300 PRC update
- Thread starter DAVETOOLEY
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I would definitely use the H4831 to break in if it’s a new barrel.
I always use off powders to fire form and get barrels up to speed.
H4831 is a fantastic powder anyway and always seems to shoot great.
@Steel head that is the direction I was thinking of going. The H4831sc did well in my 300WM and I'm sure it will do good in the 300PRC. It won't push as fast but it will save me from wasting my more desirable powders.
Thanks.
I'm starting to reload for 300 PRC and I am looking to make a good Elk hunting round. Would either the Nosler Partition 220 Grain Semi Spitzer or the Norma Oryx 200 Grain Bonded Protected Point be suitable for 300 PRC? I've searched everywhere for 212 gr. ELD-X but of course it's not available anywhere that I can find. Would either of the previously mentioned be a suitable replacement?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Midway had some 220gr ELDX. Used them in a throated 300WM and they did great on an elk at 581yds. I plan on running them in my PRC as well. I've also been shooting them out to a mile in my 300WM.
Last year I started with the 212ELDX and 225ELDM. My rifle shot the 225's just a little better. I had a 3/8 mild steel plate at 600 yards and the ELDM went through the steel no problem. The eldX did not even leave a dent. With this data I figured the ELDM would have no problem going through a elk shoulder if needed. I like the idea of more penetration vs sharpnel. Ive taken some black bears and antelope with the 140gr ELdM out of a Cm. I think the ELDM's are wicked lethal.
For me the 225's have more knetic energy at distance than the 212's. I think this is an important factor. I read it's recommend to be above 1500ftlbs of energy for elk. The 212 for me has 1490ftlbs @ 1000yards where the 225 has 1963ftlbs @ 1000. If the circumstances are right I feel more comfortable with the 225 at or over 1000yards just for the extra energy. Plus a more accurate in my rifle.
I used all my elk points last year and took the 225ELDM. I had areas to shoot 800-1200yards. But no elk to test on. Another story. Can't say for sure what they 225's do to a elk. I've got a spring bear tag I plan on using the 225ELDM's. Seems like the 225 is just a heavy large bullet it will be hard for it shrapnel. Unless your shooting it wildly fast. I did alot of research on using match bullets on game, there are a lot of variables. Im more from the "shot placement is key" camp,I don't like wasting meat, and I don't want any blood shot or bullet fragments in my meat. However if I had to shoot a elk in the shoulder I would not have heisitated. Im not shooting ELDMs wildly fast. Too fast sure they might explode on impact. Lots of people will have positives and negatives to say about every bullet. Just need the right tool for the right job. I spent 30 years bow hunting only. I've only been rifle hunting for 2 years. 2018 first animal taken with a rifle. All that said, if I hunting under 500-600 yards I'd go ELDx. Advertised not to sharpnel. Past that distance I like ELDMS.
So to answer your original questions, dont worry about not finding ELDX's
Sorry for the long post. Got my rifle ready for bears yesterday and I just had coffee.
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I saw your post too late...ELDX are gone now.
Edit: Was going through a stash and found some ELD X I had bought for 300 blackout...believe I'll just move those to the PRC stash now lol.
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You need a "Ring Die" I had one made for another caliber that was having issues.
I've been seeing more and more components lately. Hopefully it's a sign that things are getting better. The 220gr ELDX were in stock for a few days, if that says anything.
Mid May...and things will be somewhat back to normal....if election cycle panic buying still holds to form.....yea...this was the perfect storm of the other factors...but I think come late May...we'll be in the clear.
There are a lot of people that are going to start asking themselves....'wtf do I do with all this ammo now?'...because they bought stuff just to be buying stuff. I know someone that still has half a garage full of toilet paper.....the other half is ammo....I think he is done for the next 10 years on both.
There are a lot of people that are going to start asking themselves....'wtf do I do with all this ammo now?'...because they bought stuff just to be buying stuff. I know someone that still has half a garage full of toilet paper.....the other half is ammo....I think he is done for the next 10 years on both.
Finally got my barreled action back. Can't wait to get this out and see what it will do.
I'm having some issues getting the brass to cycle in the mag. I'm running 300wm 3.850" accurate mags. I'm probably going to have to tweak it, just was hoping for some insight on what needs to be done. Looks like I will have to do some adjustments on the chassis. I'll have to tinker with it.
I'm having some issues getting the brass to cycle in the mag. I'm running 300wm 3.850" accurate mags. I'm probably going to have to tweak it, just was hoping for some insight on what needs to be done. Looks like I will have to do some adjustments on the chassis. I'll have to tinker with it.
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Anyone seen this?
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
You might need a slightly extended mag latch, or you can try opening the front of the feed lips a smidge. Can you post a short video of the feeding issue?
Just to clarify, this is the inside of the brass, and it goes all the way around? It can be super hard to tell whether it’s a burr or a crack. Cut one of the cases in half lengthwise with a hacksaw or something and see which it is and if there’s any thinning (if not, it’s probably safe to shoot, but bring pliers in case). Probably worth sending a note to Hornady with the brass lot number either way.
Wow, is that the only one or is there more? Ive had some case head separations but from my own doing. Either way it looks like a weak point that would stress and fail sooner than normal. If theres more I would contact Hornady customer service and get it swapped out.
