significantly less than dpg for my case. I will save a couple thousand doing the CZ route as opposed to a full custom I think and he's done several 457s, I was assuming they're all nitrided.
CZ 457
- Thread starter A-Rob
- Start date
Interesting...like you said, for what you're shooting I wouldn't imagine the SD and ES would be that bad.
More build pics from Modacam. It’s almost there. He’s putting on some final touches. Looks like she’s a shooter.
Veeeery nice!! If I may ask, what chassis is that and is it ambi or available as left-handed?
I would put in the work to find a lefty 457 if I could put it in a decent stock/chassis.
It’s a Grey Birch La Chassis with the 16” rail. For a heavy barreled CZ I would recommend against it. The chassis had to be modified to clear the 1.25” barrel which in turn made the front way too flexible. You’ll have to reinforce the front end which mine is currently under the knife for before it heads out the door. That said I don’t think they have a LH model. I could be wrong.
First time poster.
Testing out my new LRP in the backyard.
Scope Vortex Viper 6.5 x 20 x 50 on Burris sig Zee rings. UTG 360 Bipod. The rest is bone stock straight outta the box.
Tested a few different ammos but the Eley Tenex won it for me @ 50 meters
Only put a small handfull of rounds through her and need to make a few adjustments to trigger, but for now its doing what its supposed to.
Testing out my new LRP in the backyard.
Scope Vortex Viper 6.5 x 20 x 50 on Burris sig Zee rings. UTG 360 Bipod. The rest is bone stock straight outta the box.
Tested a few different ammos but the Eley Tenex won it for me @ 50 meters
Only put a small handfull of rounds through her and need to make a few adjustments to trigger, but for now its doing what its supposed to.
Grey Birch makes it in a LH version. As 021411 pointed out the 16in forend is very flexible. I installed a 1/2x1x12in brass plate into the channe land sandwiched it with a generic 16in arca rail underneath. Stiffened it up nicely and balances extremely well with a 21in Lilja barrel. With the lack of choices for a LH457 chassis it's a viable option with a little work to the forend. Other than that it's a very solid well machined chassis.
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PDC makes a nice lefty chassis. I have the Grey Birch on a Ruger CSC 1022 and love it. I don’t. Price the flex when I’m shooting so it didn’t matter.
Speaking of.. Modacam made a small steel piece bolted on the inside that bridges the forend with the action part of the chassis. I also have a 17” universal rail from Area 419 installed. He said it stiffed it up by a lot.
She is definitely thick. The barreled action made it in yesterday. I had Jonathan send the chassis separately because of my distrust of having too many eggs in one basket with the postal service. The chassis is arriving Tuesday.
Although I already had a Timney trigger installed I wanted to try out a Jard. After tweaking the trigger with the middle weight spring installed I have it set to about 7 oz. There’s no discernible creep however there is definitely overtravel built in. If you’ve ever shot a Bix’n Andy trigger then you’ll know how it feels.
Here she finally is in all her glory. As pictured she weighs 17 lbs 4 oz and is well balanced with and without the bipod.
Quick and dirty shakedown with some CX I had. I know I can do better but was on a time crunch. I was focused on shooting something else and prepping for a match.
Their Backorders are always way overstated. I would place the order.
Do you know if you can buy/use the Elite Buttstock on the premier gen 2?
Thinking of taking a 20.5" Varmit and dropping it into a ACC premier 2 body with ACC elite butstock?
Thinking of taking a 20.5" Varmit and dropping it into a ACC premier 2 body with ACC elite butstock?
It looks like the same interface. I don't see why MDT would have changed their buttstock mounting system on this vs the ACC Gen 1 and Elite. Looks like their normal XTN Interface. I'm sure @MDT_Josh / @MDT_OFFICIAL could confirm. You would need the MDT Vertical Grip - Premier With Connector Bar to use the Connector Bar obviously. You would also lose the weight savings of the lighter rear in doing this though.
I spoke to Josh Mdt and he confirmed these should work together
ACC Premeir Gen2 Chassis (Buy from MDT or whoever)
ACC Elite Buttstock from Europtic
Elite Connecting Bar, Gen 2 Weights, Adjustable Mag Catch
CZ Varmint MTR, A419 scope mount, few mags, Timney Trigger
Sell the MTR Stock and the ACC Premier Gen 2 Stock
For less than $2500 (with discount codes/prs/ect) You can have a CZ MTR with a Timney in a ACC Elite Chassis ready to add scope and go to work.
