On another front I'm looking into a good beginner competition rifle for a strongly left-eye dominant buddy, and see that the TIkka site shows the CTR as available in left hand, but can't find any for sale anywhere. Any tips there?
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Not really. Tikka's only come in one action length, which is a long action, but as such it is a little shorter than standard Remington 700 long action. For the 6.5 Creedmoor the Tikka uses a long bolt stop making the throw similar to a Rem 700 short action.
I dont know how come some guys change they Tikka barrels straight away from the new guns.
My CTR 260rem shoot Lapua Scenar 123g bullet 5-shot group´s 7mm hole.
https://i.imgur.com/Rw9KuR9.jpg
My CTR 260rem shoot Lapua Scenar 123g bullet 5-shot group´s 7mm hole.
https://i.imgur.com/Rw9KuR9.jpg
Viking 78 I've noticed a lot of the tikkas are a little slow on the twist rate. If you want to shoot the heavier bullets it won't stabilize them.
I'm looking at getting a 300 win mag. It only comes in a 1:11 twist. The heaviest bullet it will stabilize is the 185-190gr. That means no go on the heavier bullets. Go here and play around with the numbers and you'll see why people want to change.
http://www.bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/
Note you also bought a ctr. Ctr's also have a heavier barrel. What I really want isn't imported into the us so I have to go with the t3x lite.
Summary. Some tikkas have lighter profile barrels. Most tikkas have slower twists limiting bullet selection. People change barrels generally because of these (I think).
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I'm looking at getting a 300 win mag. It only comes in a 1:11 twist. The heaviest bullet it will stabilize is the 185-190gr. That means no go on the heavier bullets. Go here and play around with the numbers and you'll see why people want to change.
http://www.bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/
Note you also bought a ctr. Ctr's also have a heavier barrel. What I really want isn't imported into the us so I have to go with the t3x lite.
Summary. Some tikkas have lighter profile barrels. Most tikkas have slower twists limiting bullet selection. People change barrels generally because of these (I think).
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That's not quite true about a 300 Win mag Tikka and it's 1=11 twist. A Berger .30 cal 210 gr VLD is stable at 2850 FPS, 59 degree temp at sea level. It will also stabilze a 220 gr SMK @ 2800 FPS. But it won't stabilize Bergers heavier and longer 215 gr and 230 gr Hybrid offerings. What's listed on Berger's website is Optimal Twist Rate for a particular bullet. That does not mean other twist won't work. Using Bergers own Bullet stability calculator will illustrate my point. I also us this one....
http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi
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I have had no issues hitting 820 yards (as far as I have taken it) with the 140's in a 20" barrel going 2600 fps
Different question. I recentley handled a T3a1 at a local Field & Stream. Rifle felt really nice besides the stupid trigger lock.
But for those who may have both, how does the Tikka a1 chassis compare and feel to an XLR or other similar chassis?
But for those who may have both, how does the Tikka a1 chassis compare and feel to an XLR or other similar chassis?
Yes, yesterday I was able to handle both. My CTR in the McRees G10 which is light and the Tac A1. The TIKKA chassis is great but heavy in comparison. the guy to the right in the shorts had it and we were both shooting out to 800. My brother was on my rifle in the jeans. The big difference just depends on if you mind a little extra weight, if we are just talking chassis.
An 8 twist is plenty in a .260. Not too long ago, standard seemed to 8.5 twist for 6.5 calibers. That included for the 142s, which also were the standard for a while.
1000 yards today with my Tikka T3 TSR-1.
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That's awesome! I'm really liking the G10 chassis also
1000 yards today with my Tikka T3 TSR-1.
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Nice shooting HoustonB77
First Tikka just came in. Steals can be found on these right now. Scope and rings are being changed out shortly. Not sure on rings height, it will have a Bushnell DMR.
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Today I was doing some dry fire practice and I pulled the trigger and the bolt was barely engaged. The handle was almost straight and when I pulled the trigger the handle went down and cocking piece acted like it does when it's fired. Is this common? I just never thought they should or would go off unless bolt was all the way closed.
Yeah, they will do that. Not sure it would set off a primer but dropping the firing pin releases the spring tension holding the cocking piece back. Naturally its going to fall on the surface that cocks the bolt so it will close the handle.
I believe you will still require a smith to get that puppy off, unlike the Ruger Precision
1000 yards today with my Tikka T3 TSR-1.
