1st rifle, 2k budget, build or buy?

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Looking at getting into long range shooting and purchasing or building a rifle.

I was looking at the Savage stealth Evolution in 300wm for$1650
https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/long-range/110-stealth-evolution


Then I was thinking how hard is it to build an accurate long-range rifle? And can it be done for a comparable price?

I've built a shit ton of ARs and pistols.

Fyi, i have a Winchester model 70 in 300WM but the recoil is so brutal its hard to get 10rds down range before my arm falls off.

 

[jpspeeddemon]

Get a 6.5 creedmoor. The ballistics are roughly equal to 300wm but with better barrel life, much less recoil, and much cheaper ammo.
Look at the Tikka T3x CTR 24" barrel or the Tikka T3x Tac A1 if you want a chassis.

Don't forget to spend $$ on good glass.

 

[NovaHunter]

Seekins Bravo and PVA JHR are 2 rifles right at $2k are top quality components and hard to beat. Wait time for either would be the downside.

 

[SpeedyR]

is the $2k just for the rifle or rifle/glass?

I was in the same spot with regards to budget. I have decent (enough) glass for the rifle, but didn't want to go over $2k.

for sure I'd recommend 6.5 creedmoor for best accuracy and distance (you didn't mention your plans but I would assume 500-1000 yard target shooting and maybe hunting use?).

For $2k you can buy one of the newer "PRS production class" rifles that are popping up. See the other threads but basically the Patriot Valley Arms John Hancock (could be a long wait for one), MPA has a new production class rifle, and Bad Rock Rifles as well. Not sure what the lead times are on those as well.

Another option would be to build something but starting with a good platform- Tikka usually is highly recommended. I looked for a good used Tikka T3X Tac A1 in 6.5CM (retail around $1800, used ones sometimes down to $1500). Buy it and put on some good optics and go shooting. Or get a T3X CTR and a chassis or other stock (KRG Bravo, etc) and you are ready to roll.

Or drop down to the Ruger Precision rifle (new you might find them as low as $1k) and factor in some decent glass and you'll be ready to go.

these days you could build something, but given the prices that you can get something like a John Hancock, it's easier to let a shop that has a good reputation do it for you. for the price of the JH, it was about what it would cost me for the parts and I know they will put it together better than I can.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

I have a decent scope so 2k is for the rifle only.

Purpose... aside from possibly hunting is mainly just the challenge of precision long range and to see how far I can take it, ideally +1000yd my ultimate goal is a Mile shot. Maybe not with this rifle but working up to it.

I shoot my AR308 out to 800 and my AR556 out to 500 with a red dot, I have a craving to go farther.

 

[physguy88]

I've been looking at something similar lately. In theory, for a 6.5 creedmoore build, you could go:
Bighorn Origin
KRG Bravo
Trigger Tech Special
Barrel Nut
Criterion Savage pre-fit barrel

For under $2K before tax, not counting tools like go no-go gauges and action wrench. The only thing that might need rifle smithing would be timing the trigger. The longest lead time item is the Origin action. Everything else seems to be in stock some where.

 

[leeb10]

For first rifle I would skip the hassle of getting tools and setup to chamber your first prefit. Head over to keystone accuracy and get one of their origin barreled actions. Grab a tt and a stock/chassis of your choice and go shoot

 

[kthomas]

For first rifle I would skip the hassle of getting tools and setup to chamber your first prefit. Head over to keystone accuracy and get one of their origin barreled actions. Grab a tt and a stock/chassis of your choice and go shoot

This sounds like a great option.

I would go for the above barreled action, with a Krieger barrel in 6.5 creedmoor (no need for .300wm), drop it in a KRG Bravo chassis and put a BnA Tacsport 2 stage trigger on it (I prefer it to the TT triggers).

That would be an excellent $2k setup.

 

[TM6]

For first rifle I would skip the hassle of getting tools and setup to chamber your first prefit. Head over to keystone accuracy and get one of their origin barreled actions. Grab a tt and a stock/chassis of your choice and go shoot

They don't have any Bighorn actions in stock, they do have the Curtis Axioms on the shelve though. Just called John on Monday to inquire about an Origin B/A and no dice. He said I could order one from Zermatt and have it shipped to him but decided to order one, along with a barrel, and twist it up myself.

