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Join the contest SubscribeI would definitely use the H4831 to break in if it’s a new barrel.So I have a question for whoever. I've got a limited supply if reloader 26 (4lbs) and H1000 (7lbs). I've also got about 7.5lbs of H4831sc. Should I save my rl26 and H1000 until after I've fire formed my brass or should I just start working up a load with each? I really don't want to waste any powder right now and could use the H4831sc to fire form. The H4831sc does well in my 300WM but not as good as the H1000. I was going to use it as my backup powder.
I'm undecided on which one to use.
@Steel head that is the direction I was thinking of going. The H4831sc did well in my 300WM and I'm sure it will do good in the 300PRC. It won't push as fast but it will save me from wasting my more desirable powders.I would definitely use the H4831 to break in if it’s a new barrel.
I always use off powders to fire form and get barrels up to speed.
H4831 is a fantastic powder anyway and always seems to shoot great.
Midway had some 220gr ELDX. Used them in a throated 300WM and they did great on an elk at 581yds. I plan on running them in my PRC as well. I've also been shooting them out to a mile in my 300WM.I'm starting to reload for 300 PRC and I am looking to make a good Elk hunting round. Would either the Nosler Partition 220 Grain Semi Spitzer or the Norma Oryx 200 Grain Bonded Protected Point be suitable for 300 PRC? I've searched everywhere for 212 gr. ELD-X but of course it's not available anywhere that I can find. Would either of the previously mentioned be a suitable replacement?
Thanks!
Last year I started with the 212ELDX and 225ELDM. My rifle shot the 225's just a little better. I had a 3/8 mild steel plate at 600 yards and the ELDM went through the steel no problem. The eldX did not even leave a dent. With this data I figured the ELDM would have no problem going through a elk shoulder if needed. I like the idea of more penetration vs sharpnel. Ive taken some black bears and antelope with the 140gr ELdM out of a Cm. I think the ELDM's are wicked lethal.I'm starting to reload for 300 PRC and I am looking to make a good Elk hunting round. Would either the Nosler Partition 220 Grain Semi Spitzer or the Norma Oryx 200 Grain Bonded Protected Point be suitable for 300 PRC? I've searched everywhere for 212 gr. ELD-X but of course it's not available anywhere that I can find. Would either of the previously mentioned be a suitable replacement?
I saw your post too late...ELDX are gone now.Midway had some 220gr ELDX. Used them in a throated 300WM and they did great on an elk at 581yds. I plan on running them in my PRC as well. I've also been shooting them out to a mile in my 300WM.
You need a "Ring Die" I had one made for another caliber that was having issues.I’m having exactly the same issue. By the third firing the bolt is extremely difficult to open, and I’m not shooting an overly aggressive load - Defiance Deviant, 28” Bartlein, 76 gr RL 26 and ADG brass at 2900.
Called Whidden and am told it’s an ADG brass issue but they’ll custom size a replacement die (nearly 4+ month wait)
Alex Wheeler discusses the issue here and says it’s a chamber/die issue.
It’s frustrating to say the least as I don’t want to ruin unobtainable ADG brass by shooting it any further without a workable solution.
I've been seeing more and more components lately. Hopefully it's a sign that things are getting better. The 220gr ELDX were in stock for a few days, if that says anything.I saw your post too late...ELDX are gone now.
Edit: Was going through a stash and found some ELD X I had bought for 300 blackout...believe I'll just move those to the PRC stash now lol.
Well I think I just need to tweak the magazine a little.
View attachment 7587666
Just to clarify, this is the inside of the brass, and it goes all the way around? It can be super hard to tell whether it’s a burr or a crack. Cut one of the cases in half lengthwise with a hacksaw or something and see which it is and if there’s any thinning (if not, it’s probably safe to shoot, but bring pliers in case). Probably worth sending a note to Hornady with the brass lot number either way.Anyone seen this?
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
View attachment 7587784
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
View attachment 7587789
Wow, is that the only one or is there more? Ive had some case head separations but from my own doing. Either way it looks like a weak point that would stress and fail sooner than normal. If theres more I would contact Hornady customer service and get it swapped out.Anyone seen this?
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
View attachment 7587784
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
View attachment 7587789
Well I think I just need to tweak the magazine a little.
View attachment 7587666
Wow, is that the only one or is there more? Ive had some case head separations but from my own doing. Either way it looks like a weak point that would stress and fail sooner than normal. If theres more I would contact Hornady customer service and get it swapped
Thats crazy. As long as they are unfired, Hornady will most likely take them back.I wish it was only one-
View attachment 7587844
650 pieces. The ones in the zip locks are the 100 packs that I purchased from MidSouth. One box of 50 Hornady branded. They all have it.
I pulled some TAP and ELDM 225 factory ammunition tonight. None had the crevice/crack?
Something wrong in their drawing/forming process. I hope they have stuff in stock to swap those out.Anyone seen this?
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
View attachment 7587784
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
View attachment 7587789
Thats crazy. As long as they are unfired, Hornady will most likely take them back.
