BS. It indicates an exception to the prior statement. Perhaps review your understand of logic. And there is not a lie anywhere in my post.
By saying so you are calling me a liar…I think you owe an apology.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
BS. It indicates an exception to the prior statement. Perhaps review your understand of logic. And there is not a lie anywhere in my post.
By saying so you are calling me a liar…I think you owe an apology.
My M14/M1G rifle rack. I have to finish the lower support of the rack. Which all the wood work should be done this week. Then just hand rubbing the oil into it with several coats of Minwax Tung Oil. Also will have hangers for my slings etc... for the top rack I made a steel hanger that the rear sling swivel/loop hooks over... mounted that to a custom board made from fancy walunt. Rifles hang upside down.Same here. After I get patches like that, I dry, then oil the barrel.
Grease the bolt, and all of my rifles are stored muzzle down.
Run patches of Hoppes down it till they come out clean. Once clean a light coat of Hoppes. Will protect as good as any oil and will keep cleaning as well.How much to clean and what to clean with are two good questions
I shot 22 rounds out of my man bun 6.5 yesterday (barrel was clean prior with Bore Tech)
I might not shoot it again for another month
Should I clean it? and if so with what?
I think I might just run a couple patches with rem oil on them and let it be, don't want to over clean, but the thought of crap from 22 rounds sitting in my custom barrel for a month or so bothers me.
Run patches of Hoppes down it till they come out clean.
is the barrel like a factory ruger or remington barrel? if so, yes clean it. over clean factory barrels especially at first, they're so darn rough. took me like 500-800 rounds to get my savage 22 bore more stable. centerfire take a couple hundred rounds ime.Hoppes what?
#9 gun cleaning solvent or powder solvent
or
Lubricating Oil (1605) or Elite Gun oil or CLP or lube oil (1004)
or
I see this one now that I am looking - Moisture Displacing Lubricant
Hoppes has too many products these days, makes my head hurt.
Thanks
AK owners shoot 5moa groups and are satisfied.AK owners be like....."what is this silliness talk ....rifle is fine ,clean when piston looks like chia pet or before fearless leader shows up "
That is a work of art.My M14/M1G rifle rack. I have to finish the lower support of the rack. Which all the wood work should be done this week. Then just hand rubbing the oil into it with several coats of Minwax Tung Oil. Also will have hangers for my slings etc... for the top rack I made a steel hanger that the rear sling swivel/loop hooks over... mounted that to a custom board made from fancy walunt. Rifles hang upside down.
View attachment 8483158
My barrel, MY CHOICE!!That's none of your damn business, thank you very much!
It's my barrel, I'll clean it as much as I want!
Regular #9....Hoppes what?
#9 gun cleaning solvent or powder solvent
or
Lubricating Oil (1605) or Elite Gun oil or CLP or lube oil (1004)
or
I see this one now that I am looking - Moisture Displacing Lubricant
Hoppes has too many products these days, makes my head hurt.
Thanks
Wait a mi Uteclean my Sig 9mm every 100 to 200 rounds. Wet patch with #9, let it sit for awhile while I clean the slide and frame. Run a bronze brush for a few strokes, then another wet patch and dry patches until clean
I do...I'm also not much fun at parties.Wait a mi Ute
You clean your pistols ?
I’ve got thousands of rounds on my G lock
Wonder how many of those top dogs pay for their own barrels. And how many will run a barrel longer than a single season.
What are you using to clean?How often do you clean ? Suppressed ?
FNG says I am waiting too long at 250+ rounds “
Biggest thing is keeping up with it and not letting the fouling/barrel get away from you.
I’m in the camp of not letting it go past a 100ish rounds in between cleanings.
If I shot a match today and put 70 rounds on it… I’m cleaning it that night before putting another 70 more rounds on it the next day.
You let it away and you can be chasing your tail.
Some calibers are easier on barrels than others… 6CM is not easy on the sticks.”
View attachment 8479953
Why Hoppes? What’s your method of soaking the barrel? Why store muzzle down?I shoot infrequently now.
Knowing they will be in the safe awhile they get about 8 hours of soaking with Hoppes and frequent patching before finishing with a light coat of kroil before going back to the safe muzzle down.
Hoppes because it smells manly and it works as far as my patches tell.What are you using to clean?
Why Hoppes? What’s your method of soaking the barrel? Why store muzzle down?
That last statement is why I’ve always found it interesting that pretty much every weapon cradle, storage rack, whatever you want to call it, in existence is designed to store with the muzzle up.Hoppes because it smells manly and it works as far as my patches tell.
Soaking consists of sloppy wet patches with enough shit on them I’m hoping some part defies gravity long enough before drooling out the barrel.
Bore down because if I gots oil draining into something I’d rather it be my bore protector rather than the action, stick or trigger.
Wipe out and patch outWhat are you using to clean?
Unsure.That last statement is why I’ve always found it interesting that pretty much every weapon cradle, storage rack, whatever you want to call it, in existence is designed to store with the muzzle up.
Plugging it and doing the aerosol stuff or the liquid and a patch?Wipe out and patch out
That last statement is why I’ve always found it interesting that pretty much every weapon cradle, storage rack, whatever you want to call it, in existence is designed to store with the muzzle up.
Unsure.
Not the first time everyone else has been wrong except for me.
Aerosol no plugPlugging it and doing the aerosol stuff or the liquid and a patch?
I’ve got a vault with a system designed to either hang stuff or store muzzle up. Alternating would be nice but it’s solely designed for muzzle up. It’s one of those wall systems with the cradle for the stock on the bottom. You can hang horizontally but obviously you lose a lot of space that way.Most people don’t have muzzle protectors for their rifles, so they store them muzzle up in fear that they’ll screw up the muzzle on the floor of their storage cabinet.
But, I read many years ago that oil running back off of the metal parts can weaken a wooden stock over time. Probably not a big concern for composite stocks or aluminum chassis.
Then again, someone wrote that storing a rifle muzzle up with a suppressor attached can allow for condensation to affect the crown. Idk. Hard for me to rationalize that, but something to think on.
I’ve found that alternating muzzle up and muzzle down allows me to stuff a few more rifles in a storage cabinet.
Then there are two of us right people in the world. I store muzzle down for the same reason as you. And I am not worried about damaging the brake (all my rifles have a brake, except for the M4 A3 and it has a bird cage.) I buy stuff that is made for men.Unsure.
Not the first time everyone else has been wrong except for me.
AK 's are cleaned before fearless leader shows upFull bore rifles are cleaned every time they are shot, rimfire are cleaned when felt necessary.
I can’t believe this thread has gone on this long and nobody has clarified carbon vs copper. Half are talking about cleaning carbon and the other half copper. I clean the carbon after 250ish rounds. I copper strip the barrel if/when the groups open up.
Wipe out and patch out
A few years ago when I was shooting 6.5 CM (140's at 2880), In 2500 rounds I cleaned that barrel a grand total of 3 times, with maybe 28 patches in total. It shot .5-.8" groups and I was fine with it. Clean after fouling it would shoot .3-.5
Now I've upped my cleaning regimen and I clean about every 300-500 rounds, depending on what's going on. I am definitely not overly anal about cleaning.