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Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!

Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.

Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg

Yep, none of mine do that…

Can you cock the action and then lift the bolt handle up and down… and video the rear of the bolt assembly to show us whether or not the white piece of metal moves forward or backward at all while you’re cocking it?

If it moves, even the slightest amount, the bolt could be binding on the trigger mechanism.
 
Does it bind with the action out of the MPA chassis? If so, remove bolt stop and check again.

That’s actually a good point one of the things also to check is whether or not the front action or rear action bolts are sticking through the action.

I have found that on the chassis I use (vision chassis), you absolutely need to make sure to use one of the provided washers.
 
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Yep, none of mine do that…

Can you cock the action and then lift the bolt handle up and down… and video the rear of the bolt assembly to show us whether or not the white piece of metal moves forward or backward at all while you’re cocking it?

If it moves, even the slightest amount, the bolt could be binding on the trigger mechanism.
I’ll try to get video of that tmrw, but it feels like the contact is within the receiver.

Let’s say it is binding on the trigger mechanism, what’s the play?
 
I’ll try to get video of that tmrw, but it feels like the contact is within the receiver.

Let’s say it is binding on the trigger mechanism, what’s the play?

If the trigger is improperly adjusted, then it’s either putting too much pressure on the bolt or it’s rubbing on the bolt.

Some triggers have replaceable sears that allow you to swap them out for thickness…
 
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Is like to see Ted build a rifle from the ground uo with zero compatibility with anything else.

Start from scratch on the mag trigger stock and action.

Let's see what he can do.

He already did that with the M2 before he launched the Mausingfield, you can still find some info on it but I believe he said at the time there wasn’t a big enough market to produce it.
 
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Is like to see Ted build a rifle from the ground uo with zero compatibility with anything else.

Start from scratch on the mag trigger stock and action.

Let's see what he can do.

What's missing AFAIK, is a chassis integral with the action/one unit, so no action screws, and nothing to come loose. Then it'll be the host for a plethora of furniture and accessories. Why mess around when you can go all the way.
 
If the trigger is improperly adjusted, then it’s either putting too much pressure on the bolt or it’s rubbing on the bolt.

Some triggers have replaceable sears that allow you to swap them out for thickness…
Here’s some new views if it tells you guys anything. If you go to the first video, the chatter is happening when only the cylinder is passing over the trigger assembly. This one is a Bix and Andy

 
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Sound on. If you can’t see it, you can hear it.

Here’s a link https://share.icloud.com/photos/00c6idx11aNK55Ttv5dUzQLcg
Interesting, Curious what you end up finding out.
mine did the same thing. What it looked like to me was the bolt diameter left too much play so when you cycled the bolt it was angled up against those sharper edges causing it too almost bind up. I ended up using lapping compound which helped out tremendously but did take off the black nitride. In hindsight I should of sent an email to ARC.

Definitely pull the trigger out and see if you still get that problem.
 
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Okay, pulled it out of the chassis, pulled the trigger assy out, ran the bolt, chatter/bind still there. It’s not 100% every cycle, of course, but unless you have perfect muscle memory to be perfectly parallel over the length of the cycle, you’ll still get it.

Readjusted sear engagement to as perfect as I can.

Def not trigger
 
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Okay, pulled it out of the chassis, pulled the trigger assy out, ran the bolt, chatter/bind still there. It’s not 100% every cycle, of course, but unless you have perfect muscle memory to be perfectly parallel over the length of the cycle, you’ll still get it.

Readjusted sear engagement to as perfect as I can.

Def not trigger
With action out of the chassis (you can leave the trigger in), remove the bolt stop and spring . Test again.
Test is to rule out the possibility of the bolt stop applying lateral pressure to your bolt body.