ACC Premeir Gen2 Chassis (Buy from MDT or whoever)
ACC Elite Buttstock from Europtic
Elite Connecting Bar, Gen 2 Weights, Adjustable Mag Catch
CZ Varmint MTR, A419 scope mount, few mags, Timney Trigger
Sell the MTR Stock and the ACC Premier Gen 2 Stock
For less than $2500 (with discount codes/prs/ect) You can have a CZ MTR with a Timney in a ACC Elite Chassis ready to add scope and go to work.
Sounds like a sweet setup. The MTR barrel is going to look comically skinny in that chassis, but it should work great. You'll definitely want some weights for balance until you can get a fatter barrel. Fortunately there are a lot more options these days than there used to be.
You could also just get a cheap 457 (synthetic or something) and just get an aftermarket barrel to start off. But you'll have to wait a few weeks for almost any good barrel.
Can confirm, this is our XTN interface and we wanted to retain the features to ensure that our SRS-X Elite buttstock and Elite Grip with connector bar would work!
MDT_OFFICIAL
Official Account of Modular Driven Technologies
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Minuteman
Just received my Prem Gen 2 this week and am super impressed with the improvements over the Gen 1.
Fore end is super rigid and loving that magwell cutout for mag changes.
But now yall got me debating that whole elite buttock swap
Fore end is super rigid and loving that magwell cutout for mag changes.
But now yall got me debating that whole elite buttock swap
Well lesson learned with my 457. Accuracy started getting worse over the last 500 rounds or so. It might be good for a couple of 10 shot strings, but then groups would open back up. Thought maybe it was my ammo...had been running mostly Tac 22 and SK HV Match, but broke into a new lot of the Tac so thought that might be it. Tried some fancy stuff...Center X, Tenex and SK Match. Results were pretty ho hum
I had been following the barrel seasoning methodology and only using C4 to clean the barrel since day 1. I use a silicone plug, stuff it in the chamber, close the bolt, put an aluminum rod in the bore and fill it with C4 for a couple of days, then patch it out. Run a couple of dry patches, then a few wet, a few dry, etc until clean.
CZ bores are tight, and my 22 cal rod was no exception. So I would use my CF .17 cal rod to clean...that's basically what started my trouble unbeknownst to me. Because I was using that rod, I had to use a .20 cal jag b/c I didn't have an adapter to use the .22 cal jag. Didn't figure it was a big deal since the bore was tight and didn't want to force it. So after this last range trip I finally got the adapter and tried the .22 cal jag. Did the whole soak thing, but with the 22 cal jag, patches just never stopped being dirty. After awhile it felt like I wasn't gaining so I did another soak for a couple of days, patched it out with the 22 cal jag again and same thing...endless dirty patches. 3rd soak...same thing. WTF. Stuck the bore scope down there and it was patchy as hell with carbon. Could see metal in some spots, fouling everywhere else. So I tried various solvents, including CLR against my better judgement, tons of dirty patches, but no major gains on the scope. Finally got some JB Bore Brite and took it back down to bare metal.
Apparently the 20 cal jag wasn't tight enough to actually remove the carbon fouling from previous cleanings and it just kept building. I always scoped it after cleaning, but for no particular reason I always scoped it after I ran my last patch with oil down it for storage. So all that fouling looked shiny and I just assumed it was seasoning.
Hoping to get it out to the range next week and see if it shoots better or if I fucked it up good with the JB. Worst case, I ordered one of those L3i drop in barrels, not because of this, but because why not for $330. I'll probably just abandon the seasoning method and just take it back down to metal with a rimfire blend from here on out.
I had been following the barrel seasoning methodology and only using C4 to clean the barrel since day 1. I use a silicone plug, stuff it in the chamber, close the bolt, put an aluminum rod in the bore and fill it with C4 for a couple of days, then patch it out. Run a couple of dry patches, then a few wet, a few dry, etc until clean.