TM6

 

[Eoddave27]

If it was me buying my first rifle with a 2k budget I would just get a Tikka T3x Tac. They are fairly easy to find and you will not need to switch out any parts like triggers. The CTR is another option if you don’t like chassis rifles. It should be just a matter of dropping an optic on it and shooting. After you have been shooting a bolt gun for awhile and get a better feel for what you like and dislike about the rifle you have then look at building something that is exactly what you want.

 

[ToddM]

With the new "flood" of "semi-custom" options being priced at $2k for PRS production division, I would advise against ANYTHING from the big factory boys, like the Ruger RPR, Tac A1, savage, winchester, etc.. They are not much cheaper and most guys put upgrades in them that push them at or over $2k.

The RPR is a perfect example, guy buy them, put a $500 barrel on them, $200 handguard, $200 PRS stock, $250 trigger, and you're way over $2k and you still have a Ruger action/bolt. The Tac A1 is great, and before all these semi-custom PRS options would be my go to for a factory rig under $2k. Most shoot very well, but again they are $1800 and guys are putting $200+ custom triggers in them, you're over $2k now. These semi-custom PRS motivated options give you a custom barrel, custom trigger, chassis or high quality stock, tuned or custom action etc.. PVA Hancock, Seekins Havok, MPA PA BMR, Ashbury Precision Sabre M700, and others. You simply can't beat them to ensure you get something that absolutely is going to perform accuracy wise, they already have the custom barrel, action, trigger stock, and doesn't need significant upgrades in 3 months.

 

[Clans1971]

I have the Tikka T3 tac A1 and it’s a great shooting rifle right out of the box. Will hold 3/4 MOA all day if I do my part.

 

[acudaowner]

a premade gun is not a horrible idea if you only have 2k with optics in that price , but if the 300wm's recoil bothers you why get another 6.5 creedmoor is nice shooting 6mm br maybe i have not tried one of those yet or something else depending on your taste your budget and how far you want to shoot. but if the 300 wm's recoil is the only thing stopping you they make shoulder pads that could help with recoil maybe just anidea 40 dollars is way cheap to solve a problem .

 

[LongRangeLefty]

Unless a mile is gonna be the norm, RPR. So many options for the money

 

[George P. Burdell]

Is there a reason you want another 300 WM?

 

[Clans1971]

Just another thing to add is the model 70 is a hunting rifle, the weight has been reduced and the wood stock does not help to absorb the recoil. A heavier rifle with a brake will make all the difference on the recoil of the 300 WM.

 

[IndianaRem5r]

The new Badrock. Look it up. I think it is best bang for the buck at the 2 grand pricepoint, right now.

 

[hitman]

Another vote for the Tikka. I have one and it is a solid 1/2 moa gun and you can find them for around 15-1700.

 

[oneshotmike]

A "cheaper" way to go would be a Remington 700P in 300 win mag, change the trigger and install your scope and base. These can be had for just under 1K when available. HS precision stock, 26 inch barrel etc. If you don't like the recoil of a 300WM and your set on that caliber, get a brake installed. Doing the math, gun @1000, trigger @200, brake installed @125 plus cost of brake for threading, your right at $1500

I would also echo the sentiments of others here who recommend the 6.5..... I have a Tikka TX3 TacA1 in 6.5 The action is smooth as butter, it comes with a brake installed and the trigger is light and smooth. I agree its a 1/2 ot 3/4 moa gun out of the box. Put a good optic on it and your good to go.

I don't think you can build what your looking for at your price point. I just finished a build and listed are the costs. No optics, base etc....

