We have MDT and a local Warrior which is very nice . I already have a custom Wood laminate stock for precision.
Have heard about that stock and seen it . Very nice .
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Have heard about that stock and seen it . Very nice .
OK, I finally did what I should have done in the first place.
Look at the holes.
There is no threading in the plastic, they are using M5 screws, which is what the picc rail is threaded for, after that they are threading directly into the plastic. That explains why it was so damn hard the entire time both putting in and removing their screws.
So since I ordered the chassis kit for the ARCA rail, I will stick with that. It comes with pan head screws by design to stay flush in the inlet, so I will use those.
Thanks John,
Yeah, I've wondered about the holes in the Bifrost not being threaded ... so, as silly a question as it may be, what would be the best attachment option for the rail that Henderson sells - in other words, to get the right screws to go into blind/unthreaded plastic of the Bifrost's holes' diametres?
They are correct, JBM and all the other stabilization / twist programs including the grand daddy of them all " The Greenhill formula " use bullet lengthHere is Berger bullets twist rate bullet stabilization calculator :
Twist Rate Stability Calculator
Our newly updated Twist Rate Stability Calculator not only tells you what your SG is, but it also lets you know if you are reaching your optimized BC.bergerbullets.com
I started fiddling around with that the other night once I learned that the .22-250 Tikka I bought and should be getting shipped right now has a 1:14 barrel twist rate. Turns out I have plenty of 69gr and 77gr SMK’s. Some fellas on another forum were saying that a 14 twist could send 69’s and 77’s keyholing through a target.
Ask me in a week.
I will use 2 screws in the holes provided. I will use a 3rd in the hole for the removed sling stud, since it is available.
Ideally, it looks like GRS wants using (their) bipod spigot mounted under the barrel. But that is pricier and not as much fun.
It should be fine for bipod usage, but I wouldn't want to be regularly using it against barricades with a heavy hand.
This should suffice. If not, one could always drill a couple more holes and run more screws.
Good thing I ordered the 419 clamp with barricade stop integrated, LOL.
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My first bolt action. Just finished assembly a little while ago. I am excited to share the outcome:
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Yes it will.
All Tikka rifles actions are same lenght, so there is no problemoz.
I think the CTR inlet is wider though. Is the super varmint stock using CTR or T3X magazines?
You are asking 3 questions at once.
Will the barreled action fit? Yes. Hence viking78's response above.
Will the ctr magazine fit into the bottom metal of the super varmint? No. Pic is lite bottom metal in a ctr stock.
Can you feed the ctr barreled action with the super varmint bottom metal and 308 magazine? Yes.
Now you have info so you can make your own decision.
I mounted the rail with the screws that came with the Chassis kit and I am not satisfied. The (metric) M5 screws that GRS provided with 1 picc rail seat much more firmly. I am going to look for some other screws.
I picked up a new Tikka T3 in .22-250 yesterday.
What would you recommend for a scope base and rings?
I am leaning towards a Picatinny rail base for a couple of reasons:
1. For daytime shooting, I can just borrow a scope and mount off of one of my flattop AR’s (mainly to test my handloads/reloads… but eventually for prarie dogs next year)
2. Most likely this fall and winter it will be wearing a Trijicon thermal for coyotes
What would you recommend for a scope base and rings?
I am leaning towards a Picatinny rail base for a couple of reasons:
1. For daytime shooting, I can just borrow a scope and mount off of one of my flattop AR’s (mainly to test my handloads/reloads… but eventually for prarie dogs next year)
2. Most likely this fall and winter it will be wearing a Trijicon thermal for coyotes
Attachments
I have been using the Mountain Tactical picatinny rail.
It comes in a couple lengths with varying MOA choices.
My ring preference is Aadland, then Seekins, then Talley.
I ended up ordering some Talleys for a 34mm scope, mostly because of availability. Aadland doesn't make 34mm, Seekins weren't in stock at my preferred vendor in the height I wanted. Also after listening to DLO, I decided not to overspend and see if the Talley's would do the job at a lower cost.
