what height would useful? I have AR height mounts already. or would I need lower?..
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Tikka T3X TAC A1
- Thread starter AK49
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what height would useful? I have AR height mounts already. or would I need lower?..
I'm using a Spuhr 4602 20 MOA on mine, height of 1.5", clears a 50mm objective with plenty of room.
Do you really want a cantilever mount on a bolt action (too far forward) or doesn't it matter on a T3x A1 chassis? I've been seeing regular rings and mounts on then. I thought cantilever mounts were more for ARs.
You don't need a cantilever for a bolt gun, the main reason for them is for ARs to allow proper eye relief on rifles that either have no forend rail or one that is not the same piece as the receiver rail. On bolt guns cantilevers look weird/bad IMHO.
Unimounts are completely appropriate for a bolt gun
Yes, mine came with a brake. It comes with one QD mount for the rail but there are two in the rear of the stock. It comes with 2 mags plus one thru the promo.
Try this website. But TAC A1 info/response is sparse. I've asked for a measurement several times on three websites and not gotten a satisfactory response. Must be me.?
http://www.tikkashooters.com/public_html/index.php
Conaso, what measurement are you looking for? I can pull my son's TAC A1 out of the safe & take a measurement for you if I have the right tool to measure it with.
R4B
I ordered one today from Grab-A-Gun - couldn't pass up the price @ $1499 - but I went to look for the Free Mag Promotion and it says the form must be SUBMITTED online by Feb28 with the receipt that includes either the serial number or 4473.
I don't have that. any idea what I can do?..
I don't have that. any idea what I can do?..
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Thank you. I'm waiting for the left-hand version to come out so I can't measure it myself.
I would like to know the height from the center of the boreline to the top of the rail. That info, with my scope-mount height, 1.5", will give me the scope height for my ballistics program, e.g., ? + 1.5" = 2.5" scope height.
It's about 1.25" according to my calipers but I'm eyeballing because I have an optic mounted. When I measure center of my optic to center of bore I get 2.5" with a 1.3" tall mount.
well holy hell...
I FINALLY got THE DUDE from Beretta/Tikka on the phone and learned they are extending the Free Mag Promo another year and are updating the website today to reflect that.
evidently, there has been good response to this (over 1000 claims) and I added my input that it was specifically this promotion that swayed me to the TAC A1 and away from Bergara Pro. the guy sounded like he REALLY appreciated that bit of feedback...
anyway, Tikka T3x 24" barrelled action with 2-stage trigger, in a folding chassis (even if Low-Light thinks it's kinda Low-End), TRG22 muzzle brake, AND 3 10rd mags for $1500 was too hard to pass up for this child...
I FINALLY got THE DUDE from Beretta/Tikka on the phone and learned they are extending the Free Mag Promo another year and are updating the website today to reflect that.
evidently, there has been good response to this (over 1000 claims) and I added my input that it was specifically this promotion that swayed me to the TAC A1 and away from Bergara Pro. the guy sounded like he REALLY appreciated that bit of feedback...
anyway, Tikka T3x 24" barrelled action with 2-stage trigger, in a folding chassis (even if Low-Light thinks it's kinda Low-End), TRG22 muzzle brake, AND 3 10rd mags for $1500 was too hard to pass up for this child...
I ordered mine today as well and yep they did update the website with 2019 as the deadline now.
I tried to pass this deal up especially since right now you can buy the Ruger Precision rifle in 6mm Creedmoor for only $799!
However, I really wanted the Tikka more so that’s the way I went.
great, glad to be of help. after running the numbers on this vs. a CTR and building it, getting 3 mags was a factor.
as a beginner, I wanted a rifle with known accuracy using store bought ammo that I could essentially remove from the equation and just focus on my technique/fundamentals.
I don't know why but the Ruger never appealed to me. the Rems, Savages, etc., are a known quantity to me and I wanted something else. after I put my hands on a Bergara HMR it came down to the Tikka...
After factoring in the crappy WA state sales tax that all WA FFLs have to collect and a $30 transfer fee, even at $1499 it sadly comes out $100 more out of pocket than buying from Cabela's with discount gift cards.
true, they are more bang for the buck that way. I just have way too many so I use them as baseline for any deal.
anyways, back to the regular thread discussion...
I picked mine up today. Arrived at my FFL yesterday. Thanks to Euro Optics for fast shipping. I ordered it Wednesday.
Got home. Cleaned the bore with a bore snake. Mounted my DMR 2 with high Mark 4 rings until I can get a 20 moa one piece mount.
Need to order dies. Bought 2 boxes of Hornady Black went out in the backyard to sight in and shoot. Ran 10 rounds down the barrel. Very soft recoil and shot really well.
I am happy with my purchase.
Curious though if everyone uses the TRG brake? Or go with something else.
Got home. Cleaned the bore with a bore snake. Mounted my DMR 2 with high Mark 4 rings until I can get a 20 moa one piece mount.
Need to order dies. Bought 2 boxes of Hornady Black went out in the backyard to sight in and shoot. Ran 10 rounds down the barrel. Very soft recoil and shot really well.
I am happy with my purchase.
Curious though if everyone uses the TRG brake? Or go with something else.
I purchased one a few months ago and put around 50 rounds down it just to see if it was worth my time and money. The groups were way better then I expected from a factory rifle. So I had the barrel cut down, threaded and timed for my suppressor. This thing is a hammer!
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Personally, I love the concept, but having a T3 CTR in 308 - don't really "need" anything on the new one. It'd be difference if I needed night gear, etc.
