Tikka T3X TAC A1

#201
Another Lefty here and about to drop the hammer on a TAC A1 in 308. Been reading about the WTF on changing the "o" MOA mount / base to a 20 MOA. So my question is, is a 20 MOA mount necessary for a 600 yd range limit ?
Probably be shooting either 155 Palma's @ 2800 or 168 SMK's at 2700 ??
 
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#203
Baddog 0302 said:
Another Lefty here and about to drop the hammer on a TAC A1 in 308. Been reading about the WTF on changing the "o" MOA mount / base to a 20 MOA. So my question is, is a 20 MOA mount necessary for a 600 yd range limit ?
Probably be shooting either 155 Palma's @ 2800 or 168 SMK's at 2700 ??
Click to expand...
I've repeatedly encountered the Tikka recommendation that the rail not be replaced, but that one should use rings or one-piece mount that provide the 20 MOA if desired. If 600 were max range, I wouldn't believe it to be necessary to bother with for most any hunting, much less tactical, scope.
Have fun!
 
#204
clcustom1911 said:
Andddddddd? Difference in accuracy from factory configuration?
Click to expand...

The same as far as I can tell. I've only shot Hornady Match factory ammo. Zeroing went well, the match not so much. But that is more me than the rifle. I did have to recheck zero during the match and found my Spuhr rings a tad loose. The rings not the base. Was a little low.

I prefer the Bravo to the OEM chassis based on fell and the balance is near perfect.


A couple of groups from zeroing.

Ballistic-X-Export-2020-06-30 12:20:33.511060.png


Ballistic-X-Export-2020-06-30 12:23:00.235354.png
 
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#205
What is your all in weight with the Bravo? Must be quite a bit lighter than the Tikka chassis. I have a Bravo on my T1X , but haven't felt the need yet to get one for my TAC
 
#209
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#211
If you're going the route of adding a MDT skeleton stock, just buy an entire ACC chassis. It's definitely worth it. I just recently sold my Tac A1 chassis and dropped the action in a ACC and it was the best thing I ever did to that rifle.
 
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#217
I'd like to do the same. I really like the Bravo chassis on my TX1. I would also miss the folder. What is the all in weight of your TAC in the Bravo?
 
#222
I bought an LE model from Eurooptic missing the brake but Eurooptic said they’d take care of it. Pussed out in buying a trg.
So far I like it. Still struggling to get comfortable with chassis but I think that will clear up when the bipod mount comes in. I think its its my sand bag combo.
Anyone using a mod 0 BCM pistol grip?


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#224
FarmallA said:
bought an LE model from Eurooptic missing the brake but Eurooptic said they’d take care of it. Pussed out in buying a trg.
So far I like it. Still struggling to get comfortable with chassis but I think that will clear up when the bipod mount comes in. I think its its my sand bag combo.
Anyone using a mod 0 BCM pistol grip?


View attachment 7569792
View attachment 7569793

View attachment 7569794View attachment 7569796
Click to expand...

I went from the ergo, which I liked on my AR, to a masterpiece arms, very happy with that combo

0-DB43-C42-79-EF-46-AE-BA7-E-96586123-A66-A.jpg
 
#225
CrabsandFootball said:
Does anyone make a spacer that fits in where the QD bracket goes on the chassis above the grip? I removed the QD mount, its pointless and in the way. It would be nice if someone made a spacer to fit in that empty hole.

I don't know what kind of loctite that Tikka uses on those 5mm bolts (Blue) but holy shit. Took the heat wrench and ALOT of force to break them lo0se.
Click to expand...
Just an FYI. I am working on machining a part to eliminate this and fill the hole. We have a prototype but just getting everything dialed in for CNC production.
 
#227
Billiam1211 said:
ERGO makes a nice vertical grip that blends well with the Tac A1 chassis. I ran that for about a year and then dropped the action in an ACC chassis tho 🤷🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...
I agree, I've used the ergo vertical grip on my tac a1 before and after switching to a cadex chassis. It's worked well and looks good.
20210104_162419.jpg
20210130_162302.jpg
 
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#229
I've used all 3 at one point or another but currently use the MDT vertical grip on my ACC chassis. I'm not picky and would run with any one of them in regards to function. I like the way the ERGO looks the best but I think the MDT grip helps repeat the same trigger press because it's so big and allows your hand to have a few anchor points.
 
