If you're looking at 22kv generators, why not look at off grid solar? Set up with enough batteries, and you can go 2-3 days without sunshine, much less power from your power company. You also get a 26% tax credit from Uncle Sam in 2020.
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If you're looking at 22kv generators, why not look at off grid solar? Set up with enough batteries, and you can go 2-3 days without sunshine, much less power from your power company. You also get a 26% tax credit from Uncle Sam in 2020.
I think that'd be an excellent compliment to a standby generator, but at least here in the upper Midwest, I don't think it's a viable standalone option for wintertime outages. Those in areas with more daylight and/or shorter outages might feel differently, and obviously solar brings day-to-day advantages that generators don't.
Eventually, lithium-ion batteries get cheap enough that it'll be possible to stuff a figurative (and maybe literal) ton of them into an enclosure, and keep them topped off with a combination of a small genset and solar array. Those on NG may also eventually be able to use a fuel cell for this purpose, but I don't feel good about that becoming an affordable alternative before the end of the decade.
OK.... talked to our generator maintenance guy. He said that TODAY, the best generator is Kohler. He also said they're not cheap. He also repeated his disdain for Generac.
My observations, and also from talking to my customers..... rock solid in a backup/standby use situation? Yes.My sister worked for Kohler , generator division. According to the maintenance people, they were rock solid.
My observations, and also from talking to my customers..... rock solid in a backup/standby use situation? Yes.
Which is exactly what OP of this thread is looking for. Less than 90 hours a year and you should be good to go for quite a long time.
For those people reading this thread who might need a genset for more than standby.....do not buy one for prime power and expect it to give you thousands of hours of trouble free use. For that you will need a genset for industrial or mobile use.
So educate me on the NG/LPG switch. Running a 15KW Generac since '04 and had to change out the components from NG to Propane. Not seeing how one could readily go back and forth. Thanks!
Gas/propane/natural gas motors are high RPM motors.
They will be loud and the motors don't last as long. Propane and natural gas have to be bought and transported by someone other than yourself. In day to day normal operations having someone deliver your fuel is nice but in a disaster delivery may be delayed or impossible.
Copy; misunderstood earlier comments to be referring to an actual 'switch' (noun) vs switch (v). Mine was not something I'd want to convert back and forth. Same with all the appliances, water heaters, and HVACS. Thanks!The change is an orifice sizing difference. NG uses less fuel than LPG. If your system is friendly to changing out the is orifice plate, then you can easily go back and forth between the 2.
So educate me on the NG/LPG switch. Running a 15KW Generac since '04 and had to change out the components from NG to Propane. Not seeing how one could readily go back and forth. Thanks!
Shazzaaam!! Gotta whole box brimming full of NG orifices. THAT'S what I can embrace as a 'new normal'!The newer ones have a simple lever on the carb - just press and rotate 180 degrees. It takes longer to unlock and lift the hood than it does to change from one fuel type to another.
The sound attenuated enclosure of modern stuff really knocked the sound way down.I ran a series of USMC 60KW trailer gen sets in the mid 1960's. They were loud, thirsty, and generally indestructible.
The NVA would probe with Arty, trying to knock out the gen set, which they assumed meant they were dropping them into the HQ area.
We'd let them go wide, then shut it down. They'd drop 'em for effect on basically nothing.
Those 60's were THAT loud.
Shazzaaam!! Gotta whole box brimming full of NG orifices. THAT'S what I can embrace as a 'new normal'!
Yep, most of the good stuff is 65dbA @ 3 feet, the better stuff is 45dba @ 3 foot. Some of the stuff used for filming is as low as 25dbA @ 1 foot,...that stuff is not cheap,...The sound attenuated enclosure of modern stuff really knocked the sound way down.
Nice idea, by the way. Thx.If you're looking at 22kv generators, why not look at off grid solar? Set up with enough batteries, and you can go 2-3 days without sunshine, much less power from your power company. You also get a 26% tax credit from Uncle Sam in 2020.
New here, looking for help.
I have a older Onan 15kw propane generator. It's been sitting in my barn since I moved in over 7yrs ago. Never had to use it so was going to try and sell it but the box where you start it from.....I opened it up and mice have completely destroyed all the internal electrical components. does anyone know where I can find a new box, or new internals so I can rebuild it?
Thanks.
2 phase?That's a 3 phase generator. You would have to rebuild it to 2 phase for it to work with you house service.
Now shush or you will ruin the surprise2 phase?
Single phase is 2 -120v legs
3 phase is 2-120v and one wild to hit 480v
The first will shock you the second will kill you.
Not even close...but makes for a good laugh!Single phase is 2 -120v legs
3 phase is 2-120v and one wild to hit 480v
The first will shock you the second will kill you.
