Looking for a lightweight 243 6 6.5 for my daughter. Prefer custom. Carbon proof barrel and a shorty.

Let me know what ya got in pm’s please.

So I recently swapped from my 10.5 supressed setup which was a bcm parts based build I did a while back. The gas was tolerable and using a spikes t3 buffer ejection was great upsupressed and pretty darn good supressed. I switched to 12.5 to gain some velocity and it's still carbine length gas system. I have an adjustable gas block here wondering if you think it's gonna be way way to gassy now with a standard block? Getting out shooting tomorrow just curious if I shiuld swap the adjustable block on it or run it and go from there? New barrel is also a BCM

Searched the forum here and couldn't come up with much info on bedding a CZ with the manners stock, so I just jumped right in.
Disclaimer, I'm no expert, in fact this is my first glass bedding job, I'm typically more of a chassis guy, if you've bedded before just pass this one up, it has no new info for someone that's done this before. This is more intended for someone like me who wants to try bedding but not sure if they're ready to jump in or not on their CZ.

Before starting any work, I took a pencil and scribed a line down the action and barrel even with the top of the stock so I would know where it should sit when done. I then removed the barreled action and wrapped blue tape very tightly around the barrel (as close to the end of the fore end as you can) until I could dry fit it back in the stock without the the barrel or action moving when bumped around, and with the pencil line even with where it was when the barreled action was bolted in the stock. This lets the action and barrel sit at rest in the proper place without being bolted down.
Now to the stock prep, I started with clamping the stock in the vise and milling two relief grooves for bedding to bond/be thicker in, this could also be done with a dremel, nothing exact about it.
Next I bored out the rear screw hole slightly over 1/2", the front I did the same, the factory pillar drilled out for maybe 1/8" then is just pressed its way out while I drilled. I wouldn't hand drill these, definitely use a drill press or mill, hand drilling the front screw hole will result in the bit walking rearward since the hole is open on one side and make a mess of the magwell I suspect.

The pillars I used came from pete's pillars, typically I'm a make and do everything myself kind of guy, but as affordable as the pillars are, pre made, with studs and grade 10.9 bolts included as well it just made sense not to waste my time making them.
I dry fit the pillars and trimmed the bottoms to fit where the bottom metal rides, I also sanded the pillar holes in the stock a little more to make them slide in nice and easy and leave room for epoxy.

I used hard wood floor wax for release agent, can't remember the name off hand, big yellow tin. Get a big handful of Q tips from your wife, all my wax was applied with q tips, I also stole some playdough from the kids to block off all the holes and crevices. Apply wax thoroughly and to everything!
I taped off everything I thought may get epoxy on it, looking back, I won't ever tape anything moving forward I don't think, clean up is a breeze and we'll get to that in a minute.
Next I mixed up some devcon and took the leap of spreading it in the stock, not too much, just a nice even coat that will ensure some squishing out but not too much (wish I had taken more pictures), put some on the pillars themselves too, I didn't put quite enough. I was very nervous about this part, but don't be.
On this first attempt I was worried about epoxy getting in the crevices and magwell near the front screw/pillar so I didn't spread epoxy there to start with, now I wish I had, I ended up coming back afterward and bedding that area once I was no longer overly worried about the situation.
I squished my freshly waxed action in the stock, grabbed some tape and wrapped a few very tight wraps around the stock over the scope rail near the rear.
I went ahead and put another wrap on the front and proceeded to start some clean up. This taping method is what the internets call stress free bedding, the goal is not to bolt the action down therefore inducing torque and bending to the action potentially, so it sits perfectly stress free when bolted down later as well.
This is the part I wish more people made clear, clean up is ok, and not as hard as you think it will be. I took a pocket straight blade screw driver and scraped off the majority of what squished out top and bottom, next, take those q tips and some rubbing alcohol (pour a half ounce in a little bowl) and start removing the excess epoxy from the stock and action. The alcohol will almost melt the epoxy and really make it lay down and workable/removeable, use plenty of q tips and alcohol.
Once cleaned up I wrapped a few more layers of tape around the action and stock, ensured my pencil line with still even with the stock, and waited.
This tip is one I found elsewhere on the internets, and it worked beautifully for me. I checked on the excess epoxy I still had sitting on my cardboard box mixing tray every 30 minutes or so, and at 2.5 hours it was pretty firm (this is in a 70 degree garage, moderate Kentucky humidity). I chose to follow what I read and I cut my tape, flipped the gun over, and gave the action a couple easy whacks with a hammer and punch to knock the action out of the stock.
I flipped the stock over and to my delight the epoxy was pretty set but not 100%, then I tried what the internets said and used an x-acto knife to trim the excess epoxy that squished out around the trigger inlet and mag well, this worked much easier than dremeling or milling and came off fairly easy since it wasn't 100% cured yet.
Then I placed the barreled action back in the stock and resecured with tape just like I had previously done, again ensuring all my pencil lines lined up like they did previously.
The next morning I popped it out again, with little to no effort, and cleaned up all my playdough and cleaned off all the wax. Adding epoxy in front and adding more around the pillars are two things I wish I had done more. I ended up taking super thin ca glue and filling in any small gaps around the pillars and stock, it seemed to also soak into the foam/fiberglass/whatever is around the pillars so I feel it may have also stiffened up the area around the epoxy and pillars as well.
Over the next couple days I found myself wishing I had just bedded the front area that I was previously scared to do, so I decided to go on and do it. This time without any tape and with much less worry, it bedded just fine and cleaned off the stock just fine with the alcohol and q tips. In the pictures it still needs a little trimming, I also bed the first couple inches of the barrel based on internets guru's advice, we'll see if it stays or get milled back out.
Now I know how the guys on youtube bed guns so worry free, once you do it once and realize it's not that big of a deal you really calm down about the whole process.

