Sniper gray would be an amazing option to have in scope colourWhat if we did a Sniper Grey vs Black or Tan ?
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Sniper gray would be an amazing option to have in scope colourWhat if we did a Sniper Grey vs Black or Tan ?
No I completely get that it’s a compromise and I understand to offset aim with it. That I completely get. I do think a thicker circle and smaller dot might be better, and I don’t thinkI’m a 1/2 moa shooter all day long, but often enough I’m shooting targets that are small enough to get obscured by a 1 moa dot and that’s the issue I’ve been having with my Leupold mk3hd sfp 3-9x with the TMR reticle. That reticle covers about 3/4” at 100 yards. If I’m shooting smaller targets out to let’s say 200 to 300 yards, which I often do I don’t like that the majority of the target is obscured and I don’t want to have an offset aim. I want the benefit of that floating dot for what I like it for. Not because I think I’m a 1/2 moa shooter all day long but because I want a more refined aiming point. Not only that but I don’t like that the space between the crosshairs and the dot are a whole mil and I would rather have less of a gap, even if only by 1/2 a mil for the benefit of wind holds when I do dial.It's mostly because it's a 2-12 and we need to see the reticle on 2x. Here's a tip for shooting groups, dial up .2 mil and use the top of the dot to aim with because your bullet will hit just high of the dot. In conjunction put the dot snugging something square or crossed on the paper target so the edges of the dot are touching on two sides.
We all love to think we're 1/2 moa all day long shooters with rifles capable of that but the truth is that's not the case much of the time. I've won a wide assortment of rifle matches using air rifles, rimfires, centerfires, and I wouldn't describe myself as a 1/2 moa guy at distance. Plus lets be honest, how many times are we using the center dot for distance?! Only if dialing for wind which we don't normally do because most of us are holding off.
This 2-12 scope isn't meant to be compared to 2.5-15, or a 3-18 either, nor meant to be an optic for extreme precision. It's a compromise to satisfy a lot of scenarios reasonably well. I like 15x and 18x, and I like precision, but the reticle has to be correct for low power too. The closest I have is a Helos G2 4-20 with a .05 thick mil reticle which is getting sketchy using 4x.
For another scope, depending on which lower magnification ratio is used, like if 4x or 5x ratio, and if 2.5x or 3x power on the bottom end, the center dot or cross, can be seen at the right size, which is the trick. But then you will typically have a scope with more weight and more length which comes back to which compromise one will tolerate more.
A work around would be a wider and thicker Circle Of Death in the 2-12 because it's somewhat assumed that COD will be used for closer engagement in which touching off a quick shot holding in the kill zone will result in a decent enough hit. This way the center dot can be reduced slightly, however now you've got some obscuring from the COD, and the dot is getting very small to see on 2x if one wants to use it.
Aside from that I think for many a 2.5-15 or 3-18 would be more appealing for precision and general duties with a slightly thicker reticle than what we normally see and mentioned more than once here. Those scope companies have been terrified to do this because of the Tiny DoT Tribalistic attitude, which is fine on those 5-25's and 6-36's where .025-.03 mil is more desirable.
Blend this with a cleaned up Minox THLR reticle.View attachment 8603456
Something similar to Mavens MOA2 in the 3-18 illuminated would be an awesome hunting scope.
basically everything in this thread is already built into the CLR reticle from Apex.I would really like to see an auto ranging feature - like the PA scopes or druganov svd had.
Funny you showed this one. One of my favorite reticle ever is moar cf2 NF.View attachment 8603456
Something similar to Mavens MOA2 in the 3-18 illuminated would be an awesome hunting scope.
Hey, at least all of these are decent reticles. They could be much different.
Did they get sued by Horus for copyright infringement?Hey, at least all of these are decent reticles. They could be much different.
The tmi from eurooptic (I know it was a joke).
View attachment 8603854
I think we have a solid 25x to 35x I would look at the 18x and the cross over options, less defined in the wild
I could get behind this. But make the center dot (and all the in between tree dots) a + sign, for really fine groupings, so you can still see your other shots and the bull behind the dot. Plus, at high mag, the + signs give you a better FOV around the POA.For a good crossover, something like the stripped down Mil XT from @mj23polaris above would be good, with an illuminated Donut of Death. It's hard for me to envision how small it would be on 3x, but something around 4mil in total diameter and around .5 - .75 mil thick is probably in the right ballpark. That should be visible even at lowest magnification and possibly even disappear (like the Vudu scopes) if fully zoomed in.
