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Here's a 5/8x24 thread protector.
I may tweak the thread offsets a bit later to make it a bit tighter but it seems to work good enough as is.
I may tweak the thread offsets a bit later to make it a bit tighter but it seems to work good enough as is.
Any of you rocky mountain region boys wanna rock your ai let's go suppressed only with suppressors provided if you don't have one...
www.snipershide.com
Rifle Competition Events - Day Mountain Ranch Preston Idaho sep 7 2024 hunter match
Throwing this up here. I have no affiliation except I love the venue. Day Mountain Ranch Preston Idaho Hunter style match Sep 7th. They will let you shoot with any rifle over 16lbs you are just not in contention for trophies. Amazing venue and the location is one of the best I have shot...
www.snipershide.com
I'd go with you if I was still in the region. Sad face.Any of you rocky mountain region boys wanna rock your ai let's go suppressed only with suppressors provided if you don't have one...
Rifle Competition Events - Day Mountain Ranch Preston Idaho sep 7 2024 hunter match
Throwing this up here. I have no affiliation except I love the venue. Day Mountain Ranch Preston Idaho Hunter style match Sep 7th. They will let you shoot with any rifle over 16lbs you are just not in contention for trophies. Amazing venue and the location is one of the best I have shot...
I knew I was a poorDude, according to 1 = none you have 0 AXMC’s and -2 AXSR’s!
Double covered with axmc with mag and 308 bolt(not pictured)
I thought that was a savage for a second. Just weird seeing a non-AI here.
This is where I'm at. Can shoot tight all day long with FGMM 175gr, but then am all over the place with Hornady TAP ELD Precision 168gr.
But the tightest group I've shot to date was with the Hornady so, I've been immensely confused.
Hornady A-MAX (Black) I'd shoot if I needed something quick and cheap. Unfortunately it's not cheap and FGMM is cheaper.
I'm gonna try the TAP ELD Precision ammo out to further distance and see what I get, and post results. A different barrel would fix a lot of my problems ... 1:12 twist really is dated.
I haven't been able to recreate this good shooting day with the Hornady TAP ELD since. Its important to note that this is with the 20" Lothar-Walther 1:12 4R barrel.
Federal GMM 175gr has been much more consistent, but simply doesn't have the reach that the TAP ELD Precision (or any Hornady ELD ammo) has with its greater BC.
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"Started from the bottom, now we're here. Started from the bottom now the whole team here" -Drake
I got my new ZCO mounted. AT-XC weighs right at 16lbs (without Dependabilt weights) as pictured.
I got my new ZCO mounted. AT-XC weighs right at 16lbs (without Dependabilt weights) as pictured.
No honest question. Cause I have a Raptar rail on my comp gas gun and people were saying it would be too high on thar versus the low pro mount.
This Reptilia mount gets it below the elevation turret. Easy to check your POA
I submit it will come down to personal preference of how much chin weld you need when using the red dot with a higher chin weld being required if the optic is higher and said higher chin weld possibly effecting recoil management.
I just got one of these, and it is perfect for a USO FDN scope as the base of the DeltaPoint Pro, when mounted, is the same height as the USO FDN elevation turret. As such, the red dot rides pretty low and I am able to achieve a sufficient chin weld.
-Stan
What’s better than owning the best rifle in the world? How about owning 2 of them 
Before:
After:
Top rifle. Pictured with the OG on the bottom
260 Rem configuration with WSM to come
Before:
After:
Top rifle. Pictured with the OG on the bottom
260 Rem configuration with WSM to come
can the WSM conversion use the AW mags, albeit with reduced capacity, or must new magazines be used?
I use accurate mags for both the 223 and wsm/saum conversions
This is my plan as well. The wsm will be a winter project as I’m so busy right now and will be until December. I still have to finish testing the 260 rem barrel and get loads for that.
Open the bolt face (black canyon), 300 WSM Barrel and the 7 round I think it is magazine and I’ll be good to go. Will it feed the wsm? Only time will tell but I’m willing to have a single shot wsm capable AI in short action if it comes to it. It will be shot primarily in 260 anyways. Also have my 18” 308 Bartlein in the safe should I decide to play with that later on as well.
I wanted the second AI to be more of the play/switch barrel setup. Where the other is always setup with the 20” 308 barrel. That’s the deer management setup and I prefer not to mess with it
I bought the AT first. Took a journey through the AXMC, ATX and back to another thumbhole AT. It’s my preference
So, this is used for two purposes: close rapid engagements that just "have to hit" a man sized target, or more importantly and for our purposes, simply for rapid indexing of the target.