Edit (5/25/22) My preferred rings are now ARC. I sold the Talleys and have 3 sets of ARC and one ARC mount.
I won't sell the Aadland(s).
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I've used multiple brand pic rails on multiple tikka's over the years and nothing came close to the fit and finish of the Area 419.
They are a little more expensive but worth it.
Besides the factory CTR rail they are one of the lowest profiles I've seen.
Tikka T3 Standard Action 20MOA Improved Scope Rail
At Area 419 we decided that there were no scope bases on the market that really met our requirements for quality, so we made our own. Its all in the little details that set this base apart from the competition. These are machined in house on our 4-axis HAAS VMC from 7075 Aluminum. Straight...
www.area419.com
Anyone have experience with the MPA BA tikka chassis and the weight kits? What works and what doesn’t?
Has anyone here had issues with rounds nosediving in the CTR mags? I'm running 6XC and had some serious issues at a match last weekend. XC is a full sized cartridge, not BR based, so I wouldn't expect the nose diving to happen, but it did in both my TRG and CTR mags, worse with the CTR mag. I eneded up messing with the springs a bit, and I managed to only get two nose dives per stage after that, and I managed to work around it by getting my face off the gun and messing with the round using my fingers, etc.
For context, I'm running a KRG CTR chassis with TRG/CTR mags on a T3 receiver, 6CX loaded fairly long with 112 Match Burners.
For context, I'm running a KRG CTR chassis with TRG/CTR mags on a T3 receiver, 6CX loaded fairly long with 112 Match Burners.
If it’s the same as the Tac a1 mags, then you need to remove the follower and spring and change the shape so the front of the follower is horizontal to the rest (or a fraction above). There is a thread on how to do it somewhere on the forum, takes a couple of minutes and mine now feeds every time factory or my longer pal home loads
Google Tikka CTR magazine fix. I pulled mine apart and bent the follower spring and took care of the same problem.
This fixed it. I loaded up a bunch of dummy rounds, nose dives are lessening with just one attempt at bending the feed lips. I'll bet with some more tweaking, it will be perfect.
Used this fix:
I didn't know you could get the follower and spring out.
I picked up my t3x a1 a couple of months ago, haven’t shot it yet. I grew up hunting in Washington state and always shot right handed bolt guns and I shoot right handed. The tikka I decided to get a left hand bolt because I’m using it for long range shots only on a bench. I’ve always felt comfortable shooting left handed or right, but I got the left hand bolt to shoot right handed and operate the bolt with my left hand. It feels very comfortable for me operating the bolt with my left hand. I was curious if anyone out there is shooting the same way.
Thank you sir!
If I ordered through Mountain Tactical, at least I could get a new bolt shroud too.
Thanks for the reply!I've used multiple brand pic rails on multiple tikka's over the years and nothing came close to the fit and finish of the Area 419.
They are a little more expensive but worth it.
Besides the factory CTR rail they are one of the lowest profiles I've seen.
Tikka T3 Standard Action 20MOA Improved Scope Rail
At Area 419 we decided that there were no scope bases on the market that really met our requirements for quality, so we made our own. Its all in the little details that set this base apart from the competition. These are machined in house on our 4-axis HAAS VMC from 7075 Aluminum. Straight...
View attachment 7682186
You will have to bear with me since I am from Illinois, and we don’t do much shooting with rifles beyond say 100 yards.
This is going to come off as really dumb question:
What does using a 20MOA base get me or gain me versus say a zero MOA base… in a .22-250 that might only be used on prairie dogs most likely out to 350 yards?
I have not looked at coyotes at night with thermal, but I hear the range with thermal is like limited to 250 yards as well.
Nothing. I have a straight 0 MOA base on a straight rail mounted on a .308. Using a scope with target turrets, I run out of elevation at around 1000 meters. If you use a straight shooting cartridge like a .22-250 for much shorter ranges you should be ok even with a scope design that isn't long range oriented.
For anyone wondering about the repeatability of the manners tikka mini chassis... this is after pulling the action to install an arca rail. This was a good zero confirmation. Feeds awesome too highly recommend.
