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Barrel length doesn't determine accuracy. As long as the crown is good, accuracy should remain the same. I'm sure @Lowlight has said something about this at some time or other.
Also check this out http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/20...rrel-length-muzzle-velocity-and-accuracy/amp/
Quote from the article
"Belief: a long barrel is required for accuracy when shooting at long distance.
Fact: In no part of our testing was barrel length a determining factor in accuracy. At a distance of 100-540 yards, there was no discernible difference in accuracy between various barrel lengths. This performance translated over to unknown distance shooting with all barrel lengths at ranges out to 900 yards. At no point in the testing was a short barrel a hindrance once marksmanship fundamentals were observed and proper flight data was applied."
Thanks @LeftyJason. Here comes the chop chop. I have the feeling once I start hunting short sticks, I'll likely not want to go back. Especially with a can on the end.
Here´s how i mod my cheek riser.
On the side it still look like original, but on the top, you see that there has been cut one tiny piece off the riser.
Bolt is now moving freely on the action.
On the side it still look like original, but on the top, you see that there has been cut one tiny piece off the riser.
Bolt is now moving freely on the action.
Is it just me, or do the TAC A1's seem to group better on average out of the box than regular CTRs? Or to put it another way, it kinda seems like in some cases the CTR stock is holding back potential accuracy, at least on average.
My Tikka T3X CTR 20” 308, MDT chassis, Insite Arms heathen muzzle brake with a Nightforce SHV 4-14x50 MilRad ffp scope and rings.
Maybe the stock helps, but I think it is the 2 stage trigger that helps more. But i could be wrong.
Is there any gap between forend and scope?
Looks quite tight, or is it just the angle of the picture.
Have any of you guys used titanium as action bolts?
Do they hold the action beating?
TI i may use is grade 5 titanium M6 bolts.
Do they hold the action beating?
TI i may use is grade 5 titanium M6 bolts.
Sterk bolt handles and shrouds are titanium and they are the best available...
I have Sterk bolt handle, swept model and that is SS.
TI can be good in those two place, but what i mean is using TI bolts in attaching the action to the chasiss.
There is a big deal, that can the TI action screws handle the recoil?
Normally action screws are 10,9 or 12,9 black steel screws, but TI is not as viscous as 10,9 or 12,9 is.
Titanium has the week point the sharp strikes, like they would get, and get it a lot in the rifle, if used as action screws.
TI can be good in those two place, but what i mean is using TI bolts in attaching the action to the chasiss.
There is a big deal, that can the TI action screws handle the recoil?
Normally action screws are 10,9 or 12,9 black steel screws, but TI is not as viscous as 10,9 or 12,9 is.
Titanium has the week point the sharp strikes, like they would get, and get it a lot in the rifle, if used as action screws.
but that's not an action screw. titanium has the reputation of being inelastic and relatively brittle. in applications with cyclic or non cyclic stresses or vibrations it has been known to fracture...
He said action bolts, it was a misunderstanding, I was thinking he meant bolt handle when he meant action screws.
These are the TI bolts, i say these a bolt, not a screw.
https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-socket-cap-tapered.html?thread_washer_dia=572
Titanium bolts are used in motorcycles too, when they fasten the brake disc to the wheel.
So they should hold the rifle action in stock too, but does some one have information about this?
https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-socket-cap-tapered.html?thread_washer_dia=572
Titanium bolts are used in motorcycles too, when they fasten the brake disc to the wheel.
So they should hold the rifle action in stock too, but does some one have information about this?
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What benefit are you trying to get using titanium as action screws?These are the TI bolts, i say these a bolt, not a screw.
https://www.pro-bolt.com/titanium/titanium-bolts-socket-cap-tapered.html?thread_washer_dia=572
Titanium bolts are used in motorcycles too, when they fasten the brake disc to the wheel.
So they should hold the rifle action in stock too, but does some one have information about this?
Weight savings? You won't get much benefit. They don't weigh much.
Rust prevention? Better to go with a stainless.
Looks with anodized titanium? Maybe but you could cerakote the heads and get the same effect.
Edit: corrected cerakote to create autocorrect
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Tikka CTR in XLR Carbon chassis. Shot that day to just over 700 yards in a DA of -6500'
Pro tip, don't run the mag ring on a DMR 2 at -50F.
Still tracked just fine though.
Pro tip, don't run the mag ring on a DMR 2 at -50F.
Still tracked just fine though.
I've never experienced temps like that, let alone shot in them. In fact , I've never even seen snow.Tikka CTR in XLR Carbon chassis. Shot that day to just over 700 yards in a DA of -6500'
Pro tip, don't run the mag ring on a DMR 2 at -50F.
