22 creedmoor

Whidden custom FL bushing dies. Sent them 3x pcs of fired brass a long time before this cartridge was even though about for mainstream and had them make a set of dies.

But you can certainly get away with either 6 or 6.5cm dies and bushings.
Sounds like the route I’ll go. Thanks..
 
I need to get something initially before I go to the custom die route. Good to know
When I bought mine, Whidden was the only one with them in stock, if you have Creedmoor bushing dies just get a .250 bushing and a 22-250 seater die. Whidden is worth the cost as they come with a number of bushing, plus additional decapping pins etc.
 
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A 22-250 seater will not work with a 22 Creedmoor. 22-250 has way too much body taper and is narrower in the body and base. A 22-250 seater with a sliding sleeve can be reamed with a 22 Creedmoor chamber reamer to make it work, however.


good to know, cheap is almost always the most costly in the end. Whidden all the way!
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Hey guys I need some help and should have done this before putting my 22 Creedmoor barrel for sale in the classifieds. I was able to get access to some private land near the end of last spring and it was infested with rockchucks. On impulse I bought a stuteville chambered 22 creedmoor 1-7 26 inch barrel for my Impact action but by time it arrived the season was over.
While doing break-in I was shooting and cleaning while in the hills and thought I saw my bullets blow up so I was like WTH. So I called Berger and Bartlein about RPM and other details. Long story short I was told I needed to keep Berger full bores to about 300,000 RPM which limited how quick I could push them. I randomly came across some Hornady 88 grain bullets so I bought 1,000 and thought I'd go that route.
I then called Bartlein in regards to my bullets blowing up in my 22 CM and I was told that the 22 CM needs to be treated like a Ferrari and the max rounds between cleaning is about 30. That really dampened my spirits because shit when I'm out shooting rock chucks this next spring I don't want to be stressing so much about keeping a low round count. I don't care if I need to clean when I'm home from an outing but I don't want an epic day cut short because I hit 30 freaking rounds. I'm hoping someone comes on here and tells me I'm crazy and must have heard wrong. Help? Sorry for long story
 
I picked up 200 LRP earlier. Ordered my rifle Tuesday and whidden die set today. I have 500 75eldm’s waiting to be loaded with H4350 or superformance. The rifle should be done in a month. It’s a fierce carbon rival. It’ll be my second one. My other is in a 300 PRC. I’m excited to try this little combo out.
 
Sorry to resurrect... This was one of the few accurate search results that Google delivered. Any direction on where to find a standardized 22 Creedmoor dummy round? I have a barrel manufacturer that needs 2 to throat a barrel to spec.
 
Sorry to resurrect... This was one of the few accurate search results that Google delivered. Any direction on where to find a standardized 22 Creedmoor dummy round? I have a barrel manufacturer that needs 2 to throat a barrel to spec.
There is a saami standard reamer with freebore adequate for most 80gr and lower weight bullets, including 85.5 gr bergers. If you want to run heavier than that more freebore is recommended. I believe the 95smk has the longest bearing surgace of them all. 90gr smk, 90gr atipa, 88gr eldm and 90 vlds descend from there. Dummy round coal and base to ogive totally depends on the bullet of your choosing.
 
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Looking for input on using Reloader 17 (have a few pounds when I used it for 65cm). Will be shooting 90 grain pills out of a 25" barrel, 1 in 7 twist.
Has anyone tried? How did it shoot?
What charge did you settle on?
 

22 Creed large pocket in stock at alpha right now!
Thanks for posting just got 500. Just need one of your priming tools :unsure:
 
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A 22-250 seater will not work with a 22 Creedmoor. 22-250 has way too much body taper and is narrower in the body and base. A 22-250 seater with a sliding sleeve can be reamed with a 22 Creedmoor chamber reamer to make it work, however.



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@orkan can you expand on how/what I'd need to utilize my 6mm creed seater die (redding type s comp) to seat 22 creed? On the road so not able research quickly. Is it as simple as getting a .224 seating stem?
 
@orkan can you expand on how/what I'd need to utilize my 6mm creed seater die (redding type s comp) to seat 22 creed? On the road so not able research quickly. Is it as simple as getting a .224 seating stem?
I just bought the Redding micrometer seating stem part number 09184. It’s made for vld bullets but I’ve read it works great for all bullet types.

