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GRT 6GT help

Def appreciate everyone's replies and input. I actually have both and found a great node for both of them, but I wanted to land on one as an easy button so I don't need to think too much about it. Was hoping from an actual model that that would be informative and remove my own bias.

The node for the 150 is def lower MV, which was what I was after, so I'm thinking I'll stick with it. I'm almost at the end of life with my current barrel and have two more tee'd up, so I plan on running 6GT for a while, thus the purpose of the question around these powders. I very much hope VV won't be unobtainium! It performs awesome, low SD's and is considerably better price than Varget.

That better price than Varget or H4350 (or anything else Hodgdon/IMR) is what is going to drive the N100 series into that unobtainable status.

I've switched from H4350 to N160 in my .260 Rem, and will probably do it again in other similar cartridges. It definitely requires a full case, and velocities are a tad lower that H4831...but for a target rifle and the fact that it is $90 cheaper/keg makes it my powder of choice. Velocity spreads with all N100 powders have been awesome for me.

Although, I did find a keg of H4350 and another keg of Varget recently that I forgot I had.
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SAKO SELECT PROGRAM

Id like to introduce you all to the Sako Select program. This is a unique opportunity for Sako fanatics and shooters to special order legacy Sako rifles and configurations that are no longer part of the regular production line. Some included models, but not limited to are as follows:

TRG 22/42 9 (black or green)
Model 90 (grizzly, finnlight, ultra, ect)
S20

Right now is the perfect time to pick up the Sako or Tikka you've always wanted. If you have any questions regarding this or would like more information on a rifle of interest, message me and I would be happy to assist!

Connor S.

Shop Sako blow:

Will this exact rifle but in 6.5 creed be available by chance?

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Trigger warning to the Howa boys - Do I pretty up this pig, or dump ‘er?

For me, this has to be a mechanics and a muzzle brake problem. I had that exact same rifle (in 6.5cm) with the same scope. On my atlas cal bipod with the feet forward, an M4-72 muzzle brake, and a Protektor leather rear bag, the gun was super steady and shot amazing. Would group a half inch all day with the 140 hornady factory match, much less my hand loads. Wasn't that jumpy either. Now, that brake has been surpassed by another company (not to mention the expensive botnia)
I think a lot of this has to do with the combination of the rear bag, the rearward pressure your firing hand is pulling on the pistol grip, how tightly you're squeezing the grip, and how much of your head weight you're resting on your comb.
What caliber is this rifle?

I have another howa I'm using for an XM3 clone and it shoots fantastic. I've also never talked to a smith that wouldnt rebarrel one of my howas either.

New Berger 375 bullet 410 hybrid

my COAL is 4.340" and that has the shank/boat tail junction just at the neck/shoulder junction, by chance alone. and the Ogive is 0.025" from the lands. I have a carbide reamer, the exact one that DT uses which was designed around the CEB 352s, so that's why my throat is shorter that those with chambers designed around 450s or something like that.

I also shot some loaded 4.290 or 50 thou deeper, but only at range. My general intuition was that the velocity was not as consistent, so I'm going back to 4.340 or 0.025" off

Gunsmithing First custom barrel - what chemicals to clean it?

If it’s carbon you’re seeing at the chamber neck edge, I’ve had great success soaking a patch with CLR, putting it over the end of a brush sized for the caliber, and wedging it into the lands. Wait 10-15 minutes, spin the brush in the lands, then pull it back. Clean out the bore and chamber with patches / chamber mop soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol, then dry patches.

But! That was before I started using Chad Heckler’s cleaning method: soak an oversized bronze brush (e.g., 7mm brush for a 6.5 bore) with Patch-Out plus Accelerator, 20 strokes end to end. Let it sit, hours to overnight, then patch it out. Repeat once more, only 10 strokes or so this time, then verify that the chamber and lands are clean (they have been every time). That’s it. It’s super easy, and I don’t have to spend more than a few rounds fouling. Of course you gotta clean out the action and the muzzle periodically; for me the action is before and after every match, and the muzzle is whenever I feel like it. Every 500 rds probably.

Btw OP, I recently ruined a $1300 barrel with Iosso abrasive paste. It’s clear that people use abrasives with success, but they absolutely can wreck a barrel, as Frank Green has made clear. This mistake is why I switched methods. Good luck!

I am curious on more info on how you wrecked the barrel with Iosso?

What was your cleaning method?

How many rounds on the barrel?

How many cleanings?

Define ruined.

Honest questions, not trying to start a battle just curious since I have seen a bunch of people talk hypothetically but haven’t run into someone with true experience so trying to learn.
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Ares ETR UHD 3-18x50 or comparable scopes?

Here’s another solid option and there’s a 15% off coupon floating around right now ( COLDBORE15 ) and they don’t charge tax and shipping is reasonable. Direct from US Optics. I’ve not mounted mine and tested yet but preliminary opinion is positive.


Review: https://coldboremiracle.com/2024/07/08/us-optics-txh-3-18x50-riflescope/
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New CHAD clone from Preece.

If you want to have a riot. Build a suppressed sportsman gun.

I have a foundation ezikiel on order. I shot a few buddies and it was so much fun and relaxing to just shoot and not stress about points too much.

You mean go back to what we were shooting in the sport 8 years ago? lol