Question about what Spuhr Mount. I had ordered a SP-4602 that arrived however I did not like how high it ended up being and also I could easily go with more cant than the 20 moa provided by the 4602 I was considering going with the SP-4901 to get the scope lower and to get 30 moa of cant. However I was wondering if it would be better to get the Spuhr Mount that is made for Sako/Tikka rifles. I am putting it on a CTR. I can remove the factory rail if needed. Just wondering what the thoughts are on the options? Anyone have experience with a CTR and Spuhr? As for the scope it is a Sig Tango 6 4-24x50.
Review of the new McMillan game hunter stock for Tikka
https://tacticalgunreview.com/mcmillan-game-hunter-stock-tikka-t3/
https://tacticalgunreview.com/mcmillan-game-hunter-stock-tikka-t3/
The factory picatinny rail is also 0 MOA. Let’s not forget that Tikka Performance Center makes a great 0 & 20 MOA aftermarket picatinny rail that utilizes the Tikka Optiloc hole in the receiver.
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, and I imagine this question has been asked before, but my search-fu didn't yield any concrete answers.
what mag will work with my new to me Tikka T3x in a KRG chassis (6.5 creed)?
the rifle came with an AI marked mag which appears to work fine, though it doesn't drop free all that easily.
I have some ARC mags and Magpul AI patterned mags, neither of which fit (I have a PVA JH on order and I'm hoping they work for that rifle)
my previous long range experience was primarily with desert tech, so that was a very straight forward equation.
will accurate mag branded mags work? how about ruger mags made for their gunsite rifle?
what mag will work with my new to me Tikka T3x in a KRG chassis (6.5 creed)?
the rifle came with an AI marked mag which appears to work fine, though it doesn't drop free all that easily.
I have some ARC mags and Magpul AI patterned mags, neither of which fit (I have a PVA JH on order and I'm hoping they work for that rifle)
my previous long range experience was primarily with desert tech, so that was a very straight forward equation.
will accurate mag branded mags work? how about ruger mags made for their gunsite rifle?
The price difference in Canada is CAD1000 between the special edition and the Tac A1.
I use 10 shot Accurate mags and they are a bit firm too, but the 5 shot ones are looser fit. I think they will all be much the same.
Didn’t realize that one could use a Tikka T3X Lite 6.5CM action as the action for a customized Tikka build. Is this a common practice? Thanks.
So how’s the barrel of a Lite different from a CTR? Is the Lite barrel as accurate as a CTR? Thanks.
The Lite barrel is... light. Like, can't even thread it 5/8. My .308 is OK, but I'm sure a heavier barrel will improve it a good bit.
I used a Lite for mine because a) a >20" CTR in .308 is really hard to find, b) I figured (correctly) I'd want a 20MOA rail, didn't want to be stuck needing a canted mount, and read several stories of stripping screws trying to remove the CTR rail, and c) I got it cheap enough to very nearly break after adding a prefit barrel (that's exactly what I want) vs. buying a CTR and settling for a shorter, lighter barrel.
The footprint of the tikkas whether CTR or the lites are the same. You get 12 options. Pick blued or stainless, left or right hand, and 223 bolt face, 308 face or magnum face. If say you want a left hand stainless 308 face (like I want) you have to start from a lite if you are in the us.
My lite 6.5 barrel was excellent, .4 MOA with a thrown together load last minute so I could shoot a match the following weekend.
However it’s light. As said you can only thread it for 9/16. I couldn’t find a CTR locally in time for the first match so I picked up the lite in stainless for $630. Shot two matches, got the bug bad and realized how handycapped I was without a break and only 3 round mags.
Decided to put a benchmark 5R barrel on that rifle and we're going to ream out the 6.5 CM barrel to a 6.5x55 wildcat and I'm going to screw it on a T3 action and use it for hunting.
One cool observation about the tikka was seeing how buttery smooth they feed just as fast as I can run the bolt and some of the custom rigs struggling to feed on every stage.
However it’s light. As said you can only thread it for 9/16. I couldn’t find a CTR locally in time for the first match so I picked up the lite in stainless for $630. Shot two matches, got the bug bad and realized how handycapped I was without a break and only 3 round mags.
Decided to put a benchmark 5R barrel on that rifle and we're going to ream out the 6.5 CM barrel to a 6.5x55 wildcat and I'm going to screw it on a T3 action and use it for hunting.
One cool observation about the tikka was seeing how buttery smooth they feed just as fast as I can run the bolt and some of the custom rigs struggling to feed on every stage.
