On his first pic, they appear to be Vortex. Here’s the 34mm version with the optional diving board.
On his AR, looks like a Vortex cantilever version of the same model.
Yup. It's also available in 30mm as well.
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Night Vision Vortex Impact 4000 Rifle/Rail mounted Range finder???
- Thread starter PowPowHawg
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Yup. It's also available in 30mm as well.
For the life of me I cannot get my remote to pair.
GeoB was upgraded when the unit and App paired, then I went though the pairing of the 4000. App shows GeoB and 4000 paired, and the devices (GeoB and 4000) show on the settings within the 4000 (also "Vortex" is showing as connected in Bluetooth on my iPotato).
I followed the instructions and went back to the HUD, then hit the BT icon, then the Impact ellipse, which shows the remote and the plus sign (I'm doing this while the remote is on and blinking yellow). There is no auto pairing of the remote so I hit the + by the remote icon and no devices come up.
I've done this and differing sequences about 87 times now. Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?
We are very sorry you are having this problem. I think I can help though. To connect the remote needs to be blinking red. Reset the remote by holding down the up and down buttons for a couple of seconds on the remote until it flashes red. Then it should connect when you
Unfortunately its a little difficult to tell the orange from the red. Its sutttle ,but there is a difference. Let me know if that works for you.
Defender3,
I'm sorry I was late to the game on this one.
Squibbler,
Thank you for picking up my slack sir!
Now where's the "blinking light off" bootawn !!??
(where were the night shooters - when the specs for this critter were written !1?? )
I suspect turning the display completely off - and using 14 to view the display I'd still be able to see the numbers (gotta try it). But Blue on Black (as per radius and HPR was a better idea - highly visible both day and night).
(where were the night shooters - when the specs for this critter were written !1??
)I suspect turning the display completely off - and using 14 to view the display I'd still be able to see the numbers (gotta try it). But Blue on Black (as per radius and HPR was a better idea - highly visible both day and night).
I'm experimenting with some layers of neutral density filter material that slides over the display to make it not so blinding at night.
I’m warming up to this thing for my application.
Anyone have a pic of it mounted on an Arc Mbrace bridge?
Since on an Mbrace one cannot change the height, I’m curious to see how high it sticks up vs other mounts.
Anyone have a pic of it mounted on an Arc Mbrace bridge?
Since on an Mbrace one cannot change the height, I’m curious to see how high it sticks up vs other mounts.
I do appreciate the help. I pushed all the buttons and in different combinations, just not the up and down together! All is well in the universe and the unit is up and running. I'll final mount it tomorrow when my low diving board for my Spuhr arrives.Defender3,
I'm sorry I was late to the game on this one.
Squibbler,
Thank you for picking up my slack sir!
You definitely aren't doing anything wrong. That feature is currently unavailable and being updated to work with the new protocol that the weather stations are using. It should be back up and running this week.
We are very sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.
Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Best Regards
Scott
Here u go chief
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Whoa! Pure sex lol. That thing looks better in FDE, for sure.
Just ordered a 1.5” one.
Who did the Cerakote?
Too bad the Arc bridge is sold out everywhere. Gonna force people into other mounts.
Now where's the "blinking light off" bootawn !!??
(where were the night shooters - when the specs for this critter were written !1??
I suspect turning the display completely off - and using 14 to view the display I'd still be able to see the numbers (gotta try it). But Blue on Black (as per radius and HPR was a better idea - highly visible both day and night).
Agree on the blue on black ... That works. Being honest, wish they would of also just stuck with remote cable connection and not gone geek squad connection. Would of eliminated the "here I am" beacon, any possible connectivity issues, less battery drain for constant remote connection, and the remote's 2032. My first battery didn't last too long, and it's not even cold out yet. Hoping was just a dud. Another thing I discovered was unable to turn unit on/off via remote. Want to turn unit off to preserve battery or not get blinded from the screen. But then difficult to turn back on quickly cuz it's a damn Bluetooth remote, it needs the signal first, so I need to try and find the power button on the unit. I can't index that on button with gloves, not distinguishable enough from the other 4 buttons. Or maybe it's just my numb fingers. At least I can find the backlight button easy by using bottom edge of unit as index.
Don't want to sound like a negative Nancy because otherwise this thing has been spot on. The ranging ability of it has been jaw dropping especially considering it be a 905. Ballistics have been spot on. Hit every water line and several yotes. Think the best of all is Vortex price point and enough can't be said about their warranty. I'd recommend buying one or several for this alone.
Not a cerakoted ZCo but here’s a comparison to another scope with slightly taller turrets.
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On my AXMC with a NF and in a Spuhr with the low diving board. Also just noticed that there are a couple stray cat hairs on the unit!
