Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.
Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
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Yeah, I've never felt that with mine. Have no Idea what is causing it either.Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.
Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.
Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
Does it bind with the action out of the MPA chassis? If so, remove bolt stop and check again.
I’ll try to get video of that tmrw, but it feels like the contact is within the receiver.Yep, none of mine do that…
Can you cock the action and then lift the bolt handle up and down… and video the rear of the bolt assembly to show us whether or not the white piece of metal moves forward or backward at all while you’re cocking it?
If it moves, even the slightest amount, the bolt could be binding on the trigger mechanism.
I’ll try to get video of that tmrw, but it feels like the contact is within the receiver.
Let’s say it is binding on the trigger mechanism, what’s the play?
Is like to see Ted build a rifle from the ground uo with zero compatibility with anything else.
Start from scratch on the mag trigger stock and action.
Let's see what he can do.
Exactly. That market is primarily custom and prices would have to reflect the low volume. The market would be small.He already did that with the M2 before he launched the Mausingfield, you can still find some info on it but I believe he said at the time there wasn’t a big enough market to produce it.
I have one of each. Both run equally, even swapping the bolts.It's fluted.
Is like to see Ted build a rifle from the ground uo with zero compatibility with anything else.
Start from scratch on the mag trigger stock and action.
Let's see what he can do.
Here’s some new views if it tells you guys anything. If you go to the first video, the chatter is happening when only the cylinder is passing over the trigger assembly. This one is a Bix and AndyIf the trigger is improperly adjusted, then it’s either putting too much pressure on the bolt or it’s rubbing on the bolt.
Some triggers have replaceable sears that allow you to swap them out for thickness…
Just saw Ted’s video on adjusting that. Gonna fix that first, but have a feeling the chatter isn’t from that.You have a low sear?
Interesting, Curious what you end up finding out.Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.
Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
With action out of the chassis (you can leave the trigger in), remove the bolt stop and spring . Test again.Okay, pulled it out of the chassis, pulled the trigger assy out, ran the bolt, chatter/bind still there. It’s not 100% every cycle, of course, but unless you have perfect muscle memory to be perfectly parallel over the length of the cycle, you’ll still get it.
Readjusted sear engagement to as perfect as I can.
Def not trigger
That’s exactly what I think. It’s completely independent of anything else. I’m sure the extra room is there for dirty PRS / field use, which I appreciate, but creates a bigger angle to dig in.I just pulled out my lightweight CDG action. It’s brand new and it seems to have less bolt movement. It doesn’t bind like my other CDG action.
I think it’s the diameter of the bolt allowing it too much of an angle, causing it to bind when you cycle it
Thanks for the suggestion. New video addedWith action out of the chassis (you can leave the trigger in), remove the bolt stop and spring . Test again.
Test is to rule out the possibility of the bolt stop applying lateral pressure to your bolt body.
Alternate instruction - simply hold bolt release button and move bolt back and forth to see if it binds.
View attachment 8651330
Curious if you changed calibers or what vintage you bolt, bolt head, and barrel are. There was a print correction with regards to the cone dimensions early on. And also, the cone dimensions change according to the caliber if there is a bolt head change.Has anyone else’s action developed this marking? Looks like where the bolt face interacts with the lugs as it guides it into the correct location. In conversation with ARC this may be something that occurs just due to there being no guide rails for the bolt body. Just curious if anyone else’s action exhibits this or just mine due to how I handle the bolt or something like that.
Of Note: I am in talked with ARC. They are very responsive have stated it’s not a deftly concern or anything of the sorts.
Are you talking about cone dimensions for the barrel? The impact to the front face of the lug is ahead of any interaction the barrel would have with the bolt.Curious if you changed calibers or what vintage you bolt, bolt head, and barrel are. There was a print correction with regards to the cone dimensions early on. And also, the cone dimensions change according to the caliber if there is a bolt head change.
Per my understanding and experience from having an early release and then buying a different bolt head and changing course at the last minute.
The lugs are part of the bolt head, which is a separate piece of the bolt assembly. At some point, pages in, this was discussed. There were people finding that their bolt head (the nose) was interacting with the barrel cone. There were some changes in the initial barrel cone dimensions on the print. And changing bolt heads can also create an issue.Are you talking about cone dimensions for the barrel? The impact to the front face of the lug is ahead of any interaction the barrel would have with the bolt.
I’m the second owner. I believe the original owner had a creedmoor in it. I have a 6.5 prc on it
Okay. I didn’t know that and mine doesn’t do that.Take off the barrel and the action still has those marks. It doesn't have anything to do with cone dimension changes.
Sounds a bit like my multiple copies of CZ 527 mini-mauser actions. For that action, talented tinkerers have somewhat fixed that issue but I never had any luck. Only notice it when cycling actual rounds and not during dry fire. Usually pushing the back of the bolt helps a lot.
But you shouldn’t have to do that stuff to a CDG.