Tikka T3 Thread

[DangerRanger]

How long have you let it soak with Kroil / PBlaster, etc. ?
Heat Cycles ?

Heat the receiver right at the threads, preload the cheater pipe on the action wrench and bump the end of the wrench with a heavy hammer.
That's how the last on came off.

I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel

 

[CaptNemo]

I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel

I have that same barrel vise and I'm thinking a cutting up a couple of strips of old belt leather or a couple of layers of shoe box type card board with brown sugar or rosin would do the trick - I've scarred up the bluing on every barrel I have removed so far, so I'm still looking for a perfect solution.

 

[JGR1953]

I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel

Try loosening your action wrench bolts.
If you have too much pressure on them all you are doing is locking the threads into each other.
Add just enough pressure to keep the action from moving between the jaws to prevent marring.

 

[DangerRanger]

Try loosening your action wrench bolts.
If you have too much pressure on them all you are doing is locking the threads into each other.
Add just enough pressure to keep the action from moving between the jaws to prevent marring.

Yep been trying to do that, enough it was twisting a little on action at first when I hit it

 

[CaptNemo]

Yep been trying to do that, enough it was twisting a little at first when I hit it

What barrel are you taking off ?

 

[DangerRanger]

What barrel are you taking off ?

Lite

 

[Baron85]

How light can these tikkas be made. Wanting to do a light weight hunter with a 18-22” barrel in a Xlr magnesium element

 

[srt-4_uk]

Action and trigger are 30oz which is about average as far as standard actions go.

 

[jLorenzo]

Breaking in the 223 today with a random load of 8208 and 77 SMKs. First 10 rounds through it before I even zeroed. That’ll do!

View attachment 8075608
View attachment 8075609

Which barrel profile and length is that? Whats your 8208/77 load, COAL?

 

[jLorenzo]

There is QD cup all ready on the rear stock.

Which barrel profile/length is that? Looking at doing a tikka/whiskey 3 buikd.

 

[just browsing]

Which barrel profile and length is that? Whats your 8208/77 load, COAL?

26” Rem Varmint profile

Load that I used for break-in was 23.4gr 8208 with a 77 seated to ~2.360” OAL.

 

[jLorenzo]

26” Rem Varmint profile

Load that I used for break-in was 23.4gr 8208 with a 77 seated to ~2.360” OAL.

8208 definitely seems to be in a sweet spot with 75/77s and a longer barrel. I have a 26", I have gone as high as 24.5gr of 8208 with 75gr ELDs, 1.9520 CBTO. 75s seems to build pressure a little slower than the 77s, 77s shoot a little better IMO.

 

[just browsing]

8208 definitely seems to be in a sweet spot with 75/77s and a longer barrel. I have a 26", I have gone as high as 24.5gr of 8208 with 75gr ELDs, 1.9520 CBTO. 75s seems to build pressure a little slower than the 77s, 77s shoot a little better IMO.

Yeah it’s a good combination for sure.

My barrel has a super long freebore so I just broke it in with that load… going to experiment with Varget and the heavier stuff going forward since I can seat so long.

This is a 90SMK and a 75ELD seated to touching the lands, and then a factory 77gr IMI round for reference.

 

[jLorenzo]

Yeah it’s a good combination for sure.

My barrel has a super long freebore so I just broke it in with that load… going to experiment with Varget and the heavier stuff going forward since I can seat so long.

This is a 90SMK and a 75ELD seated to touching the lands, and then a factory 77gr IMI round for reference.

View attachment 8081410

Do you know which reamer it is or what the freebore is? I bought mine used but I think it is .169 freebore but not sure. Might be a little shorter than yours. I have shot 88s but no 90s. Looking at the Berger 85.5s. The 88s are crazy long. I mostly shoot 75/77s but also have been trying some 80s.

 

[DangerRanger]

Tikka still undefeated, Amazon action wrench has fallen

 

[CaptNemo]

Tikka still undefeated, Amazon action wrench has fallen View attachment 8081931View attachment 8081932

Ouch...
Time for the propane torch and some judicious heat.