Gross. Home is where the dog hair is.
Just a heads up for those of you who shoot at night you might not be able to go that low.... The laser may or may not hit the back of the clip on
On my AXMC with a NF and in a Spuhr with the low diving board. Also just noticed that there are a couple stray cat hairs on the unit!
Which spuhr pn is this brah?
Our daughter left her dog and cat with us. The cat clings to me while the dog prefers HH6.
Good point. I'm just a gear guy who shoots square range out at Quantico. Do want to hit Black Bear some day though.
It's the Spuhr A-0019D Raptar Adapter - Low. I picked it up at Mile High. I also have the A-0029 adapter but it placed the unit higher than I would prefer for my use case. Sorry, don't think I took a picture but there must be some in the thread somewhere.
If anyone has a low mount they want to trade for a high one, hit me up.
Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner!
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yep, my vis laser runs into the back of the PVS27. It sits lower than the other lasers though so it doesnt seem to be causing an issue with the ranging laser with the 27 mounted. I was all excited to just use the NV to zero the damn thing but it needs to be a cunt hair higher. If i was running a super low mount like some of these guys are discussing im pretty sure the ranging laser would be crashing into the back of it as well.
If anyone wants a sort of pictorial part-number Spuhr diving board thing, check this thread:
www.snipershide.com
Impact 4000 & Nightforce
Anyone running the new Vortex Impact along with a NX8 2.5-20? Wondering how it’ll look on a diving board since the tube is rather short.
www.snipershide.com
Theoretical question upcoming.
I only have 30-35yds available in my backyard here in suburbia. Given that light travels in a straight line, and the elliptical pattern of the visible laser probably increases in size over distance, do you really need 50-100yds to accurately sight the unit? Yes, I'm bored at home today.
I only have 30-35yds available in my backyard here in suburbia. Given that light travels in a straight line, and the elliptical pattern of the visible laser probably increases in size over distance, do you really need 50-100yds to accurately sight the unit? Yes, I'm bored at home today.
Nope, you can do the math and figure out the height it needs to be for any distance.
The measurements are exactly the same, there is no additional math involved. You just need to be more precise at closer ranges. If you're off 1/4" in your aiming or measurments at 25 yds, that error will multiply at farther ranges.
When i said math i meant to figure it out in mils as that what i was doing myself. Wall across the street is 31 yards. How many mils do i need to zero the laser above center for any given yardage to maintain parallel zero.
Error goes up the closer you try to do this... but I'll play
What are you calling the difference between your scope center and the laser?
What are you calling the difference between your scope center and the laser?
Gotcha. Ya, if you're zeroing it on your scope retivle you'll need to figure the range and mils out.
But if you're following the instructions with the unit and you measure it at 3.6" above your scope, that's 3.6" at 25yds or 500yds.
Either way works.
Of course. I zeroed my unit under NV initially using a converging zero at like 3000yds. Then was playing around with different ways to check zero without NV at yardages I could actually see the laser during day time without lame reflective tape then using some math to figure out if it was all tracking. Thankfully it was and i checked as close as 10yds but that laser is kinda a funky shape and the further out you can zero it the better your chances of getting it right are gonna be. I wanna say my height was 2.7" but I'd need to look in my notes to confirm.
Damn. I will probably hold off for now if that is the case.
@Scott_at_Vortex is there any future possibility of giving the screen some lower intensity settings to facilitate low/no light use? A big, bright screen is not conducive to use in the dark. Ranging with a clip-on NV or thermal was a big driver behind the Radius suddenly becoming mega sought after over the last sixish years. Seriously though, BIG thanks to you guys for bringing this otherwise amazing device to market that many of us have been asking for!
To me setting laser for zero at 3k is going to work fine as all my ranging to 6k yards is basically going to be within the same 2.7" of fudge factor
Now you want to calculate closer... for a parallel offset?...
31 yards
Let's work in inches since that's the unit you gave offset in. Forgive me but this is how my brain works (or doesn't)
31yrds = 1,116 inches
1 mil = 1/1000 of anything
So 1,116/1000 = 1.116"
1mrad is 1.116" @ 31 yards
So now take that 2.7" offset and divide it by the 1.116" and it'll come out to 2.4193548387
So to have a parallel offset you are looking for 2.42 mrad at 31 yards
Somebody check behind me cuz it'll be funny if I fucked that up trying to help someone else
I have my notes written at home but yes it was something exactly like that. My thought is even though I can zero it at night with the NV, I've been to a few matches that they have a sight in period where they place paper targets for you and you don't get a chance to confirm zero on the impact by use of reflectors etc. Being able to know where I need to zero it to my reticle at any given distance at least gets me really close.