Bartlein barrel from bugholes.com $365 + shipping
MPA Chassis( Off the PX here) $780...waiting on arrival due to snow and paralyzing weather in midwest
Remington700SS Action buds gun shop $380 + plus shipping
Badger Recoil Lug $30
APA Little Bastard Brake Gen II $160
Triggertech Special Trigger $180
Local Gun Smith doing the labor etc $700
Total $2595 + plus shipping..….no scope, base and rings (plenty of options out there based on what / how you will shoot)

Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

 

[Precisiondada]

Build. Find a Bighorn Origin in-stock (Hunt’s Long Range maybe), get a shouldered barrel spun up, buy a trigger and stock/chassis of your choice. I wouldn’t be concerned with trigger timing, it doesn’t effect function. Bighorn did mine and turned it around same day for $50, it’s a non-issue. You’ll probably have more appreciation for something built not bought in the long run. I can’t imagine a Bighorn + (insert reputable barrel maker here) not shooting well. Ditch the 300 for a 6.5 as stated above for more manageable recoil

 

[Schuhanks]

If I could do it over again I would go semi custom, I went with a rpr in 6.5 creed with a few weeks out before a match. The rpr shoots fine and I will probably finish out the 2019 season with it but there is always that feeling to have better lol pennies are saving for sure!

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Is there a reason you want another 300 WM?

Like Clans1971 said above my model70 is like a 7lb skinny stick, it's uncomfortable and kicks like a mule. I think I could manage a heavier rifle, barrel with a brake, better and adjustable stock and grip.

Reason I was looking at 300WM isi want to shoot as far as I can and from what I've read top end performance is better than 6.5CM, I really wanted to do a 338LM but I like to shoot and that would be cost prohibitive.

 

[chevy_man]

You can always build a remage cheap. Criterion, McGowan, and X-Caliber all have great barrels reasonably priced for the remage system. Just need gauges, an action vise and nut wrench.

Otherwise it's damn hard to beat the Tika or Bergara offerings. They will both shoot well, and the warranty is worth something to some people.

 

[Novak77]

+1 for getting a Tikka in 6.5CM. Look at either a CTR or TAC A1 and as others have mentioned don't forget to budget for a decent scope.

If you get a CTR you can always add a stock or chassis of your choice and still be under $2k. If you get a TAC A1 all you need to do is add glass.

 

[Temper]

Build. Find a Bighorn Origin in-stock (Hunt’s Long Range maybe), get a shouldered barrel spun up, buy a trigger and stock/chassis of your choice. I wouldn’t be concerned with trigger timing, it doesn’t effect function. Bighorn did mine and turned it around same day for $50, it’s a non-issue. You’ll probably have more appreciation for something built not bought in the long run. I can’t imagine a Bighorn + (insert reputable barrel maker here) not shooting well. Ditch the 300 for a 6.5 as stated above for more manageable recoil

100% this. It's bewildering why anyone would buy a factory gun anymore with a budget over 1500 when you could build a brand new custom yourself for ~1700.

 

[patriot07]

Buy.

Tikka CTR - replace the stock if you want. Mine is 1/2 MOA all day long with handloads. Smooth, reliable action, great trigger, with stupidly good accuracy. And you can have a few hundred bucks left over for ammo. I tried out several different guns before buying my Tikka and there really isn't anything that compares for the money.

I got a Manners T4A from europtics for around $650. So you could be all in at around $1500-$1600 for a rifle with a really nice quality stock, barrel, trigger, and action.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

100% this. It's bewildering why anyone would buy a factory gun anymore with a budget over 1500 when you could build a brand new custom yourself for ~1700.

Does it require gunsmith to build? Or is it more or less skilled assembly?

Would a build likely be more accurate than a store bought or same just better quality parts? would the skill of assembly have a effect on accuracy or is it all in parts? Wondering on being my first bolt action build.

 

[physguy88]

If you are set on 300 win mag you might be able to buy a Tikka in 300 win Mag, swap out for a KRG chassis or some other chassis of your choice, and have enough left over to do a pre-fit barrel from a place like below, or PVA.

https://www.solidaccuracy.com/product/current-inventory/?

Also there is this:

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-Tactical-.300-Win-Mag.aspx

You could also still build but you might have to go up to something like a Bighorn TL3. If you go with pre-fit barrels the barreling process should be the same as what's shown in this Proof Research video. Their rifle system uses a TL3 with a barrel nut and a pre-fit barrel.



So in theory, you put your trigger together with the action, then do the above, then just screw the thing into a chassis and you are ready to go.....