I had to adjust the mag catch on my MPA initially. It was strange. The first round would cycle fine, but after firing (not just dry cycling) the second round wouldn’t cycle. Loosened the mag catch and then the second round cycled but the third wouldn’t feed. It would start to feed but as the tip of the bullet hit the feed ramp the head of the case angled too low and the bolt couldn’t push it any more. I widened the mag feed lips ever so slightly and now everything works fine. I measured the height of the bullet in the magazine as I went to make sure I didn’t go crazy with it.
I wish it was only one-
650 pieces. The ones in the zip locks are the 100 packs that I purchased from MidSouth. One box of 50 Hornady branded. They all have it.
I pulled some TAP and ELDM 225 factory ammunition tonight. None had the crevice/crack?
Thats crazy. As long as they are unfired, Hornady will most likely take them back.
Something wrong in their drawing/forming process. I hope they have stuff in stock to swap those out.
First firing - you can catch a nail in the marks.
Second firing -
I sent pictures to gfrear at Hornady 3-18-21. He said he had seen if before and thought it was a problem when he first saw it, but he checked with the engineers and they told him the crevices/cracks were normal?
Hornady brass is already low grade to begin with, add in a defect right at the place where case head separation occurs. Its like the perforation on a paper towel. Destined to fail.
Check your chamber, it puts nice fire cuts in it where it blew through.
A sniper from the war in Afghanistan at my local gun shop says he fire forms his brass by basically creating blank rounds for his competition WinMag. He says he only puts about 6 or 7 grains of powder in each case, just enough to get the case hot enough to fire form. That way you dont end up wasting good powder or projectiles by loading a full charge into it. Dont know if he is BS'ing or not but it sounds plausible.
Funny, I torture tested 50 pieces of Hornady 300 PRC brass just to see. Also did my load development with it.
I got 7 firings out of mine before it got thin. Never got loose pockets. I have 250 pieces prepped with one firing for match use. Also pre ordered 1000 pieces of Lapua. Mine has been fine for the $.
I'm not pushing it super hard either.
215s at 2975.
I got 7 firings out of mine before it got thin. Never got loose pockets. I have 250 pieces prepped with one firing for match use. Also pre ordered 1000 pieces of Lapua. Mine has been fine for the $.
I'm not pushing it super hard either.
215s at 2975.
This has been done for a long time, using pistol powder with cream of wheat or toilet paper as padding. I wouldn’t personally mess with it given the minuscule difference between virgin and fired brass—it’s not like you are making a wildcat here. Plus you still use primers which are the scarcest reloading component.
I've looked at the cream-o-wheat method. I'm going to measure the factory loaded ammo after firing it to see how much growth I will have. I've got 100 212gr precision hunter rounds that I was going to use to help break in the barrel with and I'm probably going to use my H4831sc with some match kings to finish it off with and to fire form my other brass.
If I can figure out my magazine feeding issues sooner than later I should start the break in this week hopefully.
I have the same but not as pronounced. I'll pull some more virgin and 1x cases to see what they may show.
@gnochi I made a feed lip tool out of some flat bar at work and adjusted my magazine when I got home. It seems to have fixed my problem. I've cycled multiple loads through the magazine and action to test it out and it's doing well. If I run into any other issues I will get a video of it. Thank you for the help.
Jeremy
Jeremy
I always shoot my fire forming loads at steel
They always shoot pretty damn good.
Thinking of getting a new barrel for my 300 prc. What's the consensus on twist and length? Want to have some versatility on bullet weight. Currently have 225s and 230s but want to have the ability to go lighter. Currently a 1/8 26 inch and it rem varmint profile and it doesn't like under 230s and struggles to get speed with 230s. Thinking straight profile 30 inches.
Looks a lot like the one I made for mine. Must be the magazine. Mine is an accurate mag also.
My new Bartlein is enroute, it is 26in, LH gain twist, 1:9 to 1:8, 400mod. Those specs are partly due to my desire to use it for hunting and run the 214 Hammer Hunter monos. I will report back when I have some rounds through it.
FYI: Redding Type-S Elite bushing die set: https://www.brunoshooters.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60776
Wow! I just bought the same die from them for $90 less, they have raised their prices.
It's a good sign for arrival over here if there's evidence they are actually coming off the line.
@b2lee, went out to the hills again today to throw some more projectiles. I'll say that it was an insanely epic day - and not only for the shooting. Video forthcoming. On the bad side, I ran some 245s and I fell just short of being able to get to the same velocity as my 230s. At 73.4 gr of RL26, I got 2868, which is right where my node for my 230s is. Then 2878 at 73.7 grand back down to 2868 at 74.0. So, as expected, the velocity node held. The bad news is that I got heavy bolt lift at the last two. I'm wondering if a slower burning powder might get me there. Have you played at all with RL33, Retumbo, or my N570 (the three slower powders I have on hand)?
You may want to try some N570 or Retumbo....I didn't have any luck with Retumbo...but I could revisit since I have a longer barrel now.... 29.5".....RL-33 was a no go for me. I'm pushing the 245's over 2900fps with 75.0gr of RL-26....and I get heavy bolt lift on certain pieces of brass that have 8x reloads on them.
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