If your measurements are 2.7" just make a little cheat sheet like this to put with your unit. then you can just compare at whatever distance you are using at the time. and forget the math
1 75
2 37.5
3 25
4 18.75
5 15
6 12.5
7 10.71428571
8 9.375
9 8.333333333
10 7.5
11 6.818181818
12 6.25
13 5.769230769
14 5.357142857
15 5
16 4.6875
17 4.411764706
18 4.166666667
19 3.947368421
20 3.75
21 3.571428571
22 3.409090909
23 3.260869565
24 3.125
25 3
26 2.884615385
27 2.777777778
28 2.678571429
29 2.586206897
30 2.5
31 2.419354839
32 2.34375
33 2.272727273
34 2.205882353
35 2.142857143
36 2.083333333
37 2.027027027
38 1.973684211
39 1.923076923
40 1.875
41 1.829268293
42 1.785714286
43 1.744186047
44 1.704545455
45 1.666666667
46 1.630434783
47 1.595744681
48 1.5625
49 1.530612245
50 1.5
51 1.470588235
52 1.442307692
53 1.41509434
54 1.388888889
55 1.363636364
56 1.339285714
57 1.315789474
58 1.293103448
59 1.271186441
60 1.25
61 1.229508197
62 1.209677419
63 1.19047619
64 1.171875
65 1.153846154
66 1.136363636
67 1.119402985
68 1.102941176
69 1.086956522
70 1.071428571
71 1.056338028
72 1.041666667
73 1.02739726
74 1.013513514
75 1
76 0.986842105
77 0.974025974
78 0.961538462
79 0.949367089
80 0.9375
81 0.925925926
82 0.914634146
83 0.903614458
84 0.892857143
85 0.882352941
86 0.872093023
87 0.862068966
88 0.852272727
89 0.842696629
90 0.833333333
91 0.824175824
92 0.815217391
93 0.806451613
94 0.79787234
95 0.789473684
96 0.78125
97 0.773195876
98 0.765306122
99 0.757575758
100 0.75
1 75
2 37.5
3 25
4 18.75
5 15
6 12.5
7 10.71428571
8 9.375
9 8.333333333
10 7.5
11 6.818181818
12 6.25
13 5.769230769
14 5.357142857
15 5
16 4.6875
17 4.411764706
18 4.166666667
19 3.947368421
20 3.75
21 3.571428571
22 3.409090909
23 3.260869565
24 3.125
25 3
26 2.884615385
27 2.777777778
28 2.678571429
29 2.586206897
30 2.5
31 2.419354839
32 2.34375
33 2.272727273
34 2.205882353
35 2.142857143
36 2.083333333
37 2.027027027
38 1.973684211
39 1.923076923
40 1.875
41 1.829268293
42 1.785714286
43 1.744186047
44 1.704545455
45 1.666666667
46 1.630434783
47 1.595744681
48 1.5625
49 1.530612245
50 1.5
51 1.470588235
52 1.442307692
53 1.41509434
54 1.388888889
55 1.363636364
56 1.339285714
57 1.315789474
58 1.293103448
59 1.271186441
60 1.25
61 1.229508197
62 1.209677419
63 1.19047619
64 1.171875
65 1.153846154
66 1.136363636
67 1.119402985
68 1.102941176
69 1.086956522
70 1.071428571
71 1.056338028
72 1.041666667
73 1.02739726
74 1.013513514
75 1
76 0.986842105
77 0.974025974
78 0.961538462
79 0.949367089
80 0.9375
81 0.925925926
82 0.914634146
83 0.903614458
84 0.892857143
85 0.882352941
86 0.872093023
87 0.862068966
88 0.852272727
89 0.842696629
90 0.833333333
91 0.824175824
92 0.815217391
93 0.806451613
94 0.79787234
95 0.789473684
96 0.78125
97 0.773195876
98 0.765306122
99 0.757575758
100 0.75
Yep thats a great idea!! I will just print a cheat sheet and put it in my notes for quick reference. Thanks
I think someone mentioned it, but the backlight is optional. With the back light off we have been using a red head lamp or BNVD's.
Below is a pic of the display with the backlight on lowest setting in a blacked out/dark room for reference.
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Thank you, I did not realize that was an option.
Thanks for the response, that does not look excessively bright in that pic.
I'm curious to hear the opinions of others as far as their impressions when using in the dark. Applying tint sticker to it like the poster above mentioned would indeed seem to be a cheap and likely effective solution as well.
It's not so bright that it's unusable, it just lights the rifle and your face up pretty well. The screen is still easily readable in the dark though.
Took the AI to the shotgun range, slapped up the reflective target with the offset, went back 100yds and walked the visible laser right in.