 

[Mute]

I don't know what you consider long distance but you may want to consider the APO Sniper's Hide Edition Rifle in 6.5 CM

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

I don't know what you consider long distance but you may want to consider the APO Sniper's Hide Edition Rifle in 6.5 CM

1000+
I saw that while looking around, very nice rifle. So many options.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

If you are set on 300 win mag you might be able to buy a Tikka in 300 win Mag, swap out for a KRG chassis or some other chassis of your choice, and have enough left over to do a pre-fit barrel from a place like below, or PVA.

https://www.solidaccuracy.com/product/current-inventory/?

Also there is this:

https://www.eurooptic.com/Tikka-T3x-Tactical-.300-Win-Mag.aspx

You could also still build but you might have to go up to something like a Bighorn TL3. If you go with pre-fit barrels the barreling process should be the same as what's shown in this Proof Research video. Their rifle system uses a TL3 with a barrel nut and a

So in theory, you put your trigger together with the action, then do the above, then just screw the thing into a chassis and you are ready to go.....

Interesting, I honestly thought there was way more to it.

Does proof make their own actions? That looks like the same markings as the badrock rifle.

Will anything Tikka shoot better than say this?

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/long-range/110-stealth-evolution

Big 5 sells it for $1650

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Btw, Thank you to everyone for your input.

 

[physguy88]

Interesting, I honestly thought there was way more to it.

Does proof make their own actions? That looks like the same markings as the badrock rifle.

Will anything Tikka shoot better than say this?

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/long-range/110-stealth-evolution

Big 5 sells it for $1650

I think better let other people with experience speak to savage vs tikka.

For the proof rifle, the bighorn tl3 is the exact action they use on the switch.

 

[XLR308]

For that price point definitely build before paying nearly 2k for a factory rifle.
Or choose one of the rifles that are being marketed for the 2k production class that are being offered right now.
In response to the Savage rifle question my take is simple without getting abusive.
The savage rifles will shoot very well in my experience and I still have a few but the actions are kind of clunky but can be smoothed up a bit.
The Rem700 is a much smoother action than any savage I have ever owned and there are more aftermarket parts than you could digest in a week of looking at them.
Then there are the Rem700 clone actions the only ones I have any real experience with is the Kelblys Atlas tactical that are much smoother and have many other features than a rem700 to start with and are priced very competitively for what all you get with one.
I would suggest taking a look at an Atlas or Origin and what it would cost to build a rifle exactly the way you want it and go from there if you aren't in a big hurry.
Both of those actions are readily available as well or you can wait for however long it takes without any realistic delivery date on one of the others without calling out any names.

 

[physguy88]

I think better let other people with experience speak to savage vs tikka.

For the proof rifle, the bighorn tl3 is the exact action they use on the switch.

BTW I was looking into the krg bravo chassis because it's one of the best lightweight low cost chassis around with adjustable ergo.

If you actually want more weight and your options for chassis or stock open up considerably. Eg:

https://mdttac.com/us_en/lss-xl-gen2-chassis-system.html

https://oryxchassis.com/us/oryx-bolt-action-rifle-chassis.html

https://grayboe.com/product-category/stocks/

https://www.stockysstocks.com/stocks-by-feature/intended-use/tactical.html

https://www.magpul.com/products/hunter-700-la-stock-remington-700-long-action

 

[Temper]

Does it require gunsmith to build? Or is it more or less skilled assembly?

Would a build likely be more accurate than a store bought or same just better quality parts? would the skill of assembly have a effect on accuracy or is it all in parts? Wondering on being my first bolt action build.

If you can screw things together and hammer a couple pins you can do it with about 100 bucks in tools. Rear entry action wrench and a barrel vise is all you need. It’s really hard to mess up with a shouldered prefit. Yes, the build is likely to be more accurate and will defintely be higher quality while also keeping your options open. Switch barrel setups, prefits, 223 to standard mag case head compatibility if you go with an action with interchangeable bolt heads etc. You can truly have just one rifle nowadays without much compromise.

 

[patriot07]

To be clear, "more accurate" is a term that's somewhat less meaningful than it was 10-20 years ago. You can buy a $1k factory gun that will shoot 1/2 MOA with handloads (you can spend less, but it's just an example). Is spending double to go to a .3"-.4" gun going to mean anything in real life? Probably not, unless you're in benchrest competitions.

Just want to be clear that most of the upgrade from $1k-$2k is personal preference in configuration - not in rifle performance.

 

[steve123]

Buy a used custom rifle with low round count like I did at first.