Actually; he is correct. This is not common anymore but was at one point. It is a Delta connection where the center point of one leg is grounded so you end up with a neutral and a leg of voltage higher then the other 2. I have run into this a few times as an electrician both times was in old industrial areas. This is typically the "B" phase. This is known as the wild leg.Not even close...but makes for a good laugh!
You’ll find that on old used equipment.Actually; he is correct. This is not common anymore but was at one point. It is a Delta connection where the center point of one leg is grounded so you end up with a neutral and a leg of voltage higher then the other 2. I have run into this a few times as an electrician both times was in old industrial areas. This is typically the "B" phase. This is known as the wild leg.
May not be cost effective to do so. Although, Onan is one of the higher quality brands out there. See if you can find an Onan authorized repair center or an electric motor repair shop and see what they have to say. If it’s too expensive to fix, part it out for what you can get for it and use that money to fund a new one.New here, looking for help.
I have a older Onan 15kw propane generator. It's been sitting in my barn since I moved in over 7yrs ago. Never had to use it so was going to try and sell it but the box where you start it from.....I opened it up and mice have completely destroyed all the internal electrical components. does anyone know where I can find a new box, or new internals so I can rebuild it?
Thanks.
What you are describing is going a long way in the direction of what is called "bumpless transfer". They are usually quite good systems, but come at a very high, premium cost. The newer systems are essentially "always on", full power UPS systems. The AC power to your house/building comes from a DC to AC inverter and it's power is derived from either a utility powered AC to DC converter, or if the power goes out, a DC battery bank. The battery bank is usually charged from the incoming AC/utility line via a charger, or in some cases, auxiliary wind or solar. The other thing to consider is that of maintenance/repair. The more elaborate the system, the more intelligent/better trained/expensive the technician must be. If you're in the city/suburbs, a good tech is probably easier to find. If you're in the country.......well, that could be a challenge.We run a briggs 20kw propane unit, with 2,000 gallons of propane to run it. (I never let it go below 1000 gallons)
45 seconds of no power, and auto transfer switch fires it up and kicks us over to it. I'm presently looking for a whole-home battery backup to bridge that 45 second gap, if anyone has any ideas. Power is dirty here, so I'd like a power conditioning battery backup that can handle cleaning the power when we are on grid, and handle the switch over when we aren't.
Great reply, Thank you.What you are describing is going a long way in the direction of what is called "bumpless transfer". They are usually quite good systems, but come at a very high, premium cost. The newer systems are essentially "always on", full power UPS systems. The AC power to your house/building comes from a DC to AC inverter and it's power is derived from either a utility powered AC to DC converter, or if the power goes out, a DC battery bank. The battery bank is usually charged from the incoming AC/utility line via a charger, or in some cases, auxiliary wind or solar. The other thing to consider is that of maintenance/repair. The more elaborate the system, the more intelligent/better trained/expensive the technician must be. If you're in the city/suburbs, a good tech is probably easier to find. If you're in the country.......well, that could be a challenge.
Honestly, what you have now is a pretty good price/performance trade off. Eliminating that 45 second delay is do-able, but it'll be spendy. I have a 5 or 10 minute delay, because I have to go out to the garage, isolate from the grid (turn off the main breaker in the panel), make the electrical connections, start/warm up the generator and manually do the transfer. It works fine for my/our needs. We get winter storms here in the NW and power can be out for as little as 4 hours, to sometimes (fairly rare) over a week. The less often that you lose utility power or the longer a single outage lasts, the lower the value of bumpless transfer, at least in my opinion.
I haven't looked in a while, but you may want to check into "Outback Power". They were starting to broaden their portfolio to include the above products.
In a 240 box. Reading between any of the three will get 240 volts. Reading between the legs and ground one will read 240 and the other two will read 120. This configuration really helps 3 phase motors.Actually; he is correct. This is not common anymore but was at one point. It is a Delta connection where the center point of one leg is grounded so you end up with a neutral and a leg of voltage higher then the other 2. I have run into this a few times as an electrician both times was in old industrial areas. This is typically the "B" phase. This is known as the wild leg.
So, youre also of the mindset that you have two 120 volt legs and some "wild" leg that gets you to 480volts, three phase?Actually; he is correct. This is not common anymore but was at one point. It is a Delta connection where the center point of one leg is grounded so you end up with a neutral and a leg of voltage higher then the other 2. I have run into this a few times as an electrician both times was in old industrial areas. This is typically the "B" phase. This is known as the wild leg.
Interesting, I have been in the electrical trade since 1989 and never heard of a "W" configuration. Not saying it does not exist it just may not be that common. I know the diagrams for Y and Delta systems. Can you draw out the W for me?"Y" & "W" configuration of three phase power.
The W configuration is still used around here. Way back in the early 80's I was told, in an electrical school, that it would be rarely seen.
In a 240 box. Reading between any of the three will get 240 volts. Reading between the legs and ground one will read 240 and the other two will read 120. This configuration really helps 3 phase motors.
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