 
@orkan can you expand on how/what I'd need to utilize my 6mm creed seater die (redding type s comp) to seat 22 creed? On the road so not able research quickly. Is it as simple as getting a .224 seating stem?
Yes, but its not optimal. The bullet support isn't as good, so there's more opportunity for shorter bullets to get off axis before going in the neck. Though it depends on the die design heavily. Some companies use the same dimensions for the entire family of cases.
 
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I just necked down 300 cases of Alpha OCD 6mm Creedmoor brass. I wasn't able to find 22cm but really no biggie. I plan on shooting the ELD 88 grain bullet. Anyone have a ballpark starting load for H4350?? I was thinking 39 grains but wanted to see if anyone had on opinion???
 
I just necked down 300 cases of Alpha OCD 6mm Creedmoor brass. I wasn't able to find 22cm but really no biggie. I plan on shooting the ELD 88 grain bullet. Anyone have a ballpark starting load for H4350?? I was thinking 39 grains but wanted to see if anyone had on opinion???
I thought a "start load" was supposed to be easily safe... not riding right on the edge of a full load?

Try 35gr as an entry point there bub. The bearing surface is long, and hornady bullets run oversize. Neither of these facts is forgiving of a tight bore... and you'd rather be under charge than right on the edge if you've got one and don't know it.


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I thought a "start load" was supposed to be easily safe... not riding right on the edge of a full load?

Try 35gr as an entry point there bub. The bearing surface is long, and hornady bullets run oversize. Neither of these facts is forgiving of a tight bore... and you'd rather be under charge than right on the edge if you've got one and don't know it.


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That’s why I was asking first and did you really call me bub?? Never had a 22CM. Regardless thanks
 
So I was reading some of the beginning of this thread where people were experimenting with RL26, Retumbo, I believe H1000. I’m curious what people are using for the heavier bullets. It seems like H4350 was used for Berger 80.5 bullets. I’m starting off with ELD 88 grain bullets and wondering what would be optimal. I’m a bit concerned over the twist of my barrel being 1-7 twist 26 Bartlein and wanting to avoid velocity that gets rpm too high. I’m going to use a Omega 300 suppressor and don’t want the jacket coming apart. If anyone has some advice or recommendations then please reply.
Thanks Shaun.
 
So I was reading some of the beginning of this thread where people were experimenting with RL26, Retumbo, I believe H1000. I’m curious what people are using for the heavier bullets. It seems like H4350 was used for Berger 80.5 bullets. I’m starting off with ELD 88 grain bullets and wondering what would be optimal. I’m a bit concerned over the twist of my barrel being 1-7 twist 26 Bartlein and wanting to avoid velocity that gets rpm too high. I’m going to use a Omega 300 suppressor and don’t want the jacket coming apart. If anyone has some advice or recommendations then please reply.
Thanks Shaun.
You're going to want around 180-200k freebore to keep the 88s up in the neck. rl26 will provide the most speed, H1000 will give decent velocity and provide the coolest flame temp, promoting the best barrel life.
 
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Figured I'd share my experience so far with 22 CM. 24", 1:7 twist PVA barrel. AIAT w/Razor G2. Starting with Hornady 6mm CM brass, annealed, running through a 6mm neck die (0.275" to 0.262") without an expander, then the Hornady FL sizer die, neck is 0.252" OD. Not sure if the step in between in necessary, ran some through the 22CM FL die and it looks fine anyway. Just to be safe I'm planning on doing in 2 steps. RCBS Matchmaster die was trash for 95s and 88s. Used the Forster 6mm CM seater die until I got the Whidden 22 CM seater die. Both of those worked great.

95 SMK, H1000, 0.060" jump (50 deg F)
36.5: 2588
37.0: 2614
37.5: 2660
38.0: 2677
38.5: 2704
39.0: 2733
39.5: 2775
40.0: 2784
Biggest ugliest groups I've ever handloaded for anything and much slower than I expected. ~MOA up to 38.0 then up to 3-4 MOA. No sign of getting better. No idea what was happening but abandoned that combo.

Same process on the brass. Hornady 88 ELD-M w/ RL26 (28 deg F)
40.5: 2697
41.0: 2993
41.2: 3018
41.4: 3036
41.6: 3073
41.8: 3076
42.0: 3109
42.2: 3118
42.4: 3141
42.6: 3177
42.8: 3184
43.0: 3204

Went back to 41.7 to do some seating depth testing. Accuracy was there. Ran some fireformed brass through a whidden bushing die and accuracy improved more.
 
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