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.224 Valkyrie
- Thread starter Niles Coyote
- Start date
Ya well the g7 is what is supposed to be done for the vld but sierra don't list the g7 for them so for a sort of apples to apples comparison......g1, unless someone has a g7 of the smk's?
ah mine changed back to g7
had to relook at this one and redo.... had too many tabs with jbm and it don't work to good going back and forth.
Freaking 3rd times the charm, jbm is wrong on the 88gr eld-m specs.
Freaking 3rd times the charm, jbm is wrong on the 88gr eld-m specs.
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With what powder? I've went from reloader15(too slow), varget, cfe223.....cfe223 did really good and varget was decent.....got up to 28** with I think varget….someone forgot to write some things down
I was up to 25.6gr of cfe223 and was good yet. I have about 5 loadings on the same 50pcs of brass and all is fine so far, I've been watching closely. The only reason I have had to through brass away was split necks.
I have a new/used fx120i scale w/ dandy trickler coming, had a LnL iron press coming but decided against it sense I have most all the lil stuff that I need for this caliber, so I ordered a Coax, frankford arsenal hand primer, k&m SS mandrels, Sinclair case run out gage, lee powder throw...….can't wait till all this crap comes and I get my room ready so I don't have to go to my uncles for the press and some other items I didn't have or room for yet. Now just need to figure out if I want to continue on with 88's or go elsewhere.
With what powder? I've went from reloader15(too slow), varget, cfe223.....cfe223 did really good and varget was decent.....got up to 28** with I think varget….someone forgot to write some things down
I was up to 25.6gr of cfe223 and was good yet. I have about 5 loadings on the same 50pcs of brass and all is fine so far, I've been watching closely. The only reason I have had to through brass away was split necks.
I have a new/used fx120i scale w/ dandy trickler coming, had a LnL iron press coming but decided against it sense I have most all the lil stuff that I need for this caliber, so I ordered a Coax, frankford arsenal hand primer, k&m SS mandrels, Sinclair case run out gage, lee powder throw...….can't wait till all this crap comes and I get my room ready so I don't have to go to my uncles for the press and some other items I didn't have or room for yet. Now just need to figure out if I want to continue on with 88's or go elsewhere.
Saw ejector marks on 25.1 and 25.4 with H4895 and 80 ELD....No marks below 25.1. Velocity the say all be all. I'll take accuracy over velocity all day long.
I picked up Starline brass a few weeks ago and shot some decent groups with it. After reloading the brass for the first time I've seen a real drop in accuracy. Federal though I've got 5 reloads on and honestly it's shot better. I'm newer to the whole reloading thing so be gentle. Is there something I need to do in particular to starline that I haven't done with the Federal?
AR platform, 1/7, 24" and so far best groupings at 100 yards are about .75 with 88 ELD-M with 25.5 and 25.9 CFE223. 95 SMKs so far are just terrible for me with CFE or RL17 (26.1 grains).
AR platform, 1/7, 24" and so far best groupings at 100 yards are about .75 with 88 ELD-M with 25.5 and 25.9 CFE223. 95 SMKs so far are just terrible for me with CFE or RL17 (26.1 grains).
Did you measure and record your neck tension in both situations (unfired brass load versus once fired brass load)?
It’s simplest for me, being lazy and all, to point you to a video. Here you go:
A set of decent calipers, preferably digital, is a good first measuring tool to get for precision loads.
I confess that I did not view this whole video (see mention of laziness above) but Gunwerks is generally pretty good. Let me know if I need to find a better vid for this...
A set of decent calipers, preferably digital, is a good first measuring tool to get for precision loads.
I confess that I did not view this whole video (see mention of laziness above) but Gunwerks is generally pretty good. Let me know if I need to find a better vid for this...
Autoloaders are generally .002-.003" and bolt actions usually .001-.002" but those are just loose numbers. I've shot most rifles everything from .001-.006 and really haven't seen a drastic change in precision. SDs can be a bit better with lighter neck tension but YMMV.
It is generally considered that 0.002” +/- neck tension is optimal for bolt guns and maybe 0.003” +/- for semis/ARs. That means that the neck of the empty case after sizing should be 0.002”-0.003” less than your finished loaded round with the bullet in it.
You should take the time to read the various sticky threads in the Reloading section that are very detailed and an excellent primer for precision reloading. Then read the intro and extras to a good reloading manual like Hornady or Sierra. It’s a bit of homework, but the payoff is a better general understanding of how to safely make a good consistent precision round.
Edit before post: Subwrx300 beat me to it, but I’m still posting this...