Why do you like the +?I could get behind this. But make the center dot (and all the in between tree dots) a + sign, for really fine groupings, so you can still see your other shots and the bull behind the dot. Plus, at high mag, the + signs give you a better FOV around the POA.
I explained that in an earlier post. To me, it’s better with my astigmatism. The + still looks like a plus, where the dot starts looking fuzzy, like 2 dots.Why do you like the +?
IMO (and everyone I've talked to) it's worse in basically every way. Blocks more view and doesn't allow as precise aiming.
Here's what you said earlier (I had to back track and look also.)I like the floating plus sign in the middle and for the floating “dots”, like the Burris SCR2 reticle. It allows me to really hone in on the center of the bull to get the tightest groups.
Astigmatism affects people differently I think. I know with mine using a red dot like most it causes issues. A lot of people use eotechs instead because they say it’s much better but for me the eotech looks like a huge red smudge and is much worse.Here's what you said earlier (I had to back track and look also.)
Either way a larger obstruction of the aiming point does not seem conducive to the goal. You're allowed to have that preference but it seems to go against what everyone else likes.
I have astigmatism also and like the dot much better, however everyone's different and mine is fairly mild.
I have an issue with red dot's also. It's not terrible but for sure not the best. I've yet to fork over the cash for an EOTECH, I'd like to try one before I buy.Astigmatism affects people differently I think. I know with mine using a red dot like most it causes issues. A lot of people use eotechs instead because they say it’s much better but for me the eotech looks like a huge red smudge and is much worse.
Sorry, I wasn't meaning to single you out on the 1/2 moa part, because I meant most of us, including me.No I completely get that it’s a compromise and I understand to offset aim with it. That I completely get. I do think a thicker circle and smaller dot might be better, and I don’t thinkI’m a 1/2 moa shooter all day long, but often enough I’m shooting targets that are small enough to get obscured by a 1 moa dot and that’s the issue I’ve been having with my Leupold mk3hd sfp 3-9x with the TMR reticle. That reticle covers about 3/4” at 100 yards. If I’m shooting smaller targets out to let’s say 200 to 300 yards, which I often do I don’t like that the majority of the target is obscured and I don’t want to have an offset aim. I want the benefit of that floating dot for what I like it for. Not because I think I’m a 1/2 moa shooter all day long but because I want a more refined aiming point. Not only that but I don’t like that the space between the crosshairs and the dot are a whole mil and I would rather have less of a gap, even if only by 1/2 a mil for the benefit of wind holds when I do dial.
Edit: I think this might be a good place to have the circle and dot a dual focal plane but there might be issues that I’m not seeing with that.
Lots of this thread is lost in the weeds about designing a scope. This is (supposed to be) purely about a reticle.If a SH DNT comes out in a 3-18, that is somewhat compact, somewhat lightweight, has daylight bright illume, low profile turrets, tool less zero set(bonus), and a little thicker .2 mil reticle, then I want one. Otherwise there are plenty of other decent 3-18's out there.
Lots of this thread is lost in the weeds about designing a scope. This is (supposed to be) purely about a reticle.
Is there really a bunch of good budget 3-18s out there with a reticle usable through the entire range?If a SH DNT comes out in a 3-18, that is somewhat compact, somewhat lightweight, has daylight bright illume, low profile turrets, tool less zero set(bonus), and a little thicker .2 mil reticle, then I want one. Otherwise there are plenty of other decent 3-18's out there.
No but if DNT does the normal thin-ish reticles already in use they aren't bringing anything notable to the table which was what I was getting at.Is there really a bunch of good budget 3-18s out there with a reticle usable through the entire range?
This one, although there needs to be one more set of dashes inside the horseshoe to make it wind-friendly.Is there really a bunch of good budget 3-18s out there with a reticle usable through the entire range?
For me it was way worse. Some say it’s great for astigmatism though. Trying one first would for sure be best. It’s a shame as I really like the idea of an eotech.I have an issue with red dot's also. It's not terrible but for sure not the best. I've yet to fork over the cash for an EOTECH, I'd like to try one before I buy.
Ya but reticle swap basically only entails drawing it to scale.True but it'd be better if they "killed all the birds with one stone"
I prefer + having used them in a few different scopes.Why do you like the +?
IMO (and everyone I've talked to) it's worse in basically every way. Blocks more view and doesn't allow as precise aiming.
You had me until the locking turretsThere’s several reticles I really like.
