For the Love of God, GI Joe and John Wayne.... cleaning and abrasive cleaners

[vh20]

Ok ok, so why no brush in and out? I used to be a one way only pass kind of guy and unscrew the brush after it exists muzzle and so on. However, after watching people like Erik Cortina run his in an out at 100mph, I don’t see why it’s a big deal? Thoughts? I always thought it was a little silly because it’s barrel steel and it’s hard for me to believe that a nylon brush with a brass collar coming out or riding back over the muzzle is going to do anything. Brass is much softer than barrel steel. I mean it flings copper jacketed lead out of it as thousands of feet per second. Is coming backwards over the muzzle really going to do anything?

I use Parker Hale jags with wrapped patches, and also nylon brushes, and I run them in both directions. With the jag/patch, I stop the stroke when the tip of the jag has exited the muzzle, but before the entire wrapped patch has exited (ie. half-way out the muzzle). If you let the whole thing exit, the patch may try to ball-up at the muzzle on the return stroke and be excessively hard to return.
With a brush, you pretty much have to let it completely exit, because if you don't, the bristles have to reverse direction within the bore and that causes difficulty. I let the brush exit, then slowly let it re-center itself in the muzzle on the return stroke before bringing it back to the chamber end. I can't see how you could possibly do any damage to the crown if you are gentle (as above) when you are transiting through it in either direction. I DO, however, always finish the final stroke of either patch or brush on the way OUT of the barrel to push any dislodged debris out with it, and I finish up with dry patches in the same one-way direction to push everything out the muzzle. I have not experienced any premature loss of barrel life using these techniques, and I believe that going in both directions does a better job of scrubbing the bore clean.

 

[Islas82]

So what you’re saying is no CLR? Got it.

 

[Baron23]

I use Parker Hale jags with wrapped patches, and also nylon brushes, and I run them in both directions. With the jag/patch, I stop the stroke when the tip of the jag has exited the muzzle, but before the entire wrapped patch has exited (ie. half-way out the muzzle). If you let the whole thing exit, the patch may try to ball-up at the muzzle on the return stroke and be excessively hard to return.
With a brush, you pretty much have to let it completely exit, because if you don't, the bristles have to reverse direction within the bore and that causes difficulty. I let the brush exit, then slowly let it re-center itself in the muzzle on the return stroke before bringing it back to the chamber end. I can't see how you could possibly do any damage to the crown if you are gentle (as above) when you are transiting through it in either direction. I DO, however, always finish the final stroke of either patch or brush on the way OUT of the barrel to push any dislodged debris out with it, and I finish up with dry patches in the same one-way direction to push everything out the muzzle. I have not experienced any premature loss of barrel life using these techniques, and I believe that going in both directions does a better job of scrubbing the bore clean.

I use a muzzle thread protector with a slug (nickel or penny would also do depending on diameter) inside to keep from exiting the muzzle w the PH jags.

 

[carbonbased]

I use a muzzle thread protector with a slug (nickel or penny would also do depending on diameter) inside to keep from exiting the muzzle w the PH jags.

If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags? Maybe you only use them with the Parker Hale type. I use a stopper for almost everything…for example, I stop the base (rod/jag transition) of the spear jags from going over the crown.

I haven’t tried this yet, but assuming you use a bore guide you could insert something like a Bic pen body at the rear. Sandwich it between the rod handle and bore guide. It should stop forward movement.

Currently I use a Pro Shot rod stop collet thing, which can slip a little. I remedy this by slapping some gaffer tape right behind it. I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it, but it is maybe a little more convenient than having an assortment of different length Bic pen-like tubes for the different bore guide/rod combos. It does work better than just tape.

Ignore the writing on the tape…I just reused an old piece. Tear it off if you need more of the rod for a different gun.

They make them for their .22 -.26 and .270+ Cal rods. Here’s there .22-.26 one.

Rod Stop for .22-.26 Cal. Rods

Also, Possum Hollow makes a plastic one:

I guess it grips better with a sheath of nylon air brake tubing between it and the rod.

Possum Hollow Cleaning Rod Stop 27 to 45 Cal

Set these stops on your cleaning rod and you can set the exact depth to which the rod travels through the bore. Perfect for use in conjunction with a...

www.midwayusa.com

I’m sure there are more solid rod clamps out there…they probably mar the rod but who cares? It’s too far back to enter the barrel anyways. I’ve been too lazy to search for them beyond McMaster (didn’t find what I wanted).

 

[Baron23]

If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags?

I don’t do this with pointed jags….as I mentioned, this is with PH type jags for occasional scrubbing with abrasives.

I used printed jags for regular solvent/dry patch work and I exit the patches out the muzzle and into an MTM plastic box they make for this purpose. It’s very handy and worth the few buck IMO.

