you will have plenty of room with that height rings. I used .885 30mm rings with a 50mm nightforce scope. The butler creek scope cap would fit but was in contact with the barrel. Anything in the low .90” would be perfect. The .885 rings are perfect with a 50mm if you would rather use a scope cover instead of caps.
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Requested to see more MDT ESS chassis's ... my Tikka T3X in 6.5 Creedmoor. Still thinking about changing the color to ODG. Sorry about the plain old gun at the range picture
Somebody just posted a Tikka T1X in the A1 chassis, in the rimfire section. Fit with an adjustment to the picatinny rail, I believe. There might be interest on that side?
Nice rifleRequested to see more MDT ESS chassis's ... my Tikka T3X in 6.5 Creedmoor. Still thinking about changing the color to ODG. Sorry about the plain old gun at the range picture
It is the season for white, wouldn't you say?Requested to see more MDT ESS chassis's ... my Tikka T3X in 6.5 Creedmoor. Still thinking about changing the color to ODG. Sorry about the plain old gun at the range picture
I really do need to go out and shoot my tikka more. Poor thing hasn't gotten out in over a month.....
December in Canada ... snow is part of life haha. The temperature has been great though lately ... 0 to -2 during the day so it has allowed for some extra shooting days until the -30 daytime temps arrive
There's a formula to figure clearance. The CTR rail is 0 moa from factory. The .97" should give plenty of clearance on a 50mm bell and 0 moa rail. There's a tacked thread here that explains how to measure for ring height
Saskatoon, SK - Paris of the Prairies. Born and raised, love it here
I'l put some observations of mine about a plain jane T3 Tactical, 300WM and 24 in barrel. Originally I wrote most of it as an answer to some private questions.
For background, I've done this for about 12 years, wearing the uniform as a volunteer and occasionally shooting distant things and annoying beings. With everything from 4,6 mm HK to fifty-cals (5,56 and 7,62 NATO, 300 WM and 338 LM as most common ones).
But the Tictac in 300 WM. I've had it for 7 years. For me it was boring to shoot it at distances of less than 500 meters. Usually it was 700 and more. Generally the shooting ranges were limited to a bit over 1000 meters, but the Tictac took the 1 klick distance easily. I shot it usually just below the 1 moa @900-1000, unless I really screwed the wind estimate. Well, the distances depend where the targets actually are, of course, but I mean during general practice.
One of my regular exercises was to put 1 round between the eyes at about 700-800 meters, walk to the target and back (to verify the hit), and repeat. I remember doing it up to 10 times in a row, before I was satisfied with the performance. I mean that I won't do it once, but can make it enough times in a row. Doing just one shot makes one concentrate on the important stuff, eventually putting all the rounds in 6-7 cm area. What I've done with it at close range (100 m or about) are the "know your limits" type of targets, or timed shots (for example loaded and safed rifle, standing behind it, drop down and put the hit on the paper in 5 seconds). I've shot it both prone and off-hand. I'd say it's 50% time with bipod, 50% everything else (bags, branches, window sills, offhand etc).
The setup - it has the original Tikka plastic stock, 3-12x56 on it with TMR-like reticle, Ase Utra SL7 for suppressor. The point is that it is very light, just slightly above 5 kg, loaded. 5 and half, if I recall. Well yes, it makes the recoil a little more interesting. But since I have to do the carry-everything-and-walk-everywhere stuff from time to time it is a bit important for me. Balance? Suppressor makes it a tad nose-heavy (and long). Strong arms do help. Otherwise I would prefer a more compact package for non-prone use. For example 20 in barrel with suppressor. Without the can the balance was quite fine for me (I shot it with plain barrel for about the quarter of time). And then you see how good a brake the can actually is. I don't fancy the brakes, though the 338 and 50 I used had these (shot these inside the vehicles, indoors etc, but it is another story altogether). Tictac with SL7.. it is quiet enough that I can shoot it easily without any ear protection.
Tikka Tactical has the same barrel as TRG. Whatever the Finnish smith has done with it, it is done well and these things are accurate. I don't recall any missed shot I've made that I could relate to the rifle and ammo. All have been me and called as such. Rushing the shot, crapping on wind calls. That kind of mental errors.