Alternate instruction - simply hold bolt release button and move bolt back and forth to see if it binds.
1743190160026.png
 
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I just pulled out my lightweight CDG action. It’s brand new and it seems to have less bolt movement. It doesn’t bind like my other CDG action.
I think it’s the diameter of the bolt allowing it too much of an angle, causing it to bind when you cycle it
When I get back I’ll take some measurements
 
I just pulled out my lightweight CDG action. It’s brand new and it seems to have less bolt movement. It doesn’t bind like my other CDG action.
I think it’s the diameter of the bolt allowing it too much of an angle, causing it to bind when you cycle it
That’s exactly what I think. It’s completely independent of anything else. I’m sure the extra room is there for dirty PRS / field use, which I appreciate, but creates a bigger angle to dig in.

That said, many have chimed in here with little or no issue. It could just be end of life on a mill when it was my turn and perhaps the final machining wasn’t quite as clean.

For the record, if nobody saw this earlier, Ted and the gang didn’t hesitate in having me send in with a quick turn around; awesome CS. I’m just trying to avoid it.
 
Ok, bolt measurements looked the same but when I take the bolt out of my light weight CDG which is new and put it in my other CDG action it binds up enough that the caming bolt handle will move which doesn’t happen in the light weight action.
I think there are some tight spots on the action itself and not the bolt. Gonna reach out ARC.
 
With action out of the chassis (you can leave the trigger in), remove the bolt stop and spring . Test again.
Test is to rule out the possibility of the bolt stop applying lateral pressure to your bolt body.

Alternate instruction - simply hold bolt release button and move bolt back and forth to see if it binds.
View attachment 8651330
Thanks for the suggestion. New video added
 
Has anyone else’s action developed this marking? Looks like where the bolt face interacts with the lugs as it guides it into the correct location. In conversation with ARC this may be something that occurs just due to there being no guide rails for the bolt body. Just curious if anyone else’s action exhibits this or just mine due to how I handle the bolt or something like that.

Of Note: I am in talked with ARC. They are very responsive have stated it’s not a deftly concern or anything of the sorts.
 

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Has anyone else’s action developed this marking? Looks like where the bolt face interacts with the lugs as it guides it into the correct location. In conversation with ARC this may be something that occurs just due to there being no guide rails for the bolt body. Just curious if anyone else’s action exhibits this or just mine due to how I handle the bolt or something like that.

Of Note: I am in talked with ARC. They are very responsive have stated it’s not a deftly concern or anything of the sorts.
Curious if you changed calibers or what vintage you bolt, bolt head, and barrel are. There was a print correction with regards to the cone dimensions early on. And also, the cone dimensions change according to the caliber if there is a bolt head change.

Per my understanding and experience from having an early release and then buying a different bolt head and changing course at the last minute.
 
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Curious if you changed calibers or what vintage you bolt, bolt head, and barrel are. There was a print correction with regards to the cone dimensions early on. And also, the cone dimensions change according to the caliber if there is a bolt head change.

Per my understanding and experience from having an early release and then buying a different bolt head and changing course at the last minute.
Are you talking about cone dimensions for the barrel? The impact to the front face of the lug is ahead of any interaction the barrel would have with the bolt.

I’m the second owner. I believe the original owner had a creedmoor in it. I have a 6.5 prc on it
 
Are you talking about cone dimensions for the barrel? The impact to the front face of the lug is ahead of any interaction the barrel would have with the bolt.

I’m the second owner. I believe the original owner had a creedmoor in it. I have a 6.5 prc on it
The lugs are part of the bolt head, which is a separate piece of the bolt assembly. At some point, pages in, this was discussed. There were people finding that their bolt head (the nose) was interacting with the barrel cone. There were some changes in the initial barrel cone dimensions on the print. And changing bolt heads can also create an issue.

In my case a 0.595 bolt head caused marking on the cone of a 7PRC barrel and I had to get the proper 0.540 bolt head to make it fit correctly.
 
Sounds a bit like my multiple copies of CZ 527 mini-mauser actions. For that action, talented tinkerers have somewhat fixed that issue but I never had any luck. Only notice it when cycling actual rounds and not during dry fire. Usually pushing the back of the bolt helps a lot.

But you shouldn’t have to do that stuff to a CDG.

I had the same issue with a couple of the 527s.
In each one, I found the outside of the claw extractor rubbing along the back bridge of the action.
In time, they all smoothed out.