just a heads up talked to my smith today and he said shouldnt take more then an hour so roughly $75 for the work and $60 for the TRG latch. i am going to have the work done on it when he is slow as i would rather shoot then be without my rifle for another month and a half. so i may have it done mid summer but ill keep this thread updated.
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just a heads up talked to my smith today and he said shouldnt take more then an hour so roughly $75 for the work and $60 for the TRG latch. i am going to have the work done on it when he is slow as i would rather shoot then be without my rifle for another month and a half. so i may have it done mid summer but ill keep this thread updated.
Factory mags seem like they are too short. I couldn't even fit Hornady 68g BTHP bullets in there, and I was planning to shoot 73g or 75g Hornady ELDs, which are even longer.
I see. I already run low rings, I cannot go any lower. The adjustable cheek piece was one of the things that made the Bravo quite attractive at that price range. If I cannot use it, I might have to reconsider buying the chassis. Anyway, pics would be appreciated, thank you.
I am doing exactly the same thing only my T3 Varmint is a .308. I am still waiting for mine to ship but I think, at least with the short action and its bolt stop that has the stop ledge farther forward, it will not be an issue. It is not something I was concerned about when ordering.
I would like to see more Tikka/Bravo pics too though.
I also think the overmolded cheekpiece and adjustable cheekpiece mount work on the Bravo so those may help as well
Hand loads? Just checked mine to make sure I wasn't remembering incorrectly, since I don't usually shoot heavier bullets in that rifle. Hornady 75gr BTHP factory rounds load and cycle perfectly in both 5-round and 10-round Tikka mags.
for a few of the questions i got about the bolt hitting cheek rest:
this photo shows the highest i could set the cheek rest without the bolt hitting
This shows the cheek piece moved up a bit more and the bolt hitting it now
my solution, i could probably run even lower rings but i am going to get a weibad cheekpad to raise the comb without moving the cheek piece up. note this is a .308 sa
this photo shows the highest i could set the cheek rest without the bolt hitting
This shows the cheek piece moved up a bit more and the bolt hitting it now
my solution, i could probably run even lower rings but i am going to get a weibad cheekpad to raise the comb without moving the cheek piece up. note this is a .308 sa
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and here is another post to finally put my rifle in this thread.
specs are:
.308 T3x CTR
KRG Bravo sako green
Leupold Mark 6 3-18 h59
20 moa mountain tactical scope base
seekin precision rings
AAC 762 SD, will some day be an AE30
weight: 12.5lbs with suppressor, ~ 11lbs w/o
specs are:
.308 T3x CTR
KRG Bravo sako green
Leupold Mark 6 3-18 h59
20 moa mountain tactical scope base
seekin precision rings
AAC 762 SD, will some day be an AE30
weight: 12.5lbs with suppressor, ~ 11lbs w/o
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I would call KRG and let them know what was going on if you have'nt already. If that doesn't work a dremmel tool willfor a few of the questions i got about the bolt hitting cheek rest:
this photo shows the highest i could set the cheek rest without the bolt hitting
This shows the cheek piece moved up a bit more and the bolt hitting it now
my solution, i could probably run even lower rings but i am going to get a weibad cheekpad to raise the comb without moving the cheek piece up. note this is a .308 sa
yea i posted it in the krg bravo thread, i may shoot them a message but there is not much they can do.
Bit of an update to my Tikka T3 .308 SS Varmint Left Hand. Now has a custom picatinny rail to suit the forend rail height/position, as well as a 'boxy' AI style bolt shroud (3d printed Prototype i'm working on).
Thanks for the pics! This is honestly a bizarre design oversight, I'll have to reconsider the Bravo.
My Tikka CTR does the same thing in a Manners T4A luckily for me it works out when I have the cheek riser just below where the bolt would hit it, but it is close.
I imagine most traditional style stocks with adjustable Combs do this. No way really around it
people don't really think anymore before bashing a product. I dont know of any stock on the market with an adjustable cheek that doesn't have the same issue with long actions or tikkas.
I would be pissed if it was $1500 manners, but this is a $400 chassis from krg not their hubu or W3, it gonna go backpacking with me and shoot some competitions and in general get beat up. There are plenty of ways to solve the comb height that are cheap and quick so no big deal, just means I don't have to use as much material cause it's adjusted somewhat!
Doesn't hit on my KMW, Manners T5a or HS precision with a cheekpiece added by stockdoc
Curious if that's with a Tikka, because I wasn't aware hs precision or kmw made stocks for them.
