Tikka T3X TAC A1

#151
Tikka Tinker said:
I am selling the remainder of the 20 MOA rails I have left. $240 shipped to lower 48. Send me a PM if interested.
Note: these will only fit the TAC A1 model.
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I bought one of these off Tikka Tinker and I'm happy with it. I only stripped one screw getting the stock rail off, and his replacement dropped right in perfectly. He even included a spare screw, which is great because I have a habit of losing small stuff in my workshop. It sits a tiny bit higher than the stock rail, but gave my Vortex PST Gen II enough clearance on Steiner extra high rings that my scope caps fit with just under 1/8" of space to spare.

Overall there are cheaper options for the T3X line, but I haven't seen anything made for the Tac A1 specifically. If you're like me and not a fan of how one piece mounts look on bolt guns, this is pretty much your only option for the Tac A1. I'm very happy with it.
 
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#152
I have two tac a1 rifles. One in 308 and the other is a 260. I have nothing but great things to say about both of them. With factory fed gmm ammo they will shoot half moa and with my handloads they are grouping around.25 moa. I am probably a. 25 moa shooter so they might shoot even better then that. Bolt cycles super smooth and the mags work perfect. My only complaint would be the zero moa rail. I purchased a aftermarket 20moa rail but it wouldn't match up to the handrail or forearm so I send it back. I purchased a 20 moa supr mount for both. You won't regret getting one of these rifles.
 
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#154
Jon @ Area 419 just announced / released their new rail for the Tikka T3x models and I let him know that there was a need for a TAC A1 specific rail. If someone was so inclined to contact him with some photos and measements, there could be a new source for inclined rails for these rifles.
 
#156
Has anyone put anything over cheek riser on their TAC A1 - for padding or something?
Similar to a McRees rear stock pack?

I snagged a Left Hand TAC A1 in 6.5CM today from GB, wondering how comfortable the cheek piece is or if anyone had done anything in that area.

Thanks!
 
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#157
I have found no need so far. Yeah, its plastic, but it is curved enough so it is comfortable enough for my cheek shooting as long as I have ammo on any particular day. My opinion may change if I ever take it out in freezing weather though.... I live in Socal so that may never be a problem.
 
#158
awpk03s said:
Has anyone put anything over cheek riser on their TAC A1 - for padding or something?
Similar to a McRees rear stock pack?

I snagged a Left Hand TAC A1 in 6.5CM today from GB, wondering how comfortable the cheek piece is or if anyone had done anything in that area.
Click to expand...
It's not uncomfortable. But I was bored so I cut a piece of adhesive-backed suede to fit mine, and it's even better now.
 
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#159
awpk03s said:
Has anyone put anything over cheek riser on their TAC A1 - for padding or something?
Similar to a McRees rear stock pack?

I snagged a Left Hand TAC A1 in 6.5CM today from GB, wondering how comfortable the cheek piece is or if anyone had done anything in that area.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I use a maxi-pad. They make shooting so comfortable. I prefer Always with wings as it provides just a little extra protection but I suppose any brand will do as long as they are for heavy flow for the added cushion.
 
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#160
For you 6.5 Creedmoor Tikka T3 Tac A1 handloaders out there, how long is your COAL? I find that 2.950 OAL puts my Hornady 147g bullets .015 off the lands. This puts the bullet base right at the bottom of the neck. I feel this is a bit too long for a brand new barrel with no chamber wear. This is well beyond magazine and SAMMI specs, plus there is zero room to lengthen the COAL to jam the lands. As the throat wears, I have no room to lengthen the COAL either. I am new to 6.5 Creedmore and Tikka. Thoughts?
 
#161
FWIW - I just received my LH A1 6.5CM two days ago. I measured two boxes of 140gr ELD-Ms and the vast majority are 1.372" long (none are over 1.373', some as short as 1.3715"). Which is different than the measurement Litz and Hornady (emailed) state - 1.374. I know the ballistic tip-length is a known variable and the key is the bullet ogive.