As long as you can see over the turret to see the dot, the lower the better. All I'm doing with any of mine is popping my head up, lining the red dot as close to where I think the target is, then dropping my head down to the reticle in the hopes that I'm much closer on-target than I would be trying to hunt for it without, or having to take the time to dial magnification back, then dial forward again.
Some folks can index on-target just fine with only the top of the turret as a guide. Unfortunately I'm too OCD and have found the red dot to be the most effective means for me to get on-target as expediently and as efficiently as possible. My red dot is also zero'd for 100 yards and have enough confidence in it that in a rapid "surprise" engagement I would at least be hitting something.
That's it. That's all its for: to get you on- or close to on-target. Just remember height over bore when shooting from 10-50 yards with it, and the heigh t isn't going to make a big difference. Just don't expect the red dot to perfectly align with whatever you're aiming at out at disdance on the reticle. Its just a guide, nothing more.
My bolt is originally from trophyhunter and my barrel is from spr but yes it feeds fine from the 7rd. Haven’t tried smaller ones.
I originally told myself I would “save” money by getting a switch barrel Ai with only needing one action one scope. Yeah that didn’t really pan out lol
I have left and right handed ATs dressed entirely in black thumbhole plastic, with Kahles k624i scopes having consecutive serial numbers despite having been bought from different dealers two years apart.
All hail the AI Thumbhole Stock Master Race!!!
Correct, in the other thread Greg said he had 2 or 3 223 bolt heads left and after that he's probably done. He said the conversions need too much fiddling to get to run.
Greg's post here: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...-223-conversion-working.6945653/post-11739135
I liked my 223 conversion when I had it, but it didn't run as well as my dedicated 223 build on a custom action, so I sold it, even though I had been wanting a 223 conversion for my AI for years. Sometimes I regret selling it, sometimes I don't.
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Question for those of you who have chopped barrels…
I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.
If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?
Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?
And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit.
I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.
If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?
Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?
And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit.
Question for those of you who have chopped barrels…
I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.
If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?
Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?
And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit.
Like 0 perf difference between a 14.5 and a 16......
Question for those of you who have chopped barrels…
I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.
If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?
Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?
And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit.
I chose to buy a proof prefit for my 6.5 and had it cut and profiled to 18" for an AEM5-30. The stock barrel was just too nice IMO to cut the length down and the proof was the right price. If you have expert voice or qualify Proof barrels for the AI are on there.
Personally I'd just go 16" so that you're not ending up with the timing being off a few degrees left / right and it driving you crazy....plus who knows you might change muzzle devices or want to salvage that one once your barrel is shot out.
Pin and weld 14.5” is carbine stuff. I’d just stick with 16” or longer where maneuverability and vehicle egress aren’t primary concerns.
Who did your profiling? I assume collarless?
I sent it off to Allegheny Arms and went collarless. I think turn around was 1...1.5 weeks? He did a phenomenal job and even cloned the proof serial and markings onto the barrel where it's covered by the can. Sorry about the crap picture....my phone kinda sucks and I pulled it off my instagram since the weather isn't great right now
I’m gonna have to live vicariously through you until I can get a replacement
I’ve been saying the same thing for years. Maybe someone will offer me a salty post 14 AX with the 13” hand guard for my PVS 26. I’d even settle with a yucky PB one
Question for those of you who have chopped barrels…
I’m thinking of either hacking down my AXSR’s 24” 308 barrel down to 14.5 or 16 -OR- buying a proof SS prefit 308 and having it cut to either 14.5 or 16.
If I do 14.5, I’ll obviously have to do the pin/weld of the brake…which I would want timed. I don’t want to send off the rifle so do you think a black marker indicating the timing for the smith would suffice?
Or do ya think that 16 is just better for the lack of hassle and ease of cleaning the crown?
And I’ll obviously 5axis dremel my forend down to let it fit.
Coincidentally I have a 17.25" 6.5creedmoor barrel on order for my AXSR to run with a TBAC Ultra 9 which will then sit slightly recessed inside the handguard. That is the shortest that would fit without busting out the Dremel.
I do have a shorty 16" 308 bolt action and I don't I'd give up brake/can flexibility just to go as a short as possible with it.
Don’t forget the $900 S&B too broI’ve been saying the same thing for years. Maybe someone will offer me a salty post 14 AX with the 13” hand guard for my PVS 26. I’d even settle with a yucky PB one
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