Tikka T3 Thread

I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
Yes, cock on opening like most modern bolt action rifles. If it is really tight, you may want to redo the bolt internal lubrication. I prefer a molebdenum filed grease like Molyslip.
 
I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
It could be just that, if your definition of “very stiff” is a lot lower than what I consider very stiff.

However, the bolt shroud could be dragging somewhere, including inside of it. Take it off and look for wear marks.

I have an aftermarket shroud and I had to do a lot of sanding to get it to work as well as the stock shroud.

We suffer for fashion lol
 
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I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
It's cocking the striker / firing pin in the bolt.
You can disassemble the bolt body and lightly polish the cocking ramp and the part of the cocking piece that rides on that ramp and then use some light gun grease to lubricate it to lighten the way it feels.
 
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I recently bought a new tikka that was very rough to cock, upon stripping the bolt I found this
IMG_4076.jpeg
 
I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
That is the reason.
 
I’m hoping any of yall can maybe help me answer a question about my Tikka T3. When I’m just cycling the bolt, it performs as smoothly as ever. When I dry fire, after pulling the trigger, my bolt becomes very stiff and hard to lift. On guy suggested that it’s because Tikka’s are cock on open actions. Is this the reason?
Probably, is this gun new to you or new in general?
 
It could be just that, if your definition of “very stiff” is a lot lower than what I consider very stiff.

However, the bolt shroud could be dragging somewhere, including inside of it. Take it off and look for wear marks.

I have an aftermarket shroud and I had to do a lot of sanding to get it to work as well as the stock shroud.

We suffer for fashion lol
My bolt shroud was not looking good. I ordered an aftermarket one.
 
Might be interesting if you said WHICH trigger is so outstanding , and more details might prove useful , like which trigger TAC 1 or the T3X, the breaking point of your outstanding trigger , How about length of 1st stage pull, if it's a TAC 1

I doubt anyone will bother to reply to you, you sound like a real dick
 
One data point:

Factory Tikka one stage
I bought the Lumley Tikka trigger springs kit. You get three springs, heavier (bit lighter than stock), medium, and light.

On my trigger, the light one was kinda too light (and I like relatively light triggers like 8oz/8oz Bix n Andy two-stagers). In fact, I had a couple negligent discharges into the range berm due to me not being as careful as I should’ve been.

So the light spring was too light for me, even for bench range use. But the Lumley medium was perfect for my stock single stage trigger.

Factory Tikka two stage
To be honest, trying different springs didn’t seem to make that big of a difference in the Super Varmint factory two stage. Seems like the new spring only affected the first stage.

I don’t really like that trigger anyway. It has a thin blade, a too-long first stage (and I like long first stages), and a too-heavy second stage break.

Gen 2 Midas two stage
Haven’t gotten enough trigger time on it yet! But seems promising. I can’t really comment intelligently at this point other than it feels nicer than the the factory Tikka two stage that comes with the Super Varmint, but not as nice as the Bix Tacsport Pro 8/8oz with the gator shoe.

Btw I think the SV two stage is identical to the Tac A1 trigger except it doesn’t have the three position safety. Which is dumb…why not include that?
 
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Has anyone tried turning a Tikka into a 6 Dasher and running it with the factory plastic mags? I'm thinking of building a light recoiling hyper accurate LAZERBEAM as a first hunting rifle for my kids to use. I don't want to build a rifle that requires any "persuasion" to feed rounds. My competition rifle is a Tikka Dasher and feeds great, but has the MDT mags in it and that's not going to be an option on this one. Looking for svelteness and lightweight.
 
To each his own, when someone posts something with NO details to the subject being discussed, either they didn't bother to read previous posts, they just felt the need to add their half a cents worth, or just like to see their thoughts in print ?
Is it worth it to replace the trigger or spring assembly on a Tikka? From my understanding, and from my own rifles, the triggers seem very competent.
 
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What do other Tikka owners think about the UPR stock for a general purpose use? Say if someone only wants to own 1 rifle and use it casually for hunting/range use? How much of an improvement is it over at CTR stock? My main complain with the CTR is the cheek riser height. Which, I'm sure can be fixed easily. But just exploring options without going full send.
 
Has anyone tried turning a Tikka into a 6 Dasher and running it with the factory plastic mags? I'm thinking of building a light recoiling hyper accurate LAZERBEAM as a first hunting rifle for my kids to use. I don't want to build a rifle that requires any "persuasion" to feed rounds. My competition rifle is a Tikka Dasher and feeds great, but has the MDT mags in it and that's not going to be an option on this one. Looking for svelteness and lightweight.
I've got a dasher on a Tikka but runs AICS mags. I've read of people having success using tikka 22-250 plastic mag.
The other option is Waters Rifleman mags out of Australia, they have a mag specifically for the BR case.

