Tikka T3 Thread

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I hesitate to post this as I don’t want to set you into buyer’s remorse convulsions, but…


As the below link suggests, Unknown Munitions might be making them soon as well, with BAT Machine as the OEM.


But I get it if you can get other components way cheaper. It adds up.
I have one of these bolt bodies
Works great
Paul is a great gunsmith as well. Done a number of projects for me now and is always high quality work.
 
T3 superlight in 7-08 and a MPI stock is only 4 oz heavier than my Barrett Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor with the same scope.

hmmmmm

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T3 superlight in 7-08 and a MPI stock is only 4 oz heavier than my Barrett Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor with the same scope.

hmmmmm

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I know a lot of people really want light rifles, but I don’t. Give me a 15 lb rifle and accessories and I am happy. Less recoil, less recoil effect, better accuracy, dependability. But that’s why there are options to exercise, it takes all kinds to make the world go round. I won’t be hiking hundreds of miles into the wild, so a little weight on my shoulder won’t hurt a thing. I would rather save the weight in my pack than with my rifle.
 
I know a lot of people really want light rifles, but I don’t. Give me a 15 lb rifle and accessories and I am happy. Less recoil, less recoil effect, better accuracy, dependability. But that’s why there are options to exercise, it takes all kinds to make the world go round. I won’t be hiking hundreds of miles into the wild, so a little weight on my shoulder won’t hurt a thing. I would rather save the weight in my pack than with my rifle.
maybe if walking 20 yards from a truck to a box blind but on a backcoountry or spot n stalk hunt no way in hell am i carrying an extra 6 lbs in my rifle. you just gotta practice more if you can't shoot a 9 lb rifle at hunting distances.
 
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maybe if walking 20 yards from a truck to a box blind but on a backcoountry or spot n stalk hunt no way in hell am i carrying an extra 6 lbs in my rifle. you just gotta practice more if you can't shoot a 9 lb rifle at hunting distances.
I can. I can also carry an extra 6 lbs for 20 or 30 miles without much of a problem. I am also 70. If you are much younger and can’t handle 6 lbs well, dayum.
I can easily pare 6 lbs from a pack. I think I said something about that earlier. Taking a pack implies more than 20 yds lol.
But hey. As I said, it’s all about personal choices. I expressed my preferences. 6 lbs is nothing. I much prefer the behavior of my rifle with the 6 than without. That’s my reason. I recognized in my previous post that many prefer a lighter rifle. Is my choice, for me, wrong? No.
I never said yours was wrong for you. As far as I meant, I didn’t imply yours was wrong for you either.

*shrugs*
 
Dream on old fella
Hahahahahaha so funny! 👍
I appreciate your concern for my health and well being. Hahaha
This is my pack as I prepare for a trip next month into the Appalachians in NC. Thankfully, I can take my time and have no time constraints. 6 lbs is next to nothing lol. Not my first rodeo bubba. I am guessing you have never carried 80 lbs of gear day in day out. So, yeah, maybe for you 6 lbs is intimidating.
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So, how ‘bout that Tikka T3, huh guys…?
I love mine. I pier bedded it and added weight to the forend and I am very happy with the stability and balance. Handles and shoots like a dream and it will likely be my last rifle. I added a cheek riser as my most recent improvement.
Superb for a lot of uses. I just wish I had known of Tikkas much earlier.
The way things are going it may be an asshat removal device in the future LOL
I have a couple of teen grand boys whom I plan to leave my knife collection and guns to. I just hope they appreciate them as I have the memories I have of my grand parents.
 
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I am guessing you have never carried 80 lbs of gear day in day out. So, yeah, maybe for you 6 lbs is intimidating.
6lbs in a 80lbs pack is 7.5% of its total weight.

Or, in a 74lbs pack, adding 6lbs to 80lbs is adding 8.1% more weight.

Gets worse as the packout gets lighter, of course.

Adding 6lbs to a 40lbs pack adds 15% more pounds (46lbs total). Heck, some entire mountain rifles are around 6lbs.

You sound like a tough guy. When I was 29, I remember getting beat by a few 70+ yr olds in a 32 mile xc ski race.

You must be one of those bastards lol.

It may not matter much to you, but realize to mere mortals the above percentages are significant.

Age will catch up to all of us (if we don’t die first).
 
6lbs in a 80lbs pack is 7.5% of its total weight.

Or, in a 74lbs pack, adding 6lbs to 80lbs is adding 8.1% more weight.