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Big fan of the Tikka T3X CTR! Mine is an absolute hammer!
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCyPEnjRX7eYty1IwI6dzAs9WRf-IxfYQ
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCyPEnjRX7eYty1IwI6dzAs9WRf-IxfYQ
Does a CTR require an additional cheek piece to raise the comb height to properly align with a rifle scope? The stock comb height just appears low. I don’t have a CTR so I don’t know. Just wondering if everyone who buys a CTR has to do something to raise the height of the comb. Thanks.
@ViP I can comment on that for you:
Yes, own at CTR. 20" 6.5 Creed
Scope is an LRHS 3-12
Used the factory rail with TPS Super Low pic rings.
I needed a little more "up" to get my cheek right. As you know, everyone is a little different and I see a lot of guys using the CTR without any additional riser, but my experience warranted a little more comb height.
**disclaimer- I wouldn't have known any better until about a year ago I had someone with LR shooting experience evaluate my set-up, posture, etc. One of the first things was improving my cheek weld. Now that I know what a proper weld feels like, I'm not far from having a cheek piece on every rifle I own.
Yes, own at CTR. 20" 6.5 Creed
Scope is an LRHS 3-12
Used the factory rail with TPS Super Low pic rings.
I needed a little more "up" to get my cheek right. As you know, everyone is a little different and I see a lot of guys using the CTR without any additional riser, but my experience warranted a little more comb height.
**disclaimer- I wouldn't have known any better until about a year ago I had someone with LR shooting experience evaluate my set-up, posture, etc. One of the first things was improving my cheek weld. Now that I know what a proper weld feels like, I'm not far from having a cheek piece on every rifle I own.
So I could technically buy any used Tikka T3X in any caliber, remove the action (with the trigger), drop it into a Tikka T3 chassis, purchase a 6.5CM barrel, have a gun smith put it together and away I go?
Has anyone had anything to do with the Bell & Carlson target/competition stock?
http://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1129
What are the pros and cons? Is the cheek piece easily adjustable?
http://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1129
What are the pros and cons? Is the cheek piece easily adjustable?
I don't have my Tikka CTR in one(yet), but I do have my Remington 700 in one. I like the stock a lot.
Pros:
- It fit my Rem 700 SPS Tactical 308 perfectly. And it fit ME perfectly. Length of pull was dead nuts on for me. I'm 5'11 1/2".
- Full-length bedding block mated well with the Rem 700 action. Would a little skim-bedding make it better? Maybe. But I didn't feel the need to.
- Good weight, not too heavy like some fiberglass stocks.
- Forearm had a flat enough bottom that it worked well in bags/rests, but not too wide like some of the target stocks. Had a more rounded, contoured feel to it - not angular like a flat-bottom forearm. Felt really good in my hand.
- The cheek piece adjusts easily with the proper size Allen wrench. I replaced the Allen bolt on mine with a plastic knob that I bought from Grainger.
Cons:
- You have to remove the cheek piece in order to remove the bolt for cleaning.
- The only other con I can come up with, and this just has to do with my facial structure, is the cheek piece is a little wider than most factory stocks, and I would sometimes find myself having to tilt my head a bit uncomfortably far to the right to get centered in the scope. I had to ultimately compromise between cheekpiece height/cheek weld and neck comfort. Most people I know that have these B&C fiberglass stocks don't seem to have that issue, so I can only assume it's my particular bone structure.
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I bought a Bravo and didn't like it. The cheek piece issue is a big design flaw which I just couldn't live with and the whole thing seemed as if it is built for midgets. The length of pull is too short even with the 3 spacers provided and the pistol grip is too short, leaving one finger hanging free. I'm also 5'11&1/2".
Wow! Good to know. I probably wouldn't like the pistol grip then. I don't recall off-hand whether it's short on the B&C or not - I'm thinking I would've noticed that. I'll check when I get home from work this afternoon.
The cheek piece on the B&C allows for running the bolt just fine, but it does have to be removed in order to remove the bolt for cleaning/maintenance, etc. I think that's pretty common among adjustable cheek rests. I remember I cut a notch in my Karstens Adjustable Cheek Rest that I had on a previous stock so that I wouldn't have to take it off to remove the bolt. But it was a bit more of an ordeal to take it off and return it to position than with the B&C Adjustable. The B&C even comes with e-clips that fit in notches on the cheek piece posts. They hold the correct height when you remove the piece, enabling you to easily return to your chosen height when re-installing it. Another "Pro".
I cannot recall the page number or user but someone posted a pic of a ctr in the B&C and said he liked it. I think it was November ish? Im at work, but if I get a break ill try and find it
Edit: Scotts556
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