CZ 457

Gen2's are available in black! https://mdttac.com/acc-chassis-system/

Capture.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mark_Dorman
Do you know if you can buy/use the Elite Buttstock on the premier gen 2?

Thinking of taking a 20.5" Varmit and dropping it into a ACC premier 2 body with ACC elite butstock?

It looks like the same interface. I don't see why MDT would have changed their buttstock mounting system on this vs the ACC Gen 1 and Elite. Looks like their normal XTN Interface. I'm sure @MDT_Josh / @MDT_OFFICIAL could confirm. You would need the MDT Vertical Grip - Premier With Connector Bar to use the Connector Bar obviously. You would also lose the weight savings of the lighter rear in doing this though.

1724185841536.png

1724185833597.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDT_Josh
I spoke to Josh Mdt and he confirmed these should work together

ACC Premeir Gen2 Chassis (Buy from MDT or whoever)
ACC Elite Buttstock from Europtic
Elite Connecting Bar, Gen 2 Weights, Adjustable Mag Catch
CZ Varmint MTR, A419 scope mount, few mags, Timney Trigger

Sell the MTR Stock and the ACC Premier Gen 2 Stock

For less than $2500 (with discount codes/prs/ect) You can have a CZ MTR with a Timney in a ACC Elite Chassis ready to add scope and go to work.
 
I spoke to Josh Mdt and he confirmed these should work together

ACC Premeir Gen2 Chassis (Buy from MDT or whoever)
ACC Elite Buttstock from Europtic
Elite Connecting Bar, Gen 2 Weights, Adjustable Mag Catch
CZ Varmint MTR, A419 scope mount, few mags, Timney Trigger

Sell the MTR Stock and the ACC Premier Gen 2 Stock

For less than $2500 (with discount codes/prs/ect) You can have a CZ MTR with a Timney in a ACC Elite Chassis ready to add scope and go to work.

Sounds like a sweet setup. The MTR barrel is going to look comically skinny in that chassis, but it should work great. You'll definitely want some weights for balance until you can get a fatter barrel. Fortunately there are a lot more options these days than there used to be.

You could also just get a cheap 457 (synthetic or something) and just get an aftermarket barrel to start off. But you'll have to wait a few weeks for almost any good barrel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDT_Josh
It looks like the same interface. I don't see why MDT would have changed their buttstock mounting system on this vs the ACC Gen 1 and Elite. Looks like their normal XTN Interface. I'm sure @MDT_Josh / @MDT_OFFICIAL could confirm. You would need the MDT Vertical Grip - Premier With Connector Bar to use the Connector Bar obviously. You would also lose the weight savings of the lighter rear in doing this though.

View attachment 8484135
View attachment 8484134
Can confirm, this is our XTN interface and we wanted to retain the features to ensure that our SRS-X Elite buttstock and Elite Grip with connector bar would work!
 
Do you know if you can buy/use the Elite Buttstock on the premier gen 2?

Thinking of taking a 20.5" Varmit and dropping it into a ACC premier 2 body with ACC elite butstock?
Yep, the SRS-X Elite buttstock will fit on the Premier Gen2.

-Paige
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mark_Dorman
Well lesson learned with my 457. Accuracy started getting worse over the last 500 rounds or so. It might be good for a couple of 10 shot strings, but then groups would open back up. Thought maybe it was my ammo...had been running mostly Tac 22 and SK HV Match, but broke into a new lot of the Tac so thought that might be it. Tried some fancy stuff...Center X, Tenex and SK Match. Results were pretty ho hum

I had been following the barrel seasoning methodology and only using C4 to clean the barrel since day 1. I use a silicone plug, stuff it in the chamber, close the bolt, put an aluminum rod in the bore and fill it with C4 for a couple of days, then patch it out. Run a couple of dry patches, then a few wet, a few dry, etc until clean.

CZ bores are tight, and my 22 cal rod was no exception. So I would use my CF .17 cal rod to clean...that's basically what started my trouble unbeknownst to me. Because I was using that rod, I had to use a .20 cal jag b/c I didn't have an adapter to use the .22 cal jag. Didn't figure it was a big deal since the bore was tight and didn't want to force it. So after this last range trip I finally got the adapter and tried the .22 cal jag. Did the whole soak thing, but with the 22 cal jag, patches just never stopped being dirty. After awhile it felt like I wasn't gaining so I did another soak for a couple of days, patched it out with the 22 cal jag again and same thing...endless dirty patches. 3rd soak...same thing. WTF. Stuck the bore scope down there and it was patchy as hell with carbon. Could see metal in some spots, fouling everywhere else. So I tried various solvents, including CLR against my better judgement, tons of dirty patches, but no major gains on the scope. Finally got some JB Bore Brite and took it back down to bare metal.