You should take the time to read the various sticky threads in the Reloading section that are very detailed and an excellent primer for precision reloading. Then read the intro and extras to a good reloading manual like Hornady or Sierra. It’s a bit of homework, but the payoff is a better general understanding of how to safely make a good consistent precision round.
Edit before post: Subwrx300 beat me to it, but I’m still posting this...
Supposedly these tools from mountsplus have been discontinued but I thought I would order anyway and see what happens......
https://www.mountsplus.com/case-saver-primer-pocket-swage-small-punch-anvil-set.html
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/tired-of-loose-pockets-i-was-but-not-no-more.3862744/
This all has been floating around on fb, thought I'd share.....
https://www.mountsplus.com/case-saver-primer-pocket-swage-small-punch-anvil-set.html
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/tired-of-loose-pockets-i-was-but-not-no-more.3862744/
This all has been floating around on fb, thought I'd share.....
I just grabbed 600 more 80 ELD-M from Powder Valley. They still have some if anyone is looking.
Can someone tell me which brass I can actually re-use from the factory ammo I am about to test out? I have a few boxes of every .224 round I could find so far.
I remember reading that they were crimping the primers which made them not worth keeping. I am sometimes wrong about what I remember...
Thanks!
I remember reading that they were crimping the primers which made them not worth keeping. I am sometimes wrong about what I remember...
Thanks!
Anything except factory Hornady 88eld can be released with no removal of crimp primer pocket.
Well, I shot an 0.54" group with the Sierra 95's the other day, at 100 yards in less than ideal conditions (damn cold). I know this doesn't compare to the one-holers that some of you have put up, but it's the best so far for my Val, with any bullet. For a 70 year old guy, I'm happy with it. My rifle has a 24" 6.7T barrel. The load was 25.4 gr of PP2000-MR, Starline once-fired, Fed 405M primer, CBTO 1.170". I always measure off the ogive for non-tipped bullets. I didn't set up my chrono, but Sierra sez this one should be flying at around 2550 fps. The only problem is, I think the carbon solvent manufacturers are getting rich from people who shoot PP2000-MR...
PP 2000mr is currently my go to powder, velocites and accuracy is outstanding for me. But yeah, it is some dirty stuff and my cleaning media and supply of carbon solvent is taking a hit.
Does everyone know how to verify your 224v has the actual saami spec chamber?
Basically take a 90 grn smk and load it to 2.280 and if you're not into the lands most likely you have the bad reamer barrel..from what I understand the RDF's and 80 eldm's work great in the long freebore barrel
I'm thinking about giving it another shot via a criterion or rainier ultra match barrel
Basically take a 90 grn smk and load it to 2.280 and if you're not into the lands most likely you have the bad reamer barrel..from what I understand the RDF's and 80 eldm's work great in the long freebore barrel
I'm thinking about giving it another shot via a criterion or rainier ultra match barrel
Here is a load I worked up to and just need to adjust seating depth for better accuracy. I am still waiting on an oal gauge to get precise distance from lands measurements. I contacted my barrel manufacturer and it has the longer freebore. I have also modified my magazines to run an oal if 2.360” if need be without any issues with feeding or function.
24” 6.5 twist Bison Armory
Once fired federal
Rem 7 1/2 primers
24.7 grains imr4320
HbN Coated 88 ELD-M @2.300”
2740fps average and sd of 5
Once I get a new gas block I will retest everything as my SLR adjustable won’t run my handloads even set to full open. It runs 75 American Eagle just fine. I also have cfe 223 to try with 90 and 95 smk’s in the future with starline brass.
24” 6.5 twist Bison Armory
Once fired federal
Rem 7 1/2 primers
24.7 grains imr4320
HbN Coated 88 ELD-M @2.300”
2740fps average and sd of 5
Once I get a new gas block I will retest everything as my SLR adjustable won’t run my handloads even set to full open. It runs 75 American Eagle just fine. I also have cfe 223 to try with 90 and 95 smk’s in the future with starline brass.
How far off the lands were you with the 85's?
I've heard they love to jump 40-60 thou
Can you post photo? I've got 3 PRIs and, honestly, I can't see how I could make then fit any longer. They are pretty thin up front and no binder plate.
I've modified several other mags for longer OALs but I guess I'm not seeing how you could do this with a PRI.
Thanks!
My buddy does this.. you don't even need to send the case in.. you can just measure it then tell them to go 4 thou smaller.. get yourself a carbide mandrel from Sinclair and u should be gtg
He’s talking about cutting a window in the front of the magazine. The tip of the bullet protrudes out of the mag.
https://www.cavitybackbullets.com/product-p/cb-pri-mod-mag.htm
Wow. I thought that's what he was saying but I just didn't think anyone would actually do that to their magazines. You won't catch me doing that mod anytime soon. There's enough shit that can break or get fouled with dirt/dust debris on a semi already.
