Midsouth has Hornady 300 PRC brass in stock as of this post.
Wow, looks like it's OOS already.
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Wow, looks like it's OOS already.
thanks davethedog, I do use a comparator. My brass is going on it's second firing, I only size the neck on new brass and then bump the shoulder back .002 there after. I haven't taken any shoulder measurements on the twice fired brass yet but will and report back with the once and twice fire brass shoulder measurements.Are you using a comparator before and after sizing? I assume so if you are measuring your bump. Are the cases growing back exactly the same amount each time?
Midsouth has Hornady 300 PRC brass in stock as of this post.
I'm noticing a disturbing trend, factory H225 that was $38 a box, went to $45 a while back. Now I'm seeing it advertised at $60 a box even though it's not in stock and no backorders. Man, I hope the factory stuff isn't going to be $60 a box, I always like to keep some around, but geeeeeeezus.
Are you using a comparator before and after sizing? I assume so if you are measuring your bump. Are the cases growing back exactly the same amount each time?
Just got in from testing some 245gr Berger EOL's. I'll say...I set them up to fail...and they didn't. Here is the process I went through.
I loaded the 245's to the same powder charge of my 230 A-Tips. The Bergers are of course 15 grains heavier....just a smidge longer...but the bearing surface is really close. Percentage wise...there isn't that much difference in the rear geometery. Ok....so I just stuck some powder in...and then I seated these long ass bullets without changing my seating stem....and they are barely CIP Length magazine capable.
Shot a 5 round control group with the 230gr A-Tips.... 1/2" group with a speed averageing 2880fps. Shot a group of Bergers.... 2860fps...1/2" group.....this is on a 32F and raining day! Gotta like that. I removed the MagnetoSpeedV3 and moved my barrel tuner from the '4' setting to the '0' setting....I was also shooting for the very first time a new Area 419 Sidewinder Magnum brake...so that could alter the harmonics slightly. Dialed to '0' and shot a .477" group....I'll call it a day.
Almost zero load development. I'll take some of the 245's to TVP when I can...stretch them out to a mile and true the BC in my calc. For the $20-$30 lower price point than the 230gr A-Tips....as long as they are close...I'll probably switch over to the Bergers...but...but...I need to test them in the spring when the weather warms up and I want to load them longer...single feed...and get the speeds up to above 2950fps....but awaiting the Lapua brass before I start getting crazy again.
All in all it was a good day...I would post pics...but the wetness tore the targets...they were stapled to plastic backers and they were glued to them with the water....no special groups...nothing tiny...but some good solid 1/2" groups. Was also working with the Pheonix Bipod....I still gotta learn to not try to load the bipod....it simply moves away from you on a bench....my groups could have been epic...but I was getting vertical from inconsistent.....well...everything. Next time...I'll probably take the Atlas.
More data for the 245's in a week or so....at distance.
Can’t speak to anything other than the Redding but they have been sizing for me very well. On a Sinclair gauge I’m getting about .5-1 thou runout which is acceptable for me.Just ordered a Savage Elite Precision in 300 PRC
Savage Elite Precision
I have Hornady brass, some Ramshot Magnum and some H1000 and just ordered:
Berger Long Range Hybrid Target Bullets 30 Caliber (308 Diameter) 220 Grain Hollow
I also have some Hornady bullets and am thinking about getting some A-Tips (expensive)
I need to order a die set and am wondering what the current consensus is on best die set is for this round?
I saw the post above about the Redding dies, so looking at that but am wondering about other die options?
Thanks!
I scored the last set from accurate arms and ammo, those guys are pretty nice. Luckily if you’ve got new brass, all you’ll need is an expander die to get started. Many people have good luck with the Hornady bushing dies as well. May be easier to come by given that it’s a Hornady cartridge.Thanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
I have been waiting two months for my Redding dies, should be two more weeks and the 300 PRC dies will hit the market again.Thanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
Yeah cool bro. I'm OK though I'll just wait. I've got a 6.5 PRC to keep me busy for now. I have dies and supplies for that.I scored the last set from accurate arms and ammo, those guys are pretty nice. Luckily if you’ve got new brass, all you’ll need is an expander die to get started. Many people have good luck with the Hornady bushing dies as well. May be easier to come by given that it’s a Hornady cartridge.
