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I dont own one yet, but with the laser you could check zero and rezero pretty quickly. I know i did with my radius. I just check it in my yard or neighborhood at a known value before heading out.I was wondering if anyone had considered using a more accurate return to zero mount for these? Since this won't fit in my MRAD case it will have to be removed everytime I place the rifle in the case. One video I watched said the zero was off maybe 0.3-0.4 MOA horizontally with remounting. I was thinking of using using a QD style mount from ADM (like AD 170 VPG LOW). Or is it a non issue?
I have run into the same cold weather issues. Sounds like Vortex is aware and it's based on the design of the screen materials. I hope they figure out a software fix. It may help to turn the backlight off. More testing needed on my end.Chiming in here after using my impact 4k now for a handful of night hunts in cold weather as well as night use at the range.
First off I love it over the radius. No question it's better than the radius in every way except maybe range button location/power button.
Ranging capability is nuts. 3600+yds in daylight. Zeroing using NV is all I've done but it takes minutes to do at the most. Didn't even use the daylight laser last time. Just double tap it to scan, check through the scope using a pvs30 for where the "/" slanted laser is impacting in the optic and coalign it to something a long ways away. Couldn't be easier.
Ballistics are within .1 mils of my AB app on the phone out beyond 1200yds and that could simply be due to the onboard atmospherics vs my kestrel and AB on the phone.
Now for the annoyances....
Location of the power button without using the remote is an absolute nightmare if using the unit farther up on an ar15 rail. Especially when gloved. The amount of times I missed an opportunity on a coyote trying to find the power button and ranging it were unreal. The smallest most non-discernable location for the most important button on the unit? Stupid. I don't want to need a damn remote and never even considered one with the radius. That button was easy.
The screen brightness on the dimmest setting is nuts. If you've been out on a moonless night and used this unit you might as well have powered up an x300 turbo in your face. Coyotes will undoubtedly notice you glowing like the sun when you try to get a range. Not cool. I have solved this issue by adding a thing piece of neutral density filter. A drop of water on the screen, a cut to fit piece of filter and a q-tip to press it on and squeeze the water out like doing window tint. So far it's held up to 11 degrees Fahrenheit and I did two 3% layers. I will be swapping to a single 6% or 9% piece in the near future. So far. That problem is solved fairly easily.
The moon glinting off the huge glass front end is real. Setting the caller and walking back the other night was pretty obvious something looked off due to the lens. Mkm ARD on order.
The battery life at low temps (sub 30 degrees) is poor. I chewed through 3 cr123a in a single night (same 11 degree night) not necessarily because the unit was dead yet. But because it ate 75% of the power and I didn't want to risk a dead unit on a stand. Warm the batteries back up and they're about 50% alive yet but kind of useless for the winter hunting use... 4$ a piece. Ouch.
The cold also made the screen go blank yet back-lit for about 1-2 seconds before displaying a readout. Scan mode basically kept the unit non-display and back-lit but no read out due to the continual pulse of the ranger and obviously this nuked battery life quick.
As a whole I enjoy the unit and it has helped me take shots faster and more confident on steel in the dark than the radius ever could. The readout for ballistics is near instantaneous when it's warmer out. The ballistics are plenty close enough to anything I could ever expect from anything other than my phone and AB. I will be adding a small rubber bump stop to the ranging/power button to see if that helps with identifying the button with gloves. Hopefully it doesn't tear off right away.
More to come![]()
I design electronics for a living. There is no software fix for this.I have run into the same cold weather issues. Sounds like Vortex is aware and it's based on the design of the screen materials. I hope they figure out a software fix. It may help to turn the backlight off. More testing needed on my end.
There is a company that makes screen warmers because LCD screens do not do well in cold temps. However, it is something that needs to be integrated into the unit when it is designed.I design electronics for a living. There is no software fix for this.
I think the thing that annoys me about all of this is that the Razor 4000 GB is less than half the cost and probably has almost entirely the same internals. Same solver, laser engine, etc.There is a company that makes screen warmers because LCD screens do not do well in cold temps. However, it is something that needs to be integrated into the unit when it is designed.
I was in Wyoming last week and when it got down to 7 degrees, the display slowed down noticeably. Still worked though.
ILya
It is not made in the same place as Razor 4000GB and shares no hardware with it.I think the thing that annoys me about all of this is that the Razor 4000 GB is less than half the cost and probably has almost entirely the same internals. Same solver, laser engine, etc.
This unit is $1200 more and is the only unit marketed that does anything like this. The $800 Silencerco radius had no such issue.
And it’s made in Asia. It’s not like a US display was sourced.
High resolution displays that would have catapulted this product to another dimension functionality would have been very worth it.
View attachment 8290599
Almost all of the complaints I've seen revolve around hunting at night or in the cold. Or both. It makes me wonder if we were the targeted consumer and what portion of sales we make up. Regardless, a few minor changes would have increased its versatility.I think the thing that annoys me about all of this is that the Razor 4000 GB is less than half the cost and probably has almost entirely the same internals. Same solver, laser engine, etc.
This unit is $1200 more and is the only unit marketed that does anything like this. The $800 Silencerco radius had no such issue.
And it’s made in Asia. It’s not like a US display was sourced.
High resolution displays that would have catapulted this product to another dimension functionality would have been very worth it.