#231
Brake came in today. It was shipped to the shop I had the rifle shipped too. Not sure why Berretta didn't ask Eurooptic for my address. But its here. Bipod mount is the last thing to get. That TRG brake is huge. Do I want a mirage band for the gun?
6E6BCFF7-C494-4DEE-9717-02E90B735810.jpeg
 
#232
Any if you Tac A1 guys use the 140 AMAX in their 260? I've got a pile of them and a jug of 4451 and thought I'd piggy back off of someone before working up a load 😂
 
#234
TurboTrout said:
What other ways is it adjustable?

Not trying to argue, they just seem very similar
Click to expand...
The only difference is that the Cadex has more LOP adjustment. Actually the cheek piece in the Tikka can be adjusted at different angles, whereas the cadex can't. 🤷‍♂️
Both chassis are nice, however, the cadex does have the more premium feel and fitment to it.
The reason I changed to the cadex was that my tac a1 would rust everytime I took it hunting even though I'd clean it/oil it up. Not a huge issue but it got irritating, wouldn't stop me from buying the gun though in hindsight.
Obligatory pic from this last weekend ➡️
20210304_184518.jpg
 
#235
Vivacious Stallion said:
The only difference is that the Cadex has more LOP adjustment. Actually the cheek piece in the Tikka can be adjusted at different angles, whereas the cadex can't. 🤷‍♂️
Both chassis are nice, however, the cadex does have the more premium feel and fitment to it.
The reason I changed to the cadex was that my tac a1 would rust everytime I took it hunting even though I'd clean it/oil it up. Not a huge issue but it got irritating, wouldn't stop me from buying the gun though in hindsight.
Obligatory pic from this last weekend ➡️
View attachment 7577880
Click to expand...

Was it only the chassis that rusted or the whole gun? I drug mine out yote hunting this weekend. No kills, but sat pretty well in my usual spot. Maybe cerakote the chassis? I guess a cerakote black should look the same as the factor coating right?
 
#236
FarmallA said:
Was it only the chassis that rusted or the whole gun? I drug mine out yote hunting this weekend. No kills, but sat pretty well in my usual spot. Maybe cerakote the chassis? I guess a cerakote black should look the same as the factor coating right?
Click to expand...

Mines on a ocean going boat, does have AC running a decent amount, and gets CLP wiped down, but no rust.
 
#238
FarmallA said:
Was it only the chassis that rusted or the whole gun? I drug mine out yote hunting this weekend. No kills, but sat pretty well in my usual spot. Maybe cerakote the chassis? I guess a cerakote black should look the same as the factor coating right?
Click to expand...
It was the sling points and steel parts on the stock that picked up rust. It was only ever surface rust that would buff off with a scouring pad but i couldn't keep it from coming back after hunting. I did consider cerakoting it but got a good deal on the cadex from another member on here. I also had some issues with the mags when shooting off barricades in matches. Which is too bad cause they feed smoother than my AI mags.
 
#239
Took the Tikka out to play today. Pleasantly surprised, not even a tailored load. Measured from the farthest point grease ring edge to grease ring edge and subtracted .308 for the measurements.

0.764+0.772+0.432+0.502+0.607=0.6154

WLJlMvN.jpg

Best group before subtracting diameter (0.308)
S6b74si.jpg

CeAkloI.jpg


Just to prove I didn't pick and choose:
LEEGdbP.jpg
 
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#241
Took the tac a1 out hunting last night. Took a hard hit that forced the stock to fold without the release. Stock seems ok, no wobble or anything, just seems easy to knock into folded position. Is that normal or did I just completely bork the hinge and need to replace it? Nothing seems bent and no burs or any signs of damage to the surfaces.
 
#245
If anyone is in need of a little bit more height on the cheek rest, check out what I finally got around to making. I drafted up and printed my own based on the Tikka rest, only with about a third of an inch more height so I can get properly aligned behind the scope. Only took me a few years to get around to designing it, haha!
Mr.Mildots said:
I’m in the same boat (I’m a lefty as well, too). I picked up a set of Hoptic saddle blankets (they come in two packs) and stacked them on mine. (https://www.hopticusa.com/product-page/tikka-t3x-tac-a1-saddle-blanket)

Unfortunately they started to peel up almost immediately, so I rubber banded them down for a few days and that appears to have done the trick. I can’t speak to the long term durability as I’m sure a few days out in the heat or cold will probably work them loose eventually, but it’s working for now. Even stacking both, it’s still not quite enough height and yet also pushes my cheek weld outboard a little too much, though. So, I may work on drafting up something I can 3D print and stick on top of the cheek piece that will hold up more permanently. I’ll share here if I can work something out.
Click to expand...
 

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