If you can’t find anything I don’t mind sizing them up for you while you hunt for some. I know that’s weird but it’s a genuine offer.
RCBS Match Master, mine are greatThanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
L.E. Wilson bushing bump dies areThanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
Try L.E. Wilson they have a full length bushing die that works really great for me.Thanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
I've got the Redding neck bushing die, full length die with neck bushing & Comp seater. Thumbs up on all three of those Redding dies. Also have the Wilson arbor press seating die. Limited testing has shown the Wilson to have lower concentricity and lower variation in base-to-ogive. I've got a Whidden set I plan to put up for sale.Thanks!
Any other ideas on dies?
I'd get the Redding or at this point any other die because I cannot find any 300 PRC dies in stock anywhere?
Any suggestions on where I might find dies in stock?
Thanks!
Been reading this thread. How'd this work out for you? I have a gain twist ordered, 1-9 to 1-8, but I will mostly shoot monolithic bullets.I bought a 8 twist barrel and then I had second thoughts. I ordered a second barrel in 10 twist. Now I can sleep at night knowing I have it covered.
Let me know when / if you want to sell that Whidden set.I've got the Redding neck bushing die, full length die with neck bushing & Comp seater. Thumbs up on all three of those Redding dies. Also have the Wilson arbor press seating die. Limited testing has shown the Wilson to have lower concentricity and lower variation in base-to-ogive. I've got a Whidden set I plan to put up for sale.
My favorite powder of all time. been using it for over 15 years.Just scored 8lbs of VV570. Was hesitant to get that much but it sounds like it should work well with the 245s.
I called Berger before I made the purchase (they put it on hold for me) to check before buying so much without testing and he said I shouldn't be on the phone with him but rather putting the order in for the powder LOL
Let me know when / if you want to sell that Whidden set.
Why are you selling? I thought these were good dies?
Thank you for the awesome data!
Any signs of excessive pressure?
What software is this a screen shot from?I started to do some load development with them, but decided to go with the 230s. I didn't notice a huge difference in torque, but I didn't spend a ton of time with them. I was pretty rushed that week.
I did some prelim work on your wildcat (I hope you appreciate the name). GRT says it can push the 250s at 3120 fps with 124 grains of N570
View attachment 7435646
I'm waiting on parts for a 300 PRC with similar hunting/target ambitions. Has anyone here tried the Hammer bullets in a 300 PRC? Thinking the 199 or 214 grain bullets.Been following this 300 PRC thread for a while.
I have a 26” CF Bartlein Barrel on order (since the end of June...) with a 9.5 twist rate. I am a hunter, but shoot at steel a fair amount (~2000 rounds per year) out to 1300 m. The 300 prc was bought ostensibly for elk, but that tends to be 1 week a year, leaving steel for the other 51 weeks.
I plan on mostly shooting 205 gr Berger Hybrid hunting rounds, but I like to test out different bullets and loads. I will probably stick to Bergers as I have had really good luck with them out of my 260 Rem, but I like to experiment.
I also load pretty conservatively, so I won’t be getting anything close to 3000 fps+ with heavier bullets.
So my question is whether you think the 9.5 twist rate will work well for what I want. It seems to stabilize well up to 220 gr, but then become marginal at more bullet weight.
Earlier I saw that Dave Tooley was going with 9.5, so that is reassuring, but this is my first “custom” rifle, and I don’t want to mess it up.
What software is this a screen shot from?
Thanks.So, we all know that ammo for the 300PRC is scare in the market place. We also know that finding reloading components have been frustratingly scarce as well. Powders hit websites and are sold out in mere seconds. Same with primers, bullets and brass. With ADG not planning to come to market with more 300PRC brass until months from now, and the Lapua release that may get back up into summer, what exactly are we to do? Buy Hornady brass? Have you tried finding that lately? It has been gobbled up off the market as well. With competition season approaching, many people are getting nervous about not having anything. I myself have lowered my powder loads on my 230gr A-Tips and my new 245gr EOL's just to baby my brass so it will last longer.