I tried the cleaning rod procedure to ascertain COAL touching landes and got 2.84". So for my first loads I'm going to with .020" jump.

OMG, that was one dirty barrel. I used Kroil, #9, and Hoppe's copper cleaner to make sure barrel was clean for first firing.

Followup - found one 1.374" bullet, so I'm using that as a baseline to load CBTO 2.280", with .20" jump and 2.895" COAL.
 
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#162
I shoot a 260 with a 140 eldx bullet. I load it so that it barely fits in the magazine. It shoots 1/3 inch groups all day long. I have hit one mile with it once. 1000 yards gets a little boring. These things shoot. Load it to the spec's that it should be loaded and shoot it.
 
#169
I just bought a Tikka T3x TAC A1 LH from EuroOptic and would like to get a trigger shoe for it. All my rifles have trigger shoes and I've been using them for 30 years. After some research, Diversified Innovative Products make a trigger shoe for the SakoQuad blade that also fits the T3. Will it also fit the blade of my rifle? In other words, are the blades the same for the SakoQuad, T3 and my rifle? Any help will be appreciated.
 
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#173
IDbound said:
Does anyone have instructions or suggestions for removing the scope rail? I have the screws out but rail is still solidly attached.
Click to expand...

Covered at length here. Heat is the key..
Use a heat gun or even a clothes iron to heat the adhesive To soften it up, then the rail can be removed pretty easily.
Go easy so you don’t tweak the rail for use later.
 
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#176
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#177
#178
You mean area 419? The tac a1 rail is taller than most and also has a threaded hole on the front. Kind of a specific item. I checked with area 419 they don't have them.
 
#179
Thanks for correcting me. I also neglected to add some important details to my last post. I am attempting to move from a Tac A1 to a GRS Bifrost. I have a T3 bottom metal incoming that I have been told will fit the GRS T3 inlet. Now I am attempting to lower the height of my Tac A1 scope rail as I no longer have the Tac handguard to clear. Thus the thoughts of using either threArea 419 or EGW.
 
#181
I know this thread is older, but I am hoping its not dead. I just got my Tac A1. Can anyone tell me if I can buy aftermarket magazines for it. I couldn’t find any information online about it. Thanks.
 
#183
IDbound said:
I had a guy tell me the EGW was on the cheap end and that I should look at an Area 51. Does anyone have any experience with either and how much lower are they compared to the stock Tac rail?
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Did the "guy" have any actual experience with EGW parts? For some reason, I doubt he has. Area 419 has a standard T3x rail, and it is of excellent quality. To my knowledge only EGW has a TacA1 specific 20MOA rail.

EGW never has been "on the cheap end". Over the course of the last 10 years, I've used many of their 1911 parts, and now Tikka standard T3x 20MOA rail and scope rings. Everything is, and has always been, absolutely top tier quality. I do plan on getting the TacA1 rail when it is back in stock and have absolutely no doubt it will be excellent in fit, finish, and craftsmanship.

EGW's TacA1 rail has the two recoil pins and here's a good video made by the owner of EGW on how it goes together on the rifle.

 
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#184
clcustom1911 said:
Did the "guy" have any actual experience with EGW parts? For some reason, I doubt he has. Area 419 has a standard T3x rail, and it is of excellent quality. To my knowledge only EGW has a TacA1 specific 20MOA rail.

EGW never has been "on the cheap end". Over the course of the last 10 years, I've used many of their 1911 parts, and now Tikka standard T3x 20MOA rail and scope rings. Everything is, and has always been, absolutely top tier quality. I do plan on getting the TacA1 rail when it is back in stock and have absolutely no doubt it will be excellent in fit, finish, and craftsmanship.

EGW's TacA1 rail has the two recoil pins and here's a good video made by the owner of EGW on how it goes together on the rifle.

Click to expand...