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I just picked one of these up. What ammo are you shooting? I have yet to buy brass, bullets, and dies.
I have a Tikka CTR in 6.5 creedmore and just put it in a MDT HS3 chassis.It came with a mdt 5 rnd plastic mag that does not allow me to load long enough length to get back to my sweet spot.What other mag choices do I have or what specific brand mag will fit in my chassis allowing longer bullet length.
according to the mdt website
The HS3 chassis uses AICS style magazine in .223 and .308 caliber for short action systems, and 300WM, 30.06 or .338LM for long action systems. Note that the magazine well for Long Action has the 3.715 lengths, and therefore you need AICS magazine in 3.715.
AICS, Alpha 2, and ARC should work, both the alpha 2 and ARC mags have longer internal dimensions
The HS3 chassis uses AICS style magazine in .223 and .308 caliber for short action systems, and 300WM, 30.06 or .338LM for long action systems. Note that the magazine well for Long Action has the 3.715 lengths, and therefore you need AICS magazine in 3.715.
AICS, Alpha 2, and ARC should work, both the alpha 2 and ARC mags have longer internal dimensions
You need to read a little further in long actions:
Our chassis use 3.715 magazines for all models, except Tikka T3 which uses the 3.560 magazines.
Okay, so 3.560" then. Since the poster in question wants longer length for his 6.5 creed, I suspect that even 3.000" would be plenty. Or did I miss something?
Lash,
You did not miss a thing. I only wanted to point out since this is an exclusive T3 thread, that long action T3's in MDT chassis only use MDT special proprietary 3.560" LA mags and not AICS LA Mags 3.715". And yes, the OP is looking for longer mags for a SA T3, which Alpha Mags, ARC and Accurate Mags make.
Top to bottom .243, .223, and two .308's[/QUOTE]
What's the barrel length on the shorty 308 and what scope is that?
What's the barrel length on the shorty 308 and what scope is that?
bentbolt308,
if you looking for a Tikka T3 straight bolt here's one: https://www.atlasworxs.com/collections/tactical-components/products/atlasworxs-knob-bolt-tikka-t3
You can screw on whatever knob you want end. I put an APA knob on mine....https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/products-page/knobs/apa-bolt-knob/.
if you looking for a Tikka T3 straight bolt here's one: https://www.atlasworxs.com/collections/tactical-components/products/atlasworxs-knob-bolt-tikka-t3
You can screw on whatever knob you want end. I put an APA knob on mine....https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/products-page/knobs/apa-bolt-knob/.
I don't actually make the entire knob I modify and thread the factory knob. Mine are actually threaded and capped with 416SS ends and then machined to final finish. Makes for a sleeker, cleaner looking knob I think. I got tired of all the big gawky gear shifter knob that everybody is selling. I mean, come on, we're cycle a silky smooth Tikka bolt; not shifting a truck transmission. Just my two cents and personal taste. I only make mine out of the factory bent knobs. 
I find the factory Tikka handles to have a bit too much 'slop' for my liking though in regards to fitment. Hence why I CNC my own styles from scratch. Cerakote can 'gap fill' to an extent. Im talking small gaps..
Nice work though, and nice rig. Burris scope good?
Nice work though, and nice rig. Burris scope good?
What's the barrel length on the shorty 308 and what scope is that?[/QUOTE]
Trijicon Accupoint 1-4
Hand loads. Lapua virgin brass, 140 Berger Hybrids, CCI BR primers, and 43.6 grains of H4350. This load averages 2683 in my rifle and is a hammer. Its strange but the load only shoots .6 or so at 100 but will shoot 1 inch at 300.
Well that is good news. I'll pick up Atlasworxs knob bolt and a Hawk Hill bolt knob and it'll be cheaper than having the factory bolt knob threaded.
Is anyone else enjoying their CTR as purchased, without modifications? My only nit-picking-point may be having a vertical grip closer that allows better prone shooting, but this angle may be a better option for using "obstacles". I don't think I'll be doing any modifications or stock/part swapping for a long time, it seems to be pretty much setup in a great way for me.
I kept mine stock for 2 years and then I decided I really wanted the McRees G10. I think it was a great upgrade that made the rifle a little more consistent in accuracy, not that it was ever bad. I just wanted something more solid and ergonomic in the prone position.