Gets worse as the packout gets lighter, of course.

Adding 6lbs to a 40lbs pack adds 15% more pounds (46lbs total). Heck, some entire mountain rifles are around 6lbs.

You sound like a tough guy. When I was 29, I remember getting beat by a few 70+ yr olds in a 32 mile xc ski race.

You must be one of those bastards lol.

It may not matter much to you, but realize to mere mortals the above percentages are significant.

Age will catch up to all of us (if we don’t die first).
Whelp, the closer you get, the closer you are. Last year was going to be my last major camping trip. I think I can handle one more. Hell, I got more than 6 lbs of fat on me. If you weigh 200 and you carry 50 in a pack and Rifle, 6 lbs is 2.4% of the total weight. In calculus one way to describe it is “as X approaches zero” lol
6 lbs is only a problem if you dwell on it, otherwise it’s the 50 lbs that the problem LOL
I don’t know about a tough guy, but I am a nut. I am a shell of the former me, and I think that is who I compete with.

I really love spending time out in the woods, alone. That is what really matters.
 
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If you weigh 200 and you carry 50 in a pack and Rifle, 6 lbs is 2.4% of the total weight.
Yeah, but the problem with that calc is the 50lbs pack can’t carry itself. It just laughs the whole way at the other 200lbs haha

So, with a lighter gun one could’ve had a 44lbs pack, but with that heavier rifle one carries an extra 13.6%.

But hey, I get wanting to use the rifle you’re comfy with. That might make the difference between bagging something or not.

I really love spending time out in the woods, alone. That is what really matters.
Totally agree. I’m in my mid-fifties, and I hope I’ll still be as active as you are when I get up there.

Heck, I’ll probably be dead by then ☠️
 
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Yeah, but the problem with that calc is the 50lbs pack can’t carry itself. It just laughs the whole way at the other 200lbs haha

So, with a lighter gun one could’ve had a 44lbs pack, but with that heavier rifle one carries an extra 13.6%.

But hey, I get wanting to use the rifle you’re comfy with. That might make the difference between bagging something or not.


Totally agree. I’m in my mid-fifties, and I hope I’ll still be as active as you are when I get up there.

Heck, I’ll probably be dead by then ☠️
I died when I was 62. Didn’t think I would see 65. Feel better now than I did at 61. You just never know.
I liked the 50# laughing at the 200# LOL love it!
I maintain that not focusing on the 6 makes it all a bit lighter lol focus on the woods! Sit frequently and enjoy!
I also carry a handgun but that, too, is non-negotiable 😃
 
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Aaannd here’s a (problematic-light-strikes) Tikka Super Varmint in .223 for the thread! Shortly going back to Tikka for the second time!
That sucks! I have the same model in .308. Mine shoots beautifully. With 155gr Scenars every load I tested printed <1MOA. The good loads prints half that.
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Sorry for the Tikka related question but...

I understand that a Tikka 'LA' has the different bolt stop allowing more travel and no spacers in the magazines.

I also understand there are atleast 5 different length magazines (spacers) (223=?, 308=2.82, 270wsm =2.9, 6.5PRC = 3.074, 300WM =3.34). Maybe there are more.

Now my question are there also 5 or more different bolt stops? Or do the 270WSM magazines and PRC magazines run the short bolt stop?
 
Shot the 7Mag off the bench with the witt brake. Easily 30 - 40% reduction in recoil. Now more like my lightweight 308, which is great.

10 shots to confirm POI, shoulder still works, so there is that. Rifle doesn’t jump around under recoil any more either.

Loud, but I wear ear pro when I hunt anyway (in the ear noise cancelling).
 
Shot the 7Mag off the bench with the witt brake. Easily 30 - 40% reduction in recoil. Now more like my lightweight 308, which is great.

10 shots to confirm POI, shoulder still works, so there is that. Rifle doesn’t jump around under recoil any more either.

Loud, but I wear ear pro when I hunt anyway (in the ear noise cancelling).
Thanks for the update on the brake. I am going to grab one of those. I like the looks and the design is similar to ones I have used before
 
Sorry for the Tikka related question but...

I understand that a Tikka 'LA' has the different bolt stop allowing more travel and no spacers in the magazines.

I also understand there are atleast 5 different length magazines (spacers) (223=?, 308=2.82, 270wsm =2.9, 6.5PRC = 3.074, 300WM =3.34). Maybe there are more.