And yes, I always use a bore guide as I don’t want any of that crap in my trigger assembly.

 

[carbonbased]

I used printed jags for regular solvent/dry patch work and I exit the patches out the muzzle and into an MTM plastic box they make for this purpose.

Where do you get printed jags? Sounds interesting.

I own that same green MTM box! It is indeed awesome.

 

[Baron23]

Where do you get printed jags? Sounds interesting.

I own that same green MTM box! It is indeed awesome.

Frakin phone. lololol

POINTED jags. Not printed. Though I’m surprised that one of our many home manf people haven’t started making them.

 

[lash]

Frakin phone. lololol

POINTED jags. Not printed. Though I’m surprised that one of our many home manf people haven’t started making them.

Have you asked MTM?

 

[Tokay444]

IF You don't want to bother removing Jag , you can purchase plastic thread screw inserts ,things you drill a hole in your wall tap in plastic insert and put a screw into . Just buy the un-flanged and those come in a few sizes also . Screw your Jag into one end ,pull the Rod back ,does same thing .

View attachment 8669981

View attachment 8669962

What?

 

[6.5SH]

If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags? Maybe you only use them with the Parker Hale type. I use a stopper for almost everything…for example, I stop the base (rod/jag transition) of the spear jags from going over the crown.

I haven’t tried this yet, but assuming you use a bore guide you could insert something like a Bic pen body at the rear. Sandwich it between the rod handle and bore guide. It should stop forward movement.

Currently I use a Pro Shot rod stop collet thing, which can slip a little. I remedy this by slapping some gaffer tape right behind it. I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it, but it is maybe a little more convenient than having an assortment of different length Bic pen-like tubes for the different bore guide/rod combos. It does work better than just tape.

View attachment 8670504
Ignore the writing on the tape…I just reused an old piece. Tear it off if you need more of the rod for a different gun.

They make them for their .22 -.26 and .270+ Cal rods. Here’s there .22-.26 one.

Rod Stop for .22-.26 Cal. Rods

Also, Possum Hollow makes a plastic one:
View attachment 8670502
I guess it grips better with a sheath of nylon air brake tubing between it and the rod.

Possum Hollow Cleaning Rod Stop 27 to 45 Cal

Set these stops on your cleaning rod and you can set the exact depth to which the rod travels through the bore. Perfect for use in conjunction with a...

www.midwayusa.com

I’m sure there are more solid rod clamps out there…they probably mar the rod but who cares? It’s too far back to enter the barrel anyways. I’ve been too lazy to search for them beyond McMaster (didn’t find what I wanted).

I use one of the brass muzzle cones to center the rod in the guide. On a rod that didn't have one of the plastic stops I've used a stack of O-rings.

 

[Ex E6]

Ok ok, so why no brush in and out? I used to be a one way only pass kind of guy and unscrew the brush after it exists muzzle and so on. However, after watching people like Erik Cortina run his in an out at 100mph, I don’t see why it’s a big deal? Thoughts? I always thought it was a little silly because it’s barrel steel and it’s hard for me to believe that a nylon brush with a brass collar coming out or riding back over the muzzle is going to do anything. Brass is much softer than barrel steel. I mean it flings copper jacketed lead out of it as thousands of feet per second. Is coming backwards over the muzzle really going to do anything?

I too have done the same....used to remove the brush at the muzzle, pull the rod, reattached the brush, rinse and repeat and concluded it was a total fucking waste of time.

I use nylon brushes and see zero impact to the crown or anything else.

And...I haven't seen Cortina do it....but I've seen Speedy run that rod back and forth like he was stroking his meat. lol

The intended purpose ( whether one does it or not ) is to push fouling out ,NOT embed fouling into fractures by stroking back and forth .

Another method I used for the longest time was placing a Sherwood plug into the muzzle end of the bore , pouring a specific amount of bore cleaner into it . While Rifle was in a muzzle down rack I made . I would then take a Nylon brush and go back and forth ,as it was completely immersed in bore cleaner . I still do it occasionally when I'm cleaning several Rifles at a time . MY Rack holds #6 Rifles , so several can soak ,as you're cleaning others . I recycle and filter most all of My solvents ,adding to them occasionally .

As far as patches go correct size matters ,so as to cover a Parker Hale Jag and patch material also makes a difference ,as to toughness and ability to hold solvent .

I've found by stroking with the twist and removing the dirty patch ,one uses less patches overall while cleaning .

Ditto with Bore Mops . If one wants to stroke their bore patch it clean first ,then use a mop with solvent .

Note there are different bore mops size wise and material wise . I sometimes use a Hard wound bore mop of appropriate Dia. and use JB Bore Paste ,to Stroke polish a bore . I've had Excellent results using that method prior to firing and after ,as long as not too many rounds have gone down range . Ease of cleaning and actually has tightened some groups ,with respect to accuracy .

