3D Printing and Range Finders

[BreachBangClearRyan]

I wanted a slimmer cover for the laser gubbins in the front of the Busnell Elite 1 Mile Conx laser range finder. So I plunked it down on a piece of paper roughly traced the contour and took a picture with my phone.

I measured one dimension on the picture and set the scale of it in Fusion 360 and began drawing out the various lines on one side. I then mirrored it on the center line because I'm lazy and it is symmetrical. After this I made an outer line that would serve as the walls of the lid. Then I made a body and extruded it.

My first version I 3D printed was bang on at the top but the bottom needed .010" in length and the curves to be a tad tighter. I made version two with the small changes and it came out perfect. So I ordered some TPU to make a rubber version for it to replace the orange PLA I used.

 

[BreachBangClearRyan]

An update on this project. I got my TPU rubber material the other day and finally made the rubber cover. I kind of want to see if I can make scope caps next with flip up fronts.

 

[Shawn1492]

very cool

 

[BreachBangClearRyan]

I can't print with tpu for crap. It always comes out messed up. I need more practice.

Nice job this is a cool project.

I made an optics cage for my Leupold mkIV from petg, it's worked very well

Do you have a direct drive extruder or bowden tube setup. TPU works best in direct drive.

 

[Cheyenne Bodie]

This might be the second or third 3D printed thing I've seen which is not gay or stupid. Not bad.

 

[BreachBangClearRyan]

Bowden, just a cheap ender 3

That's the problem. They make direct drive upgrades for the ender that would make your life easier. Otherwise I think you have to print TPU super slow.

This might be the second or third 3D printed thing I've seen which is not gay or stupid. Not bad.

I got a 3D printer because I can rapidly prototype things. I made an accessory for my MDT chassis last night that I will eventually post up on here.

 

[jliddle]

I dig this. Once you get your design nailed down, you can sent the file to Protolabs or another printing service to get the parts printed in a flexible material using an SLS or SLA machine. This would give you much better appearance and the material properties would be far more isotropic than what you get from an FDM machine like an Ender3.

 

[LawnMM]

Come up with a a set of covers and caps for Leicas and you'll be a millionaire

 

[BreachBangClearRyan]

Come up with a a set of covers and caps for Leicas and you'll be a millionaire

If I had one I could likely knock it up fairly easily.

 

[Terry Cross]

An update on this project. I got my TPU rubber material the other day and finally made the rubber cover. I kind of want to see if I can make scope caps next with flip up fronts.

Suggestion: Edit your model to include a stand off with hole to that you can run a section of para chord through with a knot.
Do the same thing with an improved eyepiece cover and tie to the other end. Easier to stow and keep track of if you don't want to just keep them clipped to the LRF.

Similar thing I did for a couple of spotter eyepieces. Depending on your material, you may want to beef up the root of the extension.

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[BreachBangClearRyan]

Suggestion: Edit your model to include a stand off with hole to that you can run a section of para chord through with a knot.
Do the same thing with an improved eyepiece cover and tie to the other end. Easier to stow and keep track of if you don't want to just keep them clipped to the LRF.

Similar thing I did for a couple of spotter eyepieces. Depending on your material, you may want to beef up the root of the extension.

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View attachment 7399170


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I was going to do that in a future version. I was contemplating making one that the front pops out and dangles from a cord to have less material hanging. The joys of being able to make small changes like that on the fly.