11 years ago my bud bought a new Cooper in 243wssm. We were hitting bowling pins at 600Y and that was it for me, I was hooked, I had to get a long range rifle.

So after thinking about it I decided I'd go to a big benchrest match to see what used rifles I could find. There were 3 tables full of custom BR rifles for sale. I inquired, asked lots of questions, and left with one "full custom rifle" for less than half what it would cost new, and with a low round count. It was one awesome rifle preowned by a gunsmith!
I sold that rifle for most of what I had into it a couple years later to buy a used repeater after finding this site and about precision rifle matches.

That repeater I bought off the exchange here on the Hide, it was also a full custom and in my favorite chambering. Awesome rifle as well. It was a gunsmiths personal rifle also with a low round count. I shot that thing for many years and I sold it 2 years ago for $100 less than what I paid for it at the time. I had gone through 4 barrels which can be considered like buying tires for a car, which are expendables, so no getting the money back on those.

As the years went by I pretty much knew what I wanted so my current custom rifle was all new parts that I did myself mostly, except the first barrel was chambered by a GS, but the barrel I use now is a prefit which I installed myself. Some of the build parts on this rifle were on sale so I still saved a pile of money.

Heck, one time I bought a used stock, barreled action, etc, put it together, and sold it for a profit.

The moral of the story is that you can buy a used rifle for half what it was when new if you look around enough. Or at least build one with used parts, or new but on sale.

If I were going to buy a new rifle right now for general use it'd be the Tikka TAC in 6.5C, not full price of course, lol, cause I'm a cheap ass. When you get to 1 mile take plenty of ammo and pick a calm day!

I also have a dedicated super heavy rifle, it weighs 24lbs with scope, more with bipod and the 10 round mag loaded with 225 grainers in a big 30 cal magnum with huge brake. It's so soft recoiling I've shot it in matches, just saying. It's not for hunting unless from a fixed position not far from the truck.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Definately leaning Build. Granted I can find an action and barrel.

How about option C?

Someone in the PX is selling a brand new Rem 700 5R in 300 win mag for $750.
add a chassis and muzzle break and I'm basically there right?

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

To be clear, "more accurate" is a term that's somewhat less meaningful than it was 10-20 years ago. You can buy a $1k factory gun that will shoot 1/2 MOA with handloads (you can spend less, but it's just an example). Is spending double to go to a .3"-.4" gun going to mean anything in real life? Probably not, unless you're in benchrest competitions.

Just want to be clear that most of the upgrade from $1k-$2k is personal preference in configuration - not in rifle performance.

I see what your saying.

My ultimate goal is to shoot over a mile. I'm basically looking for an option that will take me the farthest and get me as close or beyond for under $2k.

 

[Clans1971]

I would look into the .284 caliber rounds. That 180 grain bullet has a great g7 and there are many options to choose from, short action or long action. I like the 284 Shehane with a 26 inch barrel throated for the 180 grain bullets.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I would 1000% go custom get a TL3 and any of the many barrels available from multiple sources, get a KRG bravo chassis for cheap, area 419 brake, TT special or diamond trigger and your done.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

I would 1000% go custom get a TL3 and any of the many barrels available from multiple sources, get a KRG bravo chassis for cheap, area 419 brake, TT special or diamond trigger and your done.

Can that be done under $2k?

 

[Sutherlandsd]

Well lets see $1250 for TL3
Barrel can be anywhere from $375 for a Criterion to $900+ for a proof (would suggest a Keystone shouldered button rifle prefit for $459)
Triggertech Special $185
area 419 brake $165 (can go cheaper here if need be)
KRG Bravo $349

Thats just looking at Brownells and Hunts precision and not shopping around, if your going to stay short action then you can swap the TL3 for an Origin at $850 and have a substantial savings.

Rifle can be any caliber you want it to be within the bolt face all it takes is a new barrel (go/no go gauge if you go dont go shouldered) and about 15minutes.

 

[patriot07]

This thread is "1st rifle". There is absolutely no reason a Tikka with a factory or aftermarket barrel would be insufficient for the OP's needs.

If your goal is to shoot over a mile, then you really need to decide if you need your first rifle to do that, or if you want to get into long range shooting with a round that's low-recoil, affordable to shoot, and easy to reload for.