Oh, I've only used a really inefficient ammo for it. Sellier&Bellot 168 grain match (v0 about 920 m/s at 20 deg celcius, SMK bullet). Why? Because 300 WM is a non-standard calibre here and everyone using it either buys it or reloads. I don't reload, thus I buy. And it is sadly the only match ammo readily available here. I would prefer 190 or 208 grains for it. 168 is really light. Yes it reaches the 1000, even when it's -20 celsius outside, but wind carries it and makes correct calls more critical (also the transsonic performance sucks). It still had a lot of punch though. When shooting a target on the driver's seat through the windshield the bullet even broke the taillights.
I have thought about it, changing the stock that is, but never got to it. I have the original T3 Tactical, not the newer T3X one. What I did change was the plastic bolt cover. Got rid of it and put on the metal one (T3X one), it felt more solid. Why I didn't change the stock? When I was thinking about it I had few options. It is a long-action and 300 WM, around here no-one had anything for it, buying a stock from US brings the ITAR issue + extensive taxes. So basically I didn't find anything useful I could use and afford. And thus learned to live with the one I had.
What bothered me about it? I do like folding stocks, rifles that take less space in vehicles or when I have to put it in a backpack, or on it. On those occasions where I need both hands, like making my way through a river etc. I had no space on it to mount the NV device on, in front of the scope. And the stock is a little on the soft side. When shooting it prone&with bipod, when I lean more on it (with more force or weight) the forend will flex a little. Not that much that it would make a contact with the barrel, rather just about enough for you to know it's there. So what I prefer is a rigid chassis with a continuous rail on top of it and a folding stock. That is my preference, based on my experience and the work&shooting style I do.
What I like about the stock. It is light. Very light, helping to keep the weight of the whole system down. It is simple. I have little need for easy and fast adjustability on the field, I rather like having less knobs and wheels getting stuck on something or going loose. I have a bipod, sling loops on the side. A cheek rest. Basically I have most of the things I need (minus the thing I complained about). It is comfortable enough for me to live with it easily. Eventually I thought that a new stock or chassis doesn't give me enough boost in performance to justify the costs.
For background, I've done this for about 12 years, wearing the uniform as a volunteer and occasionally shooting distant things and annoying beings. With everything from 4,6 mm HK to fifty-cals (5,56 and 7,62 NATO, 300 WM and 338 LM as most common ones).
But the Tictac in 300 WM. I've had it for 7 years. For me it was boring to shoot it at distances of less than 500 meters. Usually it was 700 and more. Generally the shooting ranges were limited to a bit over 1000 meters, but the Tictac took the 1 klick distance easily. I shot it usually just below the 1 moa @900-1000, unless I really screwed the wind estimate. Well, the distances depend where the targets actually are, of course, but I mean during general practice.
One of my regular exercises was to put 1 round between the eyes at about 700-800 meters, walk to the target and back (to verify the hit), and repeat. I remember doing it up to 10 times in a row, before I was satisfied with the performance. I mean that I won't do it once, but can make it enough times in a row. Doing just one shot makes one concentrate on the important stuff, eventually putting all the rounds in 6-7 cm area. What I've done with it at close range (100 m or about) are the "know your limits" type of targets, or timed shots (for example loaded and safed rifle, standing behind it, drop down and put the hit on the paper in 5 seconds). I've shot it both prone and off-hand. I'd say it's 50% time with bipod, 50% everything else (bags, branches, window sills, offhand etc).
The setup - it has the original Tikka plastic stock, 3-12x56 on it with TMR-like reticle, Ase Utra SL7 for suppressor. The point is that it is very light, just slightly above 5 kg, loaded. 5 and half, if I recall. Well yes, it makes the recoil a little more interesting. But since I have to do the carry-everything-and-walk-everywhere stuff from time to time it is a bit important for me. Balance? Suppressor makes it a tad nose-heavy (and long). Strong arms do help. Otherwise I would prefer a more compact package for non-prone use. For example 20 in barrel with suppressor. Without the can the balance was quite fine for me (I shot it with plain barrel for about the quarter of time). And then you see how good a brake the can actually is. I don't fancy the brakes, though the 338 and 50 I used had these (shot these inside the vehicles, indoors etc, but it is another story altogether). Tictac with SL7.. it is quiet enough that I can shoot it easily without any ear protection.
Tikka Tactical has the same barrel as TRG. Whatever the Finnish smith has done with it, it is done well and these things are accurate. I don't recall any missed shot I've made that I could relate to the rifle and ammo. All have been me and called as such. Rushing the shot, crapping on wind calls. That kind of mental errors.