The reticle in the Zeiss s3 is Amazing. However, I feel like it could be a little less cluttered past the 2mil marks on the horizontal stadia lines. I also wish they continued the .5 dots further all directions.
A non tree version of this reticle would be awesome.
I really enjoy the vpr reticle in the Arkens on gas gun stuff. I think it’s one of my favorites. It’s fast, and easy to read at all mag ranges.
I’m honestly surprised I haven’t seen much talk of the pr2/3 in here. That radicle is almost perfect. I wish leupold would sell Rights and let other manufactures use that reticle. It could be a hair darker.
I think something along these lines would be great.
I’m also an advocate for shorter, locking turrets.
Never noticed thickness difference between dot and crosshairs, not saying it doesn't exist just I've never noticed.I prefer + having used them in a few different scopes.
They are usually thinner lines than the equivalent dot so car provide a precise aiming point despite being larger but at lower magnification are more visible.
For a crossover scope in particular I'd want the tree to be actually usable at lower magnification.
I could see this if the + is the exact size of a ring or something making it easier to get exact center, outside of paper punching disciplines that doesn't have much merit.I second the option for a floating +. It is easier for me to see and I actually feel that I am more precise with it. I enjoy shooting 100 yard smallbore matches. The NRA A-25 10-ring is 2" in diameter. A floating +, 2-moa wide and tall, is easier for me to center within the rings.
Floating + lovers are a minority here. But we still deserve love too.
At least locking windage. Locking elevation isn't as big of deal.You had me until the locking turrets
We, or least not me, aren't in the know pertaining to how far along DNT is in the design, prototype, and production phase. It might be too late or it might not be?!Ya but reticle swap basically only entails drawing it to scale.
Adding all the features in that everyone is talking about would require designing an entirely new scope.
it's the equivalent of asking a kid what color we should paint their room and the response being
"build me a new house, with slides where the stairs go and an elevator to get to the top"
The MR2 Reticle on the Minox ZP5 3-15x50 is terrific for hunting. One of the best low mag ffp reticles that I have used.Blend this with a cleaned up Minox THLR reticle.
Not bad! I would prefer the first mil(E/W) be at .5 hash.Quick and dirty for a 3-18. A sort of mash-up between a mil-c, G2MD, and an EBR dot tree.
View attachment 8602449
I cannot see those floating dots without a struggle. But that's me. I'd like the dots you show at .2, , .4, .6 for wind on the tree as the center dot. Those I can see.Here's my take. This reticle would be primarily for 15-25 power use, and probably wouldn't work for shit in a 3-18. It'd be damn close to my ideal for PRS. Can't think of anything else I'd want for ELR, tactical, or general long range but those aren't my strong suit.
I like the EBR-7D a lot, but my gripes are as follows:
- No differentiation between .2, .4, .6, & .8 on the vertical. It sucks ass.
- No differentiation of the same in the horizontal. Less shitty as there's at least a half mil mark in there
My favorite parts about it
- Dots in the tree make it significantly more see through
- .025 mil center dot. Super fine is great for punching paper
- .1 mil open per side is tits. I use a .1 hold all the time. I hate having to interpolate like that on tiny targets.
- .025 line thickness works great in the higher power range. Not so great at lower power but if the FOV is large enough, you get away with it.
Changes to EBR-7D:
- All .2 & .8 stadia are .075 mils tall on the horizontal, and .150 on the vertical
- All .4 & .6 stadia are .125 mils tall on the horizontal, and .250 on the vertical
- 1 mil worth on windage removed from either side of the 2 mil line in the tree. Could probably do without more, but it doesn't affect me much leaving it.
Additional notes:
I got lazy and didn't put the vertical numbers on or the .1 section past the 6 mil mark on the upper half of the vertical stadia.
View attachment 8602702
View attachment 8602704
As far as holdoff within the COD use your God given intuition, it just takes a little practice. If I can do it so can everyone else. The wind changes and we do the best we can.
I like having the 0.2 mils within the first mil. But you could have 0.2's on the top (or bottom) and 0.5 on the other side?Not bad! I would prefer the first mil(E/W) be at .5 hash.
Maybe instead of hash marks we could use little skull outlines instead?Most reticles are generally the same — .03 to .04 thick lines, .2 or .25 hold marks, yawn…
If the goal is to do something unique, then do something unique.
Also, there is more gain to be had discussing reticle line thickness and center dot diameter than reticle design.
-Stan