 
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I've got a dasher on a Tikka but runs AICS mags. I've read of people having success using tikka 22-250 plastic mag.
The other option is Waters Rifleman mags out of Australia, they have a mag specifically for the BR case.

Thanks for the info and the link
 
I have the T3 CTR 260Rem that Eurooptics had on their website headed my way. Going to see what all the hub bub is about. My, “I’m done buying guns for a few more years” went out the window when I saw the price. Next is going to be, which stock to get to replace the factory handle.
 
Had one, sold it. One of the few regrets I have. It was a lot of stock for the money.
What do other Tikka owners think about the UPR stock for a general purpose use? Say if someone only wants to own 1 rifle and use it casually for hunting/range use? How much of an improvement is it over at CTR stock? My main complain with the CTR is the cheek riser height. Which, I'm sure can be fixed easily. But just exploring options without going full send.
 
Question, has anyone had success with a tikka manners eh1 with mini chassis using after market bottom metal for standard tikka inlet (non ctr)? From what I’m reading some after market stocks combined with aftermarket bottom metal have had some fit and function issues.
 
I've been away from this site for awhile, and have lost track of all the updated stuff out there.

I'm wanting to pick up a new stock this Black Friday for a Tikka 6 Creed build, and I'm debating inlet style. It'll be hunting- centered, with alot of range trips and hopefully some NRL thrown in.

Not that long ago, there was a few vendors offering a CTR-to-AICS conversion bottom metal, and it seems that most if not all those products are off the market. Was there issues with them, or just no interest?

Also, what are the popular stock options by now, for my criteria? Currently looking at Grayboe Phoenix2. I want it as light as possible, tripod compatible, preferably 10rd capable (AICS), and $600ish.

Pic for interest. Thanks.

20230203_210931.jpg
 
Atlasworx Australia makes an Aics mag system that fits into standard CTR footprint stocks. They left the release lever a bit too long so that mag fit can be fine tuned which is sensible. Sitting in an Evolution stock from Ireland with flush fitting MDT 3 shot mag, other AICS also fit.

RTfVkYy.jpg


edi
Thanks for that. That's a great looking stock, unfortunately not in my budget right now. Is it possible to add arca plates for tripod use in that integral carbon fiber rail?

And you brought to mind some other questions. I wanted the bottom metal to work with the MDT 3rd mag and Tikka. I assume that's the magazine you were referring to? Do the polymer short action mags (6mm Creed) work with this bottom metal?

Thanks!
 
Not tried a 6mm Creed yet but have 308 and 6.5 CM which work well out of all MDT mags I have including the 3 shot MDT. That stock does not have an integrated rail, just flat bottom but can take various arca rails.
edi
How do you like that Evolution stock?
I've been eyeing them for a while, but have been sceptical to how rigid it is, as the weight seems almost unbelievably low.
 
How do you like that Evolution stock?
I've been eyeing them for a while, but have been sceptical to how rigid it is, as the weight seems almost unbelievably low.
I am somewhat involved with the technology of the product as well as user/tester and therefore won't go into details. The stock is made with complex technologies which might be different to what is there at the moment.
edi
 
I am somewhat involved with the technology of the product as well as user/tester and therefore won't go into details. The stock is made with complex technologies which might be different to what is there at the moment.
edi
They're already for sale, why can't you say how rigid it is?
 
They're already for sale, why can't you say how rigid it is?

They are very rigid and strong, have a double monocoque design. No milling involved. Internal alu in areas where fittings go. Carbon shell inside the barrel channel as well as inlet and cheek raiser opening. No hollow areas.

Yesterdays hunt, with two Danish friends, one of them a LE weapons expert. We took 7 Sika deer and one fox in two days.

hjWOAxl.jpg


edi
 
They are very rigid and strong, have a double monocoque design. No milling involved. Internal alu in areas where fittings go. Carbon shell inside the barrel channel as well as inlet and cheek raiser opening. No hollow areas.

Yesterdays hunt, with two Danish friends, one of them a LE weapons expert. We took 7 Sika deer and one fox in two days.

hjWOAxl.jpg


edi
Wow, your camo is good, I can't see the shooters at all!
 
I've been away from this site for awhile, and have lost track of all the updated stuff out there.

I'm wanting to pick up a new stock this Black Friday for a Tikka 6 Creed build, and I'm debating inlet style. It'll be hunting- centered, with alot of range trips and hopefully some NRL thrown in.

Not that long ago, there was a few vendors offering a CTR-to-AICS conversion bottom metal, and it seems that most if not all those products are off the market. Was there issues with them, or just no interest?

Also, what are the popular stock options by now, for my criteria? Currently looking at Grayboe Phoenix2. I want it as light as possible, tripod compatible, preferably 10rd capable (AICS), and $600ish.

Pic for interest. Thanks.

View attachment 8554765
grayboe 35% off rn for black friday
 
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