Now my question are there also 5 or more different bolt stops? Or do the 270WSM magazines and PRC magazines run the short bolt stop?
i've only seen short and long bolt stops.

wsm should be short bolt stop, prc should be long bolt stop.

check out the various receivers here and they say bolt face, internal mag length, and bolt stop length

 
Sorry for the Tikka related question but...

I understand that a Tikka 'LA' has the different bolt stop allowing more travel and no spacers in the magazines.

I also understand there are atleast 5 different length magazines (spacers) (223=?, 308=2.82, 270wsm =2.9, 6.5PRC = 3.074, 300WM =3.34). Maybe there are more.

Now my question are there also 5 or more different bolt stops? Or do the 270WSM magazines and PRC magazines run the short bolt stop?
Have this saved from sometime earlier in this thread.
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A couple places make a Tikka bolt stop that magically converts into all three lengths. Can’t remember who.
Ok found it:

 
Not so sure this is how it is anymore.

I took my t3x lite in .308, and utilizes the ctr mags in the bravo chassis with zero issues.
I think the lite stop in 308 or 6.5 bolt face is either ctr or long. I'm guessing more ctr. That post was meant to show there aren't 5.

Should likely have been labeled long as magnum length, ctr as normal, short as 223.

My 6.5 creed t3x lite
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I think the lite stop in 308 or 6.5 bolt face is either ctr or long. I'm guessing more ctr. That post was meant to show there aren't 5.

Should likely have been labeled long as magnum length, ctr as normal, short as 223.

This is what I get for being on straight nights for 2 months. Looking at it with a rested mind, makes far more sense as it is.
 
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I, too, have an Origin SA build and recently bought a Tikka LA. The T3X kills an Origin for value imo, and if I could go back would just have started with Tikka.

T3X comes with decent trigger, bottom metal, integral rail, and buttery action (my origin took forever to break in). Even the factory stock is pretty good if just using as a straight hunting rifle. All for less than the cost of an Origin.

At the moment I have a hammer of a barrel on the Origin, otherwise I would probably sell it to buy another T3X dedicated for SA
I am struggling with this decision myself.(Do I get the Origin that Rem700 compatible and allows for swappable bolt faces or do I get a prefab like a Tikka T3X) I am completely new to bolt action rifles (never shot one before) By default I always like things that are custom built because normally you can get higher quality parts and sometimes cheaper on par with prefab. But at the same time If it is not necessary to go full custom like that starting out then I am open to other options. I have been struggling with this decision for almost a week now haha. I am down a rabbit hole doing countless hours of research and comparing everything. What all do you use your Tikka for? Have you been able to get it sub MOA?
 
I am struggling with this decision myself.(Do I get the Origin that Rem700 compatible and allows for swappable bolt faces or do I get a prefab like a Tikka T3X) I am completely new to bolt action rifles (never shot one before) By default I always like things that are custom built because normally you can get higher quality parts and sometimes cheaper on par with prefab. But at the same time If it is not necessary to go full custom like that starting out then I am open to other options. I have been struggling with this decision for almost a week now haha. I am down a rabbit hole doing countless hours of research and comparing everything. What all do you use your Tikka for? Have you been able to get it sub MOA?
Tikka's are great factory rifles, I really like mine, but I won't pretend they are the same as a custom. Depends what you want to do and how much you want to spend? Mine will shoot very small groups with Lapua brass, VV powder, Federal primers and Berger bullets YMMV, easily sub MOA.
 
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I am struggling with this decision myself.(Do I get the Origin that Rem700 compatible and allows for swappable bolt faces or do I get a prefab like a Tikka T3X) I am completely new to bolt action rifles (never shot one before) By default I always like things that are custom built because normally you can get higher quality parts and sometimes cheaper on par with prefab. But at the same time If it is not necessary to go full custom like that starting out then I am open to other options. I have been struggling with this decision for almost a week now haha. I am down a rabbit hole doing countless hours of research and comparing everything. What all do you use your Tikka for? Have you been able to get it sub MOA?
The two Tikka’s I own have been 5-shot sub-MOA out of the box with good factory ammo.

I own/have owned a couple AI’s, an older R700 varmint, four CZ 527, two Bergara Premiers, and a pre-64 Mod 70.

The Tikka’s bolt throw is easily as smooth and effortless as any of those, and maybe has even less friction. It’s eerie.

Paragraph thoughts edited after rereading: Tikka’s bolt lift is a little heavier than my Bergara Premiers (not the cheaper B14!) or my slightly worked over R700. But, it’s still pretty darn nice…and bolt close is very low effort. The AI is way heavier open & close (I don’t mind).

