What Barloc type to go with Archimedes or Nucleus

[goinghunting]

Ok so I'm gonna get an Archimedes and maybe even Nucleus or Mausingfield ordered.

Planning to run Barloc on each.

With the different configurations available
https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/barloc-10?category=1.
Is there a route that is more desirable (TPI, shouldered vs not, etc) for a guy who wants to be able to swap barrels on his own at home going forward? Due to pre-fit barrels available and such.

Or should I look at a different method all together.

Living in the Frozen Tundra of NW Minnesota and super busy doesn't lend itself to getting my hands on the different systems, so looking for insight from you folks with the knowledge!

Thanks!

Shaun

 

[BLKWLFK9]

The barloc for the nuke also works for the Archimedes

 

[goinghunting]

But what type do you guys like? Set up for shouldered barrel or with the threaded nut?

The shouldered I feel has a little cleaner look, but the threaded with but type must have more pre-fit available? Or am I making it more complicated than it needs to be...

 

[BLKWLFK9]

Just your preference. I have both (not for a barloc). it is strictly an aesthetic difference.

 

[chrismartin]

I went with the non-shouldered version to open up the barrel possibilities a bit (that is to say off the shelf, not custom ordered barrels. I re-used a non-shouldered savage barrel that I had laying around for example)
Other than that, a non-shouldered setup would take a little more time in dealing with go/no-go. I would still check (and do check) shouldered barrels with go/no-go gauges, but they are usually faster to setup than non-shouldered. That said, "faster" is not really a huge amount of time, like 2-5 minutes.
So, as mentioned above, it's just preference really.

 

[NEC0170]

I plan to swap barrels and went with a shouldered configuration. I think the barrel nut version would require removing the barreled action from my chassis or the optics to properly secure the nut. Can anyone with the barrel nut version confirm?

 

[Ledzep]

But what type do you guys like? Set up for shouldered barrel or with the threaded nut?

The shouldered I feel has a little cleaner look, but the threaded with but type must have more pre-fit available? Or am I making it more complicated than it needs to be...

Yes, the nut style can use any Savage small shank prefit, which has more availability. I only know of a couple of guys that are making the shouldered prefits, and they come with a few weeks wait time. Savage prefits are off the shelf from lots of vendors.

I plan to swap barrels and went with a shouldered configuration. I think the barrel nut version would require removing the barreled action from my chassis or the optics to properly secure the nut. Can anyone with the barrel nut version confirm?

According to ARC's method of tightening the barrel nut until the barloc collar splits wide enough to fit the wrench between the gap, yes. You'd probably have to remove the action. That being said, I have just snugged the nut up into the barloc by hand, then tightened the barloc down and have not had any problems. Can't unscrew it by hand as hard as I try. So I'd imagine that you could probably remove it with everything in the stock/optics still mounted and be fine.

 

[Hattrick]

What's the difference between the Switch lug buy west Texas and Barloc? From my research it seems the barloc you have to check your head space and with switch lug system you don't? Switch lug seems to have a good number of smiths cutting barrels for there system too. Correct me if I'm wrong

 

[MarkLeupold]

What's the difference between the Switch lug buy west Texas and Barloc? From my research it seems the barloc you have to check your head space and with switch lug system you don't? Switch lug seems to have a good number of smiths cutting barrels for there system too. Correct me if I'm wrong

Switchlug just clamps the barrel. It's pinned to the action, you screw your barrel in hand tight and then tighten the cross bolt. No load on the threads. Barloc you set headspace, tighten the nut (if you're using that version), and when you tighten the cross bolt, it tries to push the barrel and action apart, loading the threads.

 

[bravesirrobin]

I honestly don't like the idea of a Barloc to be used with shouldered barrels considering how much variation can occur during installation. The nut version on the other hand can always be adjusted to get the correct headspace.

 

[Ledzep]

I honestly don't like the idea of a Barloc to be used with shouldered barrels considering how much variation can occur during installation. The nut version on the other hand can always be adjusted to get the correct headspace.

The Barloc can expand as much as .010-.015". I install my shouldered barrels the same way I would a nut variant. Screw it down on a headspace gauge (I used a sized case because I run nothing but reloads) then tighten the barloc. I also use a punch set and mark indexes on my barrels where they line up with the show-line of the stock so that even if I don't have (for whatever reason) a case or gauge, it goes to the same place.

 

[aBetterTomorrow]

you can order the barrel nut version with 'Recoil Lug with Scope Rail Tab' (for the three actions you mentioned) and add one Conical washer for $15.00 and you have both options

 

[Hattrick]

Markleupold thanks for clearing that up. I'll be going with the switch lug system in my next build

 

[D2junky]

I went with barrel nut version. For me..it doesn’t make swapping barrels any easier or faster. You may also have to open up stock inletting for the Barloc.
I mainly used it to get me going while I waited for the action wrench to be released for the Nucleus.

 

[FromMyColdDeadHand]

I went with barrel nut version. For me..it doesn’t make swapping barrels any easier or faster. You may also have to open up stock inletting for the Barloc.
I mainly used it to get me going while I waited for the action wrench to be released for the Nucleus.

Is there a list of chassis that need to be inletted for the the barloc, nut or shoulder version?

It's not really a gun smithing project till I pull out the Dremel tool......