CZ bores are tight, and my 22 cal rod was no exception. So I would use my CF .17 cal rod to clean...that's basically what started my trouble unbeknownst to me. Because I was using that rod, I had to use a .20 cal jag b/c I didn't have an adapter to use the .22 cal jag. Didn't figure it was a big deal since the bore was tight and didn't want to force it. So after this last range trip I finally got the adapter and tried the .22 cal jag. Did the whole soak thing, but with the 22 cal jag, patches just never stopped being dirty. After awhile it felt like I wasn't gaining so I did another soak for a couple of days, patched it out with the 22 cal jag again and same thing...endless dirty patches. 3rd soak...same thing. WTF. Stuck the bore scope down there and it was patchy as hell with carbon. Could see metal in some spots, fouling everywhere else. So I tried various solvents, including CLR against my better judgement, tons of dirty patches, but no major gains on the scope. Finally got some JB Bore Brite and took it back down to bare metal.
Apparently the 20 cal jag wasn't tight enough to actually remove the carbon fouling from previous cleanings and it just kept building. I always scoped it after cleaning, but for no particular reason I always scoped it after I ran my last patch with oil down it for storage. So all that fouling looked shiny and I just assumed it was seasoning.
Hoping to get it out to the range next week and see if it shoots better or if I fucked it up good with the JB. Worst case, I ordered one of those L3i drop in barrels, not because of this, but because why not for $330. I'll probably just abandon the seasoning method and just take it back down to metal with a rimfire blend from here on out.
Dimefox, Did you ever use a brush along with the C4 ? I just run a nylon brush thru a few times - 5 or more 'round trips' - and all but the Carbon ting comes out quickly, no need for repeated 'soaks'. The C-ring in the Leade does need soaking for 1/2 hour or more and even a brass brush Just in that area. And after that routine I run 90% Alcohol patches to remove all the solvent, then Mobil-1 patch to lube for storage. I save oil after an change by inverting the gal-jug over a container for a day or so, and get 1-2 oz. My boss at Shell station in the 60s would save oil from cans and every day or two got a 'free' oil change - which he would charge Full price for. Bent ethics but good knowledge. A Bar manager I knew also did that with 'last of the bottle' of whiskies -it was OK in a mix, HA !
PS - I clean ALL my rifles that way, even the plinkers. My 457-VMTR and 455 do well with all SK ammo, preferring the SK-Rifle Match over others. I use SK Magazine for fouling a clean barrel for 5-10 shots b4 'for real' shooting.
can we order a stock with the COLOR,SCHEME OF MRS WOMFAT PLEASE
Jeff
VISA STANDING BY
can wait a month or 2 for delivery
I only brushed sparingly until I got the 5-40 to 8-32 adapter. I only had a 22 cal brush that would fit the 22 cal rod. Normally every cleaning cycle I'd ginger careful pass it through the bore a couple of times, but given how tight it was I wouldn't make a lot of passes or be aggressive. I kept thinking I needed to get the adapter or something different so I could use a brush, but I normally forgot once I was out of the basement. It wasn't until I got the adapter that I could brush, and at that point it was too far fouled.
I just ordered a grey birch. I haven’t received yet but they are light.
Welp got mine back to the range after the JB enema. Not great. This is the first 80 rounds. Put 300 through it all told of Tac 22..the last 200 or so were at steel. I need to dig around and see if I have some older targets to compare but this is pretty bad from where it was. I'll admit it could be a shitty lot of Tac 22. I forgot to pack the SK HV Match to compare. Going to check torque on the Bravo and also rings and bases
Edit--stupid picture is sideways...you get the drift. Those couple random shots in the middle were me trying to shoot a fly
Edit--stupid picture is sideways...you get the drift. Those couple random shots in the middle were me trying to shoot a fly
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Yep, still billet and screws in the top. Keeps it cheaper to manufacture and doesn't lose anythingSeparate ejector...
We have a pile of them here, hardware arrives tomorrow and then we can pack them up. Hopefully this week but next week shouldn't be hard to hit
Sorry for the late reply, but I haven't yet got the "go ahead" to make ANY LH inlets for the Premier Gen2
This will most likely change over time, but PLEASE request inlets that you would like to see here as we are using this for a lot of new development: https://mdttac.com/product-request/