Now, the lift not like what I’ve heard a Lone Peak or similar is like (near effortless) but that 70° bolt throw has got me hooked. Buy a Sterk bolt handle and it feels like an AI!

You can buy prefits for both an origin and Tikka. You can buy Tikka compatible bolts now.

KRG is reworking their excellently-reviewed two-stage Midas trigger. People say that the Tikka trigger design is less prone to fouling than the R700 pattern…I have no opinion. Changing a Tikka trigger is screw-out, screw in affair (no R700 punch pins). Single stage Tikka triggers become awesome with a $10 spring.

The bolt stop pin can fail on a Tikka, I guess.

As mainly a small caliber guy (223/204) I’ve found the Tikka CTR mags totally rock compared to AICS. Much shorter and I don’t have to mod them for 204 optimization. I’ve heard 6br feeds from Tikka mags no problem (can’t remember if that’s reg mags, CTR, or both).

Tikka/Beretta’s CS can be spotty, I read. They sure don’t push the platform on us as much as they should.

The Tikka action is a little lighter and more svelte than the R700, is that matters one way or the other. I like it.

If you want a Tikka CTR KRG Whiskey 3 chassis, buy a Bravo CTR chassis and then buy their TRG rear-end (in their TRG section only, oddly). The Bravo is such a great chassis.

Full disclosure: I’ve had issues with one of my Tikka’s having light strikes, but I buy many of my guns at my LGS and they are having their local Tikka rep step in and solve it. But I’ve had problems with guns from other brands too.

I’m still stunned that the Finns out out such a gun at the price they do. It’s amazing.

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W3 cheekpiece on a CTR Bravo.

I think you need to feel the rifles first, ideally.
 
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The two Tikka’s I own have been 5-shot sub-MOA out of the box with good factory ammo.

I own/have owned a couple AI’s, an older R700 varmint, four CZ 527, two Bergara Premiers, and a pre-64 Mod 70.

The Tikka’s bolt throw is easily as smooth and effortless as any of those, and maybe has even less friction. It’s eerie.

Tikka’s bolt lift is about like my Bergara Premiers (not the cheaper B14!) or my slightly worked over R700. Pretty darn nice…tied to the best I own. The AI is way heavier (I don’t mind).

Now, the lift not like what I’ve heard a Lone Peak or similar is like (near effortless) but that 70° bolt throw has got me hooked. Buy a Sterk bolt handle and it feels like an AI!

You can buy prefits for both an origin and Tikka. You can buy Tikka compatible bolts now.

KRG is reworking their excellently-reviewed two-stage Midas trigger. People say that the Tikka trigger design is less prone to fouling than the R700 pattern…I have no opinion. Changing a Tikka trigger is screw-out, screw in affair (no R700 punch pins). Single stage Tikka triggers become awesome with a $10 spring.

The bolt stop pin can fail on a Tikka, I guess.

As mainly a small caliber guy (223/204) I’ve found the Tikka CTR mags totally rock compared to AICS. Much shorter and I don’t have to mod them for 204 optimization. I’ve heard 6br feeds from Tikka mags no problem (can’t remember if that’s reg mags, CTR, or both).

Tikka/Beretta’s CS can be spotty, I read. They sure don’t push the platform on us as much as they should.

The Tikka action is a little lighter and more svelte than the R700, is that matters one way or the other. I like it.

If you want a Tikka CTR KRG Whiskey 3 chassis, buy a Bravo CTR chassis and then buy their TRG rear-end (in their TRG section only, oddly). The Bravo is such a great chassis.

Full disclosure: I’ve had issues with one of my Tikka’s having light strikes, but I buy many of my guns at my LGS and they are having their local Tikka rep step in and solve it. But I’ve had problems with guns from other brands too.

I’m still stunned that the Finns out out such a gun at the price they do. It’s amazing.

View attachment 8434450
W3 cheekpiece on a CTR Bravo.

I think you need to feel the rifles first, ideally.
Agreed. I was shooting my TAC A1 today and the action does surprise me with how smooth it is(about 1000 rounds through it). The Sterk bolt handle is a must, a nice easy upgrade. Nice looking gun in the Bravo (y)
 
Agreed. I was shooting my TAC A1 today and the action does surprise me with how smooth it is(about 1000 rounds through it). The Sterk bolt handle is a must, a nice easy upgrade. Nice looking gun in the Bravo (y)
Calling it my cheap TRG22 haha.