Apparently the 20 cal jag wasn't tight enough to actually remove the carbon fouling from previous cleanings and it just kept building. I always scoped it after cleaning, but for no particular reason I always scoped it after I ran my last patch with oil down it for storage. So all that fouling looked shiny and I just assumed it was seasoning.

Hoping to get it out to the range next week and see if it shoots better or if I fucked it up good with the JB. Worst case, I ordered one of those L3i drop in barrels, not because of this, but because why not for $330. I'll probably just abandon the seasoning method and just take it back down to metal with a rimfire blend from here on out.
 
Dimefox, Did you ever use a brush along with the C4 ? I just run a nylon brush thru a few times - 5 or more 'round trips' - and all but the Carbon ting comes out quickly, no need for repeated 'soaks'. The C-ring in the Leade does need soaking for 1/2 hour or more and even a brass brush Just in that area. And after that routine I run 90% Alcohol patches to remove all the solvent, then Mobil-1 patch to lube for storage. I save oil after an change by inverting the gal-jug over a container for a day or so, and get 1-2 oz. My boss at Shell station in the 60s would save oil from cans and every day or two got a 'free' oil change - which he would charge Full price for. Bent ethics but good knowledge. A Bar manager I knew also did that with 'last of the bottle' of whiskies -it was OK in a mix, HA !
 
PS - I clean ALL my rifles that way, even the plinkers. My 457-VMTR and 455 do well with all SK ammo, preferring the SK-Rifle Match over others. I use SK Magazine for fouling a clean barrel for 5-10 shots b4 'for real' shooting.
 
Dimefox, Did you ever use a brush along with the C4 ? I just run a nylon brush thru a few times - 5 or more 'round trips' - and all but the Carbon ting comes out quickly, no need for repeated 'soaks'. The C-ring in the Leade does need soaking for 1/2 hour or more and even a brass brush Just in that area. And after that routine I run 90% Alcohol patches to remove all the solvent, then Mobil-1 patch to lube for storage. I save oil after an change by inverting the gal-jug over a container for a day or so, and get 1-2 oz. My boss at Shell station in the 60s would save oil from cans and every day or two got a 'free' oil change - which he would charge Full price for. Bent ethics but good knowledge. A Bar manager I knew also did that with 'last of the bottle' of whiskies -it was OK in a mix, HA !
I only brushed sparingly until I got the 5-40 to 8-32 adapter. I only had a 22 cal brush that would fit the 22 cal rod. Normally every cleaning cycle I'd ginger careful pass it through the bore a couple of times, but given how tight it was I wouldn't make a lot of passes or be aggressive. I kept thinking I needed to get the adapter or something different so I could use a brush, but I normally forgot once I was out of the basement. It wasn't until I got the adapter that I could brush, and at that point it was too far fouled.
 
Anyone have a list of the chassis weights? Looking for the lightest chassis for a CZ 457 with a reasonable price.

Thinking of making something similar to the Christensen Arms MPR but with a cz457.
 
Last edited:
Welp got mine back to the range after the JB enema. Not great. This is the first 80 rounds. Put 300 through it all told of Tac 22..the last 200 or so were at steel. I need to dig around and see if I have some older targets to compare but this is pretty bad from where it was. I'll admit it could be a shitty lot of Tac 22. I forgot to pack the SK HV Match to compare. Going to check torque on the Bravo and also rings and bases

Edit--stupid picture is sideways...you get the drift. Those couple random shots in the middle were me trying to shoot a fly
 

Attachments

  • CZ.jpg
    CZ.jpg
    251.7 KB · Views: 39
@MDT_Josh When the left-handed version of the ACC Premier Gen 2 is released, will it be the same inlet offerings? R700, Tikka, CZ? I have a lefty 457 waiting for me at my LGS and would really like to make it my new comp gun with all the options.
Sorry for the late reply, but I haven't yet got the "go ahead" to make ANY LH inlets for the Premier Gen2 :( This will most likely change over time, but PLEASE request inlets that you would like to see here as we are using this for a lot of new development: https://mdttac.com/product-request/
 