 

[just browsing]

Do you know which reamer it is or what the freebore is? I bought mine used but I think it is .169 freebore but not sure. Might be a little shorter than yours. I have shot 88s but no 90s. Looking at the Berger 85.5s. The 88s are crazy long. I mostly shoot 75/77s but also have been trying some 80s.

.169 is super long. Probably almost too long to load to modified Accurate-mag length and still be in the lands.

Mine is a .155 which puts me just short of modified mag length (with reliable feeding) and just into the lands.

Tikka still undefeated, Amazon action wrench has fallen View attachment 8081931View attachment 8081932

Try the rear entry wrench from PVA. The external ones are goofy anyway.

 

[DangerRanger]

.169 is super long. Probably almost too long to load to modified Accurate-mag length and still be in the lands.

Mine is a .155 which puts me just short of modified mag length (with reliable feeding) and just into the lands.


Try the rear entry wrench from PVA. The external ones are goofy anyway.

Weird, I’ve always heard to never use a rear entry to remove a tikka barrel


Rolled the edge over on the action dovetail. Think I’m gone gonna send it to my smith

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Weird, I’ve always heard to never use a rear entry to remove a tikka barrel


Rolled the edge over on the action dovetail. Think I’m gone gonna send it to my smith
View attachment 8081989

The rear entry wrench as mentioned is the way to go. I used the PVA on multiple Tikkas. They are tight as fuck, I still had to heat them up too.

Those external wrenches are putting pressure on the threads that you’re trying to loosen when you crank them down.

 

[DangerRanger]

Yeah I’ll just buy bare action next time instead of trying to save money. I’m done fucking with it. I will say the brown sugar in the vise worked really well. Zero spin after that.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Yeah I’ll just buy bare action next time instead of trying to save money. I’m done fucking with it. I will say the brown sugar in the vise worked really well. Zero spin after that.

Next time buy a bare Origin action for a few hundred more.

 

[davsco]

supposedly, cutting relief cuts in the barrel really helps. mine came off after some serious whacks using a setup like yours (exterior action wrench). i had soaked it overnite in kroil. so i didn't get to the relief cut part, and i never got clear where/what direction the relief cuts were to be. and i will say that just buying the action makes it WAYYYY easier, and cheaper also if you're just buying a complete rifle as a host.

 

[DangerRanger]

Next time buy a bare Origin action for a few hundred more.

Pass my tl3 was the least impressive action I’ve owned

 

[davsco]

I’m done fucking with it.

oh c'mon man, be like peter gabriel and don't give up!

 

[DangerRanger]

oh c'mon man, be like peter gabriel and don't give up!

nah not worth the stress. Pop it in the mail and let someone else curse at it

 

[jLorenzo]

Pass my tl3 was the least impressive action I’ve owned

Why do you say that? Been trying to decide between a Tikka donor rilfe or a Origin.

 

[DangerRanger]

Why do you say that? Been trying to decide between a Tikka donor rilfe or an Origin.

It wanted to bind when run imperfectly, wasn’t terribly smooth and bolt close felt like crap to me.
I’ve never tried an origin, I just have no interest. Don’t think bighorns suit me. Maybe the origin is wildly better.

I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.

Lots of people love them, different strokes and that’s why we have options.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.

That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.

 

[DangerRanger]

That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.

OK

I wouldn’t, and won’t

 

[just browsing]

Yeah… hard pass on Origin/TL3 for me.

 

[viking78]

Tikka still undefeated, Amazon action wrench has fallen View attachment 8081931View attachment 8081932

Is that viper barrel vice any good, just bought one, but have not tested it yet.

 

[Haney]

That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.

Damn, you have all the answers .

 

[DangerRanger]

Is that viper barrel vice any good, just bought one, but have not tested it yet.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ seems good. I couldn’t get the barrel tight enough at first but I was trying to protect it with garden hose wrapped around. That didn’t work.