Looking to sell 4 kits of lightitup occular lights for a sendit. This kit has 5 lights rather than the 3 of a brandt built. There are enough parts to do 4 scopes.

Looking for $35 shipped for everything
Payment via papal f&f or zelle


Sold!

Hi all,

Up for sale is a handful of lightly used Eberlestock product that I just don’t get any use out of right now. I’d rather see this stuff in the hands of someone who will run it and enjoy it. All packs with come with hip belts even if not pictured. Items and pricing listed below, happy to make a combo deal for interested buyers!

1. Camas Pant Gunmetal 36x32: $SOLD
2. Camas Pant Coyote 36x32: $SOLD
3. Camas Pant Gunmetal 34x32: $SOLD
4. Camas Pants Coyote 34x32: $SOLD
5. Pioneer Hoody Loden XL: $SOLD

6. Cascade Hoody Gunmetal XL: $50


7. Freefall 3000 Mil Green: $SOLD
8. Freefall 2000 Mil Green: $150


9. Warhammer Dry Earth w/ rare flush frame: $200


Please PM with any questions or offers!

Hi all,

Up for sale is an unused pair of AOR1 contract made Goretex pants in XL.

As a dude that wears a 34 typically, these fit me fine with room to fill when worn under over pants.

Killer piece, camo and price!

Asking $100 shipped

Hi all,

Up for sale is a like new, worn once, now discontinued Patagonia Hyper Puff Jacket. Quiet fabrics, killer insulation, and a slick footprint make this a failproof jacket for fall through spring. These are hard to find in normal people sizes and I’ve been holding onto this one for a while, but don’t need it.

Retailed at $300, asking $220 OBO shipped.

Please feel free to reach out with any questions or offers via PM!

Hi all,

Selling a like new set of Sig Kilo 6ks 10x42 w AB

Retail $1200ish, on sale some places for $850, asking $750 shipped to you.

Selling 2 shooters global pulse levels, both come with charging cord, pic attachment, and m-lol attachment. Both work as they should. The only thing is i modified the Picatinny bases to fit on my pic rail where i like running them, it does not affect performance.

Looking for $115 shipped each, payment via paypal f&f or zelle. Both sold!

Good condition - no use for them anymore.

$40 shipped

As the title states I've been having some issues with the optics (yes plural) on my 716 DMR G2.