 

[Baron23]

The intended purpose ( whether one does it or not ) is to push fouling out ,NOT embed fouling into fractures by stroking back and forth .

Another method I used for the longest time was placing a Sherwood plug into the muzzle end of the bore , pouring a specific amount of bore cleaner into it . While Rifle was in a muzzle down rack I made . I would then take a Nylon brush and go back and forth ,as it was completely immersed in bore cleaner . I still do it occasionally when I'm cleaning several Rifles at a time . MY Rack holds #6 Rifles , so several can soak ,as you're cleaning others . I recycle and filter most all of My solvents ,adding to them occasionally .

As far as patches go correct size matters ,so as to cover a Parker Hale Jag and patch material also makes a difference ,as to toughness and ability to hold solvent .

I've found by stroking with the twist and removing the dirty patch ,one uses less patches overall while cleaning .

Ditto with Bore Mops . If one wants to stroke their bore patch it clean first ,then use a mop with solvent .

Note there are different bore mops size wise and material wise . I sometimes use a Hard wound bore mop of appropriate Dia. and use JB Bore Paste ,to Stroke polish a bore . I've had Excellent results using that method prior to firing and after ,as long as not too many rounds have gone down range . Ease of cleaning and actually has tightened some groups ,with respect to accuracy .

Seems that there are as many cleaning routines as there are shooters.

As for patches....I do not run patches back and forth except with the PH jag and using abrasives (JB blue label) which is infrequent. And the PH/abrasives don't go in until solvent/brush/patching is done to avoid grinding lose carbon into the bore.

I do run the brush back and forth, as I said above, and have found no detrimental effect.

Different drummers for different marchers.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I use Parker Hale jags with wrapped patches, and also nylon brushes, and I run them in both directions. With the jag/patch, I stop the stroke when the tip of the jag has exited the muzzle, but before the entire wrapped patch has exited (ie. half-way out the muzzle). If you let the whole thing exit, the patch may try to ball-up at the muzzle on the return stroke and be excessively hard to return.
With a brush, you pretty much have to let it completely exit, because if you don't, the bristles have to reverse direction within the bore and that causes difficulty. I let the brush exit, then slowly let it re-center itself in the muzzle on the return stroke before bringing it back to the chamber end. I can't see how you could possibly do any damage to the crown if you are gentle (as above) when you are transiting through it in either direction. I DO, however, always finish the final stroke of either patch or brush on the way OUT of the barrel to push any dislodged debris out with it, and I finish up with dry patches in the same one-way direction to push everything out the muzzle. I have not experienced any premature loss of barrel life using these techniques, and I believe that going in both directions does a better job of scrubbing the bore clean.

this is my program too basically. The nylon brush works a ton better than just jags and I'm too scared to use a bronze brush. I can't see how a nylon brush could cause damage unless you're a crazy man bringing it back in the bore on the muzzle end or you are using an abrasive, which I've never used.

 

[Ex E6]

this is my program too basically. The nylon brush works a ton better than just jags and I'm too scared to use a bronze brush. I can't see how a nylon brush could cause damage unless you're a crazy man bringing it back in the bore on the muzzle end or you are using an abrasive, which I've never used.

IT'S NOT the brush doing the damage ,it's what the brush dislodged that does the damage . As I said in a round about way ,cleaning is the object ,so that's what's important .
When I was a General contractor back in late 60's early 70's building structures , slabs sub floors got dirty sawdust scraps of wood nails screws framers lunch leftovers . I found sweeping with a push broom from in too out ,was preferable ,too sweeping with a whisk broom back and forth .

IF one stops to think of it logically ,solvent + brush stroked chamber too muzzle pushes out dislodged jacket and carbon fouling . By following the barrel lands twist ,without reintroducing crap lodged in the brush . Kind of like slapping the push broom up and down when reaching end of each stroke , crap remains and doesn't return with broom .

Fyi : I've never had a bronze or brass brush do any damage to a bore either and have used em 60+ years . I prefer the Nylon as it retains more solvent and WHY I use them more than bronze or brass .

Seems that there are as many cleaning routines as there are shooters.

As for patches....I do not run patches back and forth except with the PH jag and using abrasives (JB blue label) which is infrequent. And the PH/abrasives don't go in until solvent/brush/patching is done to avoid grinding lose carbon into the bore.

I do run the brush back and forth, as I said above, and have found no detrimental effect.

Different drummers for different marchers.

I only use JB Bore paste ONE Time ,so as to polish the bore before bore is broken in . Just wanted to clarify that point and YES Bore is thoroughly cleaned prior to using bore paste and again when finished .

The optimal beat of which we all march too is ,ACCURACY and why one reloads