I love my taca1 in 308. Check out this video I made of shooting it at 1k with my "bullet cam" POV!
Lol. I was in such a hurry to go to the range that I forgot to put my range shoes on so I thought I'd make a joke about it.
The only thing it will get you at that range is the need for a higher cheek weld on the stock. So there's that aspect to consider.
So here is the 3" ARCA bolted into the Bifrost.
The black screw is a M5-0.8x12mm which can be found at Home Depot in the drawers of special hardware. If I put a thin brass washer under it then the cap head is too high and wont allow traversal of the bipod on the rail.
The middle screw is a M6-1x12mm, which was something I had floating around. This fits securely where the sling stud was mounted. It has a washer to center it in the rail.
Yes, I can put another M5 in the front there. I will see if I think it is necessary. As it is, the M5s aren't biting enough rail. In this configuration above, I moved the rail all the way forward so the end of the screw cap is clamping down on the leftmost end of the rail slot. Clearly that won't be possible with the other end slot, and since I can't use a washer to get more force, why bother.
The screws in the chassis kit I ordered with the rail I don't like, when they bottomed out, I easily started to strip them, at levels much lower than these are torqued down with.
So, of course, if I use the barricade accessory, then the bipod legs won't go fully forward.
The black screw is a M5-0.8x12mm which can be found at Home Depot in the drawers of special hardware. If I put a thin brass washer under it then the cap head is too high and wont allow traversal of the bipod on the rail.
The middle screw is a M6-1x12mm, which was something I had floating around. This fits securely where the sling stud was mounted. It has a washer to center it in the rail.
Yes, I can put another M5 in the front there. I will see if I think it is necessary. As it is, the M5s aren't biting enough rail. In this configuration above, I moved the rail all the way forward so the end of the screw cap is clamping down on the leftmost end of the rail slot. Clearly that won't be possible with the other end slot, and since I can't use a washer to get more force, why bother.
The screws in the chassis kit I ordered with the rail I don't like, when they bottomed out, I easily started to strip them, at levels much lower than these are torqued down with.
So, of course, if I use the barricade accessory, then the bipod legs won't go fully forward.
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Tikka folks, does anyone know of something like the KRG bravo or MDT XRS that will work for a left-handed Tikka T3X short action? I am trying to set up my t3x 6.5cm as a hybrid target / occasional hunting rig but nobody seems to make this (even Tikka's UPR is righty-only). I could just buy a Bergara but I love my Tikkas and want to stay with them if I can. TIA.
Yep, I just had a gunsmith do my X-Ray. Just be aware that you need to cut away both the outer plastic as well as some of the metal frame. On mine, there was a small air bubble in the plastic (or possibly the relief cut slightly through the plastic, although this seems unlikely, as we used a steeper angle than the factory/RHS cut):
But no-one's going to notice when the bolt's closed, of course:
And, overall she looks purty good:
The adjustment knob under your chin is a PITA; on mine, the knob and its retaining/'filler' plate comes out easily, but not the one on the opposite side ... not sure if it's meant to, but I might contact KRG and ask them, as it would be good to swap it if possible ...
But no-one's going to notice when the bolt's closed, of course:
And, overall she looks purty good:
The adjustment knob under your chin is a PITA; on mine, the knob and its retaining/'filler' plate comes out easily, but not the one on the opposite side ... not sure if it's meant to, but I might contact KRG and ask them, as it would be good to swap it if possible ...
I converted mine. The cheek riser knob didn't get in the way but I modified it to fit from the opposite side so it looked right. It wasn't a big job but it was over a year ago so I don't recall the exact method. I can snap some photos if you like. I also made a filler block for the original RH bolt cutout, I think it looks tidier even with the rough 3d printing job.
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Thanks - yep, I also just got confirmation from KRG - the nut/block on the LHS is swappable to be RHS, but will possibly need to be driven out with a punch.
I'm in Australia so probably not worth the postage for you. I have uploaded it to thingiverse so you can download the file and have someone local 3d print it for you: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4739508