My bolt doesn't hit the cheekpiece on my GGS Predator, but I have to lower it to remove the bolt.
correct me if im wrong but at this moment most of the traditional stocks we are putting a Tikka in are designed for r700s then retrofitted to fit the Tikka action, which may be the issue.
My Manners T4A was designed specifically as Tikka CTR drop in I believe. I’m not sure why they just didn’t trim the cheek riser 1/2”-1” to where it wouldn’t hit the bolt When I get down behind the rifle I don’t think any part of my cheek is really touching that part anyway.
I'll see how mine ends up adjusted for fit with everything installed, but I think if that happens I'll just dremel out the groove all the way from top to bottom so the part your cocking indicator is hitting isn't there.
In your opinion is the grip in need of stippling or do you like it as is?
i like it as-is right now but it my get a little slick if wet. I think stippling would only make it better, a super fine stipple would be about perfect!
post up pictures if you dremel it out.
One unseen positive to this is that you can dremel out the cheek riser to provide the exact amount of clearance required specific to your bolt stop spec. Possibly the only negative regarding T3 actions is a non bullet proof bolt stop. I've never had this issue with hard use and I put that down to my bolt just kissing my cheek riser on an AI style Wombat Ordnance chassis. I'm actually happy to hear about this. I have a Bravo on order in Australia and I'm looking forward to trying it out.
Possibly in a few cases but not all. We design and manufacture carbon fibre stocks. Tikka t3 is at the moment way more interesting for us (in Europe) than say Remington. We supply stocks to Schulz & Larsen and some stock features have been adapted to their bolt design. Now being a standard stock for us which has been shaped by T3 and S&L also covers Rem long action easily.
Some design features of our E-Tac4 range has been transferred into our new lightweight hunting sporter type stock E-Lite.
and the stock from which the cheek raiser/back top section was stolen from. T3/S&L Tactical E-Tac4 design
btw. we'll fly with this rifle and a Rem based rifle in the same stock design to the states tomorrow.
edi
I apologize if this is a stupid question, but looking at my CTR, there appears to be 6 screws mounting the rail to the action. Most people talk about the four that are removed to mount a 20 MOA rail, and I know looking at the Mountain Tactical Rail, they show 4 holes and 4 screws. What are the other two screws for in the factory rail?
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The t3x CTR has three screws in the back.
The middle screw is left out when using aftermarket rails cause none of them are drilled for the middle screw that I have seen and are not really needed.
The front screw is for a mirage band and does not thread into the receiver.
The middle screw is left out when using aftermarket rails cause none of them are drilled for the middle screw that I have seen and are not really needed.
The front screw is for a mirage band and does not thread into the receiver.
I believe Tikka added additional screws with the updates made to turn the T3 into the T3x. Since the spacing of the original 4 screws is the same on both models, scope base manufacturers only use those 4, so that one base can fit either model.
As others have said, the front screw is for a mirage band, and is supposed to protrude from the top of the rail. If you try to tighten it, you risk damage (bending) to the factory 0 MOA rail. Though, if you’re planning to swap to a different base (e.g. 20 MOA), then that doesn’t really matter.
When I took the factory rail off my CTR, I removed the other screws first, then actually tightened the mirage screw VERY slightly. This provided some leverage to pry the factory base from the action, since they’re glued on. I didn’t care about damage to the factory rail, so use this at your own risk.
As others have said, the front screw is for a mirage band, and is supposed to protrude from the top of the rail. If you try to tighten it, you risk damage (bending) to the factory 0 MOA rail. Though, if you’re planning to swap to a different base (e.g. 20 MOA), then that doesn’t really matter.
When I took the factory rail off my CTR, I removed the other screws first, then actually tightened the mirage screw VERY slightly. This provided some leverage to pry the factory base from the action, since they’re glued on. I didn’t care about damage to the factory rail, so use this at your own risk.
Just got my Area 419 Arca rail installed and had a range day with it. Overall I'm really pleased with it, and the MPA RAT pic rail makes swapping bipods a breeze. I highly recommend it.
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I hope this is the right place to ask this question but can the CTR be moved to an aftermarket stock and still shoot production in PRS?
how about the Tac A1, can that shoot in production class as is?..
how about the Tac A1, can that shoot in production class as is?..
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Tevan I really like that combo.
The MPA sight shows that RAT clamp as weighing 1LB is that correct ?
It is a hefty clamp, I will try to weight it when I get home but I'm fairly certain it is very close to 1LB.