I switched to using brown sugar around the barrel to act like rosin and then torqued the nuts to 65 ft lbs and the barrel didn’t even try to budge… and I put enough torque to bend that wrench flat and bend the wrench bolts. So I guess?

My biggest gripe is by design it’s wider than the stainless shank on a proof carbon so I’ll have to be careful not to clamp any carbon.

 

[just browsing]

Love my Viper vice. One of the original tools I bought back when I first got into all this and one of the few that hasn’t been replaced with something “better.”

Small strips of leather work really well around the barrel by the way.

 

[JGR1953]

My biggest gripe is by design it’s wider than the stainless shank on a proof carbon so I’ll have to be careful not to clamp any carbon.

I stacked 2 layers of leather strap top and bottom and only use the front bolts to clamp on the shank.
The leather is thick enough to keep the clamp off the carbon and 2 bolts was more than enough to reach my torque setting installing my C6 barrel.

This is just my wrench handle to show an example of how I clamp it. (Too lazy to remove and show the real thing)

 

[just browsing]

Exactly what I do as well. Works perfect.

 

[DangerRanger]

“Max torque should be 50 ft/lbs.”

Viper wasn’t lying. I bent the top clamp of my vise with 65. Oops.

 

[Bbracken667]

I stacked 2 layers of leather strap top and bottom and only use the front bolts to clamp on the shank.
The leather is thick enough to keep the clamp off the carbon and 2 bolts was more than enough to reach my torque setting installing my C6 barrel.

View attachment 8082514

View attachment 8082516

This is just my wrench handle to show an example of how I clamp it. (Too lazy to remove and show the real thing)
View attachment 8082527

Very nicely done

 

[Bbracken667]

I stacked 2 layers of leather strap top and bottom and only use the front bolts to clamp on the shank.
The leather is thick enough to keep the clamp off the carbon and 2 bolts was more than enough to reach my torque setting installing my C6 barrel.

View attachment 8082514

View attachment 8082516

This is just my wrench handle to show an example of how I clamp it. (Too lazy to remove and show the real thing)
View attachment 8082527

Very nicely done

 

[NewsShooter]

The rear entry wrench as mentioned is the way to go. I used the PVA on multiple Tikkas. They are tight as fuck, I still had to heat them up too.

Those external wrenches are putting pressure on the threads that you’re trying to loosen when you crank them down.

Don't use a rear entry to remove a factory tikka barrel. The external wrenches have more surface area since you're using the flat sides of the action. I've only taken off a few, a buddy of mine a few more. We've never had an issue.

 

[NewsShooter]

It wanted to bind when run imperfectly, wasn’t terribly smooth and bolt close felt like crap to me.
I’ve never tried an origin, I just have no interest. Don’t think bighorns suit me. Maybe the origin is wildly better.

I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.

Lots of people love them, different strokes and that’s why we have options.

Never had that issue with any of my Tikka's, though I only have three of them. They're smoother than my stiller action by far....

 

[DangerRanger]

Never had that issue with any of my Tikka's, though I only have three of them. They're smoother than my stiller action by far....

I don’t have any issues with my tikkas?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Don't use a rear entry to remove a factory tikka barrel. The external wrenches have more surface area since you're using the flat sides of the action. I've only taken off a few, a buddy of mine a few more. We've never had an issue.

I removed at least a half dozen factory barrels with the PVA wrench. Heat, insert wrench, comes right off. Those external wrenches blow.

 

[aprocast]

Best way to remove tough ones

 

[JNKKO]

The camo works..

 

[JNKKO]

 

[DangerRanger]

I dig the solid green, I wouldn’t change it

 

[perttime]

The solid green isn't bad - unless you want to add some "tiger stripes" in black or brown to break up the shape, or just for coolness.

 

[Bbracken667]

View attachment 8083320

I would add a touch of the digital camo to it. That would rock and it would be a simple thing to do.

 

[viking78]

I like the Viper vice, simple to use and it is working like it is planned.