Well that is certainly the type of personal experience I was looking for. I am sure Area 419 produces good products but glad to hear that if I come across an EGW, that it would be worthy purchasing.
 
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#185
My Tac A1.... 203 yards today.....
Screenshot_20200115-125449.jpg
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Got my seating depth testing loaded up...

20200115_174728.jpg
 
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#186
Ran a Tac A1 for about a year. They are great guns especially for the money. Shot most everything I put in it 0.5 or better. Only downsides:

Mags can be finicky when run dirty, hard and fast...at least the three I had were, keep em clean and you should be good.

Barrels are slow and the throat is long, shoot it out then rebarrel it and use bullets that are jump tolerant and you’ll be fine.

Please don’t take the downsides as trying to dissuade you, just sharing experience. It is a great gun and I wish I had another one.
 
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#187
FYI - there are a couple of mag fixes on YouTube about bending the spring very subtly in certain directions to improve feeding. They flat out work. I was running into issues with feeding where cartridges where feeding nose up and the bolt would pass right over them on cycling. At that time I had put about 2,000 rounds through the rifle but none the less it was annoying at matches. I took apart the mags and bent the springs as the tutorials instructed and haven't had a feeding issue since.
 
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#190
Cheeseburger1976 said:
And I totally agree. Someone suggested EGW To me years ago and told me they were about 15 minutes from where I live (the factory and headquarters) I assumed that meant they sucked. Upon doing my own research I found it to be the complete opposite and I was lucky to have them in my backyard.
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I have been a satisfied EGW customer for 25 years.
 
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#192
Hi. Just wondering about mag sizes on these. I have several CTR mags for my 6.5 CM Tikkas. Thinking of getting a 223 caliber barelled action to drop into my Tac AC1. Would that need different magazine? Or will it feed from the same CTR magazine? Thanks
 
#194
awpk03s said:
Has anyone put anything over cheek riser on their TAC A1 - for padding or something?
Similar to a McRees rear stock pack?

I snagged a Left Hand TAC A1 in 6.5CM today from GB, wondering how comfortable the cheek piece is or if anyone had done anything in that area.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I'm curious about this too, if anyone ever found a solution? In my case, I want to add about 1/2" to the height of the factory riser for best scope/eye alignment. I tried some 1/2" adhesive foam, but it made the cheek riser too wide (and subsequently was a major PITA to remove all the residue...) I'd love to find something like the Wiebad Mini Stock Pad for the TAC A1.
 
#195
southy said:
I'm curious about this too, if anyone ever found a solution? In my case, I want to add about 1/2" to the height of the factory riser for best scope/eye alignment. I tried some 1/2" adhesive foam, but it made the cheek riser too wide (and subsequently was a major PITA to remove all the residue...) I'd love to find something like the Wiebad Mini Stock Pad for the TAC A1.
Click to expand...

I’m in the same boat (I’m a lefty as well, too). I picked up a set of Hoptic saddle blankets (they come in two packs) and stacked them on mine. (https://www.hopticusa.com/product-page/tikka-t3x-tac-a1-saddle-blanket)

Unfortunately they started to peel up almost immediately, so I rubber banded them down for a few days and that appears to have done the trick. I can’t speak to the long term durability as I’m sure a few days out in the heat or cold will probably work them loose eventually, but it’s working for now. Even stacking both, it’s still not quite enough height and yet also pushes my cheek weld outboard a little too much, though. So, I may work on drafting up something I can 3D print and stick on top of the cheek piece that will hold up more permanently. I’ll share here if I can work something out.
 
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#196
Does anyone make a spacer that fits in where the QD bracket goes on the chassis above the grip? I removed the QD mount, its pointless and in the way. It would be nice if someone made a spacer to fit in that empty hole.

I don't know what kind of loctite that Tikka uses on those 5mm bolts (Blue) but holy shit. Took the heat wrench and ALOT of force to break them lo0se.
 
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