Rifle Scopes Parallax settings. Leave parallax alone for the whole stage?

Stalker417S

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Minuteman
May 13, 2018
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So thinking about parallax and figuring out how the physics works.
And seems like the maximum parallax error depends on objective size and parallax setting.
If for example i would engage multiple man sized targets from 100yards to 1000yards as quick as possible without adjusting my parallax between targets. It seems that i can leave the parallax at 1000yards and i will do fine with a maximim error at 100yards of just 0,9inches. But if i sett parallax to 100yards and leave it there my maximum error at 1000yards is 8,8inches!!!

Is this correct or am i missing something?


Copy from parallax calculator webpage:
This quick calculator shows the amount of parallax error that may occur using a fixed-parallax scope to sight onto an object placed at a known distance. 'Maximum parallax error' is in the context of the viewer setting up with their eye centered on the ocular lens -- using it as is normally intended. Strictly speaking the maximum possible error is double the number you will get below if you sight to your destination by peeking through it from the edge of your scope... which nobody actually does. For a true theoretical maximum double the returned result values.

Parallax set at 100yards with 50mm objective.
@100yards.PNG

Parallax set at 999yards (calculator won't do 1000yards) with 50mm objective.
@999yards.PNG
 
Just from a practical perspective, would you rather have the fixed-sized target fuzzy at 100 yards or 1000 yards? Is reading the mirage more important at 100 yards or 1000 yards? If you can't touch parallax for whatever reason, setting it to out toward the farthest target seems advisable.
 
As long as the parallax is set correctly when zeroing.

It isn't a big deal just to turn the parallax until you have a clear image. You won't be perfect, but you will be close. If in competition, I would imagine you could pick a median distance for the target package on that particular stage and fair pretty well.
 
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:)
What would a sun shade do for this?
not a sun shade; it is what we used to do and still do when you don’t have time to run the parallax knob or when shooting ELR and no real way other than “infinity” when shimmer is creating really fuzzy moving targets.

By ensuring the scope shadow is even all around your ocular, you ensure your eyeball is dead center.
 
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I guess this confirmed my thoughts.
Seems i would benefit to keep the parallax closer to the longer ranges.
What i have done before when shooting multiple targets quick with reticle holdover (with HK mr762) is to put the parallax to 3/4 of furthest target. All targes looks clear trough s&b pmII 3-12x50 when doing this. This combimation with semi-auto is crazy fast when i don’t need to touch the scope during firing.
 
I've wondered this for a long time what others are doing. Cool topic. When I practice using the tree holding elevation and wind I work my way in and out shooting 250, 500, 750, 1000 then back again in and out as fast as I can get hits. For no particular reason I set the parallax about 600ish since the 250 targets are pretty just give-mes. Of course it depends on the size of the targets at all ranges what the acceptable error is.

While I have yet to get time with a TT one thing I keep noticing in reviews is the owners say the need for parallax adjustment is almost nil at the longer ranges. Set it and forget it. That alone is pretty attractive- would love to see some kind of spec how scopes stack up in that department. I know I have to spend a lot more time fucking with the parallax on the IOR on my trainer vs the Vortex vs the Minox. It does have a smaller objective though.
 
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