Well, let me give you an alternative. Just incase the brass of ADG and Lapua get pushed back to a point that makes it to where you can't shoot, let's walk through one of the simplest brass resizing/substitution jobs you will ever encounter. I'll walk through how to turn 375 Ruger brass into 300 PRC. Yes, going from the parent to the child case. After this you will see how simple it is, and you will see that it wasn't much innovation to take the 375 Ruger to the 300 PRC. Wildcatters did it first and Hornady just SAAMI spec'd it and called it Easy Money. The cartridge is my current favorite for 1000 to 2000 yards...and slightly beyond. Now...let's take a look.
So, I'm using my normal full length sizing die with the expander ball removed...I never run an expander ball. I'm using a 334 bushing. I would not use a non-bushing die because it squeezes down too small. I did not find it necessary to go bigger and do two or more sizing operations making the neck smaller each time. I did however only partially size in a few steps pushing the neck in and the shoulder back. Let's take a look:
View attachment 7532157
The 375 Ruger next to the 300PRC. You will notice that the cases are really close in OAL. You will notice that the 375 neck is much higher up and the shoulder angle is different. Everything else is very close, like body taper. So, I sprayed everything with Hornady One Shot and let dry. Next I attacked only half of the neck.
View attachment 7532159
You will notice I only did a partial neck sizing. Look how the brass being squeezed in for the new neck diameter and flowing down. I only did a partial size here, lifted the handle...and then gently went for the remainder of just the neck.
View attachment 7532163
Neck is done, but we haven't attacked that shoulder yet. What I do here is to slowly push that shoulder back...If for any reason I feel a little extra resistance, I'll pull back and do the shoulder in two steps just like I did with the neck. After the first one I measured and lowered my die just a few thou and finally got it to where the 375 Ruger was sized down and coming out within 0.0005....aka half a thou of my ADG brass measured from base to shoulder using a Short Action Customs 30 degree shoulder angle Comparator Gauge. They came out pretty nice.
View attachment 7532165
375 Ruger on the left and 300 PRC on the right. The surprising part is: After all this, I measured the OAL and came to 3.871 on all of them. I trim at 3.870 and my trimmer barely made a sound as I took these to 3.870. I ran them through a neck expander mandrel that slightly moved them out to what I prefer my neck tension to be. I will load these up and probably shoot them this weekend. I'll anneal them after and run them through the reloading process just like the ADG brass and see if some of that brass flows forward and grows. I will see just how much brass I have to trim. I'm expecting a little flow forward. We will see. If I do see a donut forming I will neck ream and report my findings.
These should shoot just wonderful. The only problem they should have is the inherent primer pocket failures that are known in Hornady brass. I hope this tutorial will help at least one person who may be stuck in a situation where they want to shoot their 300PRC but either have no brass, or they are afraid of damaging/losing the precious little they have.
Any concern on a donut forming inside? Have you checked with a plug guage?
B2lee, do you have to turn the necks on the necked down 375 Ruger brass? Also what do you use to ream the necks if a donut does form?Food for thought.... Nosler makes 375 Ruger brass.......
Try finding some...Food for thought.... Nosler makes 375 Ruger brass.......
B2lee, do you have to turn the necks on the necked down 375 Ruger brass? Also what do you use to ream the necks if a donut does form?
Try finding some...![]()
HI,Some recent load testing in the AXMC with 27" barrel. N565 and RL26 with the Hornady 225 ELDM. Virgin Hornady brass and F210M. 40 degrees and a DA of 200.
The N565 load was much hotter than I expected. Heavy bolt lift at 79.6 and up. I'll probably re-run the test in the 76gr area.
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I picked up some 375 Ruger brass and sized it down. My first attempt failed and I wound up removing the bushing from my die to do the initial sizing. I reinstalled the bushing and ran them through again to finish sizing the neck and to bump the shoulder back to match my Hornady 300PRC brass. I also ran them through my mandrel die to expand the necks.So, we all know that ammo for the 300PRC is scare in the market place. We also know that finding reloading components have been frustratingly scarce as well. Powders hit websites and are sold out in mere seconds. Same with primers, bullets and brass. With ADG not planning to come to market with more 300PRC brass until months from now, and the Lapua release that may get back up into summer, what exactly are we to do? Buy Hornady brass? Have you tried finding that lately? It has been gobbled up off the market as well. With competition season approaching, many people are getting nervous about not having anything. I myself have lowered my powder loads on my 230gr A-Tips and my new 245gr EOL's just to baby my brass so it will last longer.