8 days a week, I'd buy a Tikka CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and mod as desired. It will get you to 1,300-1,400 yards, and you can upgrade to a 338/300/etc caliber once you've got the hang of long range shooting a bit.

There's nothing wrong with a TL3 action, but a guy buying his first long range gun doesn't need a $1200 device that takes the round from the mag and sets it in the barrel. That's complete overkill.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Well lets see $1250 for TL3
Barrel can be anywhere from $375 for a Criterion to $900+ for a proof (would suggest a Keystone shouldered button rifle prefit for $459)
Triggertech Special $185
area 419 brake $165 (can go cheaper here if need be)
KRG Bravo $349

Thats just looking at Brownells and Hunts precision and not shopping around, if your going to stay short action then you can swap the TL3 for an Origin at $850 and have a substantial savings.

Rifle can be any caliber you want it to be within the bolt face all it takes is a new barrel (go/no go gauge if you go dont go shouldered) and about 15minutes.

Nice but Damn, that's already $2,324. And the KRG bravo LA is another $100

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

This thread is "1st rifle". There is absolutely no reason a Tikka with a factory or aftermarket barrel would be insufficient for the OP's needs.

If your goal is to shoot over a mile, then you really need to decide if you need your first rifle to do that, or if you want to get into long range shooting with a round that's low-recoil, affordable to shoot, and easy to reload for.

8 days a week, I'd buy a Tikka CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and mod as desired. It will get you to 1,300-1,400 yards, and you can upgrade to a 338/300/etc caliber once you've got the hang of long range shooting a bit.

There's nothing wrong with a TL3 action, but a guy buying his first long range gun doesn't need a $1200 device that takes the round from the mag and sets it in the barrel. That's complete overkill.

If possible, i would like to work up to shoot a mile with this particular rifle. what I don't want to see happen is spend time and money on a rifle reloading and accessories only to fall short of my goal and have to invest in a whole other rifle and caliber to reach it.

This is my 1000yd+ rifle

You all have totally sold me on Tikka, in fact I might get the 6.5 down the road.

Would you consider a used never fired Rem 700 5R in 300 win mag with timey trigger for $750 a more reasonable option that I could upgrade as desired?

 

[jpspeeddemon]

You can shoot a mile with the 6.5 creedmoor, many have done it. Check out the ELR forum. Barrel life for a 6.5cm is about 2,500 rounds and a 300wm is about 1,500 rounds. Reloading is way cheaper for a 6.5cm than a 300wm. Ballistics out to about 1,300 yards are very similar. Unless you want a dedicated 1mile gun I suggest going with the 6.5 creedmoor.

Get a Tikka 6.5 cm, use the money you saved to buy more ammo, and go shoot.

If you really want a magnum, then look at the 6.5 PRC, its about 200 to 250 fps faster than the 6.5cm.
Consider this rifle:
https://www.ruger.com/products/HawkeyeLRT/models.html

 

[260284]

Interesting, I honestly thought there was way more to it.

Does proof make their own actions? That looks like the same markings as the badrock rifle.

Will anything Tikka shoot better than say this?

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/long-range/110-stealth-evolution

Big 5 sells it for $1650

A Tikka is a lot smoother action than a Savage. Less feeding issues and the trigger is probably the best factory trigger out there. Add a $10 spring and it will be 1-1/2 lbs or less.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

The issue I have is the Tikka down the road is still a Tikka, if you decide to continue down this journey the Tikka will be more difficult to upgrade and certainly more expensive (price a Tikka mag...) and have much more limited options or like most your going to be starting from scratch and selling a Tikka. If you go short action then a Origin or any of the budget actions will work for you and start around $850ish or damn buy a USED ACTION the hide has plenty of good members upgrading or selling. If you decide you dont like it then you can sell the parts and be out maybe 15% of your investment 20% at tops or hell maybe even make money. If you like it.... the world is your oyster you have an action built off the industry standard rem 700 footprint. If your wanting to get a factory rifle then yes a Tikka is not a bad choice but still wouldnt be my choice.

You dont need a long action to reach a mile.

Before the Tikka crowd burns me at the stake its a great factory rifle, but not something that I would build off of personally.