Hornady brass is already low grade to begin with, add in a defect right at the place where case head separation occurs. Its like the perforation on a paper towel. Destined to fail.First firing - you can catch a nail in the marks.
View attachment 7587847
Second firing -
View attachment 7587848
I sent pictures to gfrear at Hornady 3-18-21. He said he had seen if before and thought it was a problem when he first saw it, but he checked with the engineers and they told him the crevices/cracks were normal?
Hornady brass is already low grade to begin with, add in a defect right at the place where case head separation occurs. Its like the perforation on a paper towel. Destined to fail.
Check your chamber, it puts nice fire cuts in it where it blew through.
I will try and get a video this evening when I get home from work. Thanks.You might need a slightly extended mag latch, or you can try opening the front of the feed lips a smidge. Can you post a short video of the feeding issue?
Just to clarify, this is the inside of the brass, and it goes all the way around? It can be super hard to tell whether it’s a burr or a crack. Cut one of the cases in half lengthwise with a hacksaw or something and see which it is and if there’s any thinning (if not, it’s probably safe to shoot, but bring pliers in case). Probably worth sending a note to Hornady with the brass lot number either way.
A sniper from the war in Afghanistan at my local gun shop says he fire forms his brass by basically creating blank rounds for his competition WinMag. He says he only puts about 6 or 7 grains of powder in each case, just enough to get the case hot enough to fire form. That way you dont end up wasting good powder or projectiles by loading a full charge into it. Dont know if he is BS'ing or not but it sounds plausible.So I have a question for whoever. I've got a limited supply if reloader 26 (4lbs) and H1000 (7lbs). I've also got about 7.5lbs of H4831sc. Should I save my rl26 and H1000 until after I've fire formed my brass or should I just start working up a load with each? I really don't want to waste any powder right now and could use the H4831sc to fire form. The H4831sc does well in my 300WM but not as good as the H1000. I was going to use it as my backup powder.
I'm undecided on which one to use.
This has been done for a long time, using pistol powder with cream of wheat or toilet paper as padding. I wouldn’t personally mess with it given the minuscule difference between virgin and fired brass—it’s not like you are making a wildcat here. Plus you still use primers which are the scarcest reloading component.A sniper from the war in Afghanistan at my local gun shop says he fire forms his brass by basically creating blank rounds for his competition WinMag. He says he only puts about 6 or 7 grains of powder in each case, just enough to get the case hot enough to fire form. That way you dont end up wasting good powder or projectiles by loading a full charge into it. Dont know if he is BS'ing or not but it sounds plausible.
I've looked at the cream-o-wheat method. I'm going to measure the factory loaded ammo after firing it to see how much growth I will have. I've got 100 212gr precision hunter rounds that I was going to use to help break in the barrel with and I'm probably going to use my H4831sc with some match kings to finish it off with and to fire form my other brass.A sniper from the war in Afghanistan at my local gun shop says he fire forms his brass by basically creating blank rounds for his competition WinMag. He says he only puts about 6 or 7 grains of powder in each case, just enough to get the case hot enough to fire form. That way you dont end up wasting good powder or projectiles by loading a full charge into it. Dont know if he is BS'ing or not but it sounds plausible.
I have the same but not as pronounced. I'll pull some more virgin and 1x cases to see what they may show.Anyone seen this?
Borescope in a new unfired Hornady 300 PRC case. Crevice/crack or whatever it is, is about 1/4 inch above case head. All of them in the bag are like this.
View attachment 7587784
I pulled the bullets from some 300 PRC Hornady factory ammunition and ran the borescope in and got the following. No crevice/crack-
View attachment 7587789
I always shoot my fire forming loads at steelThis has been done for a long time, using pistol powder with cream of wheat or toilet paper as padding. I wouldn’t personally mess with it given the minuscule difference between virgin and fired brass—it’s not like you are making a wildcat here. Plus you still use primers which are the scarcest reloading component.
Reading this thread has me shopping for actions.
@gnochi I made a feed lip tool out of some flat bar at work and adjusted my magazine when I got home. It seems to have fixed my problem. I've cycled multiple loads through the magazine and action to test it out and it's doing well. If I run into any other issues I will get a video of it. Thank you for the help.
Jeremy
View attachment 7588393
My new Bartlein is enroute, it is 26in, LH gain twist, 1:9 to 1:8, 400mod. Those specs are partly due to my desire to use it for hunting and run the 214 Hammer Hunter monos. I will report back when I have some rounds through it.Bartlein 1-9tw 28" Heavy Varmit in 400MOD steel.....I personally want my next to be 29.5" with left hand gain twist from 10-9.....but good luck getting in line for that.
Wow! I just bought the same die from them for $90 less, they have raised their prices.FYI: Redding Type-S Elite bushing die set: https://www.brunoshooters.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60776
My presious.
Look closer at this blue box.
I've got some on pre order from eurooptic.com and creedmoor sports.Indeed, where?
From Finland to Poland.Where'd those ship from ?
That is exciting newsMy presious.
Look closer at this blue box.