Oh, I've only used a really inefficient ammo for it. Sellier&Bellot 168 grain match (v0 about 920 m/s at 20 deg celcius, SMK bullet). Why? Because 300 WM is a non-standard calibre here and everyone using it either buys it or reloads. I don't reload, thus I buy. And it is sadly the only match ammo readily available here. I would prefer 190 or 208 grains for it. 168 is really light. Yes it reaches the 1000, even when it's -20 celsius outside, but wind carries it and makes correct calls more critical (also the transsonic performance sucks). It still had a lot of punch though. When shooting a target on the driver's seat through the windshield the bullet even broke the taillights.
I have thought about it, changing the stock that is, but never got to it. I have the original T3 Tactical, not the newer T3X one. What I did change was the plastic bolt cover. Got rid of it and put on the metal one (T3X one), it felt more solid. Why I didn't change the stock? When I was thinking about it I had few options. It is a long-action and 300 WM, around here no-one had anything for it, buying a stock from US brings the ITAR issue + extensive taxes. So basically I didn't find anything useful I could use and afford. And thus learned to live with the one I had.
What bothered me about it? I do like folding stocks, rifles that take less space in vehicles or when I have to put it in a backpack, or on it. On those occasions where I need both hands, like making my way through a river etc. I had no space on it to mount the NV device on, in front of the scope. And the stock is a little on the soft side. When shooting it prone&with bipod, when I lean more on it (with more force or weight) the forend will flex a little. Not that much that it would make a contact with the barrel, rather just about enough for you to know it's there. So what I prefer is a rigid chassis with a continuous rail on top of it and a folding stock. That is my preference, based on my experience and the work&shooting style I do.
What I like about the stock. It is light. Very light, helping to keep the weight of the whole system down. It is simple. I have little need for easy and fast adjustability on the field, I rather like having less knobs and wheels getting stuck on something or going loose. I have a bipod, sling loops on the side. A cheek rest. Basically I have most of the things I need (minus the thing I complained about). It is comfortable enough for me to live with it easily. Eventually I thought that a new stock or chassis doesn't give me enough boost in performance to justify the costs.
Tikka T3 Super Varmint .260 Rem (old skool is kool )
APA LB brake
Bartlein med Palma 26"
Warne 20MOA rail
Sterk bolt knob/shroud
MPA Comp chassis
Bix'n Andy trigger
)APA LB brake
Bartlein med Palma 26"
Warne 20MOA rail
Sterk bolt knob/shroud
MPA Comp chassis
Bix'n Andy trigger
Nothing wrong in 260rem, i love mine .
Here she is.
.Here she is.
I was born and raised east of you in Swan River Valley MB. Been thru your neck of the woods a time or 2 back in the day. You know what they say, right? A couple was on a cruise and seen some other tourists. Wife tells husband, "Go find out where they're from." He goes up, introduces himself, and wonders where they're from. They say, "Saskatoon Saskatchewan." Husband goes back and tells wife, "I dunno, they dont talk English."
Ok I'll shut up. More Tikkas please!
Finished my new hunting rifle, albeit ~9 months early.
T3X CTR- 20" 6.5 Creedmoor
Factory stock- modified KRG Bravo adjustable buttpad mechanism, Kalix Teknik adjustable cheek riser, Varmint forend
EOTech Vudu 3.5-18x50, MD1 reticle w/ EOtech rings
Insite Arms Heathen brake
Gunwerks bolt knob/Glades Armory bolt handle
Atlas BT10 w/ Atlas bipod rail
11.5 pounds with magazine
T3X CTR- 20" 6.5 Creedmoor
Factory stock- modified KRG Bravo adjustable buttpad mechanism, Kalix Teknik adjustable cheek riser, Varmint forend
EOTech Vudu 3.5-18x50, MD1 reticle w/ EOtech rings
Insite Arms Heathen brake
Gunwerks bolt knob/Glades Armory bolt handle
Atlas BT10 w/ Atlas bipod rail
11.5 pounds with magazine
I know this is a bit old but how has the ctr 6.5 with razor Gen 1 been, I was thinking about this exact set up
I was shooting at a ranch today and when we pulled back up to the camp, I realized that the thread protector for my 6.5 CM CTR was missing. I guess it got jostled loose when we were shooting and then riding all over in a gator did it the rest of the way.
I did a quick google search and found a few options, but none of them seem to have sizing or they are only quoted as Sako TRG. Does anyone have a recommendation for a place and/or information about what will fit? Thanks in advance.