  • Like
Reactions: darth_ritis
Hoping to get it out to the range next week and see if it shoots better or if I fucked it up good with the JB. Worst case, I ordered one of those L3i drop in barrels, not because of this, but because why not for $330. I'll probably just abandon the seasoning method and just take it back down to metal with a rimfire blend from here on out.
What's with this 'seasoning' stuff? I wipe all my factory & custom 22RF bores out with a few patches of Ed's Red every time I shoot any of my rifles - whether it was only a couple of rounds to kill a rattlesnake or 100+rds after a match. Too many rifles live here to keep track of how many rounds have been fired through each one, so I don't kid myself about being able to do so. Very seldom do I find a carbon ring in the leade with the Hawkeye borescope, and I'm not shy about using a bronze bore brush if I feel any leading when putting that 1st patch through - which usually also removes carbon while getting the leading out. That's undoubtedly because I don't let crap build up in my bores in the first place.
 
What's with this 'seasoning' stuff? I wipe all my factory & custom 22RF bores out with a few patches of Ed's Red every time I shoot any of my rifles - whether it was only a couple of rounds to kill a rattlesnake or 100+rds after a match. Too many rifles live here to keep track of how many rounds have been fired through each one, so I don't kid myself about being able to do so. Very seldom do I find a carbon ring in the leade with the Hawkeye borescope, and I'm not shy about using a bronze bore brush if I feel any leading when putting that 1st patch through - which usually also removes carbon while getting the leading out. That's undoubtedly because I don't let crap build up in my bores in the first place.

Greg Roman explains it well in this video (link will jump you to it at 31:12):
 
What's with this 'seasoning' stuff? I wipe all my factory & custom 22RF bores out with a few patches of Ed's Red every time I shoot any of my rifles - whether it was only a couple of rounds to kill a rattlesnake or 100+rds after a match. Too many rifles live here to keep track of how many rounds have been fired through each one, so I don't kid myself about being able to do so. Very seldom do I find a carbon ring in the leade with the Hawkeye borescope, and I'm not shy about using a bronze bore brush if I feel any leading when putting that 1st patch through - which usually also removes carbon while getting the leading out. That's undoubtedly because I don't let crap build up in my bores in the first place.
Basically the vid above explains it. However, I don't count rounds on any gun. I treat them like my ass...if I use it, I clean it.

I went the seasoning route because I figured those guys know a hell of a lot more than me. Prior to putting together this CZ I just occasionally plinked around with a cheap savage 17HMR and some old winchester lever 22's.

Really I don't believe the seasoning method was the reason my gun went south. It was operator error and me using an under sized jag to clean. My issue was probably going to happen regardless of the solvent.
 
I’m on the fence between three chassis, will mostly be using the rifle for PRS22, will run a 24in l3i 1.18” barrel and would like to keep extra weights to a minimum

- MDT ACC GEN 2
- Vision Pro
- Grey Birch

Do you know if the Grey Birch or Vision Pro will need modifications to fit the barrel? Most CZ chassis weren't designed to accommodate that large a diameter, specifically at the front action screw area. The MDT specifically updated the inlet design of the ACC Gen 2 for larger 1.180-1.250 barrels.
 
Last edited:
Do you know if the Grey Birch or Vision Pro will need modifications to fit the barrel? Most CZ chassis weren't designed to accommodate that large a diameter, specifically at the front action screw area. The MDT specifically updated the inlet design of the ACC Gen 2 for larger 1.180-1.250 barrels.
Mine is running a .900 Lilja so no issues there. Somebody here, I forget who, just did a 1.250 modacam build on the Grey Birch...the forend channel accomodates the barrel but he said slight clearance work was necessary to the receiver just forward of the action.
 
Mine is running a .900 Lilja so no issues there. Somebody here, I forget who, just did a 1.250 modacam build on the Grey Birch...the forend channel accomodates the barrel but he said slight clearance work was necessary to the receiver just forward of the action.

That's the part I was concerned about. That little area right in front of the front action screw is the potential issue on almost any chassis. Aside from the ACC gen 2, I didn't know of any chassis that accounted for 1.180+ barrels. I think most will need that slight modification. I know this was discussed quite a bit in one of the threads here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDT_Josh