Well, let me give you an alternative. Just incase the brass of ADG and Lapua get pushed back to a point that makes it to where you can't shoot, let's walk through one of the simplest brass resizing/substitution jobs you will ever encounter. I'll walk through how to turn 375 Ruger brass into 300 PRC. Yes, going from the parent to the child case. After this you will see how simple it is, and you will see that it wasn't much innovation to take the 375 Ruger to the 300 PRC. Wildcatters did it first and Hornady just SAAMI spec'd it and called it Easy Money. The cartridge is my current favorite for 1000 to 2000 yards...and slightly beyond. Now...let's take a look.
So, I'm using my normal full length sizing die with the expander ball removed...I never run an expander ball. I'm using a 334 bushing. I would not use a non-bushing die because it squeezes down too small. I did not find it necessary to go bigger and do two or more sizing operations making the neck smaller each time. I did however only partially size in a few steps pushing the neck in and the shoulder back. Let's take a look:
View attachment 7532157
The 375 Ruger next to the 300PRC. You will notice that the cases are really close in OAL. You will notice that the 375 neck is much higher up and the shoulder angle is different. Everything else is very close, like body taper. So, I sprayed everything with Hornady One Shot and let dry. Next I attacked only half of the neck.
View attachment 7532159
You will notice I only did a partial neck sizing. Look how the brass being squeezed in for the new neck diameter and flowing down. I only did a partial size here, lifted the handle...and then gently went for the remainder of just the neck.
View attachment 7532163
Neck is done, but we haven't attacked that shoulder yet. What I do here is to slowly push that shoulder back...If for any reason I feel a little extra resistance, I'll pull back and do the shoulder in two steps just like I did with the neck. After the first one I measured and lowered my die just a few thou and finally got it to where the 375 Ruger was sized down and coming out within 0.0005....aka half a thou of my ADG brass measured from base to shoulder using a Short Action Customs 30 degree shoulder angle Comparator Gauge. They came out pretty nice.
View attachment 7532165
375 Ruger on the left and 300 PRC on the right. The surprising part is: After all this, I measured the OAL and came to 3.871 on all of them. I trim at 3.870 and my trimmer barely made a sound as I took these to 3.870. I ran them through a neck expander mandrel that slightly moved them out to what I prefer my neck tension to be. I will load these up and probably shoot them this weekend. I'll anneal them after and run them through the reloading process just like the ADG brass and see if some of that brass flows forward and grows. I will see just how much brass I have to trim. I'm expecting a little flow forward. We will see. If I do see a donut forming I will neck ream and report my findings.
These should shoot just wonderful. The only problem they should have is the inherent primer pocket failures that are known in Hornady brass. I hope this tutorial will help at least one person who may be stuck in a situation where they want to shoot their 300PRC but either have no brass, or they are afraid of damaging/losing the precious little they have.
Looking forward to seeing your results.@JBarton very good. I'll be at the range tomorrow at around 1pm ET....shooting my 375 Ruger brass. I'll be looking for brass growth....but I'll also measure speeds and groups. I did just spin on my old barrel with like 1338 rounds on it...I'm not going to go test with my new barrel. They were made with the same reamer/smith and the fired brass from one to the other are within half a thou...
I'm pretty sure the groups will suck...because the barrels are different lengths....the new one has a different brake and the ATS tuner. The old barrel...I'm just going to run it with a Lil'B brake and no tuner....and loads are CIP length....so if it shoots a 1/2" group it will be more luck of picking a seating depth than anything. I'll be shooting 49 rounds tomorrow. I saved 1 piece of brass as a show piece...a conversation piece with people at the range.
I'll post something tomorrow night.
You are using large rifle instead of magnum primers and it is working out for you? Very nice, do you still start the load 10% under when you are switching primers? I am still kind of new to reloading....Some recent load testing in the AXMC with 27" barrel. N565 and RL26 with the Hornady 225 ELDM. Virgin Hornady brass and F210M. 40 degrees and a DA of 200.
The N565 load was much hotter than I expected. Heavy bolt lift at 79.6 and up. I'll probably re-run the test in the 76gr area.
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