When I bought the rifle I also bought a Trijicon 5.5x50 with .308 BDC reticle. First time out at the range I tried to zero it at 100 meters (we use the metric system). I couldn't get it on paper at 100. I tried 50 meters and finally got on paper, but the POI was about 10 inches high after maxing out the elevation adjustment. So I figured the factory 20 MOA top rail was not something the Trijicon was made for. So I decided to change the optic. I managed to sell the Trijicon and bought a Sig Sauer Tango 4 6-24 x 50 and fitted it with a Contessa SBT02 FW - 30mm mount. I laser bore sighted at 25 meters and managed to get the POI and POA to align. Next time out to the range I was on paper at 100 meters but POI was about 8 inches high. I started adjusting elevation and it went 8 more clicks and bottomed out. I checked the owners manual for the zero stop function and I already had it adjusted all the way (did this when I was bore sighting.) So yet again I'm left with an optic that cannot dial enough elevation to zero this rifle on 100m.

What do you guys think? Am I missing something obvious or am I just buying the wrong scope/rings combinations to get this rifle to zero. Groupings are good, I was using 147gn Mil-surplus ammo and getting MOA groupings, just 6 inches above POA. I've been thinking of hand loading some heavier bullets and maybe zeroing for 200m, but I would really like to zero it with the mil-surplus ammo because it's cheap. Reloading components brass, propellant, bullets, etc. have become ridiculously expensive in South Africa so keeping a semi-auto fed, especially in 7.62, can become an endless money pit.
I'm taking a financial knock every time I buy a scope new and sell it as used a few weeks later. I would really like the next scope I buy to be the last one I buy for this rifle, at least for the foreseeable future.

I would really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Are there any other 716 G2's out there who have had similar problems? What optics are being used successfully on these rifles with similar ammo combinations?

Up for sale is iray tx60c with lrf this unit is like new.
5600.00 + shipping
No I won’t take less
No I won’t eat the shipping
No I don’t want trades

The image on this unit is very nice

Whidden 6mm Fat Rat die set like new SOLD

Lee 300 BLK 3 die set SPF

Kinetic 6.5 Creedmoor virgin brass, 157 pieces SOLD

Kinetic 6.5 Creedmoor 1x fired brass, 154 pieces SOLD

PayPal, Venmo, CashApp accepted

Magpul prs gen 3. Like new. Trade for b5 cps medium. $180

In the last 10 years or so, I've always opted to buy an illuminated reticle, but now as I'm contemplating another scope, I realize that I rarely use the illumination feature. Yes...I have them on all but two of the hunting rifles, that I rarely use for anything other than range toys. Both of my "precision" rifles have illuminated reticles...again, I don't recall a time when I've used it. Don't currently own any variation of night vision...but I thought I'd include as a variable in this discussion.

I typically build out rifles for a SHTF/combat type scenario but that doesn't seem particularly relevant these days.

Is an illuminated reticle a must for you on a PRS "type" build that is not used for hunting?

Kinda just a hodge podge of Rimfire Targets I used at the house for practice but have since quit rimfire all together and cleaning some stuff out......1st is from JC Steel is the KYL Racks with 2 racks and 4 Targets (1/4", 1/2" 3/4" and 1") all break down to small package also from JC is 2 double Hangers with a 1", 2- 2", 2 1/2" 3" targets and then 4 A&J spikes and single holders with a 5 and 6" circles and the a 4 and 6 inch square .......figured up new would be 300 bucks or so will sell for 170 shipped (basically half price and then 20 bucks to ship)

Ordered this and upgraded to a rim-x and then received the barrel.

So don’t have anything for this to go on.

Asking $425 shipped

Vortex Razor Gen III 1-10x24 with EBR-7 (MRAD) reticle. Includes a Switchview throw lever, box and paperwork. There is a small dent on the top that looks worse than it is, but you can feel it when you run a finger over it. It doesn’t affect function, and it could be covered by a scope mount so you would never know it was there. $1525 shipped.

Payment: PayPal F&F, Venmo F&F, Zelle, CashApp, or Apple Pay.