I don't need to give it a reason to fail early nor put more dirt in my chamber as the rounds collect more fouling/debris.
Good to know though!
Yes, they do. I've noticed better consistency with Wolf Small Rifle Magnum and Federal AR Match. I used to use CCI400...still do but in the 224 Valkyrie and the 6.5 Grendel the WSRM and FedAR Match has been best for me in my Craddock 6.7t 20". It might be different for you depending on your barrel. Powerpro2000mr, CFE223, and RE15 have been the top notch performers for me with 75gr ELD-M, 88gr ELD-M, and 80gr Nosler CC. Wish someone made a ELD-X 90gr ?
I'm using a Redding FL die and a Hornady 6.8 SPC Seater with a .224 Amax stem and Hornady MicroJust. All was under $120 with sales and some savvy shopping on eBay! The ONLY thing that I can personally want to improve is maybe getting a Redding Type S Bushing die with a Carbide bushing.
But the Hornady Microjust is just awesome! I have one set up on my Hornady 6PPC seating die for the 6.5 Grendel with a 6.5mm Hornady Amax stem. Those Amax stems helped relieve the seating ring on my bullets all the way up to the 129gr ABLR in the grendel.
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Thats what I thought the first time I saw that. Then I did it for giggles not expecting much. 2k+ rounds later without a hiccup and it doesn't seem like such a bad idea.
Obviously if you live in a sand storm it's probably a terrible idea. I cut mine so the window is flush with the bottom of the magwell, nothing is getting in when the mag is in the gun. I have yet to notice any dirt or debris getting in there.
Federal AR Match are basically 205M with a thicker cup. These are a good compromise...very consistent for me.
Is a carbide mandrel absolutely necessary or will a SS work just as good?
I bought 2 .22 cal SS mandrels for the use in the Valkyrie and whatever .22 cal, and doing some research some say it just needs a little lube for the SS but the carbide is supposedly not necessary and I had also read that it wouldn’t hurt to have lube on a carbide mandrel anyway, like a dry lube of some sort?
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I believe he said he uses the carbide because it resizes it 2 thou.. which gives him exactly 2 thou neck tension..
I'll see if he still has an account on here.maybe he can chime in
My stainless ones measures: exactly .222 and .223 on the other, so now I can have .002” and .001” neck tension....but ya let me know what he says.
I’m pretty sure ppl use carbide because it’s “slicker” or something.
I'd reckon the carbide lasts longer without changing size, but I am also not a metallurgist even 1%
Carbide and TiN are much slicker, no lube. You will need to lube those
Awesome! Now I’m kind of new to reloading, without tumbling how can I get the brass clean or does it really matter? I know it maybe a stupid question but will it affect anything?
It will affect the appearance is all unless it is caked in carbon or has crap impregnated in the brass. Just remember if you wet tumble you will have to dry lube the inside of the necks. Tumbling in corn cob or walnut you will be fine as there is still some carbon left over in the neck for aide in bullet release. Bullets can cold weld in the neck after sitting too long causing bad es and sd readings. If I want pretty reloads I size and then tumble, followed by normal reloading process after.
Update on this load
24” 6.5 twist Bison Armory
Once fired federal
Rem 7 1/2 primers
24.7 grains imr4320
HbN Coated 88 ELD-M @2.300”
2740fps average and sd of 5
I ended up installing an Odinworks adjustable gas block and also drilling my gas port to .086” using a number 44 bit. The original port was .081” and wouldn’t cycle this load. The reloads run great now and will be doing some seating depth tests tomorrow weather permitting. Still waiting on a oal gauge but can’t wait to shoot so just going to wing it.
24” 6.5 twist Bison Armory
Once fired federal
Rem 7 1/2 primers
24.7 grains imr4320
HbN Coated 88 ELD-M @2.300”
2740fps average and sd of 5
I ended up installing an Odinworks adjustable gas block and also drilling my gas port to .086” using a number 44 bit. The original port was .081” and wouldn’t cycle this load. The reloads run great now and will be doing some seating depth tests tomorrow weather permitting. Still waiting on a oal gauge but can’t wait to shoot so just going to wing it.
Has anyone picked up a bag of 100 224v federal brass?
I know brian whalen was saying he liked the federal brass, but I've had good luck with starline...
Help me decide!
I know brian whalen was saying he liked the federal brass, but I've had good luck with starline...
Help me decide!
Rifle length gas. To make it fool proof with reloads and using an adjustable gas block I think .089” would be optimal. Rifle is running great now, but have to run the block wide open to lock back with my reloads.
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