I still am amazed that they were willing to potentially cannibalize Sako sales by offering a tac oriented Tikka like this.
I still am amazed that they were willing to potentially cannibalize Sako sales by offering a tac oriented Tikka like this.
Can the barreled action of the tac a1 be removed and placed in a Manners stock? Been thinking about doing this.
wait, you already own the tac A1? you don't like the chassis? that's a lot of money to spend for a barrelled action. if it were me, I'd sell the Tac A1 and get a CTR on whatever flavor you like blued or stainless...
wanna sell the mags?..
as it's the one that comes with it, that's the one I'll be using. it took me a lot of analysis to decide on the Tac A1 vs. the CTR and moving the barrelled action to another stock, etc.
for what it's worth, as a beginner I wanted something I know is going to work right out of the box, and that video of Rob Ski putting 10 rounds into .6MOA is pretty convincing. eventually I may begin to swap parts out but I'm confident that it will do better than 1MOA as delivered...
wait, you already own the tac A1? you don't like the chassis? that's a lot of money to spend for a barrelled action. if it were me, I'd sell the Tac A1 and get a CTR on whatever flavor you like blued or stainless...
wanna sell the mags?..
I kinda like the traditional look of rifles but it is just something I'm thinking about. Only stock I found available is the Manners T6A. If I found a T2A or T4A I'd do it in an instant.
I like traditional look too but I meant that you'd probably be money ahead if you sold the Tac A1, then bought a CTR and the Manners stock. that should get you just about even.
wanna sell your Tikka mags?..
I like traditional look too but I meant that you'd probably be money ahead if you sold the Tac A1, then bought a CTR and the Manners stock. that should get you just about even.
wanna sell your Tikka mags?..
My tikka mags should work with the manners stock right?
I saw ARobinson's attempt to replace the top rail with a 20 moa rail. I took my TAC A1 apart this weekend to check out the trigger (more about that in a minute) and as I disassembled it I noticed that the collar for the handguard screws to the chassis at the bottom and into the rail at the top. Unless a manufacturer comes out with a specific replacement then swapping out for a 20 moa rail is not going to work. The rail needs to be specifically machined to mate with the collar. I'll follow Mountain Tactical's advice and get a 20 moa mount from Seekins.
I also contacted Dave at Yodave about a replacement spring. He wasn't sure if his T3 spring would work in the TAC A1's two stage trigger. So I pulled my trigger assembly off and the short answer is no, it doesn't look like it will work. The spring is contained within the assembly and I'm not about to start pulling the trigger apart. I've adjusted the trigger to Tikka's recommendations and it's excellent at just over 2 lbs.
I also contacted Dave at Yodave about a replacement spring. He wasn't sure if his T3 spring would work in the TAC A1's two stage trigger. So I pulled my trigger assembly off and the short answer is no, it doesn't look like it will work. The spring is contained within the assembly and I'm not about to start pulling the trigger apart. I've adjusted the trigger to Tikka's recommendations and it's excellent at just over 2 lbs.
I've got a new Tikka T3X A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. The front handguard uses the M-LOK system, and I want to attach a front bag rider to it so I can use it with my Randolph front rest for 300 and 600 yard benchrest matches.
The EGW I bought is built for their handguards, so it's going back. I've considered their unit that utilized a picatinny rail, which could easily attach to the bottom of the rifle.
However, FWIW they get pretty bad ratings from those who've bought them at Midway, and I'm skeptical about going that route.
I contacted Competition Machining/gotoxring and they replied that they don't have a licensing agreement to make M-Lok compatible parts.
Any suggestions? Any insight or experience will be appreciated.
The EGW I bought is built for their handguards, so it's going back. I've considered their unit that utilized a picatinny rail, which could easily attach to the bottom of the rifle.
However, FWIW they get pretty bad ratings from those who've bought them at Midway, and I'm skeptical about going that route.
I contacted Competition Machining/gotoxring and they replied that they don't have a licensing agreement to make M-Lok compatible parts.
Any suggestions? Any insight or experience will be appreciated.
Just an update on optic mounting solutions for this rifle since it has a 0 moa rail.
I ordered the Badger Ordnance 20 moa unimount in the 1.3” height. There is about 1/16” clearance between a DMR 2 and the pic rail on the hand guard.
No room for caps. Sending back and getting the ultra high version which is 1.5” which based on my calculations should provide a total of 3/16” clearance. Hope this helps.
I ordered the Badger Ordnance 20 moa unimount in the 1.3” height. There is about 1/16” clearance between a DMR 2 and the pic rail on the hand guard.
No room for caps. Sending back and getting the ultra high version which is 1.5” which based on my calculations should provide a total of 3/16” clearance. Hope this helps.
Yep, that should work. I have the DMR2 with the Spuhr 1.5" high with Aadmount caps, still have clearance.
thanks, yeah I saw that and was going to edit my question but then the phone rang...
Tac A1 is a Tac-driver (haha) I shot one and was almost sold on it other than the proprietary mags as I already have a pile of AICS/KRG/Magpul/Ruger GSR mags. Ended up finding a CTR T3X 20 inch in 6.5 CM on sale for 900 and bought it with plans to go chassis later. Shot .75 MOA out the box with bulk hornady 140s. KRG bravo chassis and it now shoots .5 MOA with bulk and better with loads. I've yet to figure out pics on this site or I'd share.
I bought the Spuhr 4602 20MOA, hoping the 1.5" height lets the Vortex Razor 56mm obj and covers clear the rail. Holding out for the A1 lefty.
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