View attachment 8290599
Here's to hoping Vortex makes some changes and offers a 1550nm version and some other premium features! Of course there will be a cost to that
Almost all of the complaints I've seen revolve around hunting at night or in the cold. Or both. It makes me wonder if we were the targeted consumer and what portion of sales we make up. Regardless, a few minor changes would have increased its versatility.
If we were a targeted consumer, whoever did the field testing dropped the ball.
Regardless, I still like the unit.
I afraid when you say a few weeks, you're using the same week that Daniel used to talk about the end times... meaning a long timeIsn't this the 1550nm version with other premium features !!??![]()
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Of course it will probably be a few weeks before we get any !!
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Totally agree, the current VO isn't perfect, but it real close to what every body has been hollering for - for the last 5 years !
( a radius with AB )
And for $2k.
I want one of each! Or 2 of the 900nm and one 1550nmFunny how everyone’s been clamoring for “a de-tuned Raptar with a 900nm laser for $2k or less” for like a decade and when one finally comes around, people are like “yeahhhh, it’s ok, but it would’ve been better with a 1550nm laser…”![]()
Bingo.My only two changes would be a fire button somewhere other than the middle if a flat, feeling less keypad and a display that worked when cold.
Compared to some other products Im delighted to be left with these two complaints.
That's not very cold.
Which rangefinder works best at absolute zero? Lets find out!Unless he meant 30 Kelvin, in which case it wouldn't be just the vortex having a bad time.
Which rangefinder works best at absolute zero? Lets find out!
I left out a huge portion of my question, but given what I wrote thats an excellent point. Those big lugs and requiring a special tool to mount to diving board mounted to a very precisely mounted scope mount makes me nervous. Seems like attaching it to a QD mount would make it much less tedious. Ive got an ATACR 5-25 on my MRAD so I was thinking I could do the low diving board and then the QD could make up the distance to get the screen clear of the elevation turret? Or is there a reason this wouldn't work?I dont own one yet, but with the laser you could check zero and rezero pretty quickly. I know i did with my radius. I just check it in my yard or neighborhood at a known value before heading out.
I left out a huge portion of my question, but given what I wrote thats an excellent point. Those big lugs and requiring a special tool to mount to diving board mounted to a very precisely mounted scope mount makes me nervous. Seems like attaching it to a QD mount would make it much less tedious. Ive got an ATACR 5-25 on my MRAD so I was thinking I could do the low diving board and then the QD could make up the distance to get the screen clear of the elevation turret? Or is there a reason this wouldn't work?
I was going to try the Spuhr A 0019D with the ADM QD.
What’s your shipping infoIf someone has one they can loan me for a few weeks, I can make an external power adapter for a USB battery. Free one for the person loaning out the device.
Super interested to see the COTI battery adapters, not to derail the threadShip it to me here at Gunsite with my name on it.
Cory Trapp
c/o Gunsite Academy, Inc.
2900 West Gunsite Road
Paulden, AZ 86334
My thought is to use a 90 degree Lemo connector to the battery compartment, as I have them on hand for the new COTI adapters. Reasonably weather proof and fits a CR123 footprint, plus locking in place. What cable length would work best?
Be out the door tomorrow.Ship it to me here at Gunsite with my name on it.
Cory Trapp
c/o Gunsite Academy, Inc.
2900 West Gunsite Road
Paulden, AZ 86334
My thought is to use a 90 degree Lemo connector to the battery compartment, as I have them on hand for the new COTI adapters. Reasonably weather proof and fits a CR123 footprint, plus locking in place. What cable length would work best?
Roger that. I don't think it will take too long to work out. I had one here for a bit looking at the lens cover/ard, but Tyler at MK has that already covered, and we did not give all that much thought to the power issue.Be out the door tomorrow.
I have one of those, it should have come with the USB cable, so a two port battery would cover you. If I can ID the Fischer connector model, I could make a Y cable for it. I've considered making a Y already that would connect both the power and remote control cable, so one more reason to work on it.@CoryT
I’d be jumping for joy you if you can do one that will also power the EOTECH ELR Thermal. I have the first gen, not the newer MK2 or what ever it is designated. LMK if you can , and Thanks!
What part number is that spacer?The low mount will not work with a 3.6-18. You need a spacer to clear the objective. Should be able to zoom in and see that in this pic.
Once i get one, i may have to pick one of those up from you. Since i am local and all.Ship it to me here at Gunsite with my name on it.
Cory Trapp
c/o Gunsite Academy, Inc.
2900 West Gunsite Road
Paulden, AZ 86334
My thought is to use a 90 degree Lemo connector to the battery compartment, as I have them on hand for the new COTI adapters. Reasonably weather proof and fits a CR123 footprint, plus locking in place. What cable length would work best?
Link?@Rinky I picked up some 9% off of Amazon. I hope that it arrives today. Thanks for saving me the leg work on the lesser tints!
I got lost on what we’re trying to accomplish here. Run the ELR off an external battery? Where would you put the battery? Would you wear it? And what would the advantage of that be? Are you trying to save weight by removing the 4 lithium batteries?I have one of those, it should have come with the USB cable, so a two port battery would cover you. If I can ID the Fischer connector model, I could make a Y cable for it. I've considered making a Y already that would connect both the power and remote control cable, so one more reason to work on it.