Trades (+/- Cash):
-Modbutton Lite (SF Plug)
-Scalarworks Leap 08 (30mm/1.57”)
-Surefire Scout QD Mount (Larue/ADM)
-Radiant Raptor, Griffin SNACH, FCD ACH

I'm seeing a weird result out of Cold Bore. 1st I'm no novice when it comes to Ballistics but this is weird. I enter the posted G7 BC for the 225ELDM..391
Enter my chronyd MV of 2808fps.
My zero conditions & field conditions & Cold Bore predicts 14.3mil @ 1470yds.
However Streloc Pro says 13.7mil as does the new AB app. All using exactly the same inputs.
I fire 5 rnds @ 14.3 & hit .6 high. Dial to 13.7 & I'm on with the next 5 rnds.
I can't drop the DK low enough but if I use a G7 of .440 in CB it lines up.

I have tried to search this topic but was not able to find posts, if I missed, my apologies in advance.
I started to shoot .223 Rem (paper for accuracy only) and wondered when the barrel is too hot. How do you determine what is too hot and what is acceptable?
I am using a Zermatt TL3 with a 26" Shilen with a barrel, 1:9 twist. I currently only use starting loads with CFE223 (23.8 gr) and Hornady 62 gr ELD-VT.
I shoot 10 rds and let it cool off a bit before I shoot 4 to 6 five round groups.
I plan to try my Raytek Autopro next time (used it to check engine temps in my aircooled cars). It will tell me the surface temperature of the barrel. Once I know what that is, I have to decide what is too hot and what is not. Is this a good idea and what is the acceptable temperature range? Thanks for your suggestions.

Looking for a Schmidt Bender 4-16x42, double turn or locking turret model preferred but single ok. Any reticle considered.

PM to discuss thanks!

New rifle teardown, unfired, short action bolt stop. Includes trigger. Zelle or USPS MO, no offers or trades please. $590 shipped USPS insured from private party to your FFL.

Has anyone considered and avoided, or purchased and regretted IOR's tactical line of optics because of the reticles offered?
I know the brand, and Val have had issues in the past, and that may or may not be rectified, but my specific question today is regarding their reticles.

To preface this, I have had and currently have some great glass in my stable, Tangent, Razor II, Razor III, MK5, ATACR and the 5-42 March High Master....BUT
I keep wanting to pull the trigger on some offerings from IOR... most notably



However, their website is poor (wrong photos for the wrong optic description), their info and specs on the reticles they do offer is lack luster, and the pictures and descriptions of the reticles are just down right BAD, or not even shown.

This MP8 Extreme X1 appears to be their pinnacle...but the image associated with it is poor at best when you compare it to the full detail and actual vector display provided by most manufacturers like Nightforce with their MilXT

Anyone care to voice their opinions? I've even gone as far as to contact Valdada and request photos through the optic to get an actual representation of the reticle, but was denied.
I'm to the point where I'm actually designing (finalizing) my own reticle. (i was a designer in college) Since they build them to order anyway...I'm wondering if they would even entertain a custom for me.


Apparently they have a GAP reticle as well...(not even listed on their link of available reticles) but the jpeg they use to showcase it is washed out and hard to read.


The Nightforce Mil-XT for comparison. All reticle details are well displayed on the website...as anyone would expect from a premier manufacturer like NF.

I’m sure this has been discussed and I’ve read a few posts regarding it but they seem to be older.

We are in the process of getting new scopes for our swat rifles (700p in 308). Realistically any engagement we have is under 100 yards (not there couldn’t be something longer, but historically very short distance).

I shoot prs, and am a FFP guy. However , FOV is super important as well as making shots at lower power and actually being able to see the reticle (low light or dark backgrounds). Most of my shots are taken at 4-6x, but I like having the ability to zoom in if needed. I need to have the ability to have a wide fov to see a large area while I’m at 65-80 yards away. we almost always dial, and Christmas tree type reticles are really not needed.

I’m leaning towards a 2-10x in SFP just for fov, I’d like to be at the 3-15x , but the fov at lower power is much more limited .

I’ve seen the nf nxs 2-10, as well as 3-15. Both are sfp. Leupold doesn’t seem to offer anything in their tactical line with sfp. I have shot Burris xtr3s, but its ffp and the reticle is super thin.

Our team leader is big (won’t budge) on buying American products.

Any advice?

Anyone have experience between the two? Looking for the best low light optic I can get that has the build quality, turrets, etc as these two.
Not sure if there is something better….but I can get an Ultra Bright for about $2600 right now, but the Polar is still at that $4k.