JBoomhauer said:

To you machinists/engineers.. What is the difference between a torque spec for a standard 5/8-11 fastener and one for a Cat 40 retention knob / pull stud? What happenes when you exceed the retention knob torque value?

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Skip1943 said:

I'm not sure what you're asking with this.

It's really difficult to know what happens with such a vague context. What happens is completely dependent upon what the torque value is based on. If it's based on yield strength, it will fail. If it's based on 10% of theoretical yield, it will do its job. It's impossible to know "how well" it does its job, without real world testing. That's why we have engineering and R&D labs.

Again, torque is specified for a desired clamping force, which is specific to application.

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Specifically, he's talking about the tendency of the taper on the tool holder to distort and cause excess runout in the holder and tool if you overtighten the retention knob. If you tighten them too much you've permanently distorted the taper and the holder is now a paperweight.

For cat 40 holders I've seen recommendations from finger tight only plus a bit of blue loctite, to 35-75 ft-lb on the instructions included with the holder depending on the manufacturer of the tool holder and retention knob, but none of them even get close to the 110ish ft-lb recommended for a lubricated grade 5 5/8 11 bolt. That's what he's talking about.

It's a very application specific issue, but again, it shows the value of testing to arrive at the correct preload and torque value for the specific application.

Where's your tip???

Don't play in traffic
Now beat it

I understood... I know it's not a big deal to be oversized.... the b14 stoke barrel looks pretty small in that stock, but it works fine.

I got a good deal on a rem 700 vssf in 204 ruger... came with 300 pieces of new brass, dies, bullets.... made my decision for me. If i was building one it would be the 20p because I have a metric poop ton of brass already.

#5 this fall. Just getting some cooler temps in central Alabama. It's starting to pick up.

DonE911 said:

I've done it many times as well, just,don't want to on this stock as it serves double duty with another barreled action this fits well already.

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Your stock but having it over sized doesn’t hurt anything. I have had a med Palma in a stock opened up to take a Proof comp contour. Worked great. Just don’t want you to think you had to stick with the way the stock is.

About the same as a revolver with exposed hammer in double-action... I think my little J-frame trigger pull is probably like 8-10 lbs, I haven't done anything to attempt to lighten it up, I'm sure a guy could if he were so inclined.

When we cut carbon fiber laminate in "industrial quantities" at work and it's not being done with specialized carbide burr end mills on the CNC machines we use diamond grit bandsaw blades for hand work, works great; leaves a nice smooth finish and doesn't chip or chunk the edges or leave fiber pulls which a conventional toothed blade can do sometimes.

At home when modifying carbon and fiberglass stocks I wrap the cut line in tape, cut a little over with a fine tooth bandsaw blade, and then finish to the line on the disc or belt sander, just as Tom has said they do at manners. Work slow and do not get things too hot or you can discolor and degrade the resin / epoxy.

Not hard to do yourself, just don't rush. Or play it safe and send it in.

I've done it many times as well, just,don't want to on this stock as it serves double duty with another barreled action this fits well already.

$780

100 ft/lb is a non-issue accomplishing on/off with a cheap PMA gen 2 vise albeit usually with some barrel marring. If i paid $100s extra for my rifles to be fashion statements i'd consider a different vise or torque value.

I have both in multiples. In an AR and any bolt rifle using AICS type mags 20P. In a bolt action BDL or bolt action with factory mags 204R. When my current coyote 20P is burnt out Im going to an 11 twist 20P AI, 204 speeds and Lapua brass. Make sure you dont use faster than an 11 twist with the 35s at these velocities for coyotes. The bullet wont come apart, but faster than about 3600 and they lose some dependabity on penetration. I had to slow my 9 twist AR down to not have runners.

DonE911 said:

Bohem,
Thanks for the reply.. I've gone to the website to look things over. My manners stock has a proof sendero barrel channel. Which barrel contour do u suggest for a nice fit without modifying the stock?

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If you wanted to go heavier don’t let the barrel channel of the stock stop you. A dowel and some sand paper makes easy work to open it at home. I have done it many times. Takes all of 15 min to do it.

If you like to wildcat - 20P.
If Not - 204R.
I don't need to neck size my 20P brass after sizing.
SJC