Anyone with a XLR Carbon have a recommendation on what mount they use for their scope? I'd like a one piece mount, with 20moa of can't built in. Thinking it needs to be 1.25" or so... Anyone have experience?
NF ATACR 5-25 F1 MIL-C with the SP-4601 I like it I honestly don’t think they make a better mount I move it to other rifles sometimes and I am always within a tenth of a mil at 100yds. Don’t think about the cost of it and just do it......lol
Thank You. Now I have to figure out whether to go with the tikka direct mount or buy a rail and go 1913 mount. I know the rail mount one would be more versatile. I think the tikka direct mount would be pretty nice too though.
I am a little concerned that the direct mount might limit eye relief adjustment some due to the lug and top screws being stationary. So to adjust you have to move the scope in the mount itself. Does anyone have the measurement between the rings on the tikka direct mount(ST-4701)?
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I don't have one, but the Spuhr mount doesn't look to have a lot of room between the rigns to faclilitate eye relief adjustment without moving the whole mount. I know its more pieces-so potentially more points of failure, but I'd go with a rail-plus it gives you more options for using the mount on other rifles, or mounting accessories on the rail under the scope. Also, how many times have you heard of a rail breaking off a receiver?
I can attest to breaking a rail off a Tikka receiver. Not even from abuse... replaced the Factory rail with a 20moa version, and after about 3 years of range trips and hunting (carried on a sling), I pulled it out of the case early one morning before heading to the stand, and the scope didn't follow. Thought the mount just came free, but turned out all 4 of the screws had fatigued and broken off... I don't recall who made that mount, but it wasn't anything cheap. All the screws were torqued and loc-tited as well. I had to drill all 4 of the screws out, and chase the threads with a tap (had to buy that, as it's a non-standard thread).
I replaced it with another rail from Mountain Tactical, which has an integral recoil lug machined right into it (one piece, not a dowel pin). This with 4 screws, and bedding the base to the receiver with JP Weld should solve this problem, but trust me, I was tempted to go with the Spuhr for the factory Tikka rail. Eye relief was my main concern as well, which is why I stuck with a 1913 rail.
Just saying, it happens... and I'll bed every base I install from here on out.
I replaced it with another rail from Mountain Tactical, which has an integral recoil lug machined right into it (one piece, not a dowel pin). This with 4 screws, and bedding the base to the receiver with JP Weld should solve this problem, but trust me, I was tempted to go with the Spuhr for the factory Tikka rail. Eye relief was my main concern as well, which is why I stuck with a 1913 rail.
Just saying, it happens... and I'll bed every base I install from here on out.
The factory rails that come on the CTRs come with a built in lug and they are pretty low profile compared to any after market rails I have seen for Tikka rifles.
I bought a new T3x CTR and when I took the factory rail off to put on a 20moa rail there was no big lug installed just the two small pin lugs and the five receiver screws.
I just thought it might have got left out when they assembled it.
The new rail I bought had the big lug machined in so I didn't think anymore about it.....
Edit: Just answered my own question.
The new T3x CTR rails do not come with the large recoil lugs just took a look at the factory rail which still has all the factory goop on it and there is no recess on the bottom for the lug to seat into.
The top of the receivers are still recessed for a lug....
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No experience with Warne, but I'd highly recommend Murphy Precision: Murphy Precision Tikka Rails that's what I used on both my Tikkas
I’ll second the Murphy Precision bases. Bought one for my CTR. Seems very well made and includes a pin for the recoil lug.
Tried to use the search function and look back through the thread but couldn't find an answer. So please forgive me if this has already been asked.
I have a Tikka T3X TAC A1 and would like to swap out the Pic rail for a 20 moa version. Anyone have experience with this? I'm concerned since the rail on the top of the handguard butts right up against the scope mount on top of the receiver.
I would prefer a solution that doesn't require me to modify the new 20 moa rail, but if that's the only answer. Well...
Thanks in advance.
I have a Tikka T3X TAC A1 and would like to swap out the Pic rail for a 20 moa version. Anyone have experience with this? I'm concerned since the rail on the top of the handguard butts right up against the scope mount on top of the receiver.
I would prefer a solution that doesn't require me to modify the new 20 moa rail, but if that's the only answer. Well...
Thanks in advance.
EGW, Warne, Nightforce, and many others make 20 MOA rails for Tikkas; I think the EGW one hangs over the barrel a little but I don't think most others do. Another option would be to keep the stock rail and just mount the scope in a 20 MOA unimount.