I also have the similar-ish Anarchy bolt handle/round knob for it and cannot believe how much more I prefer the Sterk! @cannoncrossfire is a genius.

Sadly, today I must attend a darn high school graduation. No shooting for me 😞
 
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Calling it my cheap TRG22 haha.

I also have the similar-ish Anarchy bolt handle/round knob for it and cannot believe how much more I prefer the Sterk! @cannoncrossfire is a genius.

Sadly, today I must attend a darn high school graduation. No shooting for me 😞
I was getting a TRG vibe 😉 We had a competition, won the team trophy the rest of the team were running customs in more competitive cartridges than .308 so I was doing my best not to drop points in the wind!
 
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Single stage Tikka triggers become awesome with a $10 spring.

I’m still stunned that the Finns out out such a gun at the price they do. It’s amazing.

View attachment 8434450
W3 cheekpiece on a CTR Bravo.

I think you need to feel the rifles first, ideally.
I took a regular spring purchased on Amazon (part of a selection of sizes) and subbed for the original spring. I had to try out several before finding the one I liked, but it’s perfect. Very very light trigger pull. The 100 springs or how many it was cost less than $10. I ended up using one that was lighter and a bit longer.
I have customed the heck out of my t3x and absolutely love it. It is a 1/2 moa rifle and my standards are tough. I don’t discount any shots, I don’t accept some groups and not others. I am confident I can shoot 100 rounds and still be 1/2 moa.
Love Tikka!!! Arr arr arr! LoL
 
With a tikka you can start shooting immediately and then upgrade as needed.
I had a complete rifle for $836 and it was shoot able the entire way. Immediately added a rail so I could mount a scope (I bought a used razor 2 in anticipation) but I could've used my Leopold mark ar 3-9 mismatched pos scope. Added a Caldwell sling stud to pic adapter so I could add my atlas cal.

How it started
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How it is now (except for titanium ball now) .
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Cost is currently $6274. If you have the full amount available right away, or have other existing parts or chassis, it might be better to go other directions. I have nothing inheritable that is r700 or anything else that pushed me that way. No inclinations to clone or otherwise. Besides lefty is hard enough anyway as it is.
 
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Tikka's are great factory rifles, I really like mine, but I won't pretend they are the same as a custom. Depends what you want to do and how much you want to spend? Mine will shoot very small groups with Lapua brass, VV powder, Federal primers and Berger bullets YMMV, easily sub MOA.
Right now I just need to get my feet wet and learn the fundamentals of shooting. I've never owned/shot a bolt action rifle before. That being said If I can find something I can grow with and not have to replace to keep advancing that would be ideal. I also like the ability to change bolt faces with the Origin and it being based on the R700 it seems more aftermarket parts are available for it. I am open to buying a Tikka though if I can find one for a decent enough price.
 
Right now I just need to get my feet wet and learn the fundamentals of shooting. I've never owned/shot a bolt action rifle before. That being said If I can find something I can grow with and not have to replace to keep advancing that would be ideal. I also like the ability to change bolt faces with the Origin and it being based on the R700 it seems more aftermarket parts are available for it. I am open to buying a Tikka though if I can find one for a decent enough price.
How likely are you going to actually change a bolt face? If you are planning on doing that it might be better to go ai axmc or something along those lines.

Read this post. I try to keep it updated.

Tikka buying guide T3 thread #3268
Page 66. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-thread.6252615/post-7301418
 
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I am struggling with this decision myself.(Do I get the Origin that Rem700 compatible and allows for swappable bolt faces or do I get a prefab like a Tikka T3X) I am completely new to bolt action rifles (never shot one before) By default I always like things that are custom built because normally you can get higher quality parts and sometimes cheaper on par with prefab. But at the same time If it is not necessary to go full custom like that starting out then I am open to other options. I have been struggling with this decision for almost a week now haha. I am down a rabbit hole doing countless hours of research and comparing everything. What all do you use your Tikka for? Have you been able to get it sub MOA?
I pretty much said all I have to say about it in the first post I made. There is nothing I would buy an Origin over a Tikka for.

You get a complete rifle for the cost of an Origin action, and there's a great chance the factory tikka barrel will shoot sub moa with match grade factory ammo.

If you are chasing ALL THE accuracy, a custom barrel on a tikka will behave no different than a custom barrel on an Origin (or any other aftermarket action for that matter)