Next one is definitely getting some blue loctite first.
I did a quick google search and found a few options, but none of them seem to have sizing or they are only quoted as Sako TRG. Does anyone have a recommendation for a place and/or information about what will fit? Thanks in advance.
Next one is definitely getting some blue loctite first.
The Thunderbeast Ultra7 makes a great thread protector.
Any cap that's threaded 5/8-24 should work fine.
If you want to pay the premium for OEM these are showing in stock.
https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/s54065088
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I did new 5x5 100-meter shot test yesterday.
I did not get the best out, since i did shoot this test quite fast with Stalon Victor suppressor on, so there was pritty deam much mirage in the air.
But still, KRG chassis 260rem Tikka with the factory barrel average is 0.5MOA.
And 308win Tikka CTR with MDT ESS chassis is little above that, this i need to improve, because i know that it can do better than this.
In my 260rem i have Timney trigger, with the crisp 16 oz trigger braking point, and i this 308win it is more than 23 oz
I did not get the best out, since i did shoot this test quite fast with Stalon Victor suppressor on, so there was pritty deam much mirage in the air.
But still, KRG chassis 260rem Tikka with the factory barrel average is 0.5MOA.
And 308win Tikka CTR with MDT ESS chassis is little above that, this i need to improve, because i know that it can do better than this.
In my 260rem i have Timney trigger, with the crisp 16 oz trigger braking point, and i this 308win it is more than 23 oz
Do you just remove all the foam in the stock when you install the Kalix Teknik? I know Tikka added the foam to reduce noise, but I'm curious if you noticed much difference.
My CTR is in a KRG Bravo, but I'm thinking one of these would be nice on my .243 Lite.
I did remove all the foam. I ended up stuffing the stock with some leftover soft foam from a Pelican case, but I’m not sure it makes much difference.
A few notes on the Kalix Teknik-
- It was pretty easy to install. The template they include worked well. The only problem I ran into was user error- I went too quickly when stepping up to the 12mm hole, and the bit grabbed hard and cracked the stock between the two holes. Nothing I couldn’t fix with a little epoxy, but something to keep in mind.
- I like the design, but it’s probably not the most durable. The cheek riser has a bit of flex to it, and I could imagine it breaking off the posts if hit hard in the up position. I’ll likely keep it down for transport and hard use situations.
- One positive aspect of the design is light weight. Once you subtract the weight of the factory CTR cheek riser it replaced, the Kalix Teknik only added 46 grams to the rifle.
I may have one I’d be happy to give you. I look through my stuff and see if I can find it
How many of you guys are using 2-stage trigger is Tikka T3 rifles?
I have Timny and i love it.
But i will get one of the KRG 2-t trigger too, even it is not the easiest task to get those.
I have Timny and i love it.
But i will get one of the KRG 2-t trigger too, even it is not the easiest task to get those.
For those of you with Bravos and the CTR how is the balance? My cousin is purchasing a T3X CTR 20" 6.5CM and i personally want him to go grayboe he likes stocks more anyway but i'm not sure when Grayboe will get the Renegade or Ridgeline out with T3 inlets.
If you do not use suppressor, balance is perfect, and with small supp, balance is not get too front weighted, but if it is big and bulky, it might be quite badly of the balance.
I use Ase Utra SL5i can, and it weight just about 11 oz, balance is great.
I use Ase Utra SL5i can, and it weight just about 11 oz, balance is great.
That's what i was wondering my X-ray when i ran it was light but lord it was front heavy as hell with 16oz can. Just no balance at all, granted i loved that chassis FWIW but that was one of my gripes for sure.
How do you like my young gunner shooting .
Lad is just 9-years old, and he dont be afraid 168gr 308win recoil.
Well, we have been shooting for a while, but now he has got the edge of this cartridge.
We shoot over a 2-years with my 260rem with 123gr and 140gr Lapua Scenar, but the recoil is not even close to full filled case and 168gr Scenar, or other bullet that heavy.
I am proud of my son.
.Lad is just 9-years old, and he dont be afraid 168gr 308win recoil.
Well, we have been shooting for a while, but now he has got the edge of this cartridge.
We shoot over a 2-years with my 260rem with 123gr and 140gr Lapua Scenar, but the recoil is not even close to full filled case and 168gr Scenar, or other bullet that heavy.
I am proud of my son
.How do you like my young gunner shooting
Lad is just 9-years old, and he dont be afraid 168gr 308win recoil.
