin powder. I have tried using the leather straps, copy paper, and just bare vise. Tried just rosin powder, tried oil and rosin, tried rosin and a little spray adhesive. I heated the action joint too with heat gun.
No matter which of these combinations I tried, the damn barrel still spins in the vise. Shredded the leather straps, and the paper pieces too. I feel like I could break it loose with the cheater bar if it would just stop spinning.
Now I need to get a toothbrush and get all the gunk built up off of the barrel and the vise pieces.

Any other tips or ideas for getting the barrel to stay stuck in the vise and not spin?

 

[Americancheese]

Man, I’m still struggling with this. I let kroil soak in the threads. I am using rosin powder. I have tried using the leather straps, copy paper, and just bare vise. Tried just rosin powder, tried oil and rosin, tried rosin and a little spray adhesive. I heated the action joint too with heat gun.
No matter which of these combinations I tried, the damn barrel still spins in the vise. I feel like I could break it loose with the cheater bar if it would just stop spinning.
Now I need to get a toothbrush and get all the gunk built up off of the barrel and the vise pieces.

Any other tips or ideas for getting the barrel to stay stuck in the vise and not spin?

What are you doing? Barrel swap?

 

[awpk03s]

What are you doing? Barrel swap?

Yeah. Trying to remove factory barrel.

 

[Peter83]

Here is my 2 Tikkas. CTR and Tac A1. Both 308.

 

[awpk03s]

With everything tightened down, I’m trying to turn the wrench by hand, with the cheater bar, and the barrel spins. Should I be whacking the wrench handle with a hammer instead of just pushing? Sorry for the dumb questions, just getting a little stumped.

 

[jwhjwh54]

How do you like the Thunderbeast?
Been pondering a can for a while, be going on a 7 Mag, for hunting ..does it soften the report, or do you still get a pretty good crack when you fire it?

I like it and as soon as I can find a ultra 7 direct thread I’m gonna order one.

My 11.5” 6.8 SBR it still has a crack but I’ll shoot the 6.5 on Friday and video tape. I’ve never shot the 6.5 without hearing protection but when I have shot my other bolt guns suppressed it’s significantly quieter. I’m probably going to hunt exclusively with a suppressor and ear pro from now on that I’ve got tinnitus. I have noticed animals don’t scatter as far when I hunt suppressed

 

[bna5017]

With everything tightened down, I’m trying to turn the wrench by hand, with the cheater bar, and the barrel spins. Should I be whacking the wrench handle with a hammer instead of just pushing? Sorry for the dumb questions, just getting a little stumped.

I gave up trying to retain the factory finish on mine. I clamped my aluminum vise Jaws together and drilled them on the split line with a 3/4" drill bit. It fit the barrel snug and it came off pretty easily. There are 2 marks on the barrel from the Jaws, but I figure if I ever decide to use it or sell it it's just gonna have to be cerakoted or reblued.

 

[Americancheese]

I gave up trying to retain the factory finish on mine. I clamped my aluminum vise Jaws together and drilled them on the split line with a 3/4" drill bit. It fit the barrel snug and it came off pretty easily. There are 2 marks on the barrel from the Jaws, but I figure if I ever decide to use it or sell it it's just gonna have to be cerakoted or reblued.

Can’t you just send in your action to Tikka and have them do the swap for you?