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139 scenar would fit the bill
Why are they not as popular?
Very consistent BC and a well made bullet with top notch QC. But the BC is significantly lower than the best Berger bullets.
How much does that BC really matter? Are there any discussions on it? Two similar fps bullets but one with better BCs.
That makes a ton of sense. I'm going to check that out. I want one for hunting and prs. Eventually I'll hopefully get a match gun in 6mm and it will be just hunting.IMHO it does not matter that much below 400 yards. You can run the calcs in a Ballistic calculator like Applied Ballistics or Strelok, and compare wind drift (it increases quadratically with distance, so x^2). At 1000 plus BC matters a great deal as wind is often the dominant reason for missing.
But: A very inconsistent high BC bullet could very easily lose out to a consistent moderate BC bullet. A bad vertical spread can make you lose a lot of points too. That explains why the ELD-Ms are not really seen in F class where group size (x count) matters greatly, while Berger Hybrids were popular. For hitting large steel targets in PRS, the Hornady ELDMs have adequate performance, and they are cheaper.
What do you want to do with the ammo?
Greetings,
Need to find a good load for my 6.5 CM. The data is;
26" Krieger Barrel
Hornady Brass
Berger 140 Hybrid
H4350 Powder
Any suggestions? I understand the COAL is 2.800, and I will probably start at 40 and work up at .3 increments.
Most people converge on 41.3 to 41.6 gn. Unless your chamber is exceptionally tight or sloppy.
Nothing wrong with volume/weight sorted Hornady brass in a factory rifle.
Not trying to offend anybody, but: That Krieger barrel is quite special, and not cheap either. IMHO your groups would benefit from premium brass: Lapua, Peterson, Alpha. In my experience you can expect a 30% reduction in group size, for a fairly limited additional expense. If you go for SRP brass, it will last 20-30 reloads if you stay with a reasonable load, Hornady gave me 4-6 reloads. That additional brass life pays for the good brass many times over.
Bullet choice: Well, I always got very good results with the Berger 140 Hybrid at 400-600 yards. Good consistent bullet, good BC, and i don’t have to weight sort them. And base to ogive is always good too. But i think the new factory pointed 144 gn Berger Hybrids are actually a little better. Same price, better BC, very similar speed.
Something to consider. Switching brass and bullet choice too often just wears out a good barrel with load development rounds. I know that for sure, because i use to try wayyyy too many options. Better to start with premium components and stick with it.
Thank you for your response.
Does the small pocket brass (Peterson for example) take small rifle primers? Or can you use large rifle primers with it? I have over 15k of Federal 210M... I don't think I'll be switching for a very long time if that is the case.
Hybrid 100V is in stock and cheaper than everything else where I go. Anybody have recent numbers on that? 140ELD's. 8T. 27" bart. The primers I have are winchester large magnum. That gonna hurt anything?
Pretty sure the new Berger LRP brass is standard flash hole size. Will check.
I tested one box of the 156 gn EOL hunting round, which is loaded in LRP brass, and that heavy bullet worked superbly well on large feral hogs.... And they are tough critters, also shot small groups on steel.
I use Hybrid in my RPR's in 6.5 Creedmoor with 140g ELD's. It works good and maintains tight groups out to 1000 yards, usually less than .5 MOA unless it's very windy. I also load with Superformance in 140g and 147g because it gives faster FPS all across the board while still maintaining accuracy. My reasoning is less bullet drop, thus less dial ups at longer ranges. But use what's available to you. Hybrid is a good power for the Creedmoor.Hybrid 100V is in stock and cheaper than everything else where I go. Anybody have recent numbers on that? 140ELD's. 8T. 27" bart. The primers I have are winchester large magnum. That gonna hurt anything?
SRP brass requires small rifle primers, by definition.
You have many quality options in Large Rifle Primer brass, like Nosler, Prime, brass derived from Berger hunting ammo like the 156 EOL round. Starline also gets good reviews, and they make both SRP and LRP variants, but i do not have enough experience with it yet. They had good weight and neck thickness measurements (checked a new batch of 100 when it arrived recently). Have only done fire forming so far.
When using premium LRP brass, you can expect the primer pockets to open up after 8-12 reloads, depending on how hot you load them. Still: Premium LRP brass is noticeably better than Hornady Match brass, which is quite soft and has fairly large variations in neck thickness (as measured at 6 positions around the circumference, measured with a good ball micrometer, not calipers which are not accurate enough). And neck turning does not really “fix” them.
There is such a massive primer (and components) shortage right now that you can probably make a very nice profit on your LRP stash... but sadly SRP primers are just as hard to find now. Some folks might do a 1:1 swap if you advertise. Look for people in your city. Shipping primers is problematic (hazmat rules).
Perhaps best to stay with LRP brass for this barrel. Maybe switch to SRP when you rebarrel... and when we are not in an election year.
Do people need to start their loads over with different brass brands?
I cant get that much in the case. Where does the base of the bullet sit in your case? How far can I stretch the bullet out of the neck?
For those that use Lapua brass, what brushing size does it take?
I run a .289 bushing with Lapua and pass it through a mandrel. Gives me 2 thou neck tension loaded at .291
Is a mandrel mandatory or just another method of reloading?
Not necessary, but it has improved my concentricity/runout, as well as lowered my ES numbers. I can feel the difference when seating the bullet as well (Every one seats with the same amount of force)
Necessary? No. Worth the extra step? Absolutely!
Which one do you use?
I would guess you full length size after removing the expander ball and rod? Then change dies to run the mandrel? Seems like a better option to using a bushing die due to not having to neck turn each case. Am I thinking about this one right?I use this die
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with this mandrel ( or turning arbor as called). (NT26)
Arbors and Mandrels
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You want the neck turning arbor, as this will give you 2 thou neck tension. Get the expander if you only want 1 thou tension.
I will definitely do that. I did adjust it after initially finding the issue. I believe its about centered in the die body now where it was down towards the bottom. It is now set about 0.250" lower from where the neck gets sized down at the top of my die.I am a newbie to reloading, but work with some hunters that got me on track from the get go. I had a similar issue myself at first, but discovered the timing of the ball sizer entering the case relative to the outside neck sizer doing its thing made a huge difference in consistent seating tension. I adjusted the ball height so it was about halfway into the case before the outside die contacted the case. I now get .0015" interference every time. May help if you check the timing of yours.
I would guess you full length size after removing the expander ball and rod? Then change dies to run the mandrel? Seems like a better option to using a bushing die due to not having to neck turn each case. Am I thinking about this one right?
Thank you.I’m using Redding Type S died on all calibers I load for. I full length resize, decapping rod and expander removed. I use a bushing to set the out, mandrel to iron out the inside.
Anybody have experience with eld factory seconds? Got a bunch and the bullet geometry varies significantly. Having a helluva time getting them seated w my Forster seating die as I guess it seats at a different point than what my comparator measures to.
I use this die
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with this mandrel ( or turning arbor as called). (NT26)
Arbors and Mandrels
21st Century Shooting, Reloading products, Reload, reloading ammo, 21st century, twenty first century shooting, shooting, gun arbors, mandrels, reloading, tools for reloading, front rest, f class, bench rest, short handle, arbor press, powder measure, bullet, bullet comparators, die base, shell...www.xxicsi.com
You want the neck turning arbor, as this will give you 2 thou neck tension. Get the expander if you only want 1 thou tension.