Well, we have been shooting for a while, but now he has got the edge of this cartridge.
We shoot over a 2-years with my 260rem with 123gr and 140gr Lapua Scenar, but the recoil is not even close to full filled case and 168gr Scenar, or other bullet that heavy.
I am proud of my son
Anyone tried a Boyd’s stock with a Tikka yet? I have a bead on one for $100 and am thinking about giving it a go. Could make a good winter project with pillar and full length bedding along with an adjustable cheek rest.
Just wondering if anyone else has put their T3 in one. I know most will say go Bravo but I’ve seen no less than 2 dozen of those already, owned 2 of them myself... Looking for something a little different.
Rifle is a 28” 6.5 SAUM.
Just wondering if anyone else has put their T3 in one. I know most will say go Bravo but I’ve seen no less than 2 dozen of those already, owned 2 of them myself... Looking for something a little different.
Rifle is a 28” 6.5 SAUM.
I've considered picking one up to play around with since they're cheap enough but when I use their stock builder tool it shows they only have them for long action in the T3 CTR.
I considered a Boyd's for my T3x in 270 win, but I put in a snipershide group order for a Manners instead. Things changed drastically in my career, & I had to back out. Your damned if the $$ spent on the Boyd's doesn't work out. You get your $$ worth with a Manners, but top of the line always does cost more. And there is night and day difference between them I would imagine. The recoil of the 270 win with full loads made following through tough as nails. I rebarreld to 6-284, shooting 55 grain ballistic tips @ 4320 FPS. The amount of no recoil now with the muzzle brake makes me laugh every time I pull the trigger.
Well if the Boyd’s is inletted for a LA bottom metal then you could be SOL I guess. Not sure that’s the case though - probably not a bad idea to call and check. Worst case you could probably get one that is just inletted for the action and the bottom left alone... CDi usually prefers the BDL stocks when installing their bottom metals anyway.
I have a couple of friends I shoot with that have put their T3 308’s in Boyd Thumbhole stocks. Work really well & they are very happy with them. We can’t get them in the UK anymore since their price exceeded the $99 gun part limit export law
For the money they are an excellent buy.
How light have you set the trigger? I like a 10oz trigger and Bix'n Andy is the only one I can find that can reliably do that. I'm just a bit hesitant to sell a kidney to get one. Here in Australia they want about $800.Tikka T3 Super Varmint .260 Rem (old skool is kool
APA LB brake
Bartlein med Palma 26"
Warne 20MOA rail
Sterk bolt knob/shroud
MPA Comp chassis
Bix'n Andy trigger
View attachment 6989825
The stock Tikka trigger can be set very light, but you have to modify the trigger pressure grub screw. When wound out to maximum factory lightness it contacts the trigger unit mounting bolt head. If you remove the trigger unit & take a mm or two off the head of the grub screw, it will wind out further & lighten the pull. It’s still single stage, but everyone that has shot mine has been amazed at how light it is .
YMMV
. YMMV
I'll give it a try. I have the Yodave spring and can't get light enough without it slam firing (about 1lb 10oz).The stock Tikka trigger can be set very light, but you have to modify the trigger pressure grub screw. When wound out to maximum factory lightness it contacts the trigger unit mounting bolt head. If you remove the trigger unit & take a mm or two off the head of the grub screw, it will wind out further & lighten the pull. It’s still single stage, but everyone that has shot mine has been amazed at how light it is
YMMV
Originally my rifle had the factory set trigger which I loved and shot very well with, but discovered it was a bit of a disadvantage on timed stages. So I swapped it and haven't been as competitive since. Just trying to bring back my A game.
Careful now...The stock Tikka trigger can be set very light, but you have to modify the trigger pressure grub screw. When wound out to maximum factory lightness it contacts the trigger unit mounting bolt head. If you remove the trigger unit & take a mm or two off the head of the grub screw, it will wind out further & lighten the pull. It’s still single stage, but everyone that has shot mine has been amazed at how light it is
YMMV
I recall a discussion where somebody got accidental discharges after circumventing that built-in limiting on a Tikka. Discharge just by closing the action, not to speak about bumping the rifle.
I didn't know that about the action, pretty cool. I'll give Boyds a call next week just to see what they say. My current CTR is in a Manners but I'm going to eventually pick up a T1X and someone offered me a CTR in .260 that I'm thinking about. I'd like a cheaper